Building my first RC10T4, newbie questions

[sedawk]

Just a couple quick questions. First, I've read here that spraying
window cleaner on the body before placing decals will allow you to
place them easily and then just blot out the cleaner. I'm just
wondering if that technique would also work for the window masks. ??
Also...I ordered a Team Orion 15x2 Havok Motor
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCYR1&P=ML
What would you guys recommend for a pinion gear? The track I'll be
running on is pretty short, not much straight-away. I'm thinking a
21T, which would give me a 10.77:1 ratio. Is that a good starting
point for this motor?
Thanks guys!

[Dean]

On 6 Aug 2004 19:50:05 -0700, sedawk@hotmail.com (sedawk) wrote:

>Just a couple quick questions. First, I've read here that spraying
>window cleaner on the body before placing decals will allow you to
>place them easily and then just blot out the cleaner. I'm just
>wondering if that technique would also work for the window masks. ??
>Also...I ordered a Team Orion 15x2 Havok Motor
>http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCYR1&P=ML
>What would you guys recommend for a pinion gear? The track I'll be
>running on is pretty short, not much straight-away. I'm thinking a
>21T, which would give me a 10.77:1 ratio. Is that a good starting
>point for this motor?
>Thanks guys!

I think you want to be in the 11.5 range or higher, so I'd try a 18T to start
with. Always better to undergear than overgear. Especially on a tight track.
Honestly, with good batteries a mod is going to be very hard to handle for a
newbie, I would suggest stock class first, work on your driving skill then race
mod.
---
Proud owner of:
Associated RC10GT <the other basher>
Team Losi XX "CR" <the basher>
Team Losi XXX KE <the racer>
http://ripperd.com
email: dean (at) the above domain

[kenji]

In article <7c0594ba.0408061850.618cf2e3@posting.google.com>,
sedawk@hotmail.com (sedawk) wrote:

> Just a couple quick questions. First, I've read here that spraying
> window cleaner on the body before placing decals will allow you to
> place them easily and then just blot out the cleaner.

You can do that, but we never do. We just stick them on. The body is
gonna get really tore up anyway if you are new and will be racing.

> I'm just
> wondering if that technique would also work for the window masks. ??

Don't do that for the window masks. After you get the window masks in
position use your fingernail to flatten it all out...really good at the
outer edges. After you paint it the window masks will easily come off
and leave a clean clear surface.


> Also...I ordered a Team Orion 15x2 Havok Motor
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCYR1&P=ML
> What would you guys recommend for a pinion gear? The track I'll be
> running on is pretty short, not much straight-away.

Buy a 17, 18, and 19. Most likely if you have some good size jumps
you'll be in the 17-18 range.


I'm thinking a
> 21T, which would give me a 10.77:1 ratio. Is that a good starting
> point for this motor?
> Thanks guys!

Think about running a stock motor for a while. Learning to control the
buggy takes some time. The stock motor will be more than enough for you
to handle. If your new and will be racing, many time the "rookie" class
can only run a stock motor. check with the track.

[sedawk]

sedawk@hotmail.com (sedawk) wrote in message news:<7c0594ba.0408061850.618cf2e3@posting.google.com>...

Thanks for the replies, especially on the pinion! The track I'll be
running on is on my property, not racing in a club or anything yet.
Just with some friends for now. I'll pick up a stock motor as well.
Sounds like the mod will be too much at first.

Any other tips for building the T4? This is the team kit, not the
factory team. What about connectors? Should I yank the Tamiya
connectors off the batteries and ESC and replace them with Dean's
connectors? The motor and the ESC I'm getting come with 'bullet'
connectors...are these good, or should those be replaced as well?

Thanks again!

[Rick Russell]

In article <7c0594ba.0408070705.46d4275f@posting.google.com>,
sedawk <sedawk@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Just with some friends for now. I'll pick up a stock motor as well.
> Sounds like the mod will be too much at first.

In my opinion, a mild modified motor (17-19 turns) with conservative
timing (5-12 degrees) is a much better choice than a stock
motor. You'll get a little more power and more run time (due to much
higher efficiency) with less maintenance. And it will probably cost
about the same.

> factory team. What about connectors? Should I yank the Tamiya
> connectors off the batteries and ESC and replace them with Dean's
> connectors? The motor and the ESC I'm getting come with 'bullet'
> connectors...are these good, or should those be replaced as well?

The Tamiya connectors and bullet connectors are adequate for non-race
performance, but if you have the urge to upgrade, feel free. Many
people solder the motor directly to the ESC, since you'll rarely need
to disconnect them. If you anchor your ESC with something like 3M Dual
Lock, you can simply unsnap the ESC and remove it with the motor for
maintenance.

Rick R.

[kenji]

In article <7c0594ba.0408070705.46d4275f@posting.google.com>,
sedawk@hotmail.com (sedawk) wrote:


> Any other tips for building the T4? This is the team kit, not the
> factory team. What about connectors? Should I yank the Tamiya
> connectors off the batteries and ESC and replace them with Dean's
> connectors? The motor and the ESC I'm getting come with 'bullet'
> connectors...are these good, or should those be replaced as well?

Replace the tamiya with Deans on the ESC leads to the battery and put
Deans on you batteries and charger, hardwire the esc directly to the
motor. The bullet connectors come loose with lots of jumping.

[kenji]

In article <cf2sgs$9lv$1@joe.rice.edu>,
rickr@is.rice.edu (Rick Russell) wrote:

> You'll get a little more power and more run time (due to much
> higher efficiency) with less maintenance.

What?

You saying a 15 turn motor will have more runtime and less maintenance
than a stock motor? How so?

[Jonathan Hodgson]

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 11:16:39 -0500, kenji wrote:

> In article <cf2sgs$9lv$1@joe.rice.edu>,
> rickr@is.rice.edu (Rick Russell) wrote:
>
>> You'll get a little more power and more run time (due to much
>> higher efficiency) with less maintenance.
>
> What?
>
> You saying a 15 turn motor will have more runtime and less maintenance
> than a stock motor? How so?

I suspect the theory goes, that the stock motor will be running
excessive timing advance to maximise power. With saner amounts of
advance, the mod should run more efficiently.

Jonny

[Rick Russell]

In article <kenji-00A862.11163807082004@news.ftupet.com>,
kenji <kenji@ripco.com> wrote:
> You saying a 15 turn motor will have more runtime and less maintenance
> than a stock motor? How so?

Compare efficiency, the fraction of electrical energy that is
converted to mechanical energy. Peak efficiency for a stock motor is
poor, because of the advanced timing. Stock motors routinely peak
around 65% efficiency, 70% if you're lucky. A modified motor with less
advanced timing is much more efficient, perhaps 85%.

And the brushes last longer, because advanced timing causes electrical
arcs.

Rick R.

[kenji]

In article <cfg1is$arr$1@joe.rice.edu>,
rickr@is.rice.edu (Rick Russell) wrote:

> In article <kenji-00A862.11163807082004@news.ftupet.com>,
> kenji <kenji@ripco.com> wrote:
> > You saying a 15 turn motor will have more runtime and less maintenance
> > than a stock motor? How so?
>
> Compare efficiency, the fraction of electrical energy that is
> converted to mechanical energy. Peak efficiency for a stock motor is
> poor, because of the advanced timing. Stock motors routinely peak
> around 65% efficiency, 70% if you're lucky. A modified motor with less
> advanced timing is much more efficient, perhaps 85%.
>
> And the brushes last longer, because advanced timing causes electrical
> arcs.
>
> Rick R.

Hmmm, I beleive that all the mod motors I run we advance the timing to
make them go faster, not leaving it at 0 degrees. We also have to change
the brushes more often than stock.

I've spent more time cutting, replacing brushes and generally
maintaining a 14 turn than a stock motor.

[Rick Russell]

In article <kenji-2D0314.10441412082004@news.ftupet.com>,
kenji <kenji@ripco.com> wrote:
> Hmmm, I beleive that all the mod motors I run we advance the timing to
> make them go faster, not leaving it at 0 degrees. We also have to change
> the brushes more often than stock.

Right, but if you're more interested in low maintenance and long
runtime, you don't need to advance them very much.

The original poster was asking about motors for a backyard
basher. Stock motors are a poor choice for the backyard basher,
because of the aggressive, non-adjustable timing.

Of course you can tune a mod motor for racing. But if you tune it for
efficiency and durability, it's better motor for bashing than a stock
motor. I've run 17 and 19 turn motors tuned with minimal timing in my
non-racing kits for ages, and they keep going and going.

Rick R.