Paint of Cover Oly2 and Viking fuselage?

[TheAMAZINGNorad]

Question for everybody. I was sitting here trying to figure out how many rolls of covering I need to order when I saw a few pics of painted fuselages. I got curious and am wondering what the advantages are of painting vs covering. Is painting lighter? If I were to paint the fuselages, what exactly would I need and is it hard to do properly for a first timer? Thanks. Wanting to get my two fuses covered and flying this month!

[Tim Jonas]

The Oly 2 is extremely easy to cover, given that there are very few curves. The nose is the only section that has curves, and even those are pretty easy. IMO, this fuselage is much easier to cover than to paint. The surface prep for covering is easier, I believe. I suspect that, in the long run, the weight is likely to be close to the same, although paint can get heavy. Painting isn't difficult. A simple can of Rustoleum over a well-sanded and primed fuselage looks very good. I'm more apt to paint fuselages with curves.

I can't recall the shape of the Viking fuselage.

as ever, YMMV

[TheAMAZINGNorad]

http://stuwww.tcu.edu/~ckfleming/viking2.jpg

That is the viking ready to cover. If I do cover the fuselage, a few questions. When I covered my paragon i had trouble with 3 areas. 1, how do you keep from getting the little air bubles under the covering? Does that priker tool monokote sells really work? 2, how do you do the nose? When I did it i had to use 4 pieces and it looks like a crinkeled MESS. Lastly, I had problems getting a nice clean cut down the entire fuselage when triming off the excess covering before sealing a corner. Whats the best way to ensure a nice cut the whole length?

O yea, you think I could cover both fuses with one roll of white monokote? Its been so long since I covered the Paragon I can't remember how much I used.

[Tim Jonas]

yeah, you should be able to cover that fairly easily. That tool really works. I've found, however, that Ultracote, rather than Monokote, works better over sheeted surfaces, as long as you monitor the heat of the iron. The nose shouldn't need 4 separate pieces. One of the tricks of covering the nose is to leave a few inches oversize on the front end. That way, you can grab the excess covering, heat the covering and pull as you iron the covering down. It works like a champ.

You can take a straight edge, like a ruler, or a yard stick, tape it closely to the edge you want to cut after you have ironed it on, and then use a sharp razor or #11 blade and cut along the straight edge. Make sense?

You should be able to cover both fuses with one roll. Again, my personal preference is Ultracote over sheeted surfaces. Just follow the instructions.

Edited to say that I prefer Ultra vs. Mono to cover sheeted surfaces.

[Tim Jonas]

also, Top Flite makes a Monokote trim tool available at Tower Hobbies...this also does a good job giving a straight edge.

[No Step]

The trick to covering complex contoured surfaces without wrinkles is to make sure you are heating the covering >ahead< of, as well as, >where< you are currently attaching it too,..... >>and pulling<< (stretching) as you go >ahead< of attach point also.

On trimming, I CA a 1/8" balsa scrap to a double edge razorblade preferably, lay that balsa on the adjacent surface and slide it along to cut a nice straight seam. Double edge seem better for trimming, but maybe it's just me. Always use a new razorblade when trimming. Ultracoat >eats< razorblades replace often, Monokote is not so bad it seems.
As with anything, the more you practice the better you get. Nice Viking!

Fred
http://mysite.verizon.net/res7oqj1/index.html

[TheAMAZINGNorad]

Tim, is the tool you are refering to the little covering trim iron or the double razor blade thing? Speaking of trim, whats the preferable way to make small trim stripes. I want to run a trim stripe down the fuse and also put a white trim piec e between color panels. Cut covering or use one of the various trim covering rools they sell @ towerhobby? As far as application, i've heard alot about using ammonia based windex and a squeege but never tried it.

As far as the main covering goes, I wante a transparent purple, transparent yellow, and white scheem for the Viking. However, I cant find transparent purple Monokote! I can only find transparent violet UltraCote. I need transparent blue, transparent yellow, and then the white and transparent purple. I was gonna stick with monokote for the blue, yellow, and white and use the ultracoat for the purple, but I might try your sugestion on using the white ultracoat. Anything I will need to know when working with the Ultracoat vs. the Monokote?

Also, where is the best place to order ultracoat covering. Towerhobbies selection leaves alot to be desired if monokote dont carry the color.

Lastly, I was looking @ the monokote pricker tool. Seems like it will work well on the balsa ends, but what about the plywood front sections? How do you keep the bubles from forming there?

Thanks for putting up with me and offering all the help. I'm really trying to improve over my last covering job and unforunatley have nobody around to help tutor me. Need to find some people in Raleigh for the Summer and Ft. Worth during the school year.