AirCav11
Jul 04, 2004, 12:48 PM
Painting the blades is not difficult. I'm about the most artistically challenged guy around. Can't even draw decent stick figures. It's been years upon years since I tried painting by numbers. The result was not even recognizable. Below is what I did.
Forums:
--------
I learned all of this from a combination of info on the forums and then experimenting with scrap ink jet paper or scrape plastic. The forums that were the most helpful were:
http://www.rcgroups.com/
RC Groups Discussion > Helicopters > Electric Helicopters
http://runryder.com/
Blades, Night Flying, and Painting
Scale Model RC Helicopters
www.ScaleRCHelis.com
Sanding:
--------
Use 400 and 600 grit sandpaper. Throughly sand the blades smooth. Wash them with soap and water. Then use a tack cloth to keep dust off each time you spray. It's best to use some type of glove. If you use Latex goves, like I did, wash the damn things off before touching the blades. They come packed and covered with some sort of white powder, guaranteed to screw things up.
Taping:
-------
If you're going to only use a single color, you can skip this step.
Taping was actually the most problematic step, due to the need to experiment with various types of tape. The wrong type (like yellow masking tape) will bleed under the edges. Some people reccommend 3M Low Tack Vinylm Masking Tape. I ended up using Pactra Masking Tape from the local LHS, and some vinyl electrical tape. However, the electrical tape is too sticky. There's a trick to taping, I got from the ScaleRCHelis forum. Once the tape is seated and pressed down properly, use some of the same color that you are trying to cover up, and with a tiny brush, seal the edge of the tape seam where it joins to where the new color will be sprayed. Once this has dried, you'll be guaranteed of a good seal. The other trick that I found with the blades, was not to wrap the tape around the side for front and back, because it leaves a tiny opening righ along the edge of the blade. Instead cut 2 pieces of tape, wider than the blade. Stick one one, leaving the tape extending past the sides. Then turn the blades over and do the same. Finally take some tweezers and press the edges where tape meets tape, to get a good seal along the blade edge. Also cover all of the blades that is not to be painted, otherwise over spray will anoy you. After taping the seam line where the 2 colors join, I covered the rest of the blade with some masking paper I got from Home Depot.
Airbrushing:
------------
Don't use a cheap airbrush with a can of compressed air from eBay. Don't buy a cheap $50 compressor from Harbor Freight. Been there, done that, no joy. You can rent or borrow a good airbrush or buy one for a reasonable price. I bought my compressor and Paasche Dual Action airbrush on sale for around $150.
Compressor http://www.airbrushcity.com/121ac.htm
Airbrush http://airbrushcity.com/1103.htm
Looks like they have different combination sales on now. Get a 60 psi compressor, and a high quality dual action airbrush.
Spray from about 10 inches away by continually moving the airbrush. If you get a run, stop, sling it off, or wipe it off, allow to dry, and resand with 600 grit. I managed to let it dry to the touch and then very lightly sand off the run. I also found that you can use the airbrush blowing air only to smooth out the run before it dries. Worst thing that can happen is you let it dry and sand off the mistake.
Thin the Model Master Enamel paints with Testors Airbrush Thinner. 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner. Clean the airbrush with regular paint thinner. Each time I am not going to be painting for at least 30 min or an hour, I simply pour a little paint thinner into the airbrush paint pickup tube while spraying in an empty can or box, until it runs clear. Takes about 30-60 sec.
Main Blades:
-------------
The Mil Spec number for the OD paint used on US Army helicoppters is Mil-C-53039A. The National stock number is: 8010-01-229-7546. The number you want to use is the Federal Stock Number, and it is 34031. The paint that I used is from the local LHS and is made by Testor. It's Model Master Enamel, US Army Helo Drab 34031. I used it because it seems to match the closest to army aircraft from the Vietnam era. It can be ordered on line. It will take a
little over 2 bottles (at 2.50 USD each) to paint 2 main rotor blades. I used around 4 coats, with 30-60 min between coats. And then 24 hours before taping for painting a different color. On a couple of the coats, I let it dry a little longer and then lightly sanded with 600 grit. I used some very stiff wire, run thru the 2 holes to make a crude hanger. I then hung them from a horizontal piece of the same wire, to dry.
The yellow blades tips tips are Model Master Enamel "Cadium Yellow Light 20110". I used around 4 coats.
The final 3 coats were Clear Coat, Flat Clear. 5 min between coats, Allowed to dry 24 hours.
Nito Tail Rotor Blades:
-----------------------
I taped these, and then painted with a very small, high quality, brush. In hindsight, the airbrush would have given a better effect, but the tiny brush lines are not visible on the small bands used on the tail rotor blades.
The red was Model Master enamel "Guard Red 27180".
The white was Model Master enamel "Flat White".
Sub Rotor, Teeter, Ball Links:
-------------------------------
Make sure you carefully sand all the curved and hard to get to spots. I used some small wire, run through the holes to suspend them in the air for spraying and drying. I used the same Model Master Enamel, US Army Helo Drab 34031.
Carbon Feather Plate, Hub, Follower Link:
-------------------------------------------
Make sure you carefully sand all the curved and hard to get to spots. I lightly sanded Matt's Carbon Fiber Feather plate with 600 grit. The paint stuck just fine to it. I had a can of automotive, aluminum colored, enamel paint, and used it instead of looking for another Model Master paint.
After finishing painting all of the above separately, I then re-assembled everything. On all of the areas that move, plastic on plastic, the paint layers may add enough thickness, ao that things are too tight. You can either not paint those areas, or what I did was use 600 grit paper to lighly sand until they moved freely.
Jim Hill :)
Forums:
--------
I learned all of this from a combination of info on the forums and then experimenting with scrap ink jet paper or scrape plastic. The forums that were the most helpful were:
http://www.rcgroups.com/
RC Groups Discussion > Helicopters > Electric Helicopters
http://runryder.com/
Blades, Night Flying, and Painting
Scale Model RC Helicopters
www.ScaleRCHelis.com
Sanding:
--------
Use 400 and 600 grit sandpaper. Throughly sand the blades smooth. Wash them with soap and water. Then use a tack cloth to keep dust off each time you spray. It's best to use some type of glove. If you use Latex goves, like I did, wash the damn things off before touching the blades. They come packed and covered with some sort of white powder, guaranteed to screw things up.
Taping:
-------
If you're going to only use a single color, you can skip this step.
Taping was actually the most problematic step, due to the need to experiment with various types of tape. The wrong type (like yellow masking tape) will bleed under the edges. Some people reccommend 3M Low Tack Vinylm Masking Tape. I ended up using Pactra Masking Tape from the local LHS, and some vinyl electrical tape. However, the electrical tape is too sticky. There's a trick to taping, I got from the ScaleRCHelis forum. Once the tape is seated and pressed down properly, use some of the same color that you are trying to cover up, and with a tiny brush, seal the edge of the tape seam where it joins to where the new color will be sprayed. Once this has dried, you'll be guaranteed of a good seal. The other trick that I found with the blades, was not to wrap the tape around the side for front and back, because it leaves a tiny opening righ along the edge of the blade. Instead cut 2 pieces of tape, wider than the blade. Stick one one, leaving the tape extending past the sides. Then turn the blades over and do the same. Finally take some tweezers and press the edges where tape meets tape, to get a good seal along the blade edge. Also cover all of the blades that is not to be painted, otherwise over spray will anoy you. After taping the seam line where the 2 colors join, I covered the rest of the blade with some masking paper I got from Home Depot.
Airbrushing:
------------
Don't use a cheap airbrush with a can of compressed air from eBay. Don't buy a cheap $50 compressor from Harbor Freight. Been there, done that, no joy. You can rent or borrow a good airbrush or buy one for a reasonable price. I bought my compressor and Paasche Dual Action airbrush on sale for around $150.
Compressor http://www.airbrushcity.com/121ac.htm
Airbrush http://airbrushcity.com/1103.htm
Looks like they have different combination sales on now. Get a 60 psi compressor, and a high quality dual action airbrush.
Spray from about 10 inches away by continually moving the airbrush. If you get a run, stop, sling it off, or wipe it off, allow to dry, and resand with 600 grit. I managed to let it dry to the touch and then very lightly sand off the run. I also found that you can use the airbrush blowing air only to smooth out the run before it dries. Worst thing that can happen is you let it dry and sand off the mistake.
Thin the Model Master Enamel paints with Testors Airbrush Thinner. 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner. Clean the airbrush with regular paint thinner. Each time I am not going to be painting for at least 30 min or an hour, I simply pour a little paint thinner into the airbrush paint pickup tube while spraying in an empty can or box, until it runs clear. Takes about 30-60 sec.
Main Blades:
-------------
The Mil Spec number for the OD paint used on US Army helicoppters is Mil-C-53039A. The National stock number is: 8010-01-229-7546. The number you want to use is the Federal Stock Number, and it is 34031. The paint that I used is from the local LHS and is made by Testor. It's Model Master Enamel, US Army Helo Drab 34031. I used it because it seems to match the closest to army aircraft from the Vietnam era. It can be ordered on line. It will take a
little over 2 bottles (at 2.50 USD each) to paint 2 main rotor blades. I used around 4 coats, with 30-60 min between coats. And then 24 hours before taping for painting a different color. On a couple of the coats, I let it dry a little longer and then lightly sanded with 600 grit. I used some very stiff wire, run thru the 2 holes to make a crude hanger. I then hung them from a horizontal piece of the same wire, to dry.
The yellow blades tips tips are Model Master Enamel "Cadium Yellow Light 20110". I used around 4 coats.
The final 3 coats were Clear Coat, Flat Clear. 5 min between coats, Allowed to dry 24 hours.
Nito Tail Rotor Blades:
-----------------------
I taped these, and then painted with a very small, high quality, brush. In hindsight, the airbrush would have given a better effect, but the tiny brush lines are not visible on the small bands used on the tail rotor blades.
The red was Model Master enamel "Guard Red 27180".
The white was Model Master enamel "Flat White".
Sub Rotor, Teeter, Ball Links:
-------------------------------
Make sure you carefully sand all the curved and hard to get to spots. I used some small wire, run through the holes to suspend them in the air for spraying and drying. I used the same Model Master Enamel, US Army Helo Drab 34031.
Carbon Feather Plate, Hub, Follower Link:
-------------------------------------------
Make sure you carefully sand all the curved and hard to get to spots. I lightly sanded Matt's Carbon Fiber Feather plate with 600 grit. The paint stuck just fine to it. I had a can of automotive, aluminum colored, enamel paint, and used it instead of looking for another Model Master paint.
After finishing painting all of the above separately, I then re-assembled everything. On all of the areas that move, plastic on plastic, the paint layers may add enough thickness, ao that things are too tight. You can either not paint those areas, or what I did was use 600 grit paper to lighly sand until they moved freely.
Jim Hill :)