View Full Version : Flytosky.com F-16 arrived today!
Flying Weasle
May 26, 2004, 10:32 AM
Well, it has arrived. Took 5 days to get here, (Alabama). Not bad considering it went through customs in Kennedy AMC. Nothing broken. The kit looks great. Fits together well and the wings and stabs are made of a plastic coated foam, very tough and pretty rigid. The nose cone is plastic, not foam. The motor is mounted in a plastic nacell with a metal insert, nice touch. Your piece pack comes with 2 props, battery box , servo horns and various pieces needed. Color printed Photocopy instructions in english.
Flying Weasle
May 26, 2004, 11:42 AM
Ok, upon closer inspection, one of my fuselages has been cut. Fore and aft. So the fuse is actually 3 pieces. I was told that one was damaged so, i guess they cut off the damaged parts and replaced them. Not a big deal to me but, may matter to someone else. REVISED: (ok, nevermind, i think it comes this way to use as replacement sections) It comes like this for an easy build. This way you can get to the electronics without tearing the bird apart. Also the props that have been included are puller props, not pusher. So, i will be using a Firebird prop, the smaller one not the large one. Looks to be about a 5x2. The FB is on the left the Kit prop is on the right. Stay tuned for the build.
Larry
CooLJ92
May 26, 2004, 12:55 PM
Flying Weasle,
I just purchase mine a couple of days ago. Please keep us posted on your progress and any tips you may recommend. I cannot wait to receive mine. I was checking out their website and saw the new brushless F-16 video. I am considering installing a brushless motor too.
Thanks for the great pictures.
jj :cool:
Wof
May 26, 2004, 02:55 PM
Any dimensions on this one wingspan etc
Flying Weasle
May 26, 2004, 03:41 PM
http://www.flytosky.net/
Length:640mm ●Wing Span:590mm
●Net Weight with motor:215g
●Package Weight:450g
●Package Size:60×21×10cm
RC Equipment Excluded, You need to prepare:
●3-4 channel control
●3-4 channel receiver
●9g naro/pico servo x2
●15-18A ESC
●Battery 7.2V 1800-2400mAh Li-poly
Package Included:
Fuselage x2 ●Wing x1 pair
●MABUCHI350 motor x1
●4.2x2 propellerx2
●Parts set
●25g Glue x1
●Beautiful Sticker set x1
●Assembly Instructionx1
Flying Weasle
May 26, 2004, 09:35 PM
Ok, done with it. Straight forward build , pretty simple for a descent hobbiest. Some neat ways they have for attaching points. I went with CA'able fiber joints. Foam safe CA of course, instead of tape. One thing that i can't get to work is the batt box. It's too small for my Tanic 1500 2S LiPo. I chose the second method they have for the elevator servo. Cut out the side wall to fit it on. Then a simple paint job. The only problem i have is the motor cashed out after about 12 seconds. Burned slap up. I'll contact them to see what i can do about it. Other than that, great looking plane, great build, nice, simple and to the point. I'll have the maiden in the morning to see how she flies. I have a Piccolo 410 motor i'll put in it. I don't like the motor though. Then i'll try the Hacker B20-31S with a 3S Kokam 1500 LiPo to see how different it is.
Edward at http://www.flytosky.net/ is very prompt and professional. He sent tracking #'s to me also. I would highly recommend Fly to sky for their F-16.
Let's hope she flies great.
EDITED: one other thing i like is the fact that the kit includes carbon Fiber rods, not bamboo like some others.
SOCADJE
May 26, 2004, 09:47 PM
I just orderd 2 from the web site...1 to fly and one for reserve :)...Please post on first flight ect.. yours looks cool was the wings done with air brush?
Flying Weasle
May 26, 2004, 09:56 PM
Yea, just a quick airbrush job.
flighttosky
May 26, 2004, 10:34 PM
Ok, upon closer inspection, one of my fuselages has been cut. Fore and aft. So the fuse is actually 3 pieces. I was told that one was damaged so, i guess they cut off the damaged parts and replaced them. Not a big deal to me but, may matter to someone else. REVISED: (ok, nevermind, i think it comes this way to use as replacement sections) It comes like this for an easy build. This way you can get to the electronics without tearing the bird apart. Also the props that have been included are puller props, not pusher. So, i will be using a Firebird prop, the smaller one not the large one. Looks to be about a 5x2. The FB is on the left the Kit prop is on the right. Stay tuned for the build.
Larry
the 3 pieces fuselage is not a demaged replacement, we need to cut it into 3 pieces to let us remove the bottom part of fuselage for repairing and installing electrical parts.
like this diagram
flighttosky
May 26, 2004, 10:42 PM
Nice Job, Flying Weasle, Good painting!!!
and thanks for your detail installation thread!!!
please remind that CG setting is very important to this plane
Hope to see video or picture about F16 flying in sky!
DiabloKid
May 27, 2004, 12:10 AM
man, is that video on the website with the stock motor? that little thing hauls around niceley!!
looks like a nice plane with a great price!!
flighttosky
May 27, 2004, 01:49 AM
yes, it comes with motor, and the second video is using motor given to fly
Flying Weasle
May 27, 2004, 02:18 AM
Well, i just put my Hacker Brushless in it, B20-31s. I'll fly it tomorrow. My AUW is 12.4 oz with a Kokam 1200 3s batt.
My COG is only around 25-26 mm in front of the spar, the desired COG is 29-35 mm in front of spar. Hopefully this will be good enough. Everything i have is moved as far forward as i can.
flighttosky
May 27, 2004, 03:20 AM
If CG is not ok, you can put some lead into a nose of this plane.
I put 20g total in my F16.
Flying Weasle
May 27, 2004, 05:12 PM
Well, i took it out to the park today. And ....................... Man is this thing fast! My COG was too far towards the rear so it wanted to nose up. I don't want to add weight so i'll shift things around to get it better. Looks like the COG will wind up around 35 mm from spar. I didn't fly it long due to strong winds but, it appears to be very agile and looks like roll rate will be most excellent. Once i get it trimmed out right and the COG in the propper spot, it will be a nice little bird. I think with the second body i will bypass the ailerons and go with a mix for the tail feathers. Using only them for control like T.N.'s Flanker.
flighttosky
May 27, 2004, 09:47 PM
Thanks for your sharing!!
I am looking forward to your "ailerons and go with a mix for the tail feathers"
Will you take any video about your flight, if yes, please send a link to share with us!
Thanks
RCParkflyer
May 27, 2004, 10:19 PM
Since no one asked yet, how close is this in size to a Flying Styro Jet?
Keith Buckner
May 27, 2004, 11:10 PM
I just received my FS F16, and met Flying Weasel this morning at the field.. for his maiden flight.
I brought the kit with me and we compared the size of the fuselages and wings (my kit remains unassembled). His FTS F16 is smaller (about 4" shorter), but , IMHO seems MUCH sturdier than the FS F16, and is, apparently an easier build.
I plan to order a FTS F16 as soon as I get the FS F16 built and airborne.
Flying Weasel's bird was amazingly FAST with the brushless pusher... MUCH faster than my FS is gonna be with a brushless EDF, I'm sure!
Flying Weasle
May 28, 2004, 01:31 AM
Yup, will do. Maybe Keith will host my video of it. I'll get a video of it in the manor it was intended to be built also. Then when i find time, in between my playing around and building the Tomcat, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233802
I'll turn the other body into the mixing bird.
supershuey
May 28, 2004, 06:26 AM
HI ALL
i have 2 on order and i was wondering what motor (brushless)
you will all be trying are you still going direct drive if so do i have
to get a low kv motor.i have a spare mp jet but dont know if it is
good enough for this plane,25/25-26
what other motors would be good for this little jet
many thanx :D
RCParkflyer
May 28, 2004, 10:56 AM
Flying Weasel's bird was amazingly FAST with the brushless pusher... MUCH faster than my FS is gonna be with a brushless EDF, I'm sure!
Keith,
Just remember yours is going to be an EDF (Like Mine) What fan are you going to use? I've been thinking about the Vasa 55 but others have used a wemotec microfan / Astro combination with good results.
flighttosky
May 28, 2004, 11:11 AM
HI ALL
i have 2 on order and i was wondering what motor (brushless)
you will all be trying are you still going direct drive if so do i have
to get a low kv motor.i have a spare mp jet but dont know if it is
good enough for this plane,25/25-26
what other motors would be good for this little jet
many thanx :D
Hi Supershuey, I am using Himax 2015-4100 ( 4100kv direct drive) with 11.1v 1900mah li-ion, it give a very powerful speed!! just like what you watch in my video!!
I hope this experience can help you
Keith Buckner
May 28, 2004, 11:16 AM
RCParkflyer,
Yes, I DO remember that .. THAT is why I stated that MINE will be a Brushless EDF, and I expect it to be a bit slower. :)
Like most folks, I am also going with the Astro010/Wemotec/ESC combo from aeromicro:
http://www.aeromicro.com/Catalog/micro_fan_with_astro_flight_010_brushless_motor__8 _t__and_varibale_speed_esc__80_1564456.htm
In fact it JUST arrived, as I was typing this reply,.. looks nice!
The consensus seems to be the Wimotec is a bit more efficient than the Vasa, and it is difficult to pass up the price of the combo!!
I just ordered the FTS bird, today, also. May try to convert it to EDF. The smaller size and greater wing span should would make a big difference with the same fan.
Good luck with yours.. I'm taking my time with mine, as I get to enjoy Flying Weasel's endless projects :). I wish I had HIS time to devote to this hobby!!
supershuey
May 28, 2004, 06:26 PM
thanx
my mp jet motor has a kv of 4100 too does that mean it will be ok too use
i noticed you said you used lion battery is there a reason or just used what you had,i have a few different packs 2s 3s 3s2p 2s2p but all lipoly.
i might be buying a himax then or what other motors would run this little
f16 and yes i wnt it fast just like in the vid
cheers
Flying Weasle
May 28, 2004, 07:06 PM
I just got back from flying it, trimmed out and COG at 35mm before spar. And it flies great. It's not for the noobie or squemish. It has a great roll rate and the turns are tight. It was still a bit windy, 10-14mph winds, so, i didn't get to really go all out but, i am happy with it. I still don't have the prop ratio right yet. My batt stays cool but the motor is getting hot. Using a direct drive 4x4 GWS prop. I'll try a 4x2 and see what happens. Probably lose some thrust.
flighttosky
May 28, 2004, 09:28 PM
supershuey:
Yes, I have li-ion and li-poly battery, I use take one of those and put it on the plane, so no special reason to chose li-ion. but one thing is important that you should use battery which can be draw 10-13A, because I find when full power, and use GWS4025 propeller direct drive, it draw 12.95 maximum, but not continuously. (I use 11.1v 3s 1900mah). Good Luck!!
Flying Weasle:
I am happy to see you successfully finish a flight with F16!!! what motor did you used?? brushless??
I find it is really fast and fly great and make a landing gear for my plane too, I will test it any difference in flying today, let me share the building procedure with all of us later!!
Flying Weasle
May 28, 2004, 10:26 PM
Yea, i would like to see the gear. Let us know how you do it, as some of us may choose to use gear.
I use the Hacker B20-31S with CC Phoenix 25 ESC. And a Kokam 1500 mah 3s LiPo. I will change it to a Himax 2025-4200 soon so i can use the Hacker in my Tomcat. I will be using two Hacker B20-31S's in my tomcat.
Flying Weasle
May 29, 2004, 11:56 PM
here is a short video of it with the above electronics.
http://alpinetek.netfirms.com/F16/052904.wmv
flighttosky
May 30, 2004, 12:43 AM
Cool!!! Your F16 with Hacker flied very fast!! nice flying technique, flying field and weather also!! :D
here I share the procedure of installating gear
I use 3mm piano wire to build a gear
and heat contracting plastic tube is used for fixing wheel on the gear.
flighttosky
May 30, 2004, 12:47 AM
and stick it on the position on CG (this time I wrongly put on position behind CG, so need a long way to take off, don't do that!! :D )
flighttosky
May 30, 2004, 01:03 AM
Now is doing front gear,
build a wire, use foam board to build a pad(must let gear can move left or right)
and use a pico servo to control a direction
flighttosky
May 30, 2004, 01:07 AM
use fiber tape to fix the gear
and the triangle part is used for prevent propeller hit the ground when take of and landing
I still think about retracting gear set, but this plane is too small to build it
enojoy!!
Flying Weasle
Jun 01, 2004, 03:39 AM
Good job Edward. Did you put an extra servo for the front gear? If so, you can take it out and use the aileron servo to do the same thing. Just run a tube from the servo area out the front and run a wire from the servo to the gear, when you turn the ailerons, it will turn the wheel also, and , you can run the same situation to the rear for the rudder, providing that the servo is strong enough.Her is what i did with the second body. Used elevons instead of ailerons and elevators.
The Carbon fiber tube is a .254 tube from http://www.airdyn.com/superior/carbon-tubes.htm
the rod is a .125 rod.
I used bluecore for the elevons instead of cutting the wings i have.
My center of gravity has not moved, still 33mm there is plenty of space n the fuselage for this project.
Flying Weasle
Jun 01, 2004, 03:41 AM
I used CF for reinforcing the wing edge and a small cardboard washer to prevent binding. I used tape to bind the ailerons to keep them from moving.
CooLJ92
Jun 04, 2004, 02:08 PM
FlightoSky,
What size of the GWS prop are you using. I noticed on your posted pictures that it is (I assume) a GWS prop, which is different from the one that is provided on the kit itself.
Can you provide me with the size of it. I tried experimenting with a GWS 4040 prop, but it does not put out enough thrust.
Thanks.
jj :cool:
flighttosky
Jun 04, 2004, 02:42 PM
My friend using orginal propeller with 350 motor is good enough to fly to sky.
why I use 4025GWS propeller? it is my practice on using himax 2015-4100 direct push.
because I test it on my su27 before, it give good power to my plane. so this time, I use this on my F16
badbill
Jun 05, 2004, 01:29 PM
Test flew mine today w/ the stock motor & prop. I noticed in a thread above that someone said the stock prop is backwards and won't work. This is NOT true- it must simply be put on with the "spinner" part facing the nose of the plane. W/ stock motor & prop and a TP 1300 2 cell lipo I estimate mine was going over 55 mph- mighty fast and plenty of power. Even though I put some clay in the nose cone it was still slightly tail heavy, elevator was VERY sensitive. Killer little plane!!
ALSO- are these back in stock?? I definatly want a backup.
Bill Davenport
AMA 28141
flighttosky
Jun 06, 2004, 08:42 AM
congratulations, Bill!!
Today I fly F16 too, she also give me a incredible speed!!!
up to now , all stock is reserved by customers, if some stocks left, I can call you immediately
flighttosky
Jun 07, 2004, 01:23 PM
Now, You can buy one more wings set for your F16, it is not same with old version wings, it give your F16 more floating power and stability!!
just go my page to learn more (7.4 1900mah li-ion battery are ready too ):o
www.flytosky.net
bmizes
Jun 09, 2004, 12:55 PM
Edward (or anyone else who has finished their F-16),
I'm getting ready to start my build, and having read over the instructions, had the following questions:
1. The instructions say to use the double sided tape on the parts to stick the wings and horizontal stabilizers to the fuse. I'm a bit worried about using only tape to stick these on given the speed of this bird and the stresses that will be on these parts. Do you still recommend doing it this way, or should we go ahead and glue these as well for added safety?
2. For the 3 bottom fuselage parts, do you recommend just taping these in place or gluing some of them?
3. It looks like Flying Weasel had his CG at either 33 or 35mm ahead of the spar. What have you found to be the best CG location?
4. In post #32 that you made, it shows a wire connecting the 2 elevator pieces, presumably to make sure that both elevators move exactly the same. However, the instructions do not show anything about adding this extra wire piece. Should we add it or not?
5. If we are going to use the stock motor, are the included props the best thing to use, or can you recommend a GWS prop to substitute that might be better? If we use the stock prop, is it correct that it needs to be put on with the writing on the prop facing the front of the plane?
6. What kind of glue is included in the kit? Any reason not to just use foamsafe CA to speed up the build process?
Thanks for your help. I will get started as soon as I receive your response.
Barry
Flying Weasle
Jun 09, 2004, 04:08 PM
1 Do not worry about the sticky tape, it is more than adequate.
2 Glue the front and rear piece in, the middle piece is what allows you access to the electronics.
3 35 is best for me, you will have to play with it a little to find out on your bird.
4 it is a good idea to add it, if you do not have the elevators exactly right or one moves further than the other, you will be fighting it all the time.
5 You can use a 5043 GWS with an adapter and it should be fine. Yes, the given prop is a puller prop, it has to be modified to use as a pusher.
6 I didn't use the glue, i used 5 min epoxy and foam safe CA.
I did not say that the props would NOT work, i said they are puller props, which they are. And if you use them they have to be modified like you say to make them pushers.
badbill
Jun 09, 2004, 04:49 PM
I did not say that the props would NOT work, i said they are puller props, which they are. And if you use them they have to be modified like you say to make them pushers.
FW,
No mods are necessary to the stock prop, and it works great. Just make sure you put it on the shaft with the round "spinner" type portion towards the nose of the plane, and have the motor rotating correctly. IOW- the letters AlignRC" on the prop are towards the nose- the motor rotates clockwise, looking at it from the back.
The wire between the elevator halves is not needed, IMO. It is easy with a split pushrod of this type to get the two halves even.
The plane is a showstopper, even w/ the stock motor.
Bill Davenport
AMA 28141
LKC
Jun 09, 2004, 05:03 PM
I just receiver my kit Yesterday.
Everything arrived OK, besides a few nicks on the fuselages, probably from the motor being loose in shipping. I think it was taped down but came loose in the box. Edward, maybe use a couple extra pieces of tape, just to be sure. Otherwise it all looks good.
I test fitted a Kokam 1500-2S pack and it fits nicely. this will be my first power setup, only have 1 battery, so I may change to a Sp400, with a Apogee 830-3S pack. I have 3 of these packs, so shorter run time will not be a real concern. I have heard that it makes for a fast setup that draws around 7A with a 4x4 prop (or maybe 4x2.5). Can anyone confirm this ?? I might post it in the power forum... The Apogee 830's are rated to 9A continious, so i am hoping to stay under that.
I also brought some Testor paints, to do my own Camouflage paint job. I will test the paint, but does anyone know if they are safe on this foam (EPS) ??
Excited so far, looking forward to getting it in the air !!
Luke
flighttosky
Jun 09, 2004, 09:52 PM
Edward (or anyone else who has finished their F-16),
I'm getting ready to start my build, and having read over the instructions, had the following questions:
1. The instructions say to use the double sided tape on the parts to stick the wings and horizontal stabilizers to the fuse. I'm a bit worried about using only tape to stick these on given the speed of this bird and the stresses that will be on these parts. Do you still recommend doing it this way, or should we go ahead and glue these as well for added safety?
2. For the 3 bottom fuselage parts, do you recommend just taping these in place or gluing some of them?
3. It looks like Flying Weasel had his CG at either 33 or 35mm ahead of the spar. What have you found to be the best CG location?
4. In post #32 that you made, it shows a wire connecting the 2 elevator pieces, presumably to make sure that both elevators move exactly the same. However, the instructions do not show anything about adding this extra wire piece. Should we add it or not?
5. If we are going to use the stock motor, are the included props the best thing to use, or can you recommend a GWS prop to substitute that might be better? If we use the stock prop, is it correct that it needs to be put on with the writing on the prop facing the front of the plane?
6. What kind of glue is included in the kit? Any reason not to just use foamsafe CA to speed up the build process?
Thanks for your help. I will get started as soon as I receive your response.
Barry
Hi Barry
Happy to see you again!
Let me answer your questions.
1. I use double side tape to stick them also, you can see my video, no problem at all, even crash to earth too!! ha!! just go on!!
http://www.edwardling.com/flighttosky/video/F16_brushless.wmv
2. I recommand you glue head and tail part only, because you may have to remove middle part to repair or change servo, receive....etc, I just use magic tape and tape to fix it, you can see how can I do in my thread
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2220215&postcount=32
3. 35mm is the best position
4. yes, you can consider, I test it at last sunday, this method can give your F16 more easy to do vertical loop with even moment of elevators. you just use a pinao wire(thinner is better) to make a "L" at one end, and drill through the tail,(remember, don't block the motor position), and make another "L" shape at another end of wire, use tape to stick it!! if you have built GWS plane, you should know how to do that!
5.You can use stock motor with orginial prop too, my friend F16 is using it to fly to sky
his video is put on my site, http://www.edwardling.com/flighttosky/video/F16_brushed.wmv
Remember, the side which have text written on should face forward when you put it on motor.
if you want to use GWS prop, I recommand you can use 4025, I use it on himax motor too
6. The glue included in foamsale glue, you can use other type of foramsale CA too, I use Zproxy 30mins.
I hope you can build it perfect and fly it to sky successfully!!
if any question, please feel free to call me
Edward
flyttosky.net
bmizes
Jun 09, 2004, 10:06 PM
Thanks for the answers to all my questions. I hope to start building tomorrow. I'm off tomorrow and the weather is supposed to be lousy, so I should have some quality build time while the wife and kids are away.
Barry
flighttosky
Jun 09, 2004, 10:33 PM
Dear Luke
Thinks for your comment, I will stick motor with more tape to prevent loosing next time!
for your setting and painting, I haven't use it, so can't give comment, sorry.
for painting, I use Tamiya AS /TS spray paint, it is safe for foam painting
Don't use PS, it must damage foam
SOCADJE
Jun 12, 2004, 01:38 PM
Recieved my Planes Today...Both kits in fine Shape Thanks Edward..Flytosky F-16
Great kit and value...Will build 1st plane stock,
I really like the battery box setup....will keep my lipos very safe in a crash..I wish other kits had this feature, I think the battery box would be a great add on to all rc plane kits..because alot of lipo batteries get damaged in crashes...dented,punctured
bent..ect..Thanks again Edward for bringing a great kit and value to Market..I will report later on build and flying ....Don :)
supershuey
Jun 13, 2004, 01:44 AM
any idea when my 2 kits will be in stock
supershuey@msn.com
flighttosky
Jun 13, 2004, 10:18 PM
Hi Don, thanks for your comment, I hope you enjoy this F16 and fly it to sky!!
--------------------------------------------------------------
any idea when my 2 kits will be in stock
supershuey@msn.com
sorry supershuey, its should be arrived at next week.
Thanks
Edward
flytosky.net
bmizes
Jun 13, 2004, 10:48 PM
I haven't mounted the elevator servo permanently yet, because I wanted to see what any of the other builders had done. Did you mount the elevator servo as shown in figure 2-9 of the instructions or as shown at the bottom of the next page of the instructions where a space was cut out on the fuselage and the servo laid down flat so that it pulled perpendicular to the elevators. This seems like the better method to me since it will help prevent uneven movement between the two elevators. What have any of you done who have completed the model?
Thanks.
Barry
SOCADJE
Jun 14, 2004, 01:14 PM
I mounted mine the way english instructions note.....can change if uneven pull is affecting flight...my first build is done ..just waiting for wind to die down..:(
Flying Weasle
Jun 14, 2004, 05:21 PM
Barry,
If it was me i would lie it flat. Prevents lateral movement from servo arm. Seems to work pretty well this way.
bmizes
Jun 14, 2004, 11:39 PM
Larry,
So is that the way you mounted it, or is that the way you wish you had done it. One last thing, did you limit the control throw on either the ailerons or elevator, or just leave it at the maximum since they don't move a great distance in either direction?
Thanks.
Barry
SOCADJE
Jun 15, 2004, 12:10 AM
Just came home from flying f-16.. great plane cg set at 35mm..tracked straight and flew very well... Very fast on stock setup..at least fast enough for me right now..I need to lessen the throw on the ailerions..very rapid roll rate,at least until I paint the plane...hard to tell topside of plane at times when it's all white...all in all very happy
customer of flytosky f-16..by the way this thing floats in for landings... will post pics after paint applied
bmizes
Jun 15, 2004, 11:12 AM
In my previous post, I asked if you had to limit the control throw on either the ailerons or elevator, or just leave it at the maximum since they don't move a great distance in either direction. I realized I should also have asked if you needed any reflex (up elevator) in the elevator at launch or you just left the elevator at neutral when launching.
Thanks.
Barry
Flying Weasle
Jun 15, 2004, 12:38 PM
I put a little bit in it. If you have allot it will get tippy. I limited my throws on the elevator to 65% Full out on the ailerons. It might not look like they move much but, you don't need allot, especially on the elevators..
I did mount mine in the side fuse. Never did try it on the bottom. Also , watch for torque. I'm not sure about the stock setup but, with mine if i launced and hit full throttle it wanted to spin.
Good luck with it.
SOCADJE,
that is why none of my planes are military painted, Like flat gray, all of mine are bright yellow and white. I might be crazy but, i really enjoy getting below the tree line and still being able to get orientation correct.
otdl
Jun 18, 2004, 11:25 PM
Here is mine
Andrew
otdl
Jun 18, 2004, 11:28 PM
The quick release motor mount.
Andrew
otdl
Jun 19, 2004, 12:08 AM
Another removeable motor mount with better cooling and mounting hole for Jonson 250, Himax 2015 and MPJ 25/25-20.
Andrew
Flying Weasle
Jun 19, 2004, 12:12 AM
Very nice job! Love the paint. Good thinking on the QR motor mount also.
flighttosky
Jun 19, 2004, 08:23 AM
masterpiece!!! Cool Painting!!
I like your alieron and elevator control and quick release motor mount, how to buy/make it!!!
will you shot video!!!
otdl
Jun 19, 2004, 11:19 AM
Make it,
will try to take video, do you know any file size limit to post here ?
Andrew
supershuey
Jun 23, 2004, 11:53 AM
great pics
you get my payment ok flytosky
cheers
bmizes
Jun 25, 2004, 04:48 PM
My F-16 is about done (finally). With the stock motor and prop, and a 2s Kokam 1500 battery in the battery box, it looks like it will need about 20 grams of weight in the nose to balance at 35mm in front of the spar, assuming one is measuring the 35mm from the front of the spar, not the center or rear of the spar. Does that seem right? Has anyone else had to add nose weight, or are you using a bigger (heavier) battery? Hope to maiden her tomorrow if the wind is cooperative.
Barry
Flying Weasle
Jun 25, 2004, 05:25 PM
I think Edward at Flytosky.com had to add 20gr to his to balance it.
If you can move everything as far forward as possible, such as the receiver and battery. The 35mm should be measured from the CL of the spar.
Good Luck! :)
bmizes
Jul 01, 2004, 11:32 AM
I finally maidened my F-16 this morning. It did fly on the stock setup, but it was a bit tail heavy so I need to add a bit more nose weight before I finalize my opinion on it. The only thing I can say is that with the stock motor, stock prop, and a 2s Kokam 1500, it was sort of slow. It may fly faster once I get it balanced properly, but we'll have to see. Has anyone tried a different prop with stock motor? I'm just worried that a larger prop will pull too many amps for the stock motor, since the stock prop already pulls 10 amps at WOT. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Barry
CooLJ92
Jul 12, 2004, 03:59 PM
flytosky,
What adapter are you using to fit the 4025 GWS propeller to the F16? Where can I obtain one? I am planning to use the 4025 prop but cannot find an adapter for the prop.
Thank you.
Kind regards,
jj :cool:
CooLJ92
Jul 16, 2004, 01:30 PM
Here are some pictures of my completed F-16. I will try to maiden her during the weekend.
jj :cool:
lingkithung
Jul 16, 2004, 01:45 PM
CoolJ92, your F16 is very very beautiful!!!! Cool!!!
Adaptor is quite difficult to find in USA I think, if you can buy GWS product in US
you can try
GW/ADC001 ProP. adapter for other props.
http://www.gws.com.tw/english/product/other/replacement%20parts.htm
or you still can't find, I can help you to buy some in Hong Kong and post it to you
bmizes
Jul 16, 2004, 03:41 PM
For anyone that is using the Himax 2015-4100 with the GWS 4025 prop, what kind of amps are you drawing with that. I'm asking because I want to know if the CC Phoenix 10 is sufficient for this, or whether I need to have a Phoenix 25 for it.
Thanks.
Barry
lingkithung
Jul 17, 2004, 02:14 AM
Hi Barry
Amp draw is about 12A
I recommand you to use phoenix 25
Edward
flytosky.net
Flying Weasle
Jul 17, 2004, 03:36 AM
I'll be flying mine tomorrow. I have the E-flite Park 400 4200kv with a 4025 with 3s TP 1320 G2 on it. It's pretty darn fast!
Arbo
Jul 17, 2004, 03:42 AM
Here are some pictures of my completed F-16. I will try to maiden her during the weekend.
jj :cool:
How did you do the tiger graphic on the tail? Airbrush or decal?
Paul
Flying Weasle
Jul 17, 2004, 07:14 AM
It's a download off of Edwards website. They have quite a few to choose from.
www.flytosky.net
Go to the pic gallery, then to F-16 and they are at the bottom. Save them then print.
CoolJ, did you paint the bottom a different color from the top? When that thing gets 200 yards from ya it will be really hard to keep track of orientation, they are really fast.
Larry
flighttosky
Jul 17, 2004, 12:08 PM
I'll be flying mine tomorrow. I have the E-flite Park 400 4200kv with a 4025 with 3s TP 1320 G2 on it. It's pretty darn fast!
Cool!! I love this painting patten, if you have any video, please give us to watch!!
I use 1900mah 3s with himax 2015-4100, draw 12-14A about, and fly 9-10mins, do you like me??
Keith Buckner
Jul 17, 2004, 10:36 PM
Maidened my FTS 16 today.
Flying Weasel built and painted it to match his, displayed above. I have some more trim work to do on it, but it still yeilded three sucessful flights with no major glitches. I flew with the stock motor and was surprised with quick perforamnce of that setup. It felt great!
I am now upgrading to the same setup as Flying Weasel with a Himax 2025-4200 on 3s TP 1320s. His really SCREAMS! We were getting good temps of 115F-120F both motor and batts on his after exteneded flights.... real good for a 92F day!
bmizes
Jul 17, 2004, 11:53 PM
Larry or Edward,
Were you guys able to fit your 3s lipo packs in the plastic battery case, or did you have to remove the battery case to get the lipos to fit?
Barry
flighttosky
Jul 18, 2004, 12:08 AM
I just cut out tail part of a battery case and some part of fuselage to let it fit enough to carry 3s battery
CooLJ92
Jul 20, 2004, 11:30 AM
Flying Weasle,
Yes, I painted the bottom of my F-16 a different color than the top. I also put some highly visiable decals.
I flew mine this weekend and was really surprised on how fast this pusher is. I had a lot of fun with it. I didn't encounter any bad tendancies at all. Speed was good with the stock motor and prop. I will be upgrading later to brushless and Lithium Polymers.
The picture on the fin was downloaded from flytosky.net's website. Printed it and glued it on the fin. I couple of spectators at the park thought it was the real thing flying around. I would post a video clip, but currently don't own a camcorder. Sorry.
I'll keep you posted on any new develpments.
Have a good one and thanks for the information on the prop adaptors.
jj :cool:
flighttosky
Jul 21, 2004, 02:06 AM
New stock of F16 comming with new version wings arrived, left 4 only,
and also I got two more powerful STmodel 370 stock motor,
if you want to order it, contact me
flighttosky@yahoo.com.hk
www.flytosky.net
Flying Weasle
Jul 21, 2004, 09:32 AM
This is Keith B's FTS F-16 flying to sky into the sun.
Flying Weasle
Jul 21, 2004, 09:39 AM
I have no probs getting a 3s in mine. Didn't even cut out the box. I did have to trim the heat shrink off of the Kokam 1500 3s though. The TP 1320 3s fit in great with no mods at all.
Flying Weasle
Jul 25, 2004, 10:21 AM
Here are my newest mods on my newest FTS F-16. I went with dual control surfaces tied together. Mounted the servos on the wings and this gave me PLENTY of room inside the fuse.
bmizes
Jul 25, 2004, 10:47 AM
How many amps do you guys draw with the 2025-4200 on your 3s packs and the GWS 4025 prop?
Barry
flighttosky
Jul 25, 2004, 12:21 PM
oh, Flying Weasle , your second plane painting is very good, I love blue !! and how are about a preformance with your new design !?
flighttosky
Jul 25, 2004, 12:22 PM
How many amps do you guys draw with the 2025-4200 on your 3s packs and the GWS 4025 prop?
Barry
I guess it may be 13-14A is it correct!?
Flying Weasle
Jul 25, 2004, 12:23 PM
It flew pretty good. A bit twitchy but VERY responsive ,,, UNTIL i crashed it and blew it up. Oh the carnage!
I get 16A at 170w. Superfast, if it wasn't for the earth and that darn gravity.
Keith Buckner
Jul 25, 2004, 12:27 PM
Whew... I saw the crash...... and all I can say is best expressed with the immortal words of John Candy and Rick Moranis:
"OOOOH WEEEE! It blowed up good!!"
"Yeah!!... REEEEL GOOD!"
badbill
Jul 25, 2004, 12:32 PM
Correct me if I'm wrong, but on Weasle's setup, when the elevator moves down the ailerons move the same way, right? This would make them be fighting each other- Coupled ailerons - elevator such as on funfly or control line stunt ships have the elevators going down, ailerons up to make turns tighter. If they both go down they would somewhat cancel each other out? Or am I looking at his pushrods wrong?
Bill Davenport
AMA 28141
Flying Weasle
Jul 25, 2004, 12:56 PM
Nope, doesn't work like that. It works the same way a wing would. If you had the left side ail up and the elev down that would create a problem. When they are up, it deflects all air in that direction. In effect, giving more of a single control surface for air deflection.
badbill
Jul 25, 2004, 01:15 PM
Nope, doesn't work like that. It works the same way a wing would. If you had the left side ail up and the elev down that would create a problem. When they are up, it deflects all air in that direction. In effect, giving more of a single control surface for air deflection.
You must think I am talking about your aileron controls, and after re-reading my post I can see it is confusing. I'm not- I am talking elevator. In other words, what I am talking about it that when BOTH halves of the elevators go up, both ailerons should go DOWN. And vice versa. Ailerons will work correctly when hooked up as in your picture above, but if you apply up elevator it will move both halves of the elevators UP and both ailerons UP which is incorrect.
Whew.... make sense yet?
Bill
Flying Weasle
Jul 25, 2004, 01:45 PM
Na, i understood. Just think of it as a flying wing with only 2 control surfaces. It flies the same way. If the ail deflect up and the elev deflect down simultaneously , they would be fighting each other. You would get up and down deflection causing a stalemate, either that or a black hole.
Keith Buckner
Jul 25, 2004, 01:47 PM
You do not understand how he has it configured.
He has tied each independant Elevator surface to each independent Aerilon surface and is running Elevon controls from his radio, as you do on a wing (and as he explained earlier).
It flies great.. this mod has been done on several threads on this board, including the Wattage F-22 Raptor, and FW's SU-27 Flanker.
badbill
Jul 25, 2004, 02:05 PM
I actually do understand now, it is mixed electronicly as elevons rather than mechanicaly as I previously thought. This does not however change the fact that when up elevator is applied, the correct movement of the surfaces would be the elevators going UP and both ailerons going DOWN. This is extremely common knowledge, I have personally had 4 or 5 funfly planes set up this way. Don't take my word for it, ask around.
Bill
Keith Buckner
Jul 25, 2004, 02:18 PM
I'm not questioning your knowledge, at all. It still flies great this way, though.
Tight rolls.... VERY responsive. I can't really think of anything else to say.. just expressing how great it flies this way.
I'm doing the same mod to mine tonite.. as several others have done and expressed similar experiences of it flying GREAT this way.
I am simply stating how GREAT it flies with this mod. I was really impressed with how GREAT it responded and how tight the rolls were.
Again... I am not saying you are wrong.. you are surely correct and this mod, of course, does not work well... But.. man for something that doesn't work well, it sure works GREAT!
badbill
Jul 25, 2004, 02:21 PM
Keith, what I am saying has NOTHING to do with roll rate, or the aileron function!!!! PLEASE re-read that- It only has to do with the ELEVATOR function. It is widely known also that coupling elevator halves to move like ailerons will increase the roll rate. I know that, everyone knows that.
By the way, I thought he said it crashed?
Bill
Keith Buckner
Jul 25, 2004, 02:32 PM
It did crash.... into a THOUSAND PIECES!!!! :eek:
But To help put this in perspective, I'll share an exprience of mine:
One day while driving thru town the radiator on my van ruptured when I stopped to buy an ice cream cone, but I do not think the ice cream cone was the cause of the radiator rupturing. His crash was due to pilot error. Too low too fast.. too soon. I've seen planes crash that this mod has not performed on. If this mod was the only reason a plane would crash... it sure would be great for other pilots. :)
The plane also has EXCELLENT vertical... excellent.. perhaps this is due to the close proximity of the wing to the tail area, and your experience is with planes that have greater seperation between the tail area and the wing.
Again, I'm not questioning your position.. simply stating how well it climbs, flies, rolls...... and crashes. :)
Flying Weasle
Jul 25, 2004, 10:34 PM
Check out post #57 in this thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234617
Otdl has done sort of the same thing and it WORKS for him.
And here : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243669&highlight=f22 you can see the same thing is done to this F-22. And you only need to view the video to see that it WORKS CORRECTLY.
I mean, i could be wrong, but from what the video shows, up is up and down is down.
Fact is, THIS mod has been done very often and works.
And the crash was my fault. Like KB said, too low, too fast, too soon. :D
flighttosky
Jul 26, 2004, 10:00 PM
Start from Now, all Fast shipping will include free insurance service(USD$128 compensated amount) and tracking service without extra charge. So you can have more secure transportation service
For one F16 shipping cost:
Express Shipping to US : $19 (2-4days)
Normal Shipping to US: $14(7-10days)
zetex
Aug 02, 2004, 08:32 PM
flighttosky,
how do i order a couple of these f16 kits??? I live in the uk. so can you let me know how much inc fast shipping to the UK.
I have emailed you. lmk m8
Zetex
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