Slope Nut
Jul 05, 2003, 01:00 AM
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Field1.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Field1_t.jpg"></a><br><br>
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<p><strong>Specifications</strong></p>
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<p><strong>Wingspan:</strong></p>
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<p>2M</p>
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<p><strong>Wing Area:</strong></p>
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<p>sq. inches</p>
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<p><strong>Airfoil:</strong></p>
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<p>SD 7037</p>
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<p><strong>Flying Weight:</strong></p>
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<p>3.48lbs.</p>
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<p><strong>Provided Motor:</strong></p>
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<p>AXI 2820/10</p>
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<p><strong>Esc:</strong></p>
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<p>Jeti 40-3P</p>
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<p><strong>Propeller:</strong></p>
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<p>Aeronaut 12x8 Folding</p>
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<p><strong>Battery:</strong></p>
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<p>8x1700CP</p>
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<p><strong>Servos:</strong></p>
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<p>2xHS-81; 2xHS-55</p>
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<p><strong>Manufacturer:</strong></p>
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<p>RCM Pelikan</p>
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<p><strong>Available From:</strong></p>
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<p>Hobby Lobby International, Inc.</p>
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<big><b>Introduction</b></big>
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My very first forays into RC aircraft came from the venerable Gentle Lady sailplane that so many of us first took flight with. I was hypnotized by searching for those elusive thermals, and controlling a completely quiet, and elegant aircraft. I flew only RC sailplanes for the first 3 years in the hobby, then life took over and I sadly gave up flying. I began again once I finished graduate school, and retuned to sailplanes. It was about this time that I learned about electric aircraft. I gave up on sailplanes again, and wished I had kept one around for those lazy flying days during warm summer months. This time though, I didn't want a complete floater. The sailplane I would rather have could be flown on high wind days, and have great energy retention. I wanted a sailplane with some "kick". Thankfully, Hobby Lobby came to my rescue!
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There is no comparison to getting a package from Hobby Lobby. The HUGE box that adorned my doorstep gave me the "kid-on-Christmas" feeling. As always, Hobby Lobby double boxed the Filip 600 Sport which prevented any shipping damage to the airframe. Also contained within the box, kindly provided for this review, were the motor, speed controller, servos, servo extension, battery pack, and folding propeller. After wrestling the large box into my house and forcing it to give up the goodies, I went straight for the Filip's box. Here is what you get.
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<big><b>Kit Contents</b></big>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-001x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-001x_t.jpg"></a></p>
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This airframe is astonishingly high quality. The wings are foam core pre-sheeted with what appears to be an obechi-type veneer. The wings are then covered in yellow and red Oracover, and the ailerons are installed and pre-hinged with hinge tape. The fuselage is gel coated fiberglass, with a pre-trimmed and molded plastic canopy hatch. The horizontal and rudder are balsa sheet with large holes cored from them and covered in Oracover. The elevator is installed and hinged to the horizontal with hinge tape. Also the builder is provided with a nice hardware bag containing all the little bits to assemble the airframe, push rods and sleeves, and a steel wing joiner. Finally, the kit comes with aileron servo hatch covers which, upon closer inspection are made from light fiberglass, and not vacu-formed plastic! This is a really nice touch. The instruction booklet is somewhat lacking, but there is little to do here. Another nice touch is the setup sheet that walks you through proper control/balance setup for flight.
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The other neat thing about this ship is that, with the removal of four screws, you can pack the airframe back into its original box for storage. Very nice for those road trips I will be taking this summer! So, lets roll up our sleeves and have at it!
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<big><b>Assembly</b></big>
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<b>Wings</b>
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Before any other assembly can take place, the servo extension leads and servos need to be installed in each wing panel. Each wing panel has a pre-scored circle which must be cut out and the underlying foam removed to create a servo pocket. The wing root has a pre-drilled hole for the servo extension to run.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-003x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-003x_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-004x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-004x_t.jpg"></a></p>
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I ran into one problem here. The wing has a plastic tube imbedded into it to act as a conduit for your extension. The problem is that the tube is a smaller diameter than the servo extension plugs, so the plugs won't fit into the tube. I generally run my own servo wire anyway, and solder my extensions directly to the servos, so this wasn't a big problem for me. The servo wire pulls through nicely once you snip off one of the ends. With that done, I centered my servos and installed them into the servo bays with Goop, after wrapping them with masking tape.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-005x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-005x_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-006x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-006x_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-007x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-007x_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-008x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-008x_t.jpg"></a></p>
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To hook up the servos to the ailerons, I chose to deviate slightly from the provided hardware. I really like the adjustable connectors that Hobby Lobby sells. These connectors make installation and adjustment a snap. I bent a Z bend in one end of the aileron control rod, attached the Hobby Lobby connector, and attached it to the aileron control horn. I attached the aileron control horn to the aileron with thin CA. I put a small piece of shrink tubing on the Z bend side to eliminate the slop that I had from using a smaller diameter control rod. The provided servo covers, while very high quality, were not tall enough to allow the servo horn to move freely, so I chose to cover the servos with some spare Ultracote I had in the shop.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/aileroninstall.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/aileroninstall_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/aileroninstall2.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/aileroninstall2_t.jpg"></a></p>
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Next you must join the wing panels together with the steel joiner and center the wing on the saddle. Mark the centerline of the saddle and drill through the leading edge fuselage area for each wing dowel. It may be easier to mark on the fuse where the leading edge of the wing touches the fuselage, and drill from the wing saddle area instead. I didn't have a long enough drill bit to allow drilling from the canopy side, but drilling from the wing saddle side worked just fine.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/dowelholes.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/dowelholes_t.jpg"></a></p>
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With the fuselage dowel holes drilled, I then laid the wing back onto the fuselage and marked on the wing leading edge for the dowel holes. I drilled these out, and epoxied the dowels into the wing.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/wingdowel.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/wingdowel_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/dowelepoxy.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/dowelepoxy_t.jpg"></a></p>
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Once the epoxy dries, install the wing to the fuselage and mark through the trailing edge bolt holes onto the fuselage and drill. Enlarge these holes to the outer diameter of the provided blind nuts. The blind nuts are mounted to a piece of hardwood, which is then epoxied into the fuselage where you drilled these holes. Transfer the bolt holes from the fuse to the piece of hardwood, drill them out, and use medium CA to attach them to the wood. Epoxy this assembly to the inside of the fuse and your done.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/saddleholes.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/saddleholes_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/wingboltblock.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/wingboltblock_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<b>Motor Mount</b>
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The included ply motor mount fit the provide AXI motor perfectly. However, the motor mount was too large to fit into the nose of the fuselage. I drew a reference line around the entire mount about 3/16 inside the edge. I then sanded the mount with a sanding block, frequently checking the fit. I mounted the motor to the mount, and then slid the motor/mount into the fuse from the canopy area. I then slid the propeller onto the motor to set the proper side and down thrust. I generally do this in order to have a reference point for the thrust angles. With the angle set, I tack glued the mount in place with thin CA. I then used medium CA to permanently fix the mount in place.
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<b>Horizontal Attachment</b>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/verticalparts.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/verticalparts_t.jpg"></a></p>
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The horizontal has the elevator attached and pre-hinged. There are two holes pre-drilled into the horizontal in which you insert two aluminum sleeves. I found the center line of the horizontal saddle, and, using the horizontal, marked through the pre-drilled holes onto the fuselage. I then drilled the holes into the fuse. As with the wing bolts, the horizontal also uses a piece of hardwood to hold the blind nuts, and this is then epoxied into the tail saddle. However, the forward pre-drilled hole places the hole in the tail saddle so far forward that the hardwood block doesn't fit. I drilled another hole about 1 inch aft of the original pre-drilled hole, and re-drilled the tail saddle. This worked perfectly.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/verticalholes.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/verticalholes_t.jpg"></a></p>
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Transfer the holes to the hardwood block, drill the block for the blind nuts and use medium CA to attach the blind nuts. Epoxy this assembly into the tail saddle. I used thin CA to glue the aluminum sleeves into the horizontal and then attached the horizontal to the fuse with the provided nylon bolts.
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<b>Pushrods</b>
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The provided pushrods and sleeves are VERY flexible. So much so that they require support to prevent them from flexing when in use. There are two ways to go about this. First, you can run the outer control sleeves in the fuse where you want them to lay, then using a long stick, push chunks of Styrofoam into the fuse at three inch intervals. This provides a press-fit support system. I chose the second option, which is to run the sleeves, and then attach them to the fuselage using a long stick to which I applied some RC-56 canopy glue. I smeared the glue over the sleeves and onto the fuse at three equal intervals. A couple of hours later and the rods no longer flexed.
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The rudder push rod exits out the side of the vertical. The elevator rod must bend upwards towards the elevator, and be secured where the rudder spar post is later attached. I used a small scrap of balsa with a hole drilled in it to provide the required support.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/rudder.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/rudder_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/elevator.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/elevator_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<b>Servo & Battery Tray</b>
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Install your servos into the tray. The servo tray may need to be slightly modified to fit your servos. The provided HS-81 servos were slightly larger, but it only took a couple minutes with the scroll saw to adjust the tray. For convenience I also installed the switch for the controller onto the tray. This is then slid into the canopy area using figure F3 in the instruction booklet as a general placement reference. Don't glue it into the fuse yet!
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/compartment.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/compartment_t.jpg"></a></p>
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My kit did not include the battery tray (identified as part no. 11 in the instructions), so I just made my own from my scrap box. Build up the tray, and attach the battery to it with Velcro. Attach the battery pack to the tray, and slide this into the fuselage, then attach the wing. Find the recommended CG of 76-84 mm from the leading edge and balance the airframe by moving both the battery tray and servo tray inside the fuse. Once you have an optimal balance, mark and permanently attach the trays to the fuse with medium CA. I angled my battery tray upwards with the use of a hardwood cross member attached to both sides of the fuse. The tray rests on this piece of wood to keep the battery out of the way of the servos.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/compartment2.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/compartment2_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<b>Canopy</b>
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Nothing complex about this part, just attach the fore and aft canopy retention tabs according to the instructions and fit to the fuselage.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/canopy.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/canopy_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<big><b>Flying</b></big>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Field1.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Field1_t.jpg"></a></p>
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/field2.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/field2_t.jpg"></a></p>
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On the morning of the maiden flights, conditions were less than ideal. Winds were roughly 15 mph with gusts of 20 mph, it was overcast, and cold. I had cycled the provided 1700CP pack twice to make sure I had a good charge for the first flight, powered up and had a friend launch the Filip at a slightly higher than horizon level. The power of the motor combined with the clean airframe put the Filip nearly out of sight in less than 30 seconds! I would recommend increasing the down thrust 1 degree more than the instructions state if you use the recommended power system. I added quite a bit of down elevator at full throttle to prevent too steep a climb. Once at altitude, I shut off power and trimmed for a level flight, and tested the stall characteristics. With the recommended throws, this ship just mushes along without tip stalling. I should also note that the Filip didn't seem to mind the windy conditions one bit.
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Nice coordinated turns should be achieved by mixing in some rudder to the ailerons. I would also suggest increasing the aileron throws about 1/8 of an inch over the recommended throws. I was able to climb to altitude 5 or 6 times on one charge and fly with good duration, considering I had less than ideal thermal conditions. What thermal activity existed was signaled very well by the Filip. I didn't time my flight, but I estimate that I flew for about 25 minutes on this one charge. Not too shabby! I passed the sticks off to a member of the local sailplane club and he was equally impressed with the performance of the Filip.
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When its time to land, get ready for a LOOOOOOONG approach. The Filip is clean and efficient, so you need to be prepared when you setup for landing. I programmed my radio for spoilerons to help kill some of the lift over the wing and aid in a shorter landing approach. I started with about 25 degrees of reflex in the ailerons but I will be increasing them to 40 degrees for future flights. Even with the spoilerons deployed, the glide path was pretty long, but did shorten the landing approach compared to not using any at all. I quickly re-charged the flight pack and put the Filip back into the air.
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<big><b>Conclusion</b></big>
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<p>
The Filip 600 Sport is a great buy. The quality and completeness of the kit is exceptional, and the flight characteristics are very honest. Best of all, you can break the Filip down and store or transport it in its original box! The minor issues noted have been brought to the attention of the manufacturer and are being addressed for future kits. If you are looking for an electric glider with good looks, ease of assembly, and solid performance, the Filip is just the ship for you.
</p>
</blockquote>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" align="center" bgcolor="#000000" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="100%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" colspan="2">
<br>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Field1.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Field1_t.jpg"></a><br><br>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" colspan="2">
<p><strong>Specifications</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Wingspan:</strong></p>
</td>
<td align="left" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>2M</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Wing Area:</strong></p>
</td>
<td align="left" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>sq. inches</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Airfoil:</strong></p>
</td>
<td align="left" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>SD 7037</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Flying Weight:</strong></p>
</td>
<td align="left" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>3.48lbs.</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Provided Motor:</strong></p>
</td>
<td bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>AXI 2820/10</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Esc:</strong></p>
</td>
<td bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>Jeti 40-3P</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Propeller:</strong></p>
</td>
<td align="left" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>Aeronaut 12x8 Folding</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Battery:</strong></p>
</td>
<td align="left" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>8x1700CP</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Servos:</strong></p>
</td>
<td bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>2xHS-81; 2xHS-55</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Manufacturer:</strong></p>
</td>
<td bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>RCM Pelikan</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="right" bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p><strong>Available From:</strong></p>
</td>
<td bgcolor="#E6E6E6" valign="top">
<p>Hobby Lobby International, Inc.</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<p>
<big><b>Introduction</b></big>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
My very first forays into RC aircraft came from the venerable Gentle Lady sailplane that so many of us first took flight with. I was hypnotized by searching for those elusive thermals, and controlling a completely quiet, and elegant aircraft. I flew only RC sailplanes for the first 3 years in the hobby, then life took over and I sadly gave up flying. I began again once I finished graduate school, and retuned to sailplanes. It was about this time that I learned about electric aircraft. I gave up on sailplanes again, and wished I had kept one around for those lazy flying days during warm summer months. This time though, I didn't want a complete floater. The sailplane I would rather have could be flown on high wind days, and have great energy retention. I wanted a sailplane with some "kick". Thankfully, Hobby Lobby came to my rescue!
</p>
<p>
There is no comparison to getting a package from Hobby Lobby. The HUGE box that adorned my doorstep gave me the "kid-on-Christmas" feeling. As always, Hobby Lobby double boxed the Filip 600 Sport which prevented any shipping damage to the airframe. Also contained within the box, kindly provided for this review, were the motor, speed controller, servos, servo extension, battery pack, and folding propeller. After wrestling the large box into my house and forcing it to give up the goodies, I went straight for the Filip's box. Here is what you get.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
<big><b>Kit Contents</b></big>
</p>
<p>
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<tbody>
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<td>
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<tbody>
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<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-001x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-001x_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
This airframe is astonishingly high quality. The wings are foam core pre-sheeted with what appears to be an obechi-type veneer. The wings are then covered in yellow and red Oracover, and the ailerons are installed and pre-hinged with hinge tape. The fuselage is gel coated fiberglass, with a pre-trimmed and molded plastic canopy hatch. The horizontal and rudder are balsa sheet with large holes cored from them and covered in Oracover. The elevator is installed and hinged to the horizontal with hinge tape. Also the builder is provided with a nice hardware bag containing all the little bits to assemble the airframe, push rods and sleeves, and a steel wing joiner. Finally, the kit comes with aileron servo hatch covers which, upon closer inspection are made from light fiberglass, and not vacu-formed plastic! This is a really nice touch. The instruction booklet is somewhat lacking, but there is little to do here. Another nice touch is the setup sheet that walks you through proper control/balance setup for flight.
</p>
<p>
The other neat thing about this ship is that, with the removal of four screws, you can pack the airframe back into its original box for storage. Very nice for those road trips I will be taking this summer! So, lets roll up our sleeves and have at it!
</p>
<p>
<big><b>Assembly</b></big>
</p>
<p>
<b>Wings</b>
<br>
Before any other assembly can take place, the servo extension leads and servos need to be installed in each wing panel. Each wing panel has a pre-scored circle which must be cut out and the underlying foam removed to create a servo pocket. The wing root has a pre-drilled hole for the servo extension to run.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
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<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
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<td align="center" width="50%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-003x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-003x_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
<td align="center" width="50%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-004x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-004x_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
I ran into one problem here. The wing has a plastic tube imbedded into it to act as a conduit for your extension. The problem is that the tube is a smaller diameter than the servo extension plugs, so the plugs won't fit into the tube. I generally run my own servo wire anyway, and solder my extensions directly to the servos, so this wasn't a big problem for me. The servo wire pulls through nicely once you snip off one of the ends. With that done, I centered my servos and installed them into the servo bays with Goop, after wrapping them with masking tape.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
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<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
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<td align="center" width="50%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-005x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-005x_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
<td align="center" width="50%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-006x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-006x_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="50%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-007x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-007x_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
<td align="center" width="50%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-008x.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Mvc-008x_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
To hook up the servos to the ailerons, I chose to deviate slightly from the provided hardware. I really like the adjustable connectors that Hobby Lobby sells. These connectors make installation and adjustment a snap. I bent a Z bend in one end of the aileron control rod, attached the Hobby Lobby connector, and attached it to the aileron control horn. I attached the aileron control horn to the aileron with thin CA. I put a small piece of shrink tubing on the Z bend side to eliminate the slop that I had from using a smaller diameter control rod. The provided servo covers, while very high quality, were not tall enough to allow the servo horn to move freely, so I chose to cover the servos with some spare Ultracote I had in the shop.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="50%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/aileroninstall.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/aileroninstall_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
<td align="center" width="50%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/aileroninstall2.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/aileroninstall2_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
Next you must join the wing panels together with the steel joiner and center the wing on the saddle. Mark the centerline of the saddle and drill through the leading edge fuselage area for each wing dowel. It may be easier to mark on the fuse where the leading edge of the wing touches the fuselage, and drill from the wing saddle area instead. I didn't have a long enough drill bit to allow drilling from the canopy side, but drilling from the wing saddle side worked just fine.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/dowelholes.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/dowelholes_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
With the fuselage dowel holes drilled, I then laid the wing back onto the fuselage and marked on the wing leading edge for the dowel holes. I drilled these out, and epoxied the dowels into the wing.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/wingdowel.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/wingdowel_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/dowelepoxy.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/dowelepoxy_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
Once the epoxy dries, install the wing to the fuselage and mark through the trailing edge bolt holes onto the fuselage and drill. Enlarge these holes to the outer diameter of the provided blind nuts. The blind nuts are mounted to a piece of hardwood, which is then epoxied into the fuselage where you drilled these holes. Transfer the bolt holes from the fuse to the piece of hardwood, drill them out, and use medium CA to attach them to the wood. Epoxy this assembly to the inside of the fuse and your done.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
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<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/saddleholes.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/saddleholes_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/wingboltblock.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/wingboltblock_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
<b>Motor Mount</b>
<br>
The included ply motor mount fit the provide AXI motor perfectly. However, the motor mount was too large to fit into the nose of the fuselage. I drew a reference line around the entire mount about 3/16 inside the edge. I then sanded the mount with a sanding block, frequently checking the fit. I mounted the motor to the mount, and then slid the motor/mount into the fuse from the canopy area. I then slid the propeller onto the motor to set the proper side and down thrust. I generally do this in order to have a reference point for the thrust angles. With the angle set, I tack glued the mount in place with thin CA. I then used medium CA to permanently fix the mount in place.
</p>
<p>
<b>Horizontal Attachment</b>
<br>
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/verticalparts.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/verticalparts_t.jpg"></a></p>
<p></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
The horizontal has the elevator attached and pre-hinged. There are two holes pre-drilled into the horizontal in which you insert two aluminum sleeves. I found the center line of the horizontal saddle, and, using the horizontal, marked through the pre-drilled holes onto the fuselage. I then drilled the holes into the fuse. As with the wing bolts, the horizontal also uses a piece of hardwood to hold the blind nuts, and this is then epoxied into the tail saddle. However, the forward pre-drilled hole places the hole in the tail saddle so far forward that the hardwood block doesn't fit. I drilled another hole about 1 inch aft of the original pre-drilled hole, and re-drilled the tail saddle. This worked perfectly.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
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<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/verticalholes.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/verticalholes_t.jpg"></a></p>
<p></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
Transfer the holes to the hardwood block, drill the block for the blind nuts and use medium CA to attach the blind nuts. Epoxy this assembly into the tail saddle. I used thin CA to glue the aluminum sleeves into the horizontal and then attached the horizontal to the fuse with the provided nylon bolts.
</p>
<p>
<b>Pushrods</b>
<br>
The provided pushrods and sleeves are VERY flexible. So much so that they require support to prevent them from flexing when in use. There are two ways to go about this. First, you can run the outer control sleeves in the fuse where you want them to lay, then using a long stick, push chunks of Styrofoam into the fuse at three inch intervals. This provides a press-fit support system. I chose the second option, which is to run the sleeves, and then attach them to the fuselage using a long stick to which I applied some RC-56 canopy glue. I smeared the glue over the sleeves and onto the fuse at three equal intervals. A couple of hours later and the rods no longer flexed.
</p>
<p>
The rudder push rod exits out the side of the vertical. The elevator rod must bend upwards towards the elevator, and be secured where the rudder spar post is later attached. I used a small scrap of balsa with a hole drilled in it to provide the required support.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
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<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
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<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/rudder.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/rudder_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/elevator.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/elevator_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
<b>Servo & Battery Tray</b>
<br>
Install your servos into the tray. The servo tray may need to be slightly modified to fit your servos. The provided HS-81 servos were slightly larger, but it only took a couple minutes with the scroll saw to adjust the tray. For convenience I also installed the switch for the controller onto the tray. This is then slid into the canopy area using figure F3 in the instruction booklet as a general placement reference. Don't glue it into the fuse yet!
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/compartment.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/compartment_t.jpg"></a></p>
<p></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
My kit did not include the battery tray (identified as part no. 11 in the instructions), so I just made my own from my scrap box. Build up the tray, and attach the battery to it with Velcro. Attach the battery pack to the tray, and slide this into the fuselage, then attach the wing. Find the recommended CG of 76-84 mm from the leading edge and balance the airframe by moving both the battery tray and servo tray inside the fuse. Once you have an optimal balance, mark and permanently attach the trays to the fuse with medium CA. I angled my battery tray upwards with the use of a hardwood cross member attached to both sides of the fuse. The tray rests on this piece of wood to keep the battery out of the way of the servos.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/compartment2.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/compartment2_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
<b>Canopy</b>
<br>
Nothing complex about this part, just attach the fore and aft canopy retention tabs according to the instructions and fit to the fuselage.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/canopy.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/canopy_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<p>
<big><b>Flying</b></big>
</p>
<p>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" align="center" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Field1.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/Field1_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
<td align="center" width="100%" >
<p>
<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/field2.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/may/filip600/field2_t.jpg"></a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
On the morning of the maiden flights, conditions were less than ideal. Winds were roughly 15 mph with gusts of 20 mph, it was overcast, and cold. I had cycled the provided 1700CP pack twice to make sure I had a good charge for the first flight, powered up and had a friend launch the Filip at a slightly higher than horizon level. The power of the motor combined with the clean airframe put the Filip nearly out of sight in less than 30 seconds! I would recommend increasing the down thrust 1 degree more than the instructions state if you use the recommended power system. I added quite a bit of down elevator at full throttle to prevent too steep a climb. Once at altitude, I shut off power and trimmed for a level flight, and tested the stall characteristics. With the recommended throws, this ship just mushes along without tip stalling. I should also note that the Filip didn't seem to mind the windy conditions one bit.
</p>
<p>
Nice coordinated turns should be achieved by mixing in some rudder to the ailerons. I would also suggest increasing the aileron throws about 1/8 of an inch over the recommended throws. I was able to climb to altitude 5 or 6 times on one charge and fly with good duration, considering I had less than ideal thermal conditions. What thermal activity existed was signaled very well by the Filip. I didn't time my flight, but I estimate that I flew for about 25 minutes on this one charge. Not too shabby! I passed the sticks off to a member of the local sailplane club and he was equally impressed with the performance of the Filip.
</p>
<p>
When its time to land, get ready for a LOOOOOOONG approach. The Filip is clean and efficient, so you need to be prepared when you setup for landing. I programmed my radio for spoilerons to help kill some of the lift over the wing and aid in a shorter landing approach. I started with about 25 degrees of reflex in the ailerons but I will be increasing them to 40 degrees for future flights. Even with the spoilerons deployed, the glide path was pretty long, but did shorten the landing approach compared to not using any at all. I quickly re-charged the flight pack and put the Filip back into the air.
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>
<big><b>Conclusion</b></big>
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
The Filip 600 Sport is a great buy. The quality and completeness of the kit is exceptional, and the flight characteristics are very honest. Best of all, you can break the Filip down and store or transport it in its original box! The minor issues noted have been brought to the attention of the manufacturer and are being addressed for future kits. If you are looking for an electric glider with good looks, ease of assembly, and solid performance, the Filip is just the ship for you.
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