Century Hawk Bell 222 kit (0.30)

[Helicraz]

Anyone tried this kit?

http://www.heli-world.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CN1071&Category_Code=shk

Is it tough to build for a beginner at scale heli? My only experience is
Raptor 30 pod and boom.

[Beav]

"Helicraz" <NoSpam@Goaway.spam> wrote in message
news:L4HLc.36$gH5.137@news.oracle.com...
> Anyone tried this kit?
>
>
http://www.heli-world.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CN1071&Category_Code=shk
>
> Is it tough to build for a beginner at scale heli? My only experience is
> Raptor 30 pod and boom.

Depends entirely on the amount of detail you wish to incorporate. A
"stand-off" scale model requires little more effort than a pod and boom, but
a Class 1 scale machine requires a HUGE amount of work and skill.

Start small and work your way up as your skills develop and your experience
grows, but don't let the thought that building a scale model is "hard(er)"
put you off giving it a go.


--
Beav


Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)

Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk

[Leif Thomson]

I've done the Funkey Bell 222 scale with the Kyosho Nexus 30 mechanics.
It's a bit of engineering to get everything to fit right, especially if you
don't want servos showing in the cockpit area. If you have some skill
building and finishing anything, it should not be too bad. Just plan to fly
it.... many scale projects never fly because the builder is too afraid of
crashing after all that hard work!

One note of caution with these is to use the right kind of paint. I screwed
up on the white base coat, and had to cover the model later with clear poly
(which caused the white to yellow up some).

Leif


"Helicraz" <NoSpam@Goaway.spam> wrote in message
news:L4HLc.36$gH5.137@news.oracle.com...
> Anyone tried this kit?
>
>
http://www.heli-world.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CN1071&Category_Code=shk
>
> Is it tough to build for a beginner at scale heli? My only experience is
> Raptor 30 pod and boom.

[Beav]

"Leif Thomson" <lthomson@ccis.net> wrote in message
news:kThPc.1394$yo4.746264@monger.newsread.com...
> I've done the Funkey Bell 222 scale with the Kyosho Nexus 30 mechanics.
> It's a bit of engineering to get everything to fit right, especially if
you
> don't want servos showing in the cockpit area. If you have some skill
> building and finishing anything, it should not be too bad. Just plan to
fly
> it.... many scale projects never fly because the builder is too afraid of
> crashing after all that hard work!
>
> One note of caution with these is to use the right kind of paint. I
screwed
> up on the white base coat, and had to cover the model later with clear
poly
> (which caused the white to yellow up some).

The usual screw up is usng polyurethane clear coats Leif. It's THEM that
yellow, and a MUCH better clear is a 2 pack isocyanate based acrylic. Crap
for the user (unless they're well protected) but 2nd to none when it comes
to staying clear. Good for well over 30% nitro spillages too.


--
Beav


Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)

Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk

[Tim]

Beav wrote:
> "Leif Thomson" <lthomson@ccis.net> wrote in message
> news:kThPc.1394$yo4.746264@monger.newsread.com...
>> I've done the Funkey Bell 222 scale with the Kyosho Nexus 30
>> mechanics. It's a bit of engineering to get everything to fit right,
>> especially if you don't want servos showing in the cockpit area. If
>> you have some skill building and finishing anything, it should not
>> be too bad. Just plan to fly it.... many scale projects never fly
>> because the builder is too afraid of crashing after all that hard
>> work!
>>
>> One note of caution with these is to use the right kind of paint. I
>> screwed up on the white base coat, and had to cover the model later
>> with clear poly (which caused the white to yellow up some).
>
> The usual screw up is usng polyurethane clear coats Leif. It's THEM
> that yellow, and a MUCH better clear is a 2 pack isocyanate based
> acrylic. Crap for the user (unless they're well protected) but 2nd to
> none when it comes to staying clear. Good for well over 30% nitro
> spillages too.

When I finally finish my Airwolf, I think I may get it clear coated at a
professional spray place - I just don't have the facilities/skill to do it
properly.....

Tim

(PS: emphasis on "finally" - I decided to do my own semi-scale retracts,
with sprung oleos etc. Mounting them is proving a challenge, but I'm getting
there :) )


---
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[Leif Thomson]

<SNIP>
"Beav" <beavis.original@ntloxoworld.com> wrote in message
news:10gsj69kplvi997@news.supernews.com...
> The usual screw up is usng polyurethane clear coats Leif. It's THEM that
> yellow, and a MUCH better clear is a 2 pack isocyanate based acrylic. Crap
> for the user (unless they're well protected) but 2nd to none when it comes
> to staying clear. Good for well over 30% nitro spillages too.
>

YEP. That's what I used. Unfortunately, the underlying white paint is the
wrong stuff, and tends to crack when other paints or clear-coats are
applied. I finally got tired of worrying about the paint and clear-coated
it with polyurethane. Other than a nice "cream color" instead of white, it
looks good and should be reasonably fuel proof for 15%.

Being a first attempt, I'm more interested in getting the thing airworthy at
this point than working towards scale perfection. It's only a 30-size and
there's only so much you can do to get a good scale using a stock
30-mechanics. At 20 meters, it'll look just as good....

Leif

[Beav]

"Tim" <void@invalidemail.com> wrote in message
news:oHtPc.27593$a8.23154@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> Beav wrote:
> > "Leif Thomson" <lthomson@ccis.net> wrote in message
> > news:kThPc.1394$yo4.746264@monger.newsread.com...
> >> I've done the Funkey Bell 222 scale with the Kyosho Nexus 30
> >> mechanics. It's a bit of engineering to get everything to fit right,
> >> especially if you don't want servos showing in the cockpit area. If
> >> you have some skill building and finishing anything, it should not
> >> be too bad. Just plan to fly it.... many scale projects never fly
> >> because the builder is too afraid of crashing after all that hard
> >> work!
> >>
> >> One note of caution with these is to use the right kind of paint. I
> >> screwed up on the white base coat, and had to cover the model later
> >> with clear poly (which caused the white to yellow up some).
> >
> > The usual screw up is usng polyurethane clear coats Leif. It's THEM
> > that yellow, and a MUCH better clear is a 2 pack isocyanate based
> > acrylic. Crap for the user (unless they're well protected) but 2nd to
> > none when it comes to staying clear. Good for well over 30% nitro
> > spillages too.
>
> When I finally finish my Airwolf, I think I may get it clear coated at a
> professional spray place - I just don't have the facilities/skill to do it
> properly.....

That's not a bad idea Tim, and at least if you do that, any problems are the
sprayers problems.
>
> Tim
>
> (PS: emphasis on "finally" - I decided to do my own semi-scale retracts,
> with sprung oleos etc. Mounting them is proving a challenge, but I'm
getting
> there :) )

Can't beat making work for yerself :)


--
Beav


Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)

Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk