View Full Version : Bird of Time Radio Selection
amike_321
Jun 02, 2004, 01:05 PM
I have a Bird of Time Arf that Im assembling. I need some recommedations for servos, Rx, and Rx battery. I have a Futaba 6XA that I'll be using to control this beast. The ARF instructions say to use one standard servo, one micro servo, I definately dont want to skimp on the Rx or the Rx Battery. I was thinking of this combination.
Futaba Standard Servo, i think its the s3003 or s3004, Hitec 55 or Futaba equivalent, a 7 channel Futaba Rx or similar range (Dual Conversion is a must), and a square or flat 4.8v 1000mah Nicad or NiMh Rx pack. What do the other BOT flyers have in their ships? Thanks.
GBR2
Jun 02, 2004, 03:40 PM
I've got
Berg 5 receiver
1100ma square Nicad pack
HiTec HS-300 servo for the rudder
GWS Pico +BB servo for the elevator
Electrodynamics 24" buffered extension for the GWS servo
Holliday Designs Switchjack in place of the standard switch
amike_321
Jun 02, 2004, 04:47 PM
Okay this is a new one for me. What is a buffered extension? I would think this has something to do with the length of the extension right? I have a Berg 5 in my Gentle Lady, So far I havent had any glitches or hits. Pretty good for a single conversion Rx.
GBR2
Jun 02, 2004, 06:07 PM
The buffered extension has a small circuit in the middle of the lead that helps to get rid of any extranous signal due to the long length of the lead. Actually, I've never had any problem with long leads but I had this in my accessory box, so decided to use it. My friend who had basically the same setup in his BOT ARF, has just a standard lead and he hasn't had any problems.
Trobin
Jun 02, 2004, 08:45 PM
I've got a:
Flash 5 Transmitter
Electron 6 Hitec Rx
Hitec 55 servo for the elavator
Standard Airtronics servo for Rudder
Works fine but I've read a couple of threads where people are going to mount two standard size servos up front and run a bell crank in the tail for greater elavator throw and torque. Sounds like a good idea. If anyone has done this mod I'd be interested in pictures! FYI - I strengthened the center section and use it on a winch with about 15 flights and with gentle tapping I've had no problems.
Trobin
Jun 02, 2004, 08:48 PM
Also forgot that I needed extra weight up front for balance so I replaced the standard 700mah battery with a 1400mah one. I figured as long as I'm adding the weight I might as well get something out of it.
amike_321
Jun 03, 2004, 11:39 AM
I'll keep that in mind when I go to balance mine. Thanks for the suggestions. It looks like a Berg 5 will do, standard servo up front and hs-55 in the tail, a larger capacity battery. What other about charge jacks and switches?
GBR2
Jun 03, 2004, 01:46 PM
I'm using a Hollyday Design Switchjack in mine. They are out of business now but the website is still up and lists all the parts he used when he sold them. The parts are superior to what you get at radio shack, so if you went that way I'd suggest getting those parts that Hollyday used (website is hollyday.com with the three w's in front of course). Makes for a clean installation.
ejett
Jun 04, 2004, 12:59 AM
I used a standard size servo for the rudder and a Hitec HS-60 for the stabs. I used a Hitec 555 receiver and a 1650 mah pack in the nose. I used a Hollyday Switchjack in mine as well. I did not have to add any additional nose weight.
The Hs-60 is pretty snug but it will fit. I had to use my RD-8000 to increase travel volume to give me the throw on the stabs that I wanted.
There was an old thread with the belcrank arrangement in it with pics. If I can find it I'll post the link.
Ed Jett
Trobin
Jun 04, 2004, 02:00 PM
I purchased an on/off swtich with a built in charging jack. I bought it at my LHS but it's distributed by MPI. The plans show an on/of switch on the side towards the rear of the canopy area but I put it towards the front of the canopy and the receiver towards the rear. It simply worked out better that way. Used a small drill and dremel tool to cut the fiberglass.
gdjsky01
Jun 04, 2004, 03:30 PM
The parts are superior to what you get at radio shack, so if you went that way I'd suggest getting those parts that Hollyday used (website is hollyday.com with the three w's in front of course). Makes for a clean installation.
I believe California Sailplanes also details how to make a switch jack from parts available at mouser electronics. Basically a jack that when pulled sends juice to the RX or when installed acts as a breaker turning off the RX and becoming a charging jack.
Jeff
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