Re: Oy. WTF is going on?

[kenji]

In article <a6b3d523.0312232021.72bb89bb@posting.google.com>,
lperry@fchs.com (larry) wrote:

> http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&threadm=a6b3d523.0307260743
> .5b4e7fc%40posting.google.com&rnum=3&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dtamiya%2Bf201%26hl%3De
> n%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26selm%3Da6b3d523.0307260743.5b4e7fc%2540posting .google
> .com%26rnum%3D3


Hey Larry...helpful hint:

http://www.tinyurl.com

[Rick Russell]

In article <a6b3d523.0312232021.72bb89bb@posting.google.com>,
larry <lperry@fchs.com> wrote:
> require 15 freakin' bearings. Could you PLEASE explain, just a little
> bit,. what "slip" means? Nope. Apparently not.

According to some info I found, the F201 uses ball diffs front and
rear. The diffs are adjustable, meaning that you can tighten a screw
or nut that mashses the entire diff together.

So, do this:

(1) Remove both differentials.

(2) Get a pair of scissors.

(3) Place a differential between the scissors, so that the blades of
the scissors are seated into the slots of both outdrive cups. If you
do it right, it will look like the scissors are cutting into the
outdrives.

(4) Grab the main gear (the big, wide, round gear) of the
differential and try to turn it with your fingers, while the outdrives
are locked in position on the scissor blades.

(5) Can you turn the main gear easily? If so, follow the kit
instructions to tighten the differential. That probably means
inserting a hex key into one of the outdrives and tightening it, while
keeping the other outdrive locked up. But it's been years since I
adjusted a Tamiya diff, so check your manual.

(6) Keep tightening until you can _barely_ turn the main gear with
the outdrives locked up. Then tighten it just a little bit more (maybe
1/4 turn or 1/2 turn) and you're done.

(7) Grab an outdrive in each hand and turn them opposite
directions. They should turn smoothly in opposite directions with
little resistance. If there is a lot of resistance, then the diff is
too tight.

(8) Repeat above with second differential. Traditionally, the front
differential is adjusted to be slightly looser than the rear, for
better front traction in the turns. But for initial testing, you
probably want them both very tight.

> I do and whoa! nothing works. WTF? Is it because I tried to pierce
> the wires? I doubt it, not even the motor works (not that I tried
> THAT before, but still) nope, nothing.

Try checking all the key spots with a voltmeter, or a little 6V light
bulb, until you find the power loss.

> controller well enough to even tell if it is plugged in correctly, and
> am taking as given that it was OK to hook up the servo to the receiver
> despite the warnings about crossing polarities and and and.

Reversing polarity on the servo probably won't hurt it -- I think they
have a diode to prevent that sort of thing.

Rick R.

[Rick Russell]

In article <a6b3d523.0312232021.72bb89bb@posting.google.com>,
larry <lperry@fchs.com> wrote:
> require 15 freakin' bearings. Could you PLEASE explain, just a little
> bit,. what "slip" means? Nope. Apparently not.

According to some info I found, the F201 uses ball diffs front and
rear. The diffs are adjustable, meaning that you can tighten a screw
or nut that mashses the entire diff together.

So, do this:

(1) Remove both differentials.

(2) Get a pair of scissors.

(3) Place a differential between the scissors, so that the blades of
the scissors are seated into the slots of both outdrive cups. If you
do it right, it will look like the scissors are cutting into the
outdrives.

(4) Grab the main gear (the big, wide, round gear) of the
differential and try to turn it with your fingers, while the outdrives
are locked in position on the scissor blades.

(5) Can you turn the main gear easily? If so, follow the kit
instructions to tighten the differential. That probably means
inserting a hex key into one of the outdrives and tightening it, while
keeping the other outdrive locked up. But it's been years since I
adjusted a Tamiya diff, so check your manual.

(6) Keep tightening until you can _barely_ turn the main gear with
the outdrives locked up. Then tighten it just a little bit more (maybe
1/4 turn or 1/2 turn) and you're done.

(7) Grab an outdrive in each hand and turn them opposite
directions. They should turn smoothly in opposite directions with
little resistance. If there is a lot of resistance, then the diff is
too tight.

(8) Repeat above with second differential. Traditionally, the front
differential is adjusted to be slightly looser than the rear, for
better front traction in the turns. But for initial testing, you
probably want them both very tight.

> I do and whoa! nothing works. WTF? Is it because I tried to pierce
> the wires? I doubt it, not even the motor works (not that I tried
> THAT before, but still) nope, nothing.

Try checking all the key spots with a voltmeter, or a little 6V light
bulb, until you find the power loss.

> controller well enough to even tell if it is plugged in correctly, and
> am taking as given that it was OK to hook up the servo to the receiver
> despite the warnings about crossing polarities and and and.

Reversing polarity on the servo probably won't hurt it -- I think they
have a diode to prevent that sort of thing.

Rick R.

[larry]

thank you Rick, I appreciate the thoughts.

I will certainly not bother this group again. Best wishes, and a good
holiday to you.

[larry]

thank you Rick, I appreciate the thoughts.

I will certainly not bother this group again. Best wishes, and a good
holiday to you.