Rob Schaffer
Nov 06, 2002, 01:00 AM
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<td width="50%" align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericunder.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericunder_t1.jpg" border="2"></a></td>
<td width="50%" align="left"><strong>Specifications</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Length:</strong> 30 in.</li>
<li><strong>Finished Weight:</strong> 8.5 oz Complete!</li>
<li><strong>Wingspan:</strong> 48-1/2"</li>
<li><strong>Wing Area:</strong> 228 sq. in.</li>
<li><strong>Wing Loading:</strong> 5.4 oz / sq. ft.</li>
<li><strong>Assembly Time:</strong> Approx. 2-3 Evenings</li>
<li><strong>Radio:</strong> Hitec Focus III FM</li>
<li><strong>Servos:</strong> (2) Hitec HS-55</li>
<li><strong>Battery:</strong> 270mAh RX NiCad</li>
<li><strong>Available from:</strong><a href="http://www.hobby-lobby.com">Hobby Lobby International, Inc.</a>
</ul>
</td>
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<blockquote>When I opened the "Eric" kit box, I noticed that everything was carefully bubble-wrapped and secured for transport. Upon inspection, I was amazed at the quality of workmanship of the three wing pieces, tail assemblies, the very lightweight fiberglass pod, and carbon tail boom. Also included in the kit are all the control horns, pushrod wire and sleeves, servo mounting rails, and nylon wing bolts. I found the instruction pages, and was actually caught a little off guard at first glance. The instructions were not as "forward" as I had been used to in building kit models, but the graphics helped out very much. Originally, this kit is manufactured by Teltech in the Czech Republic, so the English translation isn't the best. </blockquote>
<p><big>Assembly</p></big>
<blockquote>Once I took a few moments to sit down with the parts in front of me and reread the instructions, I knew that this was going to assemble quite well and with ease. I went about the assembly, as I have for any of the kit planes that I have built in the past. I began with the tail surfaces first, then the wing, and finally the body with radio installation. Below are brief descriptions of each of these sections and some tips I found useful along with clarifications to the directions. This model was very well prepared, however, I don't believe this would be good for a beginner builder without the help of an experienced modeler due to the precise nature of the design, and the small details not listed in the instructions (but described below).</blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Tail Assembly</p></strong>
The surfaces are already very nicely covered using Oracover Light, and some of this material has to be removed for the assembly. Carefully marking the center of the stabilizer with a triangle, I made scores in the covering where the rudder fin would have to be glued in place. I also removed the covering from the bottom of the rudder fin where it would be in contact with the horizontal surface. Prior to joining these two pieces though, it is probably a good idea to install the control horns on each of the surfaces. I find it easier to mount them first and clip off the excess screw, rather than when everything is in place. Once these were mounted, I went ahead and fitted the two together, making sure to keep the rudder fin perpendicular to stabilizer in both directions. I noticed that the elevator control horn backing would interfere with rudder movement when the elevator was up, so I had to trim the bottom of the rudder accordingly to permit clearance.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/dubro.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/dubro_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote><p><strong>Wing Assembly</p></strong>
There are no directions associated with the wing assembly in the packet of information, but it seems straightforward, as the three sections together just have to be epoxied together, right? Yea, that is the basics of completing the wing, but there are some key points that you have to check along the way.
Make sure you have a large flat building surface for this step, along with some wax paper to place under the joints that you are about to epoxy together. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/wingtips.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/wingtips_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>I secured the main center section to the table with some small weights and prepared to attach the tips. It is important at this time to make sure that the slope of each tip is the same, rising to the same height off the work surface as shown below at the "X" locations. "Dry" fit the sections together on each side to see what measurement you should use to make each tip the same. My sections were only off by a little less than a 1/16", so I used 2-3/8". Make sure that your wing is also placed so the airfoil matches along the entire chord, a small deviation here will impact the flight performance.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/wingplace.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/wingplace_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote><p><strong>Finish Assembly</p></strong>
The fiberglass pod and carbon tail boom come assembled, with only small finish work to do. There is one mounting block for the front wing bolt already installed and tapped, however, the rear bolt hole is not located or installed. The instructions tell you that you must install this and the tap size for the wing bolt, but it doesn't supply any information on how to complete this process. Based on prior building experience, it is a known fact that the wing must be on "straight". To accomplish this, I supported the pod assembly on each side with a book, while installing the wing using the one bolt already located. From there, I measured from the end of the carbon tail boom to the joint on each side of the wing that was epoxied previously. Once the measurements were the same, I took a marker and located the spot on the pod where the hole and mounting block needed to be installed. After removing the wing, this step was easily completed. </blockquote>
<blockquote>A similar method applies to the tail boom and rear fin assembly. Remember to remove some of the covering on the bottom of the stabilizer prior to gluing. This end requires a little more "jigging" to be done correctly. Once again, I marked a line to measure from on the section of the tail boom.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Since the boom is round, and your stabilizer is flat, this poses a problem. You have to ensure that the stabilizer is parallel to the wing once it is in place. It should not be tilted to one side or the other on the boom. Installing the wing as a reference, and securing the assembly, I felt ready to get out the epoxy. I carefully applied epoxy to the bottom of the stabilizer and then rested it on the tail boom. I used shims at the ends of the stabilizer helped to make sure that it was parallel to the wing, and the rudder was vertical. Once I had it shimmed, I quickly measured from each tip to the point I marked on the boom and adjusted as necessary until each side was the same. </blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Radio Installation </p></strong>
Wow, things are really coming along fast now! The only remaining building step is the installation of the radio and the routing of the pushrods. For this process, make sure that you have the correct size screwdriver for the very small screws on the HS-55 Servos, as well as a few sets of various size pliers for bending the control wires. You will also require a drill and drill bit for mounting the servos, and another size bit and file for making a slot in the tail boom. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/rudderexit.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/rudderexit_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>First, the pushrods will have to be cut and installed. The elevator pushrod just runs through the carbon tail boom the entire length, while the rudder pushrod exits through a small, 1-1/4" slot placed about an inch ahead of the fins. This slot has to be drilled at each end, and at approximately 45 degrees to the same side as your rudder control horn. The width of the slot should be enough to pass the pushrod sleeve through without any pinching. This can easily be done by taking a small file and slowly working away the carbon fiber between the holes. Alternatively, you can carefully score between the two holes with an X-Acto knife, remove the piece, and then finish with the file. A diagram, with the location of the slot, is included in the instructions for this process. Place the pushrod tubes as directed and epoxy them in place at the pod end of the boom, where the rudder tube exits the boom. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/servos.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/servos_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>For the servo, battery, and receiver location, the builder is primarily free to locate them wherever he/she desires. I chose to install my servos just slightly ahead of the measured CG and behind the front wing bolt block, similar to a sketch shown in the directions. I epoxied the servo rails as low as possible, but still high enough to keep the bottom of the servo off the pod. Once dry, installation of the servos was typical of any other plane.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/dubro.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/dubro_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>The pushrods are now fed through the tubing already in place, and some small amounts of bending will have to be done in order to make good connections to the servo control arms. Some of this can be done by marking the pushrod, removing it from the pod, bending, and then re-inserting the pushrod from the front of the pod. Once installed, I used some accessories from DuBro to provide some "insurance" at the bends in the wire at the rudder and elevator control horns. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/radiocompart.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/radiocompart_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>After connecting the servos, switch, and battery together, I protected the battery and receiver with some 1/4" foam rubber. I ran the antenna beneath the servos and through the tail boom, stopping it short of the end so that it would not interfere with the movement of the elevator control horn. The supplied battery fits nicely in the very front of the pod, followed by the receiver just aft. I took a small amount of epoxy and mounted the on/off switch to the side of the pod for accessibility when removing the canopy.</blockquote>
<blockquote>The radio installation was complete, and all that remained was to balance and trim the model. According to the instructions, the Eric's CG is located on the main spar of the wing, and my model did require some nose ballast to make this location work. Removing the battery from the nose, the ballast was added at the very tip of the nose, which was followed by the re-installation of the gear in the order listed previously. The final weight came out at 8.5 ounces, ready to fly.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/finished.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/finished_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<p><big>Flight Performance </p></big>
<blockquote><p><strong>Flight Day One: Sunny with very light wind, 46F </p></strong>
Even though it was cool out, the weather was beautiful and I had had the itch to fly. I walked to a nearby Astroturf field for the first flights of the new plane. The surface of the turf is just like indoor carpet, very smooth and soft. Walking briskly into the wind, I noticed that it doesn't take much for this plane to want to rise out of your hands and ride the winds. From a standstill, I was able to provide a stiff throw directly ahead of me and level, and the plane continued straight, but with some down pitch. I trimmed the elevator accordingly and threw again at the same level and force. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericflight.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericflight_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>The plane responded very well and flew nearly twice as far. Feeling comfortable with the setting so far, I held the plane with my finger tips on the throwing peg and gave it a little more thrust this time. Wow, releasing at level with more thrust caused the plane to rise quickly and before I knew it, it was high enough to complete its first right turn. I went back and removed the elevator trim, as it rocketed the plane upwards on harder launches. </blockquote>
<blockquote>I made three consecutive good launches, from my first timer prospective, and completed multiple turn flights with about a 15-20 foot launch height at most.
I was feeling ready to give the plane a good hard launch, but I noticed that my elevator had separated from the carbon tail boom. Surprisingly, my timing buddy and I wondered how this happened since all my landings were level and smooth. The joint was clean, and I am looking for a remedy to join the elevator and tail boom better.</blockquote>
<blockquote>The first day's flights were great! Even though there was the small mishap at the end, the plane responded very well to small inputs and seems to soar right out of my hand! I am looking forward to getting back into the air logging many flights with this great product. As my first try at R/C hand launching, I felt quite comfortable with the ease of transition from large gliders and power planes, to the way the ERIC responds so gently. I rate the first day four out of five stars!!!</blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Repairs</p></strong>
The repair consisted of carefully removing as much of the epoxy as possible and roughing up the bottom of the stabilizer with sandpaper. I scuffed up the carbon boom just as I had before with rough sand paper, and then proceeded to cut small notches in the top surface. I protruded these notches at the front and rear of the stabilizer approximately 1/16" into the tail boom. Taking some 1/16" wide balsa, I created tabs on the bottom of the stabilizer at the matching locations to the notches in the boom, and used CA glue to join these parts together. Once set, I then re-epoxied the stabilizer onto the tail boom, while making sure to get a good joint at the tabs and along the bonding length by making a smooth fillet as described below.</blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Advice</p></strong>
This is some advice from Don Stackhouse at DJ Aerotech: "Try mixing up a mixture of slow epoxy, milled fibers, and micro-balloons to about the consistency of peanut butter, then using that to make a smooth fillet between the boom and the stabilizer surface on both sides. For even more strength, apply a "strap" of fiberglass tape and epoxy over the top of the tail boom, down the sides of the fillets and out over the surface of the stabilizer for about 1/2" to each side of the tail boom. For an HLG, a tape cut from 1 oz. cloth should be adequate in most cases. To save weight, wet out the tape with epoxy on another surface, and then transfer it to the model. This will cut down on the amount of epoxy required." </blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Flight Day Two: Cloudy, Completely still air, 49F</p></strong>
I took advantage of the calm before the storm today, as we were supposed to get rain that night and the next day. I had about 45 minutes to take the plane out and re-trim after the repair. Since I was familiar with the plane already, this only took a few small tosses. The air was so calm that I decided to do my best at giving this bird a good heave. After a few arm motions with the plane, while trying to keep a comfortable form, I took two or three steps and gave her all I got. The plane rose up well and I remembered the stalls of yesterday, so I put in a little down elevator to nose her over. I imagine that it went about 35-40 feet up, but that is only from my best guess, and maybe the nose-over was a little early. I was able to keep it in a good glide for quite some time, longer than any flight previously, and probably near the 30-second range. I didn't feel comfortable going for the hand catch yet, so I set the plane down about ten feet away from me. Everything flew really well and I was very happy with this plane and radio combination.</blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Flight Day Three: Clear, Light to Still air, 65F</p></strong>
The weather finally cooperated with my schedule, and I was able to get in some really good flights with the ERIC HLG. The temperature was in the mid 60's all day. It was sunny, with a very light wind that evening after I got home from work. I quickly grabbed the plane and headed out to the nearby fields. After the traditional range check, I tossed the glider level and straight just to recheck the trim; it went ahead straight as an arrow. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericlaunch.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericlaunch_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>This was the first day that I was able just to focus on practicing my launch in calm conditions. I tried slightly changing the angle each time, and I noticed that I got the best launches when I followed through completely and released the plane near 30 degrees from horizontal. I am new to this HLG sport, so my low-level thermal senses aren't that acute, but I am sure that with time I will improve. My flight times are improving, mainly due to the better launches. They are approaching the 30-40 second marks on average, when there is a light wind that I can work with. Dead air times are only in the teens, as I need to work on that aspect of things. </blockquote>
<p><big>Additional Thoughts and Ideas </p></big>
<blockquote>Being new to hand-launched gliders, I spent a fair amount of time researching it first and talking to other pilots as well. I found that the most important aspect was the launch. Getting good acceleration and having a good technique was crucial to success, and there are so many ways this could have been done. Some pilots use finger holes, some use throwing pegs, and some use sandpaper on the sides of the plane. However, in the end, it is all personal preference. </blockquote>
<blockquote>For myself, I chose to install a finger peg (or throwing peg), in the pod near the trailing edge of the wing. Many suggestions to where this should be installed are out there, but all seem to fall in the range of 2/3 back from the Leading edge and the trailing edge. Based on personal preference, I chose the 2/3 from the L.E. distance to use for my first HLG. To do this, you simple have to carefully making two holes in the pod and put in a peg. The peg is then epoxied in place, and the pod reinforced around it with some small fibers in the epoxy mix. The peg is located just above the tail boom, with about 1/2" protruding from each side of the pod. This allows me to keep a good grasp on the pod while in the beginning of the throwing motion. For a good throwing technique, as well as an abundance of information, visit the "Ask J&D" section of DJ Aerotech.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/throwpeg.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/throwpeg_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/handhold.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/handhold_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Flexible pushrods loose efficiency unless secured at multiple points along their path. In this model, the elevator pushrod is only braced at the pod end of the tail boom. I took a small piece of foam rubber and pushed it into the rear of the tail boom until it was past the end of the pushrod sleeve. This helped to add support along the path of the pushrod. </blockquote>
<p><big>Conclusion</p></big>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericsun.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericsun_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>I guess in the end, I would like to say that the ERIC is a good plane for someone getting into hand launched gliding. I was able to build it easily and it flies really well. This HLG stuff is going to get addicting! </blockquote>
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" width="80%" bgcolor="#D5EAFF">
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<td width="50%" align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericunder.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericunder_t1.jpg" border="2"></a></td>
<td width="50%" align="left"><strong>Specifications</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Length:</strong> 30 in.</li>
<li><strong>Finished Weight:</strong> 8.5 oz Complete!</li>
<li><strong>Wingspan:</strong> 48-1/2"</li>
<li><strong>Wing Area:</strong> 228 sq. in.</li>
<li><strong>Wing Loading:</strong> 5.4 oz / sq. ft.</li>
<li><strong>Assembly Time:</strong> Approx. 2-3 Evenings</li>
<li><strong>Radio:</strong> Hitec Focus III FM</li>
<li><strong>Servos:</strong> (2) Hitec HS-55</li>
<li><strong>Battery:</strong> 270mAh RX NiCad</li>
<li><strong>Available from:</strong><a href="http://www.hobby-lobby.com">Hobby Lobby International, Inc.</a>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</div>
<blockquote>When I opened the "Eric" kit box, I noticed that everything was carefully bubble-wrapped and secured for transport. Upon inspection, I was amazed at the quality of workmanship of the three wing pieces, tail assemblies, the very lightweight fiberglass pod, and carbon tail boom. Also included in the kit are all the control horns, pushrod wire and sleeves, servo mounting rails, and nylon wing bolts. I found the instruction pages, and was actually caught a little off guard at first glance. The instructions were not as "forward" as I had been used to in building kit models, but the graphics helped out very much. Originally, this kit is manufactured by Teltech in the Czech Republic, so the English translation isn't the best. </blockquote>
<p><big>Assembly</p></big>
<blockquote>Once I took a few moments to sit down with the parts in front of me and reread the instructions, I knew that this was going to assemble quite well and with ease. I went about the assembly, as I have for any of the kit planes that I have built in the past. I began with the tail surfaces first, then the wing, and finally the body with radio installation. Below are brief descriptions of each of these sections and some tips I found useful along with clarifications to the directions. This model was very well prepared, however, I don't believe this would be good for a beginner builder without the help of an experienced modeler due to the precise nature of the design, and the small details not listed in the instructions (but described below).</blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Tail Assembly</p></strong>
The surfaces are already very nicely covered using Oracover Light, and some of this material has to be removed for the assembly. Carefully marking the center of the stabilizer with a triangle, I made scores in the covering where the rudder fin would have to be glued in place. I also removed the covering from the bottom of the rudder fin where it would be in contact with the horizontal surface. Prior to joining these two pieces though, it is probably a good idea to install the control horns on each of the surfaces. I find it easier to mount them first and clip off the excess screw, rather than when everything is in place. Once these were mounted, I went ahead and fitted the two together, making sure to keep the rudder fin perpendicular to stabilizer in both directions. I noticed that the elevator control horn backing would interfere with rudder movement when the elevator was up, so I had to trim the bottom of the rudder accordingly to permit clearance.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/dubro.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/dubro_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote><p><strong>Wing Assembly</p></strong>
There are no directions associated with the wing assembly in the packet of information, but it seems straightforward, as the three sections together just have to be epoxied together, right? Yea, that is the basics of completing the wing, but there are some key points that you have to check along the way.
Make sure you have a large flat building surface for this step, along with some wax paper to place under the joints that you are about to epoxy together. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/wingtips.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/wingtips_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>I secured the main center section to the table with some small weights and prepared to attach the tips. It is important at this time to make sure that the slope of each tip is the same, rising to the same height off the work surface as shown below at the "X" locations. "Dry" fit the sections together on each side to see what measurement you should use to make each tip the same. My sections were only off by a little less than a 1/16", so I used 2-3/8". Make sure that your wing is also placed so the airfoil matches along the entire chord, a small deviation here will impact the flight performance.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/wingplace.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/wingplace_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote><p><strong>Finish Assembly</p></strong>
The fiberglass pod and carbon tail boom come assembled, with only small finish work to do. There is one mounting block for the front wing bolt already installed and tapped, however, the rear bolt hole is not located or installed. The instructions tell you that you must install this and the tap size for the wing bolt, but it doesn't supply any information on how to complete this process. Based on prior building experience, it is a known fact that the wing must be on "straight". To accomplish this, I supported the pod assembly on each side with a book, while installing the wing using the one bolt already located. From there, I measured from the end of the carbon tail boom to the joint on each side of the wing that was epoxied previously. Once the measurements were the same, I took a marker and located the spot on the pod where the hole and mounting block needed to be installed. After removing the wing, this step was easily completed. </blockquote>
<blockquote>A similar method applies to the tail boom and rear fin assembly. Remember to remove some of the covering on the bottom of the stabilizer prior to gluing. This end requires a little more "jigging" to be done correctly. Once again, I marked a line to measure from on the section of the tail boom.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Since the boom is round, and your stabilizer is flat, this poses a problem. You have to ensure that the stabilizer is parallel to the wing once it is in place. It should not be tilted to one side or the other on the boom. Installing the wing as a reference, and securing the assembly, I felt ready to get out the epoxy. I carefully applied epoxy to the bottom of the stabilizer and then rested it on the tail boom. I used shims at the ends of the stabilizer helped to make sure that it was parallel to the wing, and the rudder was vertical. Once I had it shimmed, I quickly measured from each tip to the point I marked on the boom and adjusted as necessary until each side was the same. </blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Radio Installation </p></strong>
Wow, things are really coming along fast now! The only remaining building step is the installation of the radio and the routing of the pushrods. For this process, make sure that you have the correct size screwdriver for the very small screws on the HS-55 Servos, as well as a few sets of various size pliers for bending the control wires. You will also require a drill and drill bit for mounting the servos, and another size bit and file for making a slot in the tail boom. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/rudderexit.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/rudderexit_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>First, the pushrods will have to be cut and installed. The elevator pushrod just runs through the carbon tail boom the entire length, while the rudder pushrod exits through a small, 1-1/4" slot placed about an inch ahead of the fins. This slot has to be drilled at each end, and at approximately 45 degrees to the same side as your rudder control horn. The width of the slot should be enough to pass the pushrod sleeve through without any pinching. This can easily be done by taking a small file and slowly working away the carbon fiber between the holes. Alternatively, you can carefully score between the two holes with an X-Acto knife, remove the piece, and then finish with the file. A diagram, with the location of the slot, is included in the instructions for this process. Place the pushrod tubes as directed and epoxy them in place at the pod end of the boom, where the rudder tube exits the boom. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/servos.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/servos_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>For the servo, battery, and receiver location, the builder is primarily free to locate them wherever he/she desires. I chose to install my servos just slightly ahead of the measured CG and behind the front wing bolt block, similar to a sketch shown in the directions. I epoxied the servo rails as low as possible, but still high enough to keep the bottom of the servo off the pod. Once dry, installation of the servos was typical of any other plane.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/dubro.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/dubro_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>The pushrods are now fed through the tubing already in place, and some small amounts of bending will have to be done in order to make good connections to the servo control arms. Some of this can be done by marking the pushrod, removing it from the pod, bending, and then re-inserting the pushrod from the front of the pod. Once installed, I used some accessories from DuBro to provide some "insurance" at the bends in the wire at the rudder and elevator control horns. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/radiocompart.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/radiocompart_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>After connecting the servos, switch, and battery together, I protected the battery and receiver with some 1/4" foam rubber. I ran the antenna beneath the servos and through the tail boom, stopping it short of the end so that it would not interfere with the movement of the elevator control horn. The supplied battery fits nicely in the very front of the pod, followed by the receiver just aft. I took a small amount of epoxy and mounted the on/off switch to the side of the pod for accessibility when removing the canopy.</blockquote>
<blockquote>The radio installation was complete, and all that remained was to balance and trim the model. According to the instructions, the Eric's CG is located on the main spar of the wing, and my model did require some nose ballast to make this location work. Removing the battery from the nose, the ballast was added at the very tip of the nose, which was followed by the re-installation of the gear in the order listed previously. The final weight came out at 8.5 ounces, ready to fly.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/finished.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/finished_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<p><big>Flight Performance </p></big>
<blockquote><p><strong>Flight Day One: Sunny with very light wind, 46F </p></strong>
Even though it was cool out, the weather was beautiful and I had had the itch to fly. I walked to a nearby Astroturf field for the first flights of the new plane. The surface of the turf is just like indoor carpet, very smooth and soft. Walking briskly into the wind, I noticed that it doesn't take much for this plane to want to rise out of your hands and ride the winds. From a standstill, I was able to provide a stiff throw directly ahead of me and level, and the plane continued straight, but with some down pitch. I trimmed the elevator accordingly and threw again at the same level and force. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericflight.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericflight_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>The plane responded very well and flew nearly twice as far. Feeling comfortable with the setting so far, I held the plane with my finger tips on the throwing peg and gave it a little more thrust this time. Wow, releasing at level with more thrust caused the plane to rise quickly and before I knew it, it was high enough to complete its first right turn. I went back and removed the elevator trim, as it rocketed the plane upwards on harder launches. </blockquote>
<blockquote>I made three consecutive good launches, from my first timer prospective, and completed multiple turn flights with about a 15-20 foot launch height at most.
I was feeling ready to give the plane a good hard launch, but I noticed that my elevator had separated from the carbon tail boom. Surprisingly, my timing buddy and I wondered how this happened since all my landings were level and smooth. The joint was clean, and I am looking for a remedy to join the elevator and tail boom better.</blockquote>
<blockquote>The first day's flights were great! Even though there was the small mishap at the end, the plane responded very well to small inputs and seems to soar right out of my hand! I am looking forward to getting back into the air logging many flights with this great product. As my first try at R/C hand launching, I felt quite comfortable with the ease of transition from large gliders and power planes, to the way the ERIC responds so gently. I rate the first day four out of five stars!!!</blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Repairs</p></strong>
The repair consisted of carefully removing as much of the epoxy as possible and roughing up the bottom of the stabilizer with sandpaper. I scuffed up the carbon boom just as I had before with rough sand paper, and then proceeded to cut small notches in the top surface. I protruded these notches at the front and rear of the stabilizer approximately 1/16" into the tail boom. Taking some 1/16" wide balsa, I created tabs on the bottom of the stabilizer at the matching locations to the notches in the boom, and used CA glue to join these parts together. Once set, I then re-epoxied the stabilizer onto the tail boom, while making sure to get a good joint at the tabs and along the bonding length by making a smooth fillet as described below.</blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Advice</p></strong>
This is some advice from Don Stackhouse at DJ Aerotech: "Try mixing up a mixture of slow epoxy, milled fibers, and micro-balloons to about the consistency of peanut butter, then using that to make a smooth fillet between the boom and the stabilizer surface on both sides. For even more strength, apply a "strap" of fiberglass tape and epoxy over the top of the tail boom, down the sides of the fillets and out over the surface of the stabilizer for about 1/2" to each side of the tail boom. For an HLG, a tape cut from 1 oz. cloth should be adequate in most cases. To save weight, wet out the tape with epoxy on another surface, and then transfer it to the model. This will cut down on the amount of epoxy required." </blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Flight Day Two: Cloudy, Completely still air, 49F</p></strong>
I took advantage of the calm before the storm today, as we were supposed to get rain that night and the next day. I had about 45 minutes to take the plane out and re-trim after the repair. Since I was familiar with the plane already, this only took a few small tosses. The air was so calm that I decided to do my best at giving this bird a good heave. After a few arm motions with the plane, while trying to keep a comfortable form, I took two or three steps and gave her all I got. The plane rose up well and I remembered the stalls of yesterday, so I put in a little down elevator to nose her over. I imagine that it went about 35-40 feet up, but that is only from my best guess, and maybe the nose-over was a little early. I was able to keep it in a good glide for quite some time, longer than any flight previously, and probably near the 30-second range. I didn't feel comfortable going for the hand catch yet, so I set the plane down about ten feet away from me. Everything flew really well and I was very happy with this plane and radio combination.</blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Flight Day Three: Clear, Light to Still air, 65F</p></strong>
The weather finally cooperated with my schedule, and I was able to get in some really good flights with the ERIC HLG. The temperature was in the mid 60's all day. It was sunny, with a very light wind that evening after I got home from work. I quickly grabbed the plane and headed out to the nearby fields. After the traditional range check, I tossed the glider level and straight just to recheck the trim; it went ahead straight as an arrow. </blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericlaunch.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericlaunch_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>This was the first day that I was able just to focus on practicing my launch in calm conditions. I tried slightly changing the angle each time, and I noticed that I got the best launches when I followed through completely and released the plane near 30 degrees from horizontal. I am new to this HLG sport, so my low-level thermal senses aren't that acute, but I am sure that with time I will improve. My flight times are improving, mainly due to the better launches. They are approaching the 30-40 second marks on average, when there is a light wind that I can work with. Dead air times are only in the teens, as I need to work on that aspect of things. </blockquote>
<p><big>Additional Thoughts and Ideas </p></big>
<blockquote>Being new to hand-launched gliders, I spent a fair amount of time researching it first and talking to other pilots as well. I found that the most important aspect was the launch. Getting good acceleration and having a good technique was crucial to success, and there are so many ways this could have been done. Some pilots use finger holes, some use throwing pegs, and some use sandpaper on the sides of the plane. However, in the end, it is all personal preference. </blockquote>
<blockquote>For myself, I chose to install a finger peg (or throwing peg), in the pod near the trailing edge of the wing. Many suggestions to where this should be installed are out there, but all seem to fall in the range of 2/3 back from the Leading edge and the trailing edge. Based on personal preference, I chose the 2/3 from the L.E. distance to use for my first HLG. To do this, you simple have to carefully making two holes in the pod and put in a peg. The peg is then epoxied in place, and the pod reinforced around it with some small fibers in the epoxy mix. The peg is located just above the tail boom, with about 1/2" protruding from each side of the pod. This allows me to keep a good grasp on the pod while in the beginning of the throwing motion. For a good throwing technique, as well as an abundance of information, visit the "Ask J&D" section of DJ Aerotech.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/throwpeg.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/throwpeg_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/handhold.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/handhold_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Flexible pushrods loose efficiency unless secured at multiple points along their path. In this model, the elevator pushrod is only braced at the pod end of the tail boom. I took a small piece of foam rubber and pushed it into the rear of the tail boom until it was past the end of the pushrod sleeve. This helped to add support along the path of the pushrod. </blockquote>
<p><big>Conclusion</p></big>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericsun.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/eric/ericsun_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>I guess in the end, I would like to say that the ERIC is a good plane for someone getting into hand launched gliding. I was able to build it easily and it flies really well. This HLG stuff is going to get addicting! </blockquote>