100" Alcyone kit-Need building tips

[target]

Hello All,

I'm new to TD, I've never winch launched, and I have a NIB 100" Alcyone kit (built up fuse) headed my way.

I'm looking for building tips from the TD pros to help me.
I'm quite an accomplised slope flyer, with many composite and built up ships, so dorked landings should not be an issue.
I will be joining the local TD club, and will have access twice a month to a winch, and should get some advice on the first linch launches.

I'm a fairly good builder, and have a feather cut, and vacuum bag set up, and have bagged 4 sets of wings so far.

So what, if any, mods should I make to the original design. I plan on either 5 or 6 servos in my installation, and was thinking of using IRD's in the wing.

Thanks for the Advice,
Target

[shoe]

Hey target,

I used to fly the open class version of the Alcyone (121" wingspan), still have it in fact. Mine has the glass fuse though, very tough.

This plane is a very nice handling ship and it can float. The balsa sheeted wing is a little bendy so you might consider beefing up the spar with carbon. It's pretty tough though. I'd definately go with the 4 servo wing, I did mine with the flap servo in the fuse then switched to the 4 servo wing later.

You picked a very easy ship to learn to thermal with. Good luck.

[Tony D.]

Hi Target,

here is a reply I sent to ejett when he posted about his 2-metre Alcyone.

A clubmate built and flies the Standard class Alcyone and these tips apply to it as well.

It really is an excellent thermal ship but don't get to far downwind with it as penetration is not it's forte'.

Keep the tail lite!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I built an Alcyone for a friend a few years ago, it is a very sweet flyer, but you need to keep it light. It will really suffer with too much weight.

I assume that your kit is of the geodetic fuselage type? Make sure your joints in the boom are as perfect as you can make them as this was a failure point in a hard landing.

In the kit that I built the stab was supplied with 1/16" balsa sheeting but I subbed 1/32" with no problem and saved a few grams.

The wing in the kit I built included some 3oz. glass for reinforcing the ailerons but IMO this is heavier than needed and you can easily get away with 1.4oz at 45 degree bias.

Are you going with the stock radio setup using the pushrods for the ailerons or are you going to use seperate aileron servos? The stock setup is finiky but it is lighter than seperate servos.

When you install the pull-pull on the rudder and stab you can substitube plastic tubing for the metal tubing supplied and save some nose weight. The rocker supplied with the stab is plywood and it is a good idea to soak the holes for the pull-pull with some CA to toughen them up.

When you sand the tip panels for joining to the main wing panels be careful of the angle you sand in, there is not really any room for error on them.

If you build the Alcyone per the plan you will easily be able to handlaunch it to spec out, it will also take a hefty winch launch and is a thermal machine.

Anything else I can help you with let me know.


T.D.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[target]

T.D.
I'm sorry for not mentioning that I'd already done a search, and read that same thread on the 2M Alcyone.
But, now that I have your interest, what do you think about a stretched second wing, done in the V-bag, with a different airfoil?
What airfoil would be your recommendation?

Thanks for your thoughts,
Target

[target]

Shoe-
Whats up? How's Y.a.h.b. doing?
Thanks for your input; these same questions apply to you, of course.

Thanks, Target

[Tony D.]

Hi Target,

IMO you would do well to build the Alcyone stock, get some thermal chops and then build a 130" Aegea wing and either use the Alcyone fuselage or buy a Mantis fuse.

If you use wing servos in the Alcyone you can drop them into the Aegea/Mantis and save some dough.

------------------------------------------
The wing plans are here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Allegro-Lite/files/Aegea-3m/

-------------------------------------------

Lots of information on spars etc. here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Allegro-Lite/

--------------------------------------------

If you don't want to cut cores Les Horvath will cut a set for you:

www.compufoamcore.com

--------------------------------------------

Discussion and support for Mantis builders is here:

http://forums.flyesl.com/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=5

--------------------------------------------

The Alcyone is a great platform to learn to thermal with and then stepping up to an Aegea/Mantis will put you into State of The Art territtory with an easily duplicated very high performance airframe.


T.D.

[Don T.]

Originally posted by target
So what, if any, mods should I make to the original design. I plan on either 5 or 6 servos in my installation, and was thinking of using IRD's in the wing.

Thanks for the Advice,
Target

Definitely go with the multiple servo setup in the wing; much more flexible and much easier to set up if you have any experience at all with a computer radio! Build light and make certain the stab pivot/rocker is square to the fin. You might also consider building the wing in three pieces (center section & tip panels) instead of as a two piece, but this is a personal opinion as I'm not a fan of the bolt/joiner clip on the root ribs. I've seen them ripped out of too many Alcyones to be enamoured with that mounting system. Much better to have that section permanently joined & know that the attachment points are solid and have the weaker portion of the wing out & away from the major stresses! Anyhow, you'll love the way it flies if you take the time to set it up right and get the launch/sink camber settings right on. I wouldn't doubt you'll have it out on the slope playing around with it before you're done with it! ;)

Don T. NN4S

[target]

Thanks for the tips, Don. I plan on keeping the tail end light and square; I've just recently learned to attach extension sticks to extremeties such as the fin during assembly. That helps to make much more fine and exact adjustments while on final assembly.
Thanks though especially for the tip on making the wing 3 piece instead of 2. I'll check it out when the kit arrives. Be on the lookout for more questions then.

Thanks, Target

[Jack Hyde]

I just sold my 3m Alcyone that I had for 4 years. It was pretty dinged up but still flying. The method for joining the 2 piece wing was a constant problem. I tore out the root rib more than a few times. Even after glassing it in. If I were doing another I would glass the area of the root rib like I meant it. I also eventually got rid of the clips and modified the attach area to use a 1/4" nylon bolt thru eac wing half into the fuse to hold the wing on. A 3 piece wing would be good. now fly a Mantis and an Agea with 3 piece wings and really like them.
My records show the Alcyone weighed 61 ozs RTF when first completed. After lots of rpairs it now weighs 70 ozs. It was and is a pretty good themal plane at either weight. I think the airfoil it has is OK. If you build another wing I gues the MH32 would be a popular choice.

[target]

Thanks for the reply, Jack. I appreciate the fact that hopefully I won't have to go through all the repairing that you did, by making my mods during initial construction. Thanks again.

Target

[shoe]

Originally posted by target
Shoe-
Whats up? How's Y.a.h.b. doing?
Thanks for your input; these same questions apply to you, of course.

Thanks, Target

The y.a.h.b. is in the radio install stage.

I'd ditto the comments above regarding glassing the root ribs (if you go with the stock 2 piece wing).

If you do decide to eventually bag a wing my guess is that you'll want a composite fuse to go with it. Beyond that I don't think you can go wrong with the Aegea design.

[target]

To All,
It's sounding like maybe the weak link in the Alcyone design is the wing joiner; I may go to the 3 piece set up. I'm going to decide after the kit arrives(Friday).

Thank you all,
Target

[target]

I recieved the kit, and have only glanced at the plans and instructions, but,
has anyone thought about increasing the dihedral, and taking out the angle at the tip panels?
The length of the ailerons could then be extended towards the tips, making camber changes more effective.
What does the vote say??

[Don T.]

Make no major design changes to a good flying plane; only correct the design flaws! That's my way of looking at it. :D You'll enjoy the way the plane flies with the polyhedral set as specified in the plans. The ailerons/flaps set up with six servos & a computer radio will let you treat the whole trailing edge as ailerons if you so wish without having to change the plane's design. It's a great flying platform, especially with the camber-changing capability that a four servo wing provides.

The only downsides to the design have been previously mentioned; you must build the fuselage carefully & accurately for a straight flying plane. This isn't a design flaw, just a difference in design theology of a time before laser cutting and jigsaw-puzzle style assembly. It's more enjoyable for the experienced builder, but a good bit more time consuming in this world of "I want it NOW!" that we've grown accustomed to.

The major design flaw (IMHO) of this plane was actually considered to be a plus by the designer (Leroy Satterlee) and that's the joiner system for the wing halves. If you look at it on paper, it's a pretty simple & effective design. No tape or multiple screws required (IE Spirit 100), just slip the clips onto the root ribs and insert the screws to hold them & the wing in place. If sized correctly, the shearing forces should be able to slice the screws off well before the root ribs rip out of the wing. The problem with that is our launch equipment & landing tasks gave us the ability to overtax the design and forced a change to metal fasteners instead of nylon OR a change to larger nylon fasteners that didn't shear before the wing damage occurred. That kept us from popping the wing off (never actually saw one separate during launch, only heard of it) and having to replace the bolts on every spot landing (saw PLENTY of that!), but it hurt the plane's survivability in the long run. I've seen it done both ways in an attempt to get around the "problem" that we really caused by trying to land on the spot or zoom into the sky in a more stressful manner than intended. When you change to a three piece wing, you can make your center section pretty much bulletproof and strengthen it for use with the larger nylon fasteners in place of the stock design; just be sure to strengthen the fuse attachment points as well so that they don't get ripped out instead of the bolts shearing on a major impact. The tip panels can either be held on with tape or something mor elaborate if desired, but the stresses out there are not going to be anywhere near as much trouble to deal with. When launching or landing, you're dealing with the strain on the wing/fuse joining system, not the tips, so as long as the wing stays attached to the fuse they tend to stay along for the ride.

Sorry to go on so long, but I hope this helps...:cool:

[target]

I appreciate your reply, Don, long or otherwise, I read every word.

What kind of joiner setup should I use if I go with the 3 piece wing?
Am I correct in assuming the center section should stop at the outboard end of the flaps?
Sorry for so many questions.
Thanks, Target

BTW, I doubt very much that I'll be doing any "spot" landings or contest zoom launches, I'd probably get a more modern design later if I'm bitten hard by the thermal bug.

[Don T.]

Originally posted by target
What kind of joiner setup should I use if I go with the 3 piece wing?
Am I correct in assuming the center section should stop at the outboard end of the flaps?

BTW, I doubt very much that I'll be doing any "spot" landings or contest zoom launches, I'd probably get a more modern design later if I'm bitten hard by the thermal bug.

Use the stock joiner rods to join the center section and make sure alignment is correct. then glass that puppy together after checking the wing hold-down for accuracy. Yes, the center section stops at the outboard ends of the flaps. You can use small carbon rods & brass tubing for joining the tip sections to the center; they'll provide alignment and strength without adding much weight. A three pin connector pair can be built into the adjoining rids to provide plug & play servo hookup if you're comfortable with installing them; if not, just use the standard servo connectors and plug them together during pre-flight assembly and stuff them into the wiring recess before taping. I prefer the built-in connector pair because it prevents forgetfulness taking out your plane! :rolleyes:

You'll get hooked on thermalling if you fly this plane any length of time; it's a sweetheart! :D

[target]

About what diameter and length of carbon rod/ brass tube on each side of the break would you recommend?

[Don T.]

Originally posted by target
About what diameter and length of carbon rod/ brass tube on each side of the break would you recommend?

I'm comfortable using two pieces of 1/8" CF rod 6" long so that there's 3" in each wing piece. Support the brass tubing not only at the end ribs (add these by cutting the core at the flap/aileron break & removing the thickness of your ribs from each side of the cut to keep the correct airfoil) but by sinking a sub rib into the foam core about 2.5 inches from the panel ends. It doesn't need to be full width of the panel, just 1" longer than you plan to spread the pins. Try to center it up in the core's thicker part so that the leading pin is just ahead of the spar and the trailing pin is about 1.5 - 2" ahead of your trailing edge facing (not the aileron/flap t.e.). That will give you a pretty good load spread without requiring a lot of extra work. Just route the slot for the thickness & length of the sub rib (before sheeting, of course), trace the outline of the core onto it & trim the sub rib to fit just below the surface of the core. Glue it into place & fill any voids with light spackle before adding the CF reinforcement & bagging the wing sections. Don't forget to mark the skins for the separating the wing section joint with a razor saw if you don't cut the beds & cores into separate pieces for bagging. I prefer to bag them separated by a sheet of Monokote backing so that they're already separated & the epoxy doesn't glue my end ribs together. Strong, light & very secure.

You won't drill for the panels until you've got the wing bagged; that makes it very easy to get everything aligned just so before marking and drilling. To mark the panels, I prefer to set the tubes into the tip panel first since it's the thinner section. Drill the holes for the tubing square to the end ribs (no dihedral here to worry about) and insert the tubes into the panel to check the fit by checking the squareness of the joiner rods to the rib. If all looks good, take a piece of 1/8" music wire & grind it to a point on one end. Insert that end into the tube and press it gently to seat it before marking it 1/16" above the rib. Pull it out & cut it off (make two of these if you like, makes things even easier); this will be used to mark your tube locations on the center section ribs. With the wing sections sitting on the lower bed and the locator marking pin in one of the tip tubes(pointy end out), check panel alignment & then gently slide the tip panel into the cener panel. The pointed end will make an indentation to locate your drill for the matching center section tube. If you drill these squarely like you did the others, you'll have a perfect fit! If not & one must be slightly adjusted, don't despair; the outboard end of the tube hole can be slightly opened up to allow alignment & the void filled in with foam-friendly CA or epoxy after tacking it into place. It really sounds a lot more difficult to do than it is!!!

I hope this all makes sense to you, gotta go out to the shop now & help my daughter with her science project for tomorrow's class.

[target]

Don-
Sounds pretty do-able to me; Im already planning other "sneaky" little mods with the servos-

I'm planning to either mount the ail. servos in the O/B portion of the center section(no plugging in connections), and bringing the likage out and to an extremely I/B aileron horn,
-or-
I might go with the IRD setup, and have the aileron pocket "open" on the I/B side of the aileron.
Either way, it takes out the plug connection, and keeps the tips lighter. Sneaky, eh?

Thanks for all the help.
Target

[Don T.]

Originally posted by target
Don-
Sounds pretty do-able to me; Im already planning other "sneaky" little mods with the servos-
-----
SNIP!!!
------
I might go with the IRD setup, and have the aileron pocket "open" on the I/B side of the aileron.
Either way, it takes out the plug connection, and keeps the tips lighter. Sneaky, eh?

Thanks for all the help.
Target

I like the sound of that! Good luck with it and working out all of the little details; those drivers do look interesting. Either way, I'm sure that it won't be a big deal for you to build if you're considering adding those in! :D

I look forward to seeing the details in posted pictures as you get it all worked out & ready to fly. Enjoy!

[target]

I'll definately post some pics of the mods for your critique.

Thanks again,
Target

[target]

On the wings sheeted with 1/16th" balsa, I was thinking about either substituting, or adding kevlar(aramid) for the 2" TE strip of glass the plans call out, and using this for my hinges, flaps on bottom, ailerons on top.
This will result in a small(1/16th" span) groove in the top surface sheeting at the ailerons, and an 1/8th" span one on the bottom sheeting at the flaps.
Any real disadvantage to using a live hinge below the sheeting?

Free for All commentary!
Target

[Don T.]

Never tried the live hinging, so I can't offer any suggestions there. I've done the silicon hinging, tape hinging, Monokote hinging and the various glue-in types of hinges but have never experimented with what you're considering. I guess my only concern would be the lifespan & flexibilityof the kevlar. Of course, if it tears out along the hinge line and doesn't crash the plane, you should be able to tape hinge it after trimming to get it operational again. I hope it's going smoothly; we're all still waiting to see some pics of your progress!

:D

[target]

Yeah,
I should post some pics; I have to figure out how to make the files from my camera smaller.
It's going pretty good; I have the tail group finished but not covered yet. I plan on building the fuse next.
I am planning on using the 4 servo wing, with the IRD for no-drag, all internal linkages, with all 4 servos located in the center wing panel. That way, there will be no pesky wiring to connect, or possibly come loose between the center panel and tip panels.

Target

[target]

Well,
here is what I've done so far.

Stabs,Fin and Rudder-built stock.

Fuse-mainly stock, but I'm going to use a pull-pull for the rudder, and an 85BB for the rudder and the stab. Here are some pics.
For the wing, Im planning on utilizing a one-piece center section, breaking at the aileron/flap joint. All 4 servos will be in the center section, turning IRD set ups. The aileron rotary shafts will extend into the aileron pockets in the plug-on tip panels. That way, all the servo connections will stay connected most of the time, and as much of the wings weight will be as inboard as possible.

Target

[target]

couple more

[shoe]

sooo pretty :cool:

[target]

Thanks,
Wait til you see the highly modified wings, when I'm done that is....
Target

[target]

Ok-
I spent nearly as much as a servo on my tow hook, but hey, that what puts the plane up, right?
I'm attaching pics, it's the one from Kennedy Composites(Thanks!), and I'm thinking these are mainly used on 'glass fuses. So, how to mount this beauty in a woodie??

I was thinking of shaping an 1/8th" birch ply plate to match the beveled angles, glue the plate and tow hook body into the floor of the fuse. Then I was going to make up some extra ply bulkheads to catch the fore and aft flats on the topside of the housing, hopfully tying those bulkheads into the wing hold down plate above.
Any thoughts?? Comments?? Suggestions??? WARNINGS!????

Thanks, Target

Sorry about the blurry pics!

[target]

Oh yeah, didn't some one say the CG and tow hook position as per the plan is WAY off??

Thanks !!

[SoCalGliderFlyr]

Harbor City is next to Westminister? If so PM me with a phone number or e-mail and I can help.

[target]

I'm still looking for specific info gained by first hand experience with this plane relating to the tow hook position, if any one remembers theirs or still has a flying Alcone 100"

Thanks, Target

[SoCalGliderFlyr]

Guess my 36 years of RC sailplane flying, designing and building isn't enough.

[steelhead]

So.... where are the "highly modified wings"?

Dean

[target]

So.... where are the "highly modified wings"?

Dean

I'll post some pics either tonight or tomorrow night, based on what my work schedule allows.
The wings are/will be highly modified, but I've been distracted in this project by a couple of new aquisitions(Trinity Carbon, and EVO 9).....

Target

PS. Nice thread resurrection, Dean!

[target]

Dean-
Here's what I've done before the F3F bug bit me.

Here's a laundry list of mods to satisfy(my)definition of "highly modified"

1. 3 peice wings, not two peice as stock
2. Spar extension to facilitate the 3 peice joiners.
3. Addition of "sub ribs" to support secondary carbon joiners in center section to tip
joint.
4. Kevlar used between foam cores and balsa sheeting, for live hinges. Flaps bottom-
hinged, of course.
5. And for the grand finalley, RDS to drive the surfaces. But of course, I've taken it
one step further, because all four servos will be living in the center section, to
keep the weight inboard, and to keep from having to plug the aileron servos in,
when slipping on the tip panels. I'll let you try to figure that one out.

Here's the pics of what I've done so far...

[target]

And the next set...

[target]

And a few more...

[target]

And just a few more...

[InTheLift]

Target's got more hours in these mods than I generally spend on an entire build...doubting his mods are ya Dean??? :rolleyes: J/K! Truly some inspiring work Target has going here...and I've been lucky enough to see it progress in person. :)

[steelhead]

Wasnt Doubting- He just hadnt posted any pics, and I was eagerly awaiting to see them. I always like seeing how others build their wings.

Nice pics!!!

Thanks for posting them!

Dean

[target]

Your forgiven!
Now i need to quit building slopers, and finish this thing...

[tlcglider]

I am reviving this thread in the hopes someone can help me.

I have an open class Alcyone (wood fuselage version) that I bought years ago. I never started to build it, but the RC bug has bit again, so I now want to build it. These are the modifitions I plan on using:

-Build the wing three piece with solid center section and plug-in tips, ala this thread.

-.007 x 1/2" carbon fiber on the top and bottom spars.

-4 wing servos with RDS control (have not decided on servos - jr d281s? or 241s? or hitec hs85mg, they each have merits, your comments welcome!!!)

-pull-pull rudder cables with a dual bb mini servo (hitec hs225bb)

Some of the web searches I did on this plane (plus Chuperrosa info) indicate that the supplied elevator control system is/can be sloppy. I have also seen in other places, people say the elevator needs the best control and resolution of all the control surfaces of sailplanes. I want to use a hitec digital servo (hs5245) for elevator because of the resolution of digital servos, but if the control system provided is junk, it's a waste of money and effort.

Now to the question;

How can I redesign this elevator control system to eliminate the slop??

The NSP web site still has an article about this glider, but it is about the fiberglass fuselage version. The author said the elevator control was "very positive", but that his control run was straight, the wood fuselage version puts a big bend in the control rod.

This will be my first full-house sailplane. Learned on gasbags(Drifter II) years ago. I think I understand how to build the changes above, but I am unfamiliar with what to do with the elevator system.

Thanks for your time and the bandwidth!!!!

Lincoln

[tlcglider]

Next subject:

I am contemplating vacuum bagging the wing sheeting on the Alcyone using a brake bleeder vacuum pump from Sears ala www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/foam_vac/scobiepuchtler_simplebaggingsys.htm

This will be my first attempt at bagging a wing, so some questions:

-can I use generic plastic sheet from home depot for the bag?

-if so, what thickness 2mil, 3mil, 4mil, or 6mil. thicker = stiffer, thinner = weaker, does it matter much?

-what can I seal the bag with that I can get at home depot/ace hardware?

(the above article says "sticky bag sealant strip", but does not tell you where to get it!! the article says bag clips don't work as well with hand pumps because the clips leak easier and the electric pumps don't care because they are always on. With a hand pump, you must have a good seal because the pump only works when you do!)

-since this is a balsa sheeted wing, no mylars are necessary in the bag? Yes? No?

Since this is my first bagging experience, I will probably practice on scrap before attempting the wing for which replacement parts are not longer available.

I will try to post a picture of the lay-up when I do it, but it might June or July by then.

Thanks for your time and the bandwidth and I applogize to those bored or irritated by such old technology questions.

Lincoln

[tlcglider]

Hey target,

thanks for posting all the pictures, they help a lot.

Lincoln

[target]

Lincoln-
I'll try to answer your questions with my opinions later today; the wind is rippin' here in SoCal, and I'm off to the slope!
Target

[Don T.]

Your forgiven!
Now i need to quit building slopers, and finish this thing...

Looking good! Glad to see that you've followed through with the mods we discussed so long ago. I need to get back to flying (anything!); it's been WAY too long since I've gotten the chance. Maybe I can get motivated to do so this spring; my family gave me the G3 sim for Christmas to try & get me back into it and stop letting all of those planes just sit there... :p

[target]

I am reviving this thread in the hopes someone can help me.

I have an open class Alcyone (wood fuselage version) that I bought years ago. I never started to build it, but the RC bug has bit again, so I now want to build it. These are the modifitions I plan on using:

-Build the wing three piece with solid center section and plug-in tips, ala this thread.

-.007 x 1/2" carbon fiber on the top and bottom spars.

-4 wing servos with RDS control (have not decided on servos - jr d281s? or 241s? or hitec hs85mg, they each have merits, your comments welcome!!!)

-pull-pull rudder cables with a dual bb mini servo (hitec hs225bb)

Some of the web searches I did on this plane (plus Chuperrosa info) indicate that the supplied elevator control system is/can be sloppy. I have also seen in other places, people say the elevator needs the best control and resolution of all the control surfaces of sailplanes. I want to use a hitec digital servo (hs5245) for elevator because of the resolution of digital servos, but if the control system provided is junk, it's a waste of money and effort.

Now to the question;

How can I redesign this elevator control system to eliminate the slop??


Lincoln-
On my 100" kit, the run for the elevator cable isn't very bent at all; I intentionally was careful there, because I had the same info that you have found...
My thought was that if the elevator had any excess slop, that I would pre-load the push cable, by using a small loop of elastic, from a fabric supply store, around the bellcrank pin, and attached at the bottom of the hollow fin.
I doubt that I will have to go this route, though, as the linkage seems fairly positive.
At this time, I am trying to keep the plane fairly light, and am using HS85BB's in the fuse, and 85MG's for the wing servos.

The NSP web site still has an article about this glider, but it is about the fiberglass fuselage version. The author said the elevator control was "very positive", but that his control run was straight, the wood fuselage version puts a big bend in the control rod.



This will be my first full-house sailplane. Learned on gasbags(Drifter II) years ago. I think I understand how to build the changes above, but I am unfamiliar with what to do with the elevator system.

Thanks for your time and the bandwidth!!!!

Lincoln



I hope this helps you,
Target

[tlcglider]

Hey now!

Thanks a lot, target. I guess I'll do the best I can with the stock setup and hope it works okay.

On your wing, what size are the add on CF rods and brass tubes? looks like maybe 1/4". Do they interfer with the rds system? or is that what the diagnal line is for?

I think I will use either silicone hinges or make figerglass hinges like Dr Drela's (I don't remember where I found that file anymore :confused: )

In the picture of the sheeted panels (post #36, second and third pictures), did you fiberglass that one area?? Which section is that and which end?

Lincoln

[target]

Hey now!

Thanks a lot, target. I guess I'll do the best I can with the stock setup and hope it works okay.

On your wing, what size are the add on CF rods and brass tubes? looks like maybe 1/4". Do they interfer with the rds system? or is that what the diagnal line is for?


Lincoln-
Yes, they are just about 1/4". But they are at the VERY top of the airfoil, because they will be pushing the envelope for space for the RDS. I think 3/16" would be better, but I already had these. The diagonal line is for the RDS-good eyes. All 4 servos will be in the center section, so there will be no worries about connecting servos for the tip panels...

I think I will use either silicone hinges or make figerglass hinges like Dr Drela's (I don't remember where I found that file anymore :confused: )

In the picture of the sheeted panels (post #36, second and third pictures), did you fiberglass that one area?? Which section is that and which end?

Lincoln


The C.F rod diameter answer is above.


As for the pictures, the first one shows the yellow Kevlar that is going on the top skin as the aileron hinge. This is in the outboard panel, outside of the join line. The center section is two pieces right now, that will be joined permanently with dihedral, and have the Kevlar for the flap hinge on the bottom skin.
The picture that I'm going to re-attach shows where I made the cut; right where the stock flap and aileron meet...


T

[tlcglider]

Lincoln-
Yes, they are just about 1/4". But they are at the VERY top of the airfoil, because they will be pushing the envelope for space for the RDS. I think 3/16" would be better, but I already had these. The diagonal line is for the RDS-good eyes. All 4 servos will be in the center section, so there will be no worries about connecting servos for the tip panels...

Since I will have to buy new stuff, I will probably downsize to 3/16" on the main spar. I would think 1/8" would be okay on the rear rod. That would leave more room for the RDS shaft. Or maybe that too small/weak? I don't know. Need Dr Drela's calculator ....


As for the pictures, the first one shows the yellow Kevlar that is going on the top skin as the aileron hinge. This is in the outboard panel, outside of the join line. The center section is two pieces right now, that will be joined permanently with dihedral, and have the Kevlar for the flap hinge on the bottom skin.
The picture that I'm going to re-attach shows where I made the cut; right where the stock flap and aileron meet...


T
The picture I was questioning was the end view of the sheeted wing section. I assume that the white stuff on the end is fiberglass, and was looking for a clearification. Only the one on the left in the picture has it.

Did you vacuum bag or just weight it down? (see my second post, I need bagging help too, if you know anything about doing that)

Thanks

Lincoln

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Since I will have to buy new stuff, I will probably downsize to 3/16" on the main spar. I would think 1/8" would be okay on the rear rod. That would leave more room for the RDS shaft. Or maybe that too small/weak? I don't know. Need Dr Drela's calculator ....



The picture I was questioning was the end view of the sheeted wing section. I assume that the white stuff on the end is fiberglass, and was looking for a clearification. Only the one on the left in the picture has it.

Did you vacuum bag or just weight it down? (see my second post, I need bagging help too, if you know anything about doing that)

Thanks

Lincoln

Lincoln-
You might as well leave the CF tubes/rods on the main spar large; I forgot that they don't interefere with my planned RDS install. Going to a smaller size on the rear one, and keeping it near the top skin is a good idea. One thing that I could have done, was to add some glass under the skins where the rear spar is.

The white stuff on the ends of the panels, is where I used a couple of layers of paper towel for a breather cloth; it stuck to the ends, but was reasonably easy to sand off afterwards.
Vacuum bagging isn't required, but I prefer it, coupled with epoxy, as my favored method of skin attachment.
Sorry for the confusion caused by the paper towels...
T

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Maybe I can finish this after four years!!

D'oh!

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[LVsoaring]

I'm sure glad I ran across this thread, I just picked up a 100" Alcyone kit off flea bay. I'm pretty much a RES guy, but the price was too good to pass up. It's way more complicated than I'm used to, so all info and input I can glean from this thread will be greatly appreciated!

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LV:

I hope to get back on this build sometime in January, and will post mor pics when I do.

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