efarmer
Nov 20, 2002, 01:00 AM
<blockquote>Greetings to all you soaring enthusiasts, and welcome to the first installment of the LiftZone’s competition column. My name is Eric Farmer, and I’ll be manning the helm at the LiftZone for all you guys (and gals) interested in soaring competition. I hope this column will become a valued resource to anyone interested in starting to fly competitions, as well as the seasoned competition pro. (Even us experienced guys tend to forget things from time to time.)</blockquote>
<blockquote>In accordance with this being the first installment of "Competitive Focus", I thought it appropriate to discuss the first rules of flying successful competitions, caring for your equipment.</blockquote>
<blockquote>When flying, your equipment is the medium between your talent and the sky. You can only fly and perform as well as your equipment can. Taking care of your equipment is the first, and one of the most important aspects that should be addressed when competing.</blockquote>
<p><big>Building Your Airframe</p></big>
<blockquote>Before you cut or glue the first part, make sure you are aware of and have acquired all the proper tools and materials. Having the proper tools is vital to a properly built model. The following is a short list of common tools.</blockquote>
<blockquote><ul>
<li>Razor blades (Make sure they are fresh. A sharp razor is one of the best tools you can have)</li>
<li>Adhesives (Thick, Medium, and Thin CA, and various resins ranging from 5min to a good laminating resin, and don’t forget the foam safe CA! It would be a tragedy to have the foam cores of your new birdy dissolve before you get to fly it.)</li>
<li>Various grits of sandpaper and a sanding block (80, 120, 220, 400, and 600 grits are usually adequate)</li>
<li>A Multi-Tool such as a Dremel or Ryobi is a very valuable addition to any workshop. I consider it to be a necessity.</li>
<li>Patience!</li>
</ul> </blockquote>
<blockquote>When you start the process of building a new competition airframe, whether it be a balsa gasbag or a new molded hotrod, you must think ahead. Make a thorough inspection of all parts, checking for accuracy and symmetry between left and right panels. It’s much easier to correct these problems before the building commences. </blockquote>
<blockquote>When installing radio gear, be very attentive to linkage cleanliness. Try to make all pushrod runs as straight as possible. Make sure your connections between the pushrods and the servo/control horn are slop free and articulate easily. The time it takes to make sure the holes in the horns match the diameters of the connectors is well worth the time when you consider the hassle that loose surfaces and possible flutter may present at a later date.</blockquote>
<blockquote>All servos should be securely mounted, whether by means of screws or adhesive. Many pilots like to use silicon adhesives such as Shoe-Goo to adhere their servos into wings. I have had very good luck with a few dots of 5-minute epoxy. It will hold under all flight loads, but can be broken away in the event that the servo needs service of some sort.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Your receiver and servos should both be firmly secured into the fuselage. It is also a very good idea to cradle the receiver in foam, if at all possible. Many of the newer ultra-thin fuselages do not allow for this, but if you can get away with it, do it.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Be cautious when using adhesives. Glue is heavy, and excess glue DOES NOT add strength, only weight. Generally, if you think you’re using too much glue, you probably are. You would be amazed at how little adhesive is really required to make a proper bond between two surfaces. Always be sure to clean the two surfaces to be bonded. If it’s a composite surface, some common rubbing alcohol will do fine. Any hard cured surface that is meant to be glued will typically benefit from a few swipes from a piece of 120 or 220 grit sandpaper. The rougher surface will "grab" better.</blockquote>
<blockquote>When making any electrical connections, be sure your solder joints are hot and clean. Excess solder is bad. For most electrical connections in a typical sailplane (servo leads usually), a 20 to 25 watt soldering iron and 1/32” rosin core solder is more than sufficient. A good soldering iron can be purchased for $6 to $10 at your local Radio Shack. Also, always insulate your connections with either heatshrink tubing or electrical tape. Heatshrink is preferred. I find the best heatshrink to be available from specialty electronic stores. It has a matte finish and is usually black in color.</blockquote>
<p><big>Caring For Batteries</p></big>
<blockquote>Most people who know me would say that I have no right to tell anyone how to care for their batteries, but I’ve learned the hard way how important it is to monitor your flight pack’s condition. Not only do you need to make sure your battery is charged before you fly (duh?), but check to see if it’s in good condition. There are many good chargers on the market today that do a good job of this at a reasonable price. If you can fit it into your budget, get a charger that can monitor amperage into the pack during charge, as well as amperage taken out during discharge. A charger with an automatic cycling function is a big plus.</blockquote>
<p><big>Radio Setup</p></big>
<blockquote>It is critical that you spend some good quality time with your radio (especially if it’s a complex computer type). Learn the ins and outs of its programming, what does what, what its favorite movie is, if it likes long walks on the beach, etc. Chances are that if you compete, there will be at least one time where you need to make a quick change to the programming, possibly while preparing to launch or even while in the air. </blockquote>
<blockquote>Be sure there is symmetry in the control throws between left and right ailerons, flaps, etc. Make sure your rudder has equal travel in both directions. These things are very basic and easy to do, and you’d be surprised what a few minutes with your plane, radio, and a ruler can do for the performance of the model.</blockquote>
<p><big>Towhooks</p></big>
<blockquote>Your towhook must be securely bolted to the fuselage. If you can rotate it by hand, it needs to be tightened. The stresses on the hook during tow are immense, and it can very easily come loose and rotate while on the line. This can lead to an unexpected pop off, or worse yet, damage to the model. Make sure it’s tight.</blockquote>
<p><big>Nosecones/Canopies</p></big>
<blockquote>Most models these days have slip on nosecones to access the radio compartment. These nosecones must be properly seated onto the inner nose. If you have one of the newer molded models, chances are this issue has been taken care of already. However, if you’re flying an American made model, you probably need to pot the nosecone to fit the inner nose. You can do this easily by waxing the front of your inner nose, pouring a small amount of 5-minute epoxy into the nosecone (making sure it is at the very tip of the nose), and then sliding the nosecone onto the fuselage while the tail is pointed up. Tape the nosecone on and keep it tail-up until the epoxy has cured, and then remove the cone. Your nosecone should now fit snug over the inner nose.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Whenever you have any form of removable nosecone, canopy, or hatch, they must be securely fastened during flight. This can be as simple as a strip of tape or a latch of some sort. Take your pick. They all work. Just make sure it stays put!</blockquote>
<p><big>Covering</p></big>
<blockquote>If you’re flying a model that uses a film covering, be sure that the covering is tight and free of wrinkles. With a good covering iron and a little TLC, you should have no problem getting any wrinkles out (given that you covered the model properly). Heat guns can also be useful for this purpose.</blockquote>
<blockquote>All of the issues mentioned above are applicable to all models, not just those meant for competition. Taking the time to build a model correctly and keeping it in good shape is the first step to successful R/C flying of any type, especially competition. Make periodic checks of your airframe and its components to make sure they are in good working condition. If you see anything that needs work, take care of it. The small amount of time and effort it takes to make sure a servo connection is solid, or that a pushrod is in good working order is well worth the life of your model. </blockquote>
<blockquote>Next month we’ll go over the basics of launching and landing. There are many philosophies that exist on those subjects, and I’ll try to give you some good starting points and rules of thumb on how to develop your own style and become proficient and consistent when leaving and returning to terra firma.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Finally, keep an eye out for an upcoming review of the Whisper 2M competition sailplane from Hobby Lobby.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/competition/whisper.jpg" border="2"></p>
<blockquote>That’s it for this month. Good flying to you all.</blockquote>
<blockquote>In accordance with this being the first installment of "Competitive Focus", I thought it appropriate to discuss the first rules of flying successful competitions, caring for your equipment.</blockquote>
<blockquote>When flying, your equipment is the medium between your talent and the sky. You can only fly and perform as well as your equipment can. Taking care of your equipment is the first, and one of the most important aspects that should be addressed when competing.</blockquote>
<p><big>Building Your Airframe</p></big>
<blockquote>Before you cut or glue the first part, make sure you are aware of and have acquired all the proper tools and materials. Having the proper tools is vital to a properly built model. The following is a short list of common tools.</blockquote>
<blockquote><ul>
<li>Razor blades (Make sure they are fresh. A sharp razor is one of the best tools you can have)</li>
<li>Adhesives (Thick, Medium, and Thin CA, and various resins ranging from 5min to a good laminating resin, and don’t forget the foam safe CA! It would be a tragedy to have the foam cores of your new birdy dissolve before you get to fly it.)</li>
<li>Various grits of sandpaper and a sanding block (80, 120, 220, 400, and 600 grits are usually adequate)</li>
<li>A Multi-Tool such as a Dremel or Ryobi is a very valuable addition to any workshop. I consider it to be a necessity.</li>
<li>Patience!</li>
</ul> </blockquote>
<blockquote>When you start the process of building a new competition airframe, whether it be a balsa gasbag or a new molded hotrod, you must think ahead. Make a thorough inspection of all parts, checking for accuracy and symmetry between left and right panels. It’s much easier to correct these problems before the building commences. </blockquote>
<blockquote>When installing radio gear, be very attentive to linkage cleanliness. Try to make all pushrod runs as straight as possible. Make sure your connections between the pushrods and the servo/control horn are slop free and articulate easily. The time it takes to make sure the holes in the horns match the diameters of the connectors is well worth the time when you consider the hassle that loose surfaces and possible flutter may present at a later date.</blockquote>
<blockquote>All servos should be securely mounted, whether by means of screws or adhesive. Many pilots like to use silicon adhesives such as Shoe-Goo to adhere their servos into wings. I have had very good luck with a few dots of 5-minute epoxy. It will hold under all flight loads, but can be broken away in the event that the servo needs service of some sort.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Your receiver and servos should both be firmly secured into the fuselage. It is also a very good idea to cradle the receiver in foam, if at all possible. Many of the newer ultra-thin fuselages do not allow for this, but if you can get away with it, do it.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Be cautious when using adhesives. Glue is heavy, and excess glue DOES NOT add strength, only weight. Generally, if you think you’re using too much glue, you probably are. You would be amazed at how little adhesive is really required to make a proper bond between two surfaces. Always be sure to clean the two surfaces to be bonded. If it’s a composite surface, some common rubbing alcohol will do fine. Any hard cured surface that is meant to be glued will typically benefit from a few swipes from a piece of 120 or 220 grit sandpaper. The rougher surface will "grab" better.</blockquote>
<blockquote>When making any electrical connections, be sure your solder joints are hot and clean. Excess solder is bad. For most electrical connections in a typical sailplane (servo leads usually), a 20 to 25 watt soldering iron and 1/32” rosin core solder is more than sufficient. A good soldering iron can be purchased for $6 to $10 at your local Radio Shack. Also, always insulate your connections with either heatshrink tubing or electrical tape. Heatshrink is preferred. I find the best heatshrink to be available from specialty electronic stores. It has a matte finish and is usually black in color.</blockquote>
<p><big>Caring For Batteries</p></big>
<blockquote>Most people who know me would say that I have no right to tell anyone how to care for their batteries, but I’ve learned the hard way how important it is to monitor your flight pack’s condition. Not only do you need to make sure your battery is charged before you fly (duh?), but check to see if it’s in good condition. There are many good chargers on the market today that do a good job of this at a reasonable price. If you can fit it into your budget, get a charger that can monitor amperage into the pack during charge, as well as amperage taken out during discharge. A charger with an automatic cycling function is a big plus.</blockquote>
<p><big>Radio Setup</p></big>
<blockquote>It is critical that you spend some good quality time with your radio (especially if it’s a complex computer type). Learn the ins and outs of its programming, what does what, what its favorite movie is, if it likes long walks on the beach, etc. Chances are that if you compete, there will be at least one time where you need to make a quick change to the programming, possibly while preparing to launch or even while in the air. </blockquote>
<blockquote>Be sure there is symmetry in the control throws between left and right ailerons, flaps, etc. Make sure your rudder has equal travel in both directions. These things are very basic and easy to do, and you’d be surprised what a few minutes with your plane, radio, and a ruler can do for the performance of the model.</blockquote>
<p><big>Towhooks</p></big>
<blockquote>Your towhook must be securely bolted to the fuselage. If you can rotate it by hand, it needs to be tightened. The stresses on the hook during tow are immense, and it can very easily come loose and rotate while on the line. This can lead to an unexpected pop off, or worse yet, damage to the model. Make sure it’s tight.</blockquote>
<p><big>Nosecones/Canopies</p></big>
<blockquote>Most models these days have slip on nosecones to access the radio compartment. These nosecones must be properly seated onto the inner nose. If you have one of the newer molded models, chances are this issue has been taken care of already. However, if you’re flying an American made model, you probably need to pot the nosecone to fit the inner nose. You can do this easily by waxing the front of your inner nose, pouring a small amount of 5-minute epoxy into the nosecone (making sure it is at the very tip of the nose), and then sliding the nosecone onto the fuselage while the tail is pointed up. Tape the nosecone on and keep it tail-up until the epoxy has cured, and then remove the cone. Your nosecone should now fit snug over the inner nose.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Whenever you have any form of removable nosecone, canopy, or hatch, they must be securely fastened during flight. This can be as simple as a strip of tape or a latch of some sort. Take your pick. They all work. Just make sure it stays put!</blockquote>
<p><big>Covering</p></big>
<blockquote>If you’re flying a model that uses a film covering, be sure that the covering is tight and free of wrinkles. With a good covering iron and a little TLC, you should have no problem getting any wrinkles out (given that you covered the model properly). Heat guns can also be useful for this purpose.</blockquote>
<blockquote>All of the issues mentioned above are applicable to all models, not just those meant for competition. Taking the time to build a model correctly and keeping it in good shape is the first step to successful R/C flying of any type, especially competition. Make periodic checks of your airframe and its components to make sure they are in good working condition. If you see anything that needs work, take care of it. The small amount of time and effort it takes to make sure a servo connection is solid, or that a pushrod is in good working order is well worth the life of your model. </blockquote>
<blockquote>Next month we’ll go over the basics of launching and landing. There are many philosophies that exist on those subjects, and I’ll try to give you some good starting points and rules of thumb on how to develop your own style and become proficient and consistent when leaving and returning to terra firma.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Finally, keep an eye out for an upcoming review of the Whisper 2M competition sailplane from Hobby Lobby.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/nov/competition/whisper.jpg" border="2"></p>
<blockquote>That’s it for this month. Good flying to you all.</blockquote>