Anyone building a Sky Bird?

[stephen.s1]

I've just started the (wooden, natch) fuse. I'd be happy to compare notes/photos with anyone who's built/modified one of these big wooden sailplanes.

Cheers

[Hawksnest]

I built a Sky Bird early last spring, and flew it all summer. Broke the tail off when my workshop door slammed shut on it, then put it on a SB glass fuse and flew it the rest of the year. I finally repaired the wood fuse. I have just started building my second Sky Bird, as of last Saturday, and have the inboard wing sections done up to where I need to build the tips. The planes launch great, and fly very good. They will thermal on a wingtip. Bill G.

[stephen.s1]

Good to know. I've built 2 Lil' Birds. Both seemed to do well. I'm lookin fwd to flying a big RES ship.

I'll look out for slaming doors around here. :)

Cheers

[Hawksnest]

This is the wood fuse SB with the aforementioned shop door in the background.:D :D Bill G.

[fprintf]

That plane looks beautiful.

Steve,

When you get done building I'd love to take a closer look. That plane has to be one of the most beautifu I have ever seen online and I cannot wait to see it in person. I'd also love to hear, in this thread or otherwise, about how the building is coming along. Will you stick to the plans for this one or do your usual modifications?

[Hawksnest]

This is a stretched (112") Big Bird, that weighs 46 ounces, and fly's great. 940 sq. in. Two extra inboard panels each side. Bill G.

[Hawksnest]

100" & 112" wings side by side. I'll quit now. :D :D

(I like Birds) I fly a 2M Lil Bird also. Bill

[fprintf]

46 ounces! For me that it only 8 ounces more than my foam 2meter. I can't wait to see Steve's fly...

[stephen.s1]

Nice looking flock you've got there.

I did notice that you've moved the spoilers further aft on the wing. I had planned on doing the same thing. Other changes I'm planning on are to use triangular stock full length in the fuse so that I can severely round off those hard edges. I'm not sure that the as designed spar system can take a pedal to the metal F3B monofiliment launch. Gotta do more thinking there... Hawksnest, perhaps you'd care to comment on this.

Both of my Lil' Birds have the fin/rudder line closer to the vertical than Ray calls for. Just a personal flying thing...

At any rate the Birds are fun to build. And if done properly, sure look good.

Stuart, the Big Bird would make a nice first built-up for you. :)


Cheers!

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by stephen.s1
Nice looking flock you've got there.

I'm not sure that the as designed spar system can take a pedal to the metal F3B monofiliment launch. Gotta do more thinking there... Hawksnest, perhaps you'd care to comment on this.


Cheers!

Thanks, I usually use 0.014" carbon on the spars top & bottom, and otherwise build the wing pretty much stock. To get light good turning wings, the 112" wings I scratch built, and used 4-6# balsa leading edge sheeting & trailing edges. Those wings weigh 11 ounces each half with spoiler servo installed. My 100" wings weigh 9.5 oz per side. I don't know about F3B mono type launches, I don't do launches with woody's like that, no need to they launch very high, only my moldeds.:D I do launch hard and do a pretty good zoom with the birds though. My 100" stock bird (.014 top & .007" bottom spar) weighs 40 oz AUW. I attach the carbon to the spars first, then lay the top and bottom spars in so that the carbon is next to the vertical grain balsa. Bill G.

[Ray Lowinski]

Do you guys think that wing could hold the weight of a 7 cell brushless setup? That would add around 25 oz to the weight. I love the Bird's planform and I just happen to have an AVA fuse looking for a wing in the 100"+ range.

Ray

[stephen.s1]

Easily!

Cheers

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by stephen.s1
Easily!

Cheers

YUP !! Easily !!
I fly these 100" & 112" wings on a Big Bird fuse with a Jedi 30/3 and 10 cp1300 cells, 12/6 at 66 oz. Brisk climb, good flyer. There are others on this forum (electric sailplanes) who fly other brushless set ups on the Big Bird in LMR 7 cell. Bill G.

[ken troxell]

ray...ifly my big bird with a hacker on 7 cp1700scr cells. climb is great.i used the CFrod that ray offers. AUW is 61oz.p/s i cheated and used 20% flaps.lands like a windsong....ken troxell

[Ray Lowinski]

Sounds like a winner to me.

I was going to get the BOT ARF wing but, after reading about all the issues, I decided to go with something else.

I won't use flaps, just spoilers. It will be a top mount arrangement also so I will have options to play with.

BTW, what is the stock area and root cord?

Ray

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by Ray Lowinski

BTW, what is the stock area and root cord?

Ray

830 sq. in. & 9.250" BG

[mgardner]

Hawksnest...I'm in awe...would you mind if I boxed mine up and sent it to you to build for me. I started my SB, then work picked up and I havent had time to get back to it. Your pic has inspired me today...I have one inboard wing panel done, and beginning the related tip....

I really like that covering scheme...your plane looks awesome...

Mark G

[Ray Lowinski]

Thanks so much.

With specs like that I could even do the 10 cell with my F10LMR and still not be pushing it.

I don't suppose you know if they just sell the wing kit? Or do you have the link?

Ray

[mgardner]

OK guys...new to postin pics, so lets see how this works..

first is laying out the bottom sheeting beginning inner panel construction.

Oops...file size too big...trying again after resizing..

[mgardner]

OK..trying again...

bottom sheeting in place...

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by mgardner

I really like that covering scheme...your plane looks awesome...

Mark G

Thanks Mark, I used the two new std wt. fluorescent transparent colors (at the time last spring) from Ultracote. The camera balked at the fluo. red on the tip panels, and fuzzed them up. Just couldn't handle the color. :D ::D The transparent 112" orange wing actually has fluorescent orange trim, and it came out as yellow. Go figure. Bill G.
Get back into yours, the SB builds nicely, just big.

[mgardner]

Gettin ready to set bottom spars..

[mgardner]

spars in place..

[mgardner]

ribs in place..

[mgardner]

inner wing panel with top spars on...joiner rod isnt attached yet, just in place for photo...getting ready to start the tip construction now..

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by Ray Lowinski

I don't suppose you know if they just sell the wing kit? Or do you have the link?

Ray

I don't think Ray Hayes sells just the wing kit, but you could try.BG
His email is
skybench.aerotech@gte.net

His web site is
www.skybench.com

[mgardner]

photos are a little fuzzy...sorry...I think I resized them a little small...hope to improve next time...

now headed upstairs to work on the wing tip panel...

[mgardner]

If you're observant you'll see I screwed up on the placement of the front bottom sheeting...in the photo with the bottom sheeting and one rib in place, note that the sheeting should extend under the spar...that was a bit of a pain to fix, but its done now...learning experience...

Also, note the placement of the small pieces along the trailing edge...these arent shown on the plans...I guessed at location. They are there to add stiffness to the wing...

[Ray Lowinski]

OK Hawksnest, I wrote to Ray. I hope I don't have to buy a complete kit for just the wing. I really would like to get both the 100" and 132" for a dual purpose plane.

Ray

[mgardner]

Hawksnest...a construction sequence question for you on the skybird...

I am building the second inner wing panel now. I built the first and stopped at the point where you install W1 shear web. I was going to build the second to the same point, then test fit to make sure the dihedral was correct before mounting the brass tube in the second inner panel. I was also thinking about framing up the fuse at this point to make sure the wings were square to the fuse.

Do you have any suggestions at this point on things I should check before mounting the joiner rods?

I haven't installed W1 in either panel yet..

The instructions talk about mounting the outer panels at the same time as W1, but I think I am going to do this in two steps..I want to be careful with both to make sure everything is square.

Thanks for any input...

Mark

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by mgardner
Hawksnest...a construction sequence question for you on the skybird...

I was going to build the second to the same point, then test fit to make sure the dihedral was correct before mounting the brass tube in the second inner panel. I was also thinking about framing up the fuse at this point to make sure the wings were square to the fuse.

Mark

Framing the fuse is a good idea, and use the rods through the fuse tubes to check the distance between the tubes on each wing half. Slide each half onto the fuse.
You can't change the dihedral angle with the joiner rod tubes, they slide into laser cut holes through 5 ribs. Put the front tube in, then W-1 & W-2, then stand the wing on the LE, & imbed the front rod in epoxy/micro balloons, then cut away a 1/16" from each rib to allow for the ply piece W-3 to slide in, coat with epoxy and put it in. THEN put the second (back) tube in. Make sure you have the slot where W-3 goes cleaned out so you don't force the two rods apart. Best to weight down the spar and TE to keep them in the proper place while gluing in W-3. I also put a long piece of 1/8" X 1/4" balsa strip under the LE to keep the proper LE height while gluing up the tubes/braces. I use Perma Grit sanders to open and clean the channels for the W 1-4 pieces. Ray has them, or Hobby Lobby, or Sheldon's. Never wear out. Bill G.

[Ray Lowinski]

Just got the answer back from Ray. He doesn't sell just the wing kits so I guess I'm back to searching for one to go with my fuse.

Ray

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by Ray Lowinski
Just got the answer back from Ray. He doesn't sell just the wing kits so I guess I'm back to searching for one to go with my fuse.

Ray

Just scratch build a wing. Do you have Compufoil? If not, you should get it. Pick an airfoil, put the 3/8 X 1/8 spar slots top & bottom to snap to the high point, set the LE thickness to 1/4" , chord length 9.25" , sheeting thickness at 1/16", print it, and stick it on a stack of 20 or so 3/32" blanks glued together at the ends which you left at 1" long each end, saw them out, then use the same chord to print out a set of lofted ribs for the tip sections, what ever length you want. Hand cut two of each. It takes me about 2 hours to print and cut a whole set of ribs for a wing, and about a week to 10 days (15-18 hrs) to build the wing. Wing rods and brass tubes are available from Ray. Learn to scratch build, and the sky is the limit.
I lay out my rib spacing and sheeting on posterboard and can build a few wings from it till it gets raggety. Bill G.

[Ray Lowinski]

Yeah, been there, done that. I like to build but with my schedule right now that isn't going to cut it. Working 7/week and 3 classes this Semester just isn't allowing time to scratch build, home right now 'cause the wife had surgery (FMLA). One class is online so I can jump from the class to EZone pretty easily.

I MIGHT cut foam wings and that would be just as efficient for time but I REALLY liked the looks and reviews on the Bird wings. Maybe I'll just order a set of BOT ARF wings and strip 'em and recover.

Ray

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by Ray Lowinski
I REALLY liked the looks and reviews on the Bird wings. Maybe I'll just order a set of BOT ARF wings and strip 'em and recover.

Ray

That would work, and be fast too. They are three piece wings, and I took off the bottom LE sheeting, did my beefing up, and put the sheeting back on. Put spoilers in, recovered. About 4 hours work. If you don't have time to build, that would do it. :D Bill G.

[kostuk]

Hi
On your extended span Big Bird are you using the stock wing rod that comes in the Big Bird kit?
Thanks,
Ray

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by kostuk
Hi
On your extended span Big Bird are you using the stock wing rod that comes in the Big Bird kit?
Thanks,
Ray

Yes I am, I bought a couple extras with brass tubes from Ray.
I used 0.014" carbon, top and bottom on each inboard spar, and 0.007" top and bottom on each outboard spar. I don't winch it quite as hard as the 100", but it gets very high launches, and a mild zoom. It may take a lot more than I give it, but I really don't need any more launch height. It rolls great, and fly's inverted very well, but looks funny, as they all do inverted :-) Bill G.

[averen]

Hey Mark,
Long time no see! You plan on flying with us again :) Anyways..if you're running WIn XP there is a nice little app that you can use to resize your pics...does a good job...I've used it on all the pics on our website. It's downloadable

http://download.microsoft.com/download/whistler/Install/2/WXP/EN-US/ImageResizerPowertoySetup.exe

It's free...but I think it only works on XP...just install it...right click your pics and select Resize...chose your size and you're done :)

Nice looking plane btw :)

Averen

[mgardner]

Hey Averen...good to hear from you...Ill fly if it ever stops raining/blowing...but for now, I'm building as time permits

I'm not running XP...I have a utility to do it, just not very good at using it...ust got to pay a little more attention to file size after resizing..

Hope to see you soon...Mark

[averen]

We missed you at the club meeting! Hopefully this drizzle will stop and we'll actually be able to fly!

Jared

PS - finally got a new radio! hello 8103...good bye 6XAS!

[stephen.s1]

Not being thrilled with the price of a FG fuse for the S'bird, I elected to build the wooden version. After 2 Lil' Birds, I wanted a more curvaceous box to hang the wings on.

I picked out some light 3/8" triangular stock and ran it full length on the bottom, and from the TE aft. The weight situation at this point (RUFF shaped) is thus 13.6oz before shaping, and after the triangle stock installed. 12.3 oz at this point. I expect to lose another 3 or 4 tenth of an ounce when fully smoothed.

The photos will show how much plywood we lost. In all shots the balsa cornerblocks clearly show. The wire hanging out the stern is a come-along for the rx antenna when it's installed. Pushrods are .072" CF, sheathed only at the rear exit points.

Other changes I'll make will be to impart an airfoil shape to the stab and fin assembly. Hinges there will be full length 1.5 oz kevlar slotted into appropriate edges. The spoiler blade to be a CF sheet, and the rudder hingeline will be adjusted to a more vertical angle.

[stephen.s1]

Photo 1

[stephen.s1]

Detail

[stephen.s1]

Another detail

[Hawksnest]

Here's a couple pictures of my flap set up on my new Sky Bird. I flew it yesterday, and it flew great. Steep approaches, slow landings. Bill G.

[Hawksnest]

This gives you an idea what 2" wide flaps look like when deployed
Bill G.

[stephen.s1]

Looks good Bill.

I need a big RES ship or I'd try the same thing.

Did you ever check the weight of your tailfeathers after punching out the lightning holes?

I think I'll pass on covering the empenage; and possibly the fuse. A couple of, well sanded, coats of waterbased urethane will keep the balsa from sucking up moisture.

I'd almost forgotten how much fun these floaters are to fly. Y'day was one of those launch and mosy around while the Lil' Bird did it's thing.

Steve

[mgardner]

Hawksnest...are you SURE I cant just box mine up as is and send to you to finish building for me...I've decided I'm not a builder...

Mark

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by mgardner
Hawksnest...are you SURE I cant just box mine up as is and send to you to finish building for me...I've decided I'm not a builder...

Mark
You can build, don't give up. I just pour glue into the box, shake it up, and drop out an airplane. :D :D :D Bill

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by stephen.s1
Looks good Bill.

I need a big RES ship or I'd try the same thing.

Did you ever check the weight of your tailfeathers after punching out the lightning holes?


Steve
I already have a Sky Bird with spoilers for RES, and it fly's great, and lands just fine.
I didn't weigh the tailfeathers , but this plane is 8 ounces lighter than the first one. Even with capstrips on the inboard panels, HS-81MGs (2) on the flaps, the C-spars, and caps on the flap openings and with both wing rods, it is lighter. Flying weight is 85 ounces 1340 sq.in.. 9.1 oz/sq.ft. wing loading. Going to be a good flyer. Bill G

[soarrich]

Bill

Look's great! Three thumbs up, (if you saw the insides of my planes you'd get that joke!). I wish I could build to where I could cover with transparent covering.

When you dropped the flaps did it wallow? I had a Pigair I put flaps on and it wallowed around when I dropped the flaps, ( it was before computer radios and mixing though).

Rich Border

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by soarrich
Bill

Look's great! Three thumbs up, (if you saw the insides of my planes you'd get that joke!). I wish I could build to where I could cover with transparent covering.

When you dropped the flaps did it wallow?
Rich Border
Thanks Rich, you are too kind. I take fuzzy photos so you can't see real detail. I only have about five or six flights on it, but I brought it down from a speck out the last flight with full flaps deployed, and the nose pointed down hard, and didn't notice any wallowing. It seems to track fine with flaps down. I couple the flaps with the rudder ( 20%) and the turns are beautiful and solid. Bill G.

[stephen.s1]

FWIW to other SB builders,

I mated both inner panels this morning. Perfect alignment! No changes from plans, LC parts, etc. That's always a nice feeling!

I'm at the point where the aftermost brass tubes will be expoxyd in and covered by the rearmost ply shearweb. This'll happen in a few minutes, and while the adhesive cures the outer panels will be started.

The fuse is a bit smoother than the posted pix show. Stab-elevator is hinged, shaped and ready for CF horn installation and final smoothing.

All in all, just another enjoyable building experience.

Steve

[soarrich]

Originally posted by Hawksnest
I couple the flaps with the rudder ( 20%) and the turns are beautiful and solid.

I never thought of doing that. Are you coupling them 20% like ailerons, or with flaps down you get 20% more rudder?

Rich

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by soarrich
I never thought of doing that. Are you coupling them 20% like ailerons, or with flaps down you get 20% more rudder?

Rich

I am coupling them in as ailerons at 20%. They move up & down with the rudder. You have to bevel the flaps like ailerons, only on the top so they can be hinged on the bottom. I fly six servo planes with the flaps coupled & following the ailerons, at about half the movement of the ailerons. Works for me. You don't have to wait on the rudder as much to move the plane into the turn. Not legal for RES, but I have a SB for RES. Bill G.

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by stephen.s1
Looks good Bill.

I need a big RES ship or I'd try the same thing.


Steve

Boy Steve, you have put in a big bunch of extra work on your SB fuse. I just went back and looked at your pics. It should give you the effect you're looking for. I just built mine the stiock way, and included some 3/4" wide carbon strips sides and bottom on the rear portions. My corners are pretty square. :D Bill G.

[stephen.s1]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Hawksnest
[B]Boy Steve, you have put in a big bunch of extra work on your SB fuse. QUOTE]

Nah, no extra work... Hey, what else do I have to do. :). After building/assembling what seems like hundreds of moldies, regression is pure pleasure.

1st outer panel off the board, and I'm taking a break. Off to local field for some DLG practice/fun.

[mgardner]

Hey Guys..Stephen, Hawksnest, or both..I'm about to build the wood fuse on my SB, and was wondering what type of adhesive to use. I was going to use wood glue...I have some fresh Probond exterior grade I just bought. I thought this would be better than epoxy or CA..

Any suggestions?

This is for layering the sides together..once I have the sides together I plan to CA the formers in after getting everything clamped in place...

Stephen..nice looking fuse..if you're bored with nothing else to do, I have a box of wood and a checkbook...LOL...

Thanks...Mark

[stephen.s1]

Hi Mark,
Probond will be just fine. Don't over clamp. (or under clamp either). :) If you must use epoxy, only West System will do... It's thin, handles easily, holds like hell, and takes 10-12 hours (at my temperatures) to set up.

I used this and Elmer's for everything on the fuse.

Apply your 1/32" ply and weight it evenly until it's dry.

I put my fuse together, sanded the liteply to get rid of any pushthru at the pegged joints, and then veneered the lightply with the laser cut 1/16" balsa.

In that area, do this for a proper bond: Thin your yellow glue to the consistency of heavy cream. Brush a thin coat on both surfaces that will mate. Don't leave any holidays... Let the glue dry. Line up the surfaces and iron the balsa to the liteply. I used a tacking iron set to the highest heat. This'll give you a bubble free, well joined unit.

Don't be afraid to use a square and straightedge to keep the fuse looking like they were used ;).

Have fun!

[gdjsky01]

Originally posted by stephen.s1
If you must use epoxy, only West System will do... It's thin, handles easily, holds like hell, and takes 10-12 hours (at my temperatures) to set up.



FWIW, System III Epoxy works as well if not (IMO) better than West Systems, has an easy 2:1 mix ratio, and last time I bought, costs less.
http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.asp

Jeff

[stephen.s1]

Thanks for the tip Jeff. I went to their site and ordered a trial batch. They also make T88... In 1975 I built an offshore cruising cutter. I used tons of that stuff.. Worked great.

Thanks again for the reminder.

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by stephen.s1
They also make T88... In 1975 I built an offshore cruising cutter.

Thanks again for the reminder.

I built and flew a full size Bowers Fly Baby in 1974, and used a lot of T-88 back then. Then used it in building medical instruments later. Good stuff. Bill G.

[gdjsky01]

Originally posted by stephen.s1
Thanks for the tip Jeff. I went to their site and ordered a trial batch. They also make T88... In 1975 I built an offshore cruising cutter. I used tons of that stuff.. Worked great.

Thanks again for the reminder.

Most of my high power rocketry friends use West Systems just because someone else before them did. Word of mouth. System III with the 2:1 mix lets me use little medicine cups to mix up much smaller amounts than the pumps that are normally used with west systems. But still 7.5cc's is about the minimum one can mix up in those cups using the markings. (5cc of resin and 2.5 of hardner). Both are more sensitive to the mix ratio than the 1:1 hobby brands. However they flow much better at cooler temps than the hobby brands. I have to nuke 30 minute and 5 minute epoxy in the microwave for 10 seconds or so to get it to flow if the temp drops below 50 (f) or so. And they are both less brittle.

Both West Systems and System III are fine of course. But the $20 trail kit, (it used to $10 about 5 years ago when I got it) is a darn fine value.

[fprintf]

I didn't think about nuking epoxy! I'd hate to ruin our microwave trying it, but that would make it flow a whole lot nicer in our 65 degree basement!

[gdjsky01]

Originally posted by fprintf
I didn't think about nuking epoxy! I'd hate to ruin our microwave trying it, but that would make it flow a whole lot nicer in our 65 degree basement!

I just place the plastic bottles in the microwave for 5 - 10 seconds. The resin gets very warm very fast. Five seconds. The hardner a bit more time, just a few more seconds. They are then fine for an hour or so.

However placing the bottles in a warm pot of water works as well (so long as there is not so much water as to a make them float). Or even a near (not too near) a 75 watt flood lamp. But if you get them TOO near, you'll melt the spouts. Don't ask how I know this. :rolleyes: :eek:

Another idea might be one of those coffee cup warmers with maybe a metal sheet on it first. I have never tried that.

In another few weeks or so our nights will return to balmy 60's (18C) and daytime temps in the closed garage will swell into the 90's (30C +) and then flowing is not a problem. Keeping sweat off the plane is. ;)

Bets wishes,
Jeff

[stephen.s1]

Here is where the SB is as of this morning.

Wings have been fitted. Outer panels are made, but not yet fitted to the inner panels.

Spoiler bays/framing/blades ready for hinging. (I'll use 1 oz FG wiped with thin epoxy) Spoiler electrics are soldered and potted into the wing root and fuse. The spoilers will be activated by the push of a servo arm, and returned to rest by the tug of a small rubber band.

All (3 ) movable hatches are fitted and rough sanded.

Stab is shaped, sanded, and hinged.

Rudder is reshaped but not yet smoothed or hinged.

Here's the spoiler blade flopped open. Showing servo mounting panel and framing.

[stephen.s1]

Wing/fuse w/ glimpse of servo connectors.

[stephen.s1]

O/A views

[stephen.s1]

Same kinda view

[mgardner]

Hey stephen.s1..did you hard mount the servo connections for the spoilers? What connectors did you use...

Looks good..

Mark

[fprintf]

Look at all those fuses in the background!!!

[stephen.s1]

Mark, I kinda favor Molex connectors similar to those shown on http://www.mouser.com/catalog/617/747.pdf
They have about a 1/2" reach and a pitch dim. that's easy to solder to. I try to hard mount all my servo/wing/fuse connections. Makes life simpler on the field.


All those fuses have wings... Even the ones that aren't in the background... ;)

[mhmitchell333]

Nice photos too!

Is the sky bird a stretched BOT? Can this aircraft be lauched via histart. No winch, no club, cannot justify winch for just me.

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by mhmitchell333
Nice photos too!

Is the sky bird a stretched BOT? Can this aircraft be lauched via histart. No winch, no club, cannot justify winch for just me.

It can be done, but it takes a very strong high start. You are launching a 132" , 80 to 90+ ounce plane. No, it only remotely looks like a BOT, no comparison. The Skybird will take an extremely hard winch launch, and is 15" bigger span than the BOT. The SB is a much better flyer for all conditions. You would be better off to build the 100" Big Bird for high start use. It does very well from a high start. Launches high, good flyer Bill G.

www.skybench.com Big Bird 100"

[stephen.s1]

Here're two shots of the completed bird.

Wings are covered with that inexpensive, thin, light and strong stuff that's made for laminating documents. Available from a free flight supply place.

Fuse bottom has a CF nose skid for the first 3-4 inches. The bottom is then covered to about 2/3 aft with 1 oz fg bonded with System Three epoxy (thanks to the person who reccomended it). The rest of the plane has 3-4 coats of water-base urethane.

Those black lines in the tips are CF trimmings from the spar system. They're about .007" x 1/8". I cut a slot with a Zona saw just a tad less than 1/8" deep. Top and Bottom. Faired everything, and have the stiffest wingtips in creation... :)

As it sits, with trimming ballast sufficient for a conservative CG, it weighs 72 oz ready to rock'n roll.

When the wind goes down, I'll send it up for it's first flight.

It's been fun.

S

[stephen.s1]

and the other side...

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by stephen.s1
Here're two shots of the completed bird.


As it sits, with trimming ballast sufficient for a conservative CG, it weighs 72 oz ready to rock'n roll.

When the wind goes down, I'll send it up for it's first flight.

It's been fun.

S

Very nice Stephen, did you weigh it with both wing rods in place? They weigh 9.5 ounces together. Ray H. sometimes fly's his with one steel rod, or one steel and one carbon, to save weight.
We weighed Ray's SB at Muncie last year, and with one rod, and no spoilers, it weighed 70 ounces. I can't build that light. :D
At 1340 sq. in., it will carry a lot of weight, or not. :) Bill G.

[stephen.s1]

Thanks Bill,

That's with BOTH wing rods in place. With 2 rods, I believe they should be CF. I never weighed the wing rods. knew they were heavy though...

Spoilers are CF sheet, MPX servos; direct acting and as was previously mentioned, rubber band returns.

I'm sure it'll carry weight. 3-5 lbs... :)

S

[gdjsky01]

Beeeeyooootiful. :D What in goodness sakes did you cover it with again? Laminating film? Where'd that idea come from? :confused: :cool:

Steven I love to get the full resolution pictures to study a bit more. And the radio installation? If a hassle, NBD. Don't do it. But otherwise send em to jgortatows at aol dot com.

Now go find some lift! :D

All youse guys seem to build soooo fast! How long did it take start to finish? And do you work? :D :D

Of course here in SoCal there is no building season. I suppose if I were to stop flying on weekends I might actually have more time to finish the 2m Gnome I am building and retire the Easy Answer. :D Such problems aye? :D

Best wishes.
Jeff

[fprintf]

Not all of us basement dwellers build quickly. I am just starting the last tip panel of my Marauder and it seems like it is taking forever (and getting heavier as I go along) since I started this build in early February.

[stephen.s1]

Thanks Jeff.

The film is sold by some guy who markets free-flight stuff. It's half the weight of monocote and probably stronger.

Retired here, so finding time to build is no hassle. It's beginning to feel like there's NO flying season. Wx cold and windy.

I'll pop a few shots and send 'em off to you. They are HUGE files at full resolution.

Google free flight and see what turns up.

I'll do the same and if there's something that rings a bell, I'll be back.

http://www.modelresearchlabs.com/current_product_listing_and_pric.htm

It's item seven. Great guy to do biz with.



Steve

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by stephen.s1
Thanks Jeff.

The film is sold by some guy who markets free-flight stuff. It's half the weight of monocote and probably stronger.

Google free flight and see what turns up.

Steve

You can also pick out what you want from the supplier also.
500 ft rolls for about $20 .
http://www.laminatorwarehouse.com/doculam_coverlam.html
Look under lam. films for documentation.
My neighbor (2 miles :-) Denny at www.polecataero.com used to handle it also. Bill G.

[stephen.s1]

Say hi to Denny for me.

And, outrageous pricing on that covering!!

Almost, not quite, but almost enuff to make me give up on moldies... :)

[fprintf]

It seems to me that this stuff is unbelievably cheap! 500' of the stuff (plus shipping) is actually quite reasonable. Since I don't particularly care for the bare-wood look, I'd have to consider painting the film in some fashion. Will Krylon on the adhesive side work?

Also, can someone tell me exactly what to order from the Laminator Warehouse as a suitable replacement for Ultracote/Oracover? I am assuming 1.5mil is the right thickness, but which kind and what is a good working width?

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by fprintf


Also, can someone tell me exactly what to order from the Laminator Warehouse as a suitable replacement for Ultracote/Oracover? I am assuming 1.5mil is the right thickness, but which kind and what is a good working width?

Not sure about what to use for painting. We first heard of the Doculam when we got some from Tom Hunt a few years ago, with a couple of his Stix series planes. We used it on the light weight electric planes like the SloMoWatt, DimWatt, etc. We found out that the local high school used a bunch, and threw out the end of rolls when they got down to 10-20 feet. We got an employee to save some for us, instead of throwing it out. We all used it for a while. Ultracote is 26" wide, but I would go with 25", and check with someone else as to which one to buy. If you know a school employee, see if they use it, and get a sample. Bill G.

[Hawksnest]

Originally posted by fprintf
Will Krylon on the adhesive side work?



We got some interesting looking planes by coloring the bare wood with magic markers before covering with Doculam. Doing just the top of the ribs & LE/TE works for one. Also, no weight gain. Works for small planes, don't know about the big ones. I just use transparent Ultracote lite now :D Bill

[soarrich]

Yea, that's just what my plane looks like under the opaque covering, NOT!

Nice plane!

Opaque Richie.

[gdjsky01]

The web site Steve mentioned gives information on painting.