Favorite built up wing sheeting technique

[Tim Jonas]

okay....I've used the "wet the sheet, glue the sheet, weight the sheet" technique since the Earth cooled. I've heard of the iron on titebond method, as well. Anyone got any other option I can use on the mighty Aquila which would make me happier?

[Strawbalebob]

You know, I heard about the iron-on titebond method YEARS ago, and since re-entering the hobby two months back I've built two planes this way. One is a Lil Bird HLG and the other is a modified 2M Spirit with full D-tube sheeting. The bottom sheets I CA to the ribs while the wing is still on the board, and the top sheet I do the iron-on method. I fly the HLG VERY aggresively once I jump off the top of the elevator and have had no delaminations, even after a few tough, uh, "landings." The Spirit is still on the board, should be done in a week or two.

Why do I never hear of anyone else using this method? Too heavy? Weak? Unreliable?


boB

[ICTHRMLS]

Contact cement method works well too. Smear some on the rib and corresponding area of the sheeting and let dry. Press in place and voila....... no weight needed and it's ready to go. Use the cement sparingly and "accurately" to avoid too much weight gain.

[Kestrel]

Please explain the iron on titebond method. There has to be an easier way than the glue,weight, pin thing.

[Tim Jonas]

You mark the sheeting where it will be contacting the spar, ribs, and leading edge...or anything else for that matter. You apply a 2-1 glue/water mix to the framework of the wing, and then to where you marked the sheeting. When this is dry, you put the sheeting on top of the frame work, and using a pretty hot iron, you iron the sheeting onto the framework. The heat causes the dried glue to liquefy slightly, melt into each surface, then dry.

[F3X]

I like the Wellwood contact cement. Fast and permanent.

I did my Sagitta 600 and that is still holding since I built it in 1983. (No I haven’t been flying it all along but the sheeting is still stout)

[Wiker]

I have tried weighting the sheeting down with different heavy objects but never been satisfied with the result until a used plastic bags filled with water. I like to use Titebond for glue. Put two platic bags (the size used for bred) inside each other (jyst in case) and fill up the inner bag with water. Sand will probably do as well. Lay out several bags side by side across the wing, as close as possible, to cover all the sheeting. This works closs to perfect. Dont need to wet the sheets.

[Tim Jonas]

I like the Wellwood contact cement. Fast and permanent.

I did my Sagitta 600 and that is still holding since I built it in 1983. (No I haven’t been flying it all along but the sheeting is still stout)


not much room for error, though.....

[big jer]

Guys: mark me down for another guy who likes the Iron on Titebond method. Did my Gemini that way in the 80's. The heat "polymerises (?)" the titebond. It dosen't let go.
I doubt if it will work on wood thicker than 3/32". Try it.

JDK

[stephen.s1]

..Alphatic on the spar to sheeting join. After that sets (weight it, easy to do cuz there're no seriously curved surfaces. That bond should secure the ribs to the spar also. The bottom sheeting should be shimmed up to bring it into contact with the ribs then use CA at those points. Install TE, lift wings from plan, use CA for the rest of the rib/sheeting joint (one rib at a time) and you're done. To continue, trim sheeting to LE of ribs, then using alphatic, secure the LE. Masking tape is used to hold the LE to the sheeting for the half hour or so that the glue takes to go off.

As I said, ..works for me.

Regarding weights; for many years I've been using 1.5" sq steel. 6 pieces at 12" and 6 pieces at 8".

Cheers,

S