tim hooper
Dec 11, 2002, 01:00 AM
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<td width="50%" align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_10.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_10_t.jpg" border="2"></a></td>
<td width="50%" align="left"><strong>Specifications</strong>
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<li><strong>Type:</strong> Hotliner glider</li>
<li><strong>Wingspan:</strong> 55" / 1400mm</li>
<li><strong>Length:</strong> 33" / 850mm</li>
<li><strong>Kit weight:</strong> 13oz / 425g</li>
<li><strong>Flying weight:</strong> 47oz / 1280g</li>
<li><strong>Construction:</strong> Gel coat fiberglass fuselage. Pre-covered veneered foam wing. Balsa tail plane</li>
<li><strong>Wing section:</strong> 8% RG15</li>
<li><strong>Functions:</strong> Aileron, spoileron, elevator, throttle</li>
<li><strong>Power system:</strong> Kontronik Fun Drive 200 (400/42 motor, 4.5:1 gearbox, Smile 40-6-12 ESC)</li>
<li><strong>Prop:</strong> 12x8 Aeronaut blades</li>
<li><strong>Cells:</strong> 10xCP1300</li>
<li><strong>Receiver:</strong> GWS 8 channel</li>
<li><strong>Servos:</strong> Hitec HS-81MG (3)</li>
<li><strong>Manufacturer:</strong> <a href="http://www.fvk.de/Englisch/Index%20eng%202.html">FVK</a></li>
<li><strong>US distributor:</strong> <a href="http://www.aero-model.com/index.htm">Aero-model</a></li>
<li><strong>UK distributor:</strong> <a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=brian.Anderson&d=onyxnet.co.uk">Brian Anderson</a></li>
<li><strong>In-flight photos by:</strong> SMAC member, Mark Foster</li>
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<p><big>Return To Bandit Country!</p></big>
<blockquote>Here is a question for you. Have you ever chanced upon a hitherto unheard of model, and decided to yourself, "I have just got to get me one of those!" within 10 seconds of seeing it fly? Better than that, have you then bought the model not just once, or twice? How about being so impressed that you've bought the model no less than three times? No? I did!</blockquote>
<blockquote>My own "road to Damascus" moment occurred back in August 2001 at the Walsall Fly-in. I had attended with E Zoners Brian Cullen and Kev Mullarkey. In-between bouts of Zagi abuse, we would sit back and enjoy just watching everybody else flying. I barely noticed the gent carrying the powered glider to the flightline. Well, you wouldn't, would you? After all, a powered glider is a powered glider is a powered glider, isn't it? If you have seen one, you have seen 'em all, right?</blockquote>
<blockquote>The gent in question throttled up and launched his model. After accelerating horizontally for few seconds, he hauled back on the elevator stick and the model just tore vertically upwards, still accelerating! Within a few seconds, it was a speck, and within those very same seconds, my fate was sealed.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Yes, I'd heard of brushless motors and LMR (limited motor run) aeroplanes here on the E-Zone, but until then, I had never witnessed such a beast in the flesh. Now that I had, I just had to have one! Although I didn't get to meet the pilot in person, I was able to sneak a peek at his model and jot down a couple of notes.</blockquote>
<blockquote>So, just what was the package that made such a memorable effect on me? The airframe was an FVK Bandit2, the motor by Kontronik, and the motive power was courtesy of ten CP1300 cells. That sounded simple enough; however, when I got home, I rooted around on the Internet only to realize that this little lot, whilst giving generous performance, was going to need an equally generous wallet to sponsor it all. At around £450 for the entire package, this model was certainly going to cost a stack more dosh than the 540-powered gliders I'd been used to previously.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Nevertheless, Bandit #1 arrived in Oct 2001, and was flying within days of receiving the motor. Over the next six months, I flew and crashed this model repeatedly, until it just wouldn't fly anymore. Enter Bandit #2, which promptly had all the inner gubbins of its predecessor stuffed into it, and was pressed into service immediately. Its own forced-retirement in September 2002 was pretty much a consequence of spending a fortnight in a thorn tree four miles from the flying field. The Bandit caught a thermal and was at the limits of my vision when my attention was distracted by another model crashing nearby. Involuntarily, I glanced away, and when I looked back, the model had disappeared. Gone. Vanished.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Ever had that gut-churning sinking feeling when something goes horribly wrong? For over 20 minutes, my clubmates and I scoured the skies, but in vain. My only consolation was that I'd had the foresight to label every part of the model with a little label that read, "Reward" followed by my phone number. Even so, after two weeks hope was pretty thin, until the phone rang and a voice said, "Er…..hello….I've just found a model plane…." Within 15 minutes, I'd regained my baby and set about repairing the broken fuselage and graunched wing. The very next day, it flew again, just to prove a point I suppose. However, it looked pretty tatty, and I was concerned about my repairs to the wing.</blockquote>
<blockquote>When I contacted the UK importer, Brian Anderson, to order yet another, he suggested that I might be qualified to cobble up a bit of a kit review in the light of my expertise in Bandit building. I can never tell if Brian is being sarcastic.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Three Days Later The Box Arrived!</blockquote>
<p><big>So, Whaddya Get For The Money?</p></big>
<blockquote>The kit, as sent by Brian, arrives in a stout, plain cardboard box. Inside, amongst swathes of bubble wrap and acres of crumpled newspaper, I found bits in the following picture.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_35.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_35_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>What is blindingly obvious is the sheer quality of the parts supplied. For instance, a tail plane is normally just a slab of balsa, but not so here. Faultlessly pre-covered in yellow Oracover, it's pre-hinged to the white elevator with clear tape. What is really worth noting is that not only are the mounting bolt holes predrilled, but they're also bushed with short tubes to prevent crushing. Neat!</blockquote>
<blockquote>This attention to detail carries over to the fuselage. Flawlessly molded in white gel-coated fiberglass, it features carbon fiber tow reinforcement around the perimeter of the canopy and the wing seat. A plywood motor bulkhead is bonded in the nose, set to a couple of degrees down and side thrust, and is center drilled for the motor shaft. The holes for the front wing dowels are already drilled, whilst the rear bolt holes are not only drilled, but threaded too. Neatly routed out are cooling-air inlets in the nose, complimented by a single outlet behind the wing. On one side of the fin, there is a circular cutout to facilitate installation of the elevator servo.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_21.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_21_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Also included is a dinky black fiberglass cockpit canopy.</blockquote>
<blockquote>The real cherry, though, has to be the wing. It would be just too glib to dismiss the wing simply as "foam and veneer" when there is so much more to it than that. With an RG15 section of 8% thickness, it's designed to penetrate the air with distain. The two panels have fiberglass tubes embedded into the roots to accommodate the substantial joining rod.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_34.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_34_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>The alloy front dowels are matched by an alloy incidence peg, whilst further aft there are pre-bushed holes for the rear bolts. Moving outboard, there are circular wells for the servos (joined to the root by tunnels for the servo wires). The ailerons themselves are pre-hinged by the Oracover; yellow on top, purple, or blue underneath. The wingtips are the part of the model that receive the most comment; they have an upswept taper that ends in a virtually knife-edge. How these are made and covered is a mystery to me, but who cares when they're this good? There's even a nice red 'Bandit' sticker too.</blockquote>
<blockquote>This isn't to say that every thing is perfect however. There are a couple of items that could be improved; the supplied instructions need updating a little. (Parts of the instructions refer to the earlier Mk1 Bandit and could be a jot confusing.) Although, I hear that this is already being undertaken, just as soon as Mr. Anderson can tear himself away from the flying field for long enough!</blockquote>
<blockquote>Also included is a rudimentary hardware pack. Along with the essential wing and tail bolts are a couple of plastic clevises, aileron horns, and a small 1/2 hinge to operate the elevator. The dodgy horns weren't a problem, as Brian had thrown in a pair of very nifty, infinitely adjustable, brass aileron horns to use in place of plastic ones, whilst I binned the 1/2 hinge in favor of a heavier duty item. The clevises were replaced by metal ones.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_32.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_32_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_22.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_22_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Overall, considering the quality of the airframe parts, the asking price is a steal!</blockquote>
<p><big>Don't Just Stand There Gawping, Get Building!</p></big>
<blockquote>Well, it's not really building in the traditional balsa-bashing sense, more a case of fitting-out. It would be very feasible to start assembly straight after your porridge one morning and have the plane flying before the kids come home from school the same day. If, like me, you're just transferring the gear over from an existing airframe, then it could be even quicker. After all, the transmitter mixes are all dialed-in, and the servo arms already have the correct offsets.</blockquote>
<blockquote>I tackled the wing first, by brutally hacking the lugs off a pair of HS-81MG servos, and then encasing them in heatshrink. As supplied the servo-wells are simply circular routings, which will need enlarging to suit the servos used, not forgetting to allow for the movement of the arms as well. Some careful slicing of the veneer sees the well enlarged to suit. The next job is to remove all the foam within the well right back to the upper skin. This creates quite a potential weak spot in the wing structure. Recognizing this, the instructions emphasize the need for lining the well with either ply or glass cloth to maintain structural integrity (whatever that is). Equally vital is remembering to avoid the use of polyester resin, which will cheerfully eat the EPS foam core without any remorse whatsoever. So, make sure the resin is epoxy based, OK? Just make sure you don't block the channels for the servo wires either.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_29.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_29_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_28.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_28_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Having spliced and soldered extensions onto the servo wires, I gently removed the plastic plugs from the little metal connectors. Using a bit of heatshrink and a length of plastic rod, I threaded the extensions down the wing channels to holes drilled through the veneer near the root, where they were gently teased back into the open air and reunited with their plugs again. This was easier done than said!</blockquote>
<blockquote>Before hot gluing or epoxying the servos into the wells, it's as well to position the horns. Just how you'll achieve this will depend on your radio set-up, but it's as well to bear in mind that you'll need a lot more 'up' aileron than 'down', and I mean 'a lot'. (The ailerons on mine have about 4mm down travel, compared to 25mm 'up', taking the spoileron travel into account).</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_27.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_27_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_24.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_24_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>At this point, it might be worth relaying a bit of mild controversy from the Sailplanes forum; there's a school of thought that holds that nylon servo gears are preferable for our use, as they tend to have less inherent backlash, and therefore less control-surface slop than their tougher metal brethren do. On the other hand, I'll stay with the metal ones, considering the frequency with which I hurl my models into the local scenery.</blockquote>
<blockquote>The final job on the wing is to fit the aileron horns. Plumping for the snazzy brass ones, I drilled a 4.5mm hole through the aileron, perpendicular to the upper surface and as close to the hinge line as the top-hat nature of the sleeve would allow. Using a piece of stiff wire, I picked out some of the foam surrounding the hole to allow room for the epoxy to flow as I bonded the sleeve in place from above the assembly. I had previously shortened the sleeve to maximize the aileron movement available.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Metal linkages connect servos to horns, thus leaving me free to play with the transmitter mixes to my hearts content.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/stxl_13.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/stxl_13_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>A couple of final touches complete the wing; the very classy 'Bandit' sticker/decal/whatever is very self-adhesive, so you'll only get one shot at applying it. The servo fairings are vacuum formed and after trimming only need taping in place.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Fettling the fuselage is next on our agenda. My one and only brushless motor is my much-cherished Kontronik 400/42, allied to a 4.5:1 gearbox, and this is tamed by a Smile 40-6-12 ESC. This combo powered the previous two Bandits and was destined for Bandit #3 as well. The Bandit instructions recommend strengthening the firewall if using a powerful motor. Not sure if my motor qualifies as 'powerful', I didn't bother facing it with a PCB faceplate, although I did reinforce its joint to the fuselage with a little glass cloth. I was careful not to overdo it though. In the event of a crash, I'd far rather the firewall/motor assembly pop out rather than run the risk of bending the motor shaft. I've been there and done that.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_18.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_18_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>I also decided not to bother using detachable connectors between motor and ESC. After all, I'm not likely to separate them in the field, and they must be a source of potential unreliability anyway. Consequently, the motor wires were soldered directly to the ESC wires. It made sense to save a little space by not soldering them end-to-end, but to double the wires back on each other so they ran side-by-side instead. The ESC could then be installed alongside the motor, just far back enough to avoid blocking the cooling inlet, and not get in the way of the battery. The Kontronik motor is attached by three 2.6 mm screws passing through the firewall, and into the front face of the gearbox. These screws run very close to the centerline of the output shaft, and it's all too easy for their mounting holes to run into the firewall's center hole.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Given the motor on/motor off nature of this model, some owners have their transmitters configured so that the throttle is operated by a spring-loaded switch, thus leaving the usual throttle stick free to proportionally operate the spoilerons. I can certainly see the advantages of this set-up in a variably cambered thermal ship, but I'm guessing that the average Bandit will only have the spoilerons deployed on finals to slow and steepen the approach. Then again, you can always use the spoilerons to flee the clutches of those brick lifting thermals that we all know and love so well! The upshot is that I left the throttle on the big stick, and put the spoilerons on the flap switch of my RD6000 transmitter.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Now that the motor is installed, I'd strongly resist the temptation to fit the prop before you finish the radio installation. That little lump may be the same size of a Speed 400 tin can, but with 40 amps coursing through it, I don't think a stray finger would be much of a match for the 12x8 prop if the motor started up by mistake.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_31.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_31_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>As supplied the black canopy is a perfect fit, so no trimming is needed, but you're left to sort out your own method of attaching it. Given that you'll need access to the batteries after every flight (either to remove them or just to recharge them), I settled on the common method of using a bit of piano wire epoxied to the inside of the canopy, abetted by a scrap of ply. The canopy is slid into position on the fuselage, and in the event of a crash, the wire will deform, allowing the canopy to be pushed out of the way by the rapidly departing battery pack.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_15.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_15_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>With the sharp end complete, now we can wander aft to have a gander at the tail plane. The instructions state that a 9-gram servo will suffice for the elevator. Indeed, on my first Bandit, I followed the guidelines and flew the model quite successfully. Eventually though, a particularly hard landing stripped those minute nylon gears, and I replaced the servo with yet another "lugless" HS-81MG. Anyway, that tiny looking elevator must displace a fair amount of air when at speed.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_20.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_20_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_19.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_19_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>The elevator horn is simply half of a pin-type hinge, cut down and epoxied into a slot cut into the bottom of the elevator itself. As mentioned earlier, I used a larger item than supplied. The servo is gently manipulated into the circular hole in the base of the fin and glued in place. A small balsa block keeps it snug, and provides clearance for the servo arm and pushrod. A metal clevis and 2mm pushrod transmit the servo's movement to the top of the fin. On the way, you'll probably need to punch a hole through the fin's internal foam rib. A slot is provided for the pushrod to exit the fin, but, like me, you may need to enlarge this a bit. The top of the pushrod is soldered to a piece of bent wire the same gauge as the hole in the hinge/horn/thing. Because soldering isn't my forte, I hid the resulting mess with a little bit red heatshrink.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Now it's time to decide how to mount the battery pack. The instructions advise the use of a conventional sloping ply tray; in case of a crash, the battery should propel itself out of the canopy aperture, thereby to avoid crushing the ESC and motor. However, in a series of carefully monitored scientific experiments, I've deduced that in the event of a vertical arrival, the ply tray is quite likely to fragment into teeny-weeny pieces as the battery forgets that the tray exists. Furthermore, I reckon that the areas of contact between tray and fuselage often needlessly exacerbate the crashing stresses transmitted to the fuselage skin. So what are we to do?</blockquote>
<blockquote>Well, there's an opposing philosophy that holds that if a plywood tray is liable to go to pieces under stress, then why not dispense with it altogether and simply and simply Velcro the battery to the fuselage floor? At least then, the battery's weight is transferred over a larger area, than just by the edges of a ply tray.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Now then, just to add some more confusion, I've stumbled on another possible solution, which I read in a back issue of a modeling comic. I'd love to know who thought of this. The theory goes thus. How about combining the battery-ejecting properties of a tray with the load-spreading advantages of floor mounting? How about using a ply tray, but mounting it so that it doesn't create any localized stresses by sitting it on a large wedge of shock-absorbing EPP foam?</blockquote>
<blockquote>It sounded good to me! So, using a chunk of white EPP foam cut to a wedge shape, I epoxied a 1.5mm ply plate to it, large enough to accept not only the battery, but also to have the receiver tie-wrapped to the rear of it.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_16.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_16_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>With the completed Bandit suspended by a thin cord tied around the wing joiner, the correct CG position is determined by juggling the battery/tray back and forward until the model balances. The position is marked, and then the EPP wedge is epoxied to the bottom of the fuselage. That done, small pieces of EPP are hot-glued to the inside of the fuselage to prevent battery leaving the tray in any direction other than forwards. Between the rear of the battery and the receiver, there's a block of balsa to act as a backstop.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_14.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_14_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>At the time of writing, I've not yet had the chance to crash test this system, but I'm sure that a suitable opportunity will soon present itself.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_12.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_12_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_11.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_11_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>That's pretty much it as regards the build, except to add that I also built a made-to-measure flight case from 4mm plywood, with padded partitions to keep all the airframe parts separate. Several of my models have similar boxes; I have a very small car, and the boxes stack neatly on the shelf behind the driver's seat. The cases also double-up as coffins so, when necessary, I can smuggle any wreckage past Mrs. H, and out to the shed for disposal or repair.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_13.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_13_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<p><big>Pretty Is As Pretty Does</p></big>
<blockquote>Well, it's no good just sitting there, is it? Therefore, we'd best go and fly it.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/029_26.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/029_26_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/034_31.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/034_31_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/031_28.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/031_28_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>After a final check on the CG and control surface throws, peak the cells, we head off to the field and repeat the checks again! On my first two Bandits, I asked another club member to make the maiden launch for me, but by the time I got to Bandit #3, I was pretty cocky and confident that all would be well.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/007_4.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/007_4_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_9.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_9_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>There's no need for a sprint'n'hurl technique with this amount of power on tap. Throttle up, take a step, and firmly shove the model forwards. Let it accelerate away for a second or so, before pulling a bit of up elevator in. If this is your first hot model, you'll probably stand open-mouthed as you watch the rear of the Bandit rip vertically upwards. At this point, you may overhear your glo-flying clubmates use some very rude words indeed! (Look at that **** climb!")</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/005_dr.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/005_dr_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/039_dr.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/039_dr_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Don't climb too high on this first flight. Throttle off and explore how this thing glides; it glides fast and flat. Flick it inverted and hold a little down elevator. It's almost as good as it is the right way up. By now, you'll be unable to resist the temptation any longer, so put the nose down, and bring it on a diving pass past yourself. Listen to that howling whistle. It'll be a blur as it flashes past you and your spell bound clubmates, so pick the nose up. As it loses a little momentum, hit the power again. I get eight to ten climbs on one charge, which equates to long flight times.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/020_dr.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/020_dr_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/033_dr.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/033_dr_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Now it is time to try those spoilerons. Do this at height so you won't suffer any nasty surprises caused by unequal throws or, as in my case, too much elevator mixed-in. On my first attempt at using them, the model immediately bunted because of the excessive down force. So, be prepared to make your first landing "clean". The approach will be long, flat, and swift. Don't worry about flaring too much, just fly the model onto the ground. With any luck though, you'll be able to use the spoilerons on finals, just as the model crosses the threshold. Just keep the model level, and let it sink firmly onto the strip. Now stop grinning, and pour yourself a coffee while the adrenaline level subsides.</blockquote>
<blockquote>After a few familiarization flights, you'll find that the glide speed can be varied with a few clicks of elevator trim. Although it's no match for a dedicated thermal ship, you might be surprised to find the Bandit going up as it catches a passing thermal.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Here is one little trick to impress your friends. Put it in vertical rolling climbs going up, followed by vertical rolling dives. Just don't leave the pullout too late.</blockquote>
<p><big>So?</p></big>
<blockquote>Well then, would I recommend the FVK bandit? Go on and take a guess!</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/025_22.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/025_22_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" width="80%" bgcolor="#D5EAFF">
<tr>
<td width="50%" align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_10.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_10_t.jpg" border="2"></a></td>
<td width="50%" align="left"><strong>Specifications</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Type:</strong> Hotliner glider</li>
<li><strong>Wingspan:</strong> 55" / 1400mm</li>
<li><strong>Length:</strong> 33" / 850mm</li>
<li><strong>Kit weight:</strong> 13oz / 425g</li>
<li><strong>Flying weight:</strong> 47oz / 1280g</li>
<li><strong>Construction:</strong> Gel coat fiberglass fuselage. Pre-covered veneered foam wing. Balsa tail plane</li>
<li><strong>Wing section:</strong> 8% RG15</li>
<li><strong>Functions:</strong> Aileron, spoileron, elevator, throttle</li>
<li><strong>Power system:</strong> Kontronik Fun Drive 200 (400/42 motor, 4.5:1 gearbox, Smile 40-6-12 ESC)</li>
<li><strong>Prop:</strong> 12x8 Aeronaut blades</li>
<li><strong>Cells:</strong> 10xCP1300</li>
<li><strong>Receiver:</strong> GWS 8 channel</li>
<li><strong>Servos:</strong> Hitec HS-81MG (3)</li>
<li><strong>Manufacturer:</strong> <a href="http://www.fvk.de/Englisch/Index%20eng%202.html">FVK</a></li>
<li><strong>US distributor:</strong> <a href="http://www.aero-model.com/index.htm">Aero-model</a></li>
<li><strong>UK distributor:</strong> <a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=brian.Anderson&d=onyxnet.co.uk">Brian Anderson</a></li>
<li><strong>In-flight photos by:</strong> SMAC member, Mark Foster</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</div>
<p><big>Return To Bandit Country!</p></big>
<blockquote>Here is a question for you. Have you ever chanced upon a hitherto unheard of model, and decided to yourself, "I have just got to get me one of those!" within 10 seconds of seeing it fly? Better than that, have you then bought the model not just once, or twice? How about being so impressed that you've bought the model no less than three times? No? I did!</blockquote>
<blockquote>My own "road to Damascus" moment occurred back in August 2001 at the Walsall Fly-in. I had attended with E Zoners Brian Cullen and Kev Mullarkey. In-between bouts of Zagi abuse, we would sit back and enjoy just watching everybody else flying. I barely noticed the gent carrying the powered glider to the flightline. Well, you wouldn't, would you? After all, a powered glider is a powered glider is a powered glider, isn't it? If you have seen one, you have seen 'em all, right?</blockquote>
<blockquote>The gent in question throttled up and launched his model. After accelerating horizontally for few seconds, he hauled back on the elevator stick and the model just tore vertically upwards, still accelerating! Within a few seconds, it was a speck, and within those very same seconds, my fate was sealed.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Yes, I'd heard of brushless motors and LMR (limited motor run) aeroplanes here on the E-Zone, but until then, I had never witnessed such a beast in the flesh. Now that I had, I just had to have one! Although I didn't get to meet the pilot in person, I was able to sneak a peek at his model and jot down a couple of notes.</blockquote>
<blockquote>So, just what was the package that made such a memorable effect on me? The airframe was an FVK Bandit2, the motor by Kontronik, and the motive power was courtesy of ten CP1300 cells. That sounded simple enough; however, when I got home, I rooted around on the Internet only to realize that this little lot, whilst giving generous performance, was going to need an equally generous wallet to sponsor it all. At around £450 for the entire package, this model was certainly going to cost a stack more dosh than the 540-powered gliders I'd been used to previously.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Nevertheless, Bandit #1 arrived in Oct 2001, and was flying within days of receiving the motor. Over the next six months, I flew and crashed this model repeatedly, until it just wouldn't fly anymore. Enter Bandit #2, which promptly had all the inner gubbins of its predecessor stuffed into it, and was pressed into service immediately. Its own forced-retirement in September 2002 was pretty much a consequence of spending a fortnight in a thorn tree four miles from the flying field. The Bandit caught a thermal and was at the limits of my vision when my attention was distracted by another model crashing nearby. Involuntarily, I glanced away, and when I looked back, the model had disappeared. Gone. Vanished.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Ever had that gut-churning sinking feeling when something goes horribly wrong? For over 20 minutes, my clubmates and I scoured the skies, but in vain. My only consolation was that I'd had the foresight to label every part of the model with a little label that read, "Reward" followed by my phone number. Even so, after two weeks hope was pretty thin, until the phone rang and a voice said, "Er…..hello….I've just found a model plane…." Within 15 minutes, I'd regained my baby and set about repairing the broken fuselage and graunched wing. The very next day, it flew again, just to prove a point I suppose. However, it looked pretty tatty, and I was concerned about my repairs to the wing.</blockquote>
<blockquote>When I contacted the UK importer, Brian Anderson, to order yet another, he suggested that I might be qualified to cobble up a bit of a kit review in the light of my expertise in Bandit building. I can never tell if Brian is being sarcastic.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Three Days Later The Box Arrived!</blockquote>
<p><big>So, Whaddya Get For The Money?</p></big>
<blockquote>The kit, as sent by Brian, arrives in a stout, plain cardboard box. Inside, amongst swathes of bubble wrap and acres of crumpled newspaper, I found bits in the following picture.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_35.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_35_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>What is blindingly obvious is the sheer quality of the parts supplied. For instance, a tail plane is normally just a slab of balsa, but not so here. Faultlessly pre-covered in yellow Oracover, it's pre-hinged to the white elevator with clear tape. What is really worth noting is that not only are the mounting bolt holes predrilled, but they're also bushed with short tubes to prevent crushing. Neat!</blockquote>
<blockquote>This attention to detail carries over to the fuselage. Flawlessly molded in white gel-coated fiberglass, it features carbon fiber tow reinforcement around the perimeter of the canopy and the wing seat. A plywood motor bulkhead is bonded in the nose, set to a couple of degrees down and side thrust, and is center drilled for the motor shaft. The holes for the front wing dowels are already drilled, whilst the rear bolt holes are not only drilled, but threaded too. Neatly routed out are cooling-air inlets in the nose, complimented by a single outlet behind the wing. On one side of the fin, there is a circular cutout to facilitate installation of the elevator servo.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_21.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_21_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Also included is a dinky black fiberglass cockpit canopy.</blockquote>
<blockquote>The real cherry, though, has to be the wing. It would be just too glib to dismiss the wing simply as "foam and veneer" when there is so much more to it than that. With an RG15 section of 8% thickness, it's designed to penetrate the air with distain. The two panels have fiberglass tubes embedded into the roots to accommodate the substantial joining rod.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_34.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_34_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>The alloy front dowels are matched by an alloy incidence peg, whilst further aft there are pre-bushed holes for the rear bolts. Moving outboard, there are circular wells for the servos (joined to the root by tunnels for the servo wires). The ailerons themselves are pre-hinged by the Oracover; yellow on top, purple, or blue underneath. The wingtips are the part of the model that receive the most comment; they have an upswept taper that ends in a virtually knife-edge. How these are made and covered is a mystery to me, but who cares when they're this good? There's even a nice red 'Bandit' sticker too.</blockquote>
<blockquote>This isn't to say that every thing is perfect however. There are a couple of items that could be improved; the supplied instructions need updating a little. (Parts of the instructions refer to the earlier Mk1 Bandit and could be a jot confusing.) Although, I hear that this is already being undertaken, just as soon as Mr. Anderson can tear himself away from the flying field for long enough!</blockquote>
<blockquote>Also included is a rudimentary hardware pack. Along with the essential wing and tail bolts are a couple of plastic clevises, aileron horns, and a small 1/2 hinge to operate the elevator. The dodgy horns weren't a problem, as Brian had thrown in a pair of very nifty, infinitely adjustable, brass aileron horns to use in place of plastic ones, whilst I binned the 1/2 hinge in favor of a heavier duty item. The clevises were replaced by metal ones.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_32.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_32_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_22.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_22_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Overall, considering the quality of the airframe parts, the asking price is a steal!</blockquote>
<p><big>Don't Just Stand There Gawping, Get Building!</p></big>
<blockquote>Well, it's not really building in the traditional balsa-bashing sense, more a case of fitting-out. It would be very feasible to start assembly straight after your porridge one morning and have the plane flying before the kids come home from school the same day. If, like me, you're just transferring the gear over from an existing airframe, then it could be even quicker. After all, the transmitter mixes are all dialed-in, and the servo arms already have the correct offsets.</blockquote>
<blockquote>I tackled the wing first, by brutally hacking the lugs off a pair of HS-81MG servos, and then encasing them in heatshrink. As supplied the servo-wells are simply circular routings, which will need enlarging to suit the servos used, not forgetting to allow for the movement of the arms as well. Some careful slicing of the veneer sees the well enlarged to suit. The next job is to remove all the foam within the well right back to the upper skin. This creates quite a potential weak spot in the wing structure. Recognizing this, the instructions emphasize the need for lining the well with either ply or glass cloth to maintain structural integrity (whatever that is). Equally vital is remembering to avoid the use of polyester resin, which will cheerfully eat the EPS foam core without any remorse whatsoever. So, make sure the resin is epoxy based, OK? Just make sure you don't block the channels for the servo wires either.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_29.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_29_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_28.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_28_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Having spliced and soldered extensions onto the servo wires, I gently removed the plastic plugs from the little metal connectors. Using a bit of heatshrink and a length of plastic rod, I threaded the extensions down the wing channels to holes drilled through the veneer near the root, where they were gently teased back into the open air and reunited with their plugs again. This was easier done than said!</blockquote>
<blockquote>Before hot gluing or epoxying the servos into the wells, it's as well to position the horns. Just how you'll achieve this will depend on your radio set-up, but it's as well to bear in mind that you'll need a lot more 'up' aileron than 'down', and I mean 'a lot'. (The ailerons on mine have about 4mm down travel, compared to 25mm 'up', taking the spoileron travel into account).</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_27.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_27_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_24.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_24_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>At this point, it might be worth relaying a bit of mild controversy from the Sailplanes forum; there's a school of thought that holds that nylon servo gears are preferable for our use, as they tend to have less inherent backlash, and therefore less control-surface slop than their tougher metal brethren do. On the other hand, I'll stay with the metal ones, considering the frequency with which I hurl my models into the local scenery.</blockquote>
<blockquote>The final job on the wing is to fit the aileron horns. Plumping for the snazzy brass ones, I drilled a 4.5mm hole through the aileron, perpendicular to the upper surface and as close to the hinge line as the top-hat nature of the sleeve would allow. Using a piece of stiff wire, I picked out some of the foam surrounding the hole to allow room for the epoxy to flow as I bonded the sleeve in place from above the assembly. I had previously shortened the sleeve to maximize the aileron movement available.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Metal linkages connect servos to horns, thus leaving me free to play with the transmitter mixes to my hearts content.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/stxl_13.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/stxl_13_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>A couple of final touches complete the wing; the very classy 'Bandit' sticker/decal/whatever is very self-adhesive, so you'll only get one shot at applying it. The servo fairings are vacuum formed and after trimming only need taping in place.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Fettling the fuselage is next on our agenda. My one and only brushless motor is my much-cherished Kontronik 400/42, allied to a 4.5:1 gearbox, and this is tamed by a Smile 40-6-12 ESC. This combo powered the previous two Bandits and was destined for Bandit #3 as well. The Bandit instructions recommend strengthening the firewall if using a powerful motor. Not sure if my motor qualifies as 'powerful', I didn't bother facing it with a PCB faceplate, although I did reinforce its joint to the fuselage with a little glass cloth. I was careful not to overdo it though. In the event of a crash, I'd far rather the firewall/motor assembly pop out rather than run the risk of bending the motor shaft. I've been there and done that.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_18.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_18_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>I also decided not to bother using detachable connectors between motor and ESC. After all, I'm not likely to separate them in the field, and they must be a source of potential unreliability anyway. Consequently, the motor wires were soldered directly to the ESC wires. It made sense to save a little space by not soldering them end-to-end, but to double the wires back on each other so they ran side-by-side instead. The ESC could then be installed alongside the motor, just far back enough to avoid blocking the cooling inlet, and not get in the way of the battery. The Kontronik motor is attached by three 2.6 mm screws passing through the firewall, and into the front face of the gearbox. These screws run very close to the centerline of the output shaft, and it's all too easy for their mounting holes to run into the firewall's center hole.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Given the motor on/motor off nature of this model, some owners have their transmitters configured so that the throttle is operated by a spring-loaded switch, thus leaving the usual throttle stick free to proportionally operate the spoilerons. I can certainly see the advantages of this set-up in a variably cambered thermal ship, but I'm guessing that the average Bandit will only have the spoilerons deployed on finals to slow and steepen the approach. Then again, you can always use the spoilerons to flee the clutches of those brick lifting thermals that we all know and love so well! The upshot is that I left the throttle on the big stick, and put the spoilerons on the flap switch of my RD6000 transmitter.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Now that the motor is installed, I'd strongly resist the temptation to fit the prop before you finish the radio installation. That little lump may be the same size of a Speed 400 tin can, but with 40 amps coursing through it, I don't think a stray finger would be much of a match for the 12x8 prop if the motor started up by mistake.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_31.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_31_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>As supplied the black canopy is a perfect fit, so no trimming is needed, but you're left to sort out your own method of attaching it. Given that you'll need access to the batteries after every flight (either to remove them or just to recharge them), I settled on the common method of using a bit of piano wire epoxied to the inside of the canopy, abetted by a scrap of ply. The canopy is slid into position on the fuselage, and in the event of a crash, the wire will deform, allowing the canopy to be pushed out of the way by the rapidly departing battery pack.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_15.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_15_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>With the sharp end complete, now we can wander aft to have a gander at the tail plane. The instructions state that a 9-gram servo will suffice for the elevator. Indeed, on my first Bandit, I followed the guidelines and flew the model quite successfully. Eventually though, a particularly hard landing stripped those minute nylon gears, and I replaced the servo with yet another "lugless" HS-81MG. Anyway, that tiny looking elevator must displace a fair amount of air when at speed.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_20.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_20_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_19.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_19_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>The elevator horn is simply half of a pin-type hinge, cut down and epoxied into a slot cut into the bottom of the elevator itself. As mentioned earlier, I used a larger item than supplied. The servo is gently manipulated into the circular hole in the base of the fin and glued in place. A small balsa block keeps it snug, and provides clearance for the servo arm and pushrod. A metal clevis and 2mm pushrod transmit the servo's movement to the top of the fin. On the way, you'll probably need to punch a hole through the fin's internal foam rib. A slot is provided for the pushrod to exit the fin, but, like me, you may need to enlarge this a bit. The top of the pushrod is soldered to a piece of bent wire the same gauge as the hole in the hinge/horn/thing. Because soldering isn't my forte, I hid the resulting mess with a little bit red heatshrink.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Now it's time to decide how to mount the battery pack. The instructions advise the use of a conventional sloping ply tray; in case of a crash, the battery should propel itself out of the canopy aperture, thereby to avoid crushing the ESC and motor. However, in a series of carefully monitored scientific experiments, I've deduced that in the event of a vertical arrival, the ply tray is quite likely to fragment into teeny-weeny pieces as the battery forgets that the tray exists. Furthermore, I reckon that the areas of contact between tray and fuselage often needlessly exacerbate the crashing stresses transmitted to the fuselage skin. So what are we to do?</blockquote>
<blockquote>Well, there's an opposing philosophy that holds that if a plywood tray is liable to go to pieces under stress, then why not dispense with it altogether and simply and simply Velcro the battery to the fuselage floor? At least then, the battery's weight is transferred over a larger area, than just by the edges of a ply tray.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Now then, just to add some more confusion, I've stumbled on another possible solution, which I read in a back issue of a modeling comic. I'd love to know who thought of this. The theory goes thus. How about combining the battery-ejecting properties of a tray with the load-spreading advantages of floor mounting? How about using a ply tray, but mounting it so that it doesn't create any localized stresses by sitting it on a large wedge of shock-absorbing EPP foam?</blockquote>
<blockquote>It sounded good to me! So, using a chunk of white EPP foam cut to a wedge shape, I epoxied a 1.5mm ply plate to it, large enough to accept not only the battery, but also to have the receiver tie-wrapped to the rear of it.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_16.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_16_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>With the completed Bandit suspended by a thin cord tied around the wing joiner, the correct CG position is determined by juggling the battery/tray back and forward until the model balances. The position is marked, and then the EPP wedge is epoxied to the bottom of the fuselage. That done, small pieces of EPP are hot-glued to the inside of the fuselage to prevent battery leaving the tray in any direction other than forwards. Between the rear of the battery and the receiver, there's a block of balsa to act as a backstop.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_14.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_14_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>At the time of writing, I've not yet had the chance to crash test this system, but I'm sure that a suitable opportunity will soon present itself.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_12.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_12_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_11.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_11_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>That's pretty much it as regards the build, except to add that I also built a made-to-measure flight case from 4mm plywood, with padded partitions to keep all the airframe parts separate. Several of my models have similar boxes; I have a very small car, and the boxes stack neatly on the shelf behind the driver's seat. The cases also double-up as coffins so, when necessary, I can smuggle any wreckage past Mrs. H, and out to the shed for disposal or repair.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_13.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_13_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<p><big>Pretty Is As Pretty Does</p></big>
<blockquote>Well, it's no good just sitting there, is it? Therefore, we'd best go and fly it.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/029_26.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/029_26_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/034_31.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/034_31_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/031_28.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/031_28_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>After a final check on the CG and control surface throws, peak the cells, we head off to the field and repeat the checks again! On my first two Bandits, I asked another club member to make the maiden launch for me, but by the time I got to Bandit #3, I was pretty cocky and confident that all would be well.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/007_4.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/007_4_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_9.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/ban3_9_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>There's no need for a sprint'n'hurl technique with this amount of power on tap. Throttle up, take a step, and firmly shove the model forwards. Let it accelerate away for a second or so, before pulling a bit of up elevator in. If this is your first hot model, you'll probably stand open-mouthed as you watch the rear of the Bandit rip vertically upwards. At this point, you may overhear your glo-flying clubmates use some very rude words indeed! (Look at that **** climb!")</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/005_dr.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/005_dr_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/039_dr.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/039_dr_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Don't climb too high on this first flight. Throttle off and explore how this thing glides; it glides fast and flat. Flick it inverted and hold a little down elevator. It's almost as good as it is the right way up. By now, you'll be unable to resist the temptation any longer, so put the nose down, and bring it on a diving pass past yourself. Listen to that howling whistle. It'll be a blur as it flashes past you and your spell bound clubmates, so pick the nose up. As it loses a little momentum, hit the power again. I get eight to ten climbs on one charge, which equates to long flight times.</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/020_dr.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/020_dr_t.jpg" border="2"></a> <a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/033_dr.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/033_dr_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>
<blockquote>Now it is time to try those spoilerons. Do this at height so you won't suffer any nasty surprises caused by unequal throws or, as in my case, too much elevator mixed-in. On my first attempt at using them, the model immediately bunted because of the excessive down force. So, be prepared to make your first landing "clean". The approach will be long, flat, and swift. Don't worry about flaring too much, just fly the model onto the ground. With any luck though, you'll be able to use the spoilerons on finals, just as the model crosses the threshold. Just keep the model level, and let it sink firmly onto the strip. Now stop grinning, and pour yourself a coffee while the adrenaline level subsides.</blockquote>
<blockquote>After a few familiarization flights, you'll find that the glide speed can be varied with a few clicks of elevator trim. Although it's no match for a dedicated thermal ship, you might be surprised to find the Bandit going up as it catches a passing thermal.</blockquote>
<blockquote>Here is one little trick to impress your friends. Put it in vertical rolling climbs going up, followed by vertical rolling dives. Just don't leave the pullout too late.</blockquote>
<p><big>So?</p></big>
<blockquote>Well then, would I recommend the FVK bandit? Go on and take a guess!</blockquote>
<p align="center"><a href="/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/025_22.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2002/dec/bandit/025_22_t.jpg" border="2"></a></p>