SPAD Sailplane plans- 2 meter?

[flashover]

I'm tired of rebuilding my sailplane.Anyone with successful plans?

[woodsy]

There are several slope spand's but no thermal planes i know of, check out the SPAD slopers section from the links at www.spadtothebone.com

[flashover]

I,m specifically looking for a glider.Has anyone had success.

[aeajr]

see if any of these are of interest:

http://www.spadslopers.com/plans.htm

[FrankC29]

You know, this subject has been brought up at RCU, and I initially answered that it probably was not worth trying. After discussing it with other experienced Spad builders, I discovered I was probably wrong. With the use of 2mm coro for the wing (with the same dimensions at a 2m sailpane wing) and the use of micro gear and carbon fiber rod for fuselage, you should be easily able to get under 9 oz/sq. ft. wingloading. You'll have to do some experimenting with the materials, as you would be the first that I know of to try this. One fella says he was succesful with thermaling one of the spad slope designs. He said he built the Ucan-2, and added to the span, and it thermaled well. Maybe he lives in Arizona, I don't know, it seems like that arrangement would be a little heavy.

[lvspark]

No problem.

2 mil wing
Cut the yard stick spar down to 1" root and taper to 1/2" at tips
as frank says, use the CF rod ( wal-mart arrow) for boom
use 4 mil for tail section.

With std servos, rx and battery, wingloading around 8oz.

With micro stuff, I would guess 6-7oz would be possible.

[flashover]

If I use a carbon fiber spar for a fuse what do I mount the radio gear in?

[steve wenban]

I am having sucess thermaling my 2.6 mtr wing as that is pretty much what my slope is best for slope thermal 2.6mtr wing forground 2.0mtr wing back ground

[lvspark]

The CF is for the tail boom only. A coroplast fuse ( or any other cheap, strong, lightweight, roundish thing ) will hold the 2 servos, batt, and rx.

The spar I used is 2 yardsticks glued and screwed.

This one had lots of lift, and had around 8oz WL, but not enough dyhedral for good turns. I would glide a long ways on a hand toss.
I eventually ballasted it and turned into a A/E Sloper. Since it was built so light, it didn't last long on the big NW slopes. Broken spar:mad:

It is a trade off, light weight vs strength

[jrmdjr]

After a long hiatus in computing, but lots of time SPAD thermalling, I found the age old question....can a SPAD thermal.

The answer is YES! Most Definitely! Please refer to the spad showcase for my 2M SPAD-ectra. It is powered by a Magnetic Mayhem motor, uses aluminum channel for a fuse, 2M coro with polyhedral for a wing (slightly longer than 2M), several yardsticks ripped to 7/8 inch, and full size servos for rudder and elevator.

Thermals - YES! I have had over 20 minutes of flight in less than ideal thermal conditions.

Go for it!

Jason

PS LV- ever get the full size glider in the air?

[lvspark]

Well, if it isn't Mr. SPAD Thermal Himself!
Nice to see your still around!

I remember your glider very well. If flashover doesn't have or want an electric set-up, imagine the weight savings, and it should soar even higher!

jrmdjr, do you think a design like yours would balance o.k. without the e-flight equipment?

And yes, the big wing did get in the air...
On the wall of my garage!:D

[jrmdjr]

LVS - probably safest on the wall of the garage!

As far as balance, no worries. The ideal place for the wing to avoid a "squirrely" plane is in the front 1/3 of the fuse. I had to change the location to slightly forward from the above picture, as well as move the battery to the front of the wing (held on by rubberbands on top of the receiver and electric speed controller). I am sure the balancing act can be done, just mount the wing LAST, as we did with the PVC fused spads.

I have yet to venture into Carbon fiber arrow shaft fuses, but the winter is upon us, so who knows! Also, the concept of using my old computers CD burner motor as a brushless is tempting...

Enjoy,
Jason

[flashover]

Sounds interesting, looks good too.there must be something wrong with the server, I keep getting a, cannot find page.I currently have a debonair, but also enjoy silent flight, but after 3 forced landings:eek: with my aspire ep (with resultant damage) I need something I can't hurt till I learn how to get the sailplanes down.

[flashover]

tried again today I still get the file or directory not found.

[lvspark]

It seems the link to rcca is not working...

I boils down to a alum fuse, with 2mm wing and 4mm tail. Pick an airfoil of choice ( by spar height, wing cord, and distance of spar from LE) and go to town.

Good luck!

[flashover]

Aluminum channel, angle or what I'm very new to this did you use a single yardstick spar, did you cut it down how far from the le is the spar and what is the chord I could probably tlar the chord but thickness of the wing and placement of the spar I have no idea since I have n't seen a side view of your design

[jrmdjr]

Flashover,

I will try to resurrect the construction photos, and you should be able to build a ship from them that will do all and more!

If I can just find the storage CD, and figure out what number the pic is --- IMG 0001- IMG 2000 -

Jason

[Aten W Arthog]

I wonder, you could cut the weight of the coroplast 2-meter sailplane's wing in half by making it a Jedelsky-styled foil section, essentially an undercambered one-sided curved (okay, more like bent, diamond-like) flat plate foil. The old timer free flight guys used to make these by mitering a joint between a narrow (front) and a wide (aft) plank, butt-joining these together to make a rough foil shape, then sometimes sanding down the sharp corner off the top joint to get a better curve/transition across the top surface of the wing. Jedelsky wings are light for their size, and the undercambered wing section is good for slow speed high lift thermalling, but there is a drag penalty, and the design is more prone to warping or twisting. This will not be as twist-resistant as a d-tube type 2-sided wing. Perhaps if the coro is thin enough, the leading edge can be folded-under for just an inch or so, and this fold can then contain a spar of carbon tube or yardstick type wood. Also if you made it polyhedral, the extra bends/ folds would add some ridgidity. If I was trying this, I would add false triangular underside ribs/gussetts every so often to the underside to help shape the airfoil and add a little more rigidity without the full weight of a second layer of plastic. If you can find a picture of Scorpio Models (Italy) Quark RC glider, this is a design that may translate to coroplast quite well. Jedelsky wing, profile fuselage with holes cut right thru it for direct sideways mounting of the servos and radio parts. In my version of this, I would create a slip on 3-d nosecone for it from fiberglass, or by gluing/screwing down two large clear bubble canopy sections , one on either side of the profile nose section, to create a fairing over the radio parts and streamline it a bit. You could cut a tow hook shape right out of the coroplast fuse bottom, or. if the fuse is a three-ply sandwhich of coro with the center scetion flutes facing up/down, you could insert a music wire peg/ hook and make it adjustable fore and aft by picking which flute to stuff it into. Make that hook long enough to come out the top, you get a hardpoint to bolt the wing onto, one that transfers launch loads direct to the wing, not the fuse. Neato, huh? If anyone tries it, let me know: this idea is number 25 for building on my over-booked workbench...;-)

[jrmdjr]

No dice with obtaining the construction photos. The old computer isnt being very friendly. I was able to view the folder with the pics, then I tried to burn a cd to no avail, windows explorer crashed, then I tried to save it to my USB flash memory drive, and again windows explorer failure, then the system locked up and no more image. I guess that is why I purchased a Dell 6 months ago.

Sorry to disappoint, but I can go out with the tape measure and try to reverse engineer my SPAD. Just say the word....

Aten, interesting concept, i think employed on the SPA3d and other versions of the later spads. I wonder how it would work on the sailplane? Drag is the enemy of any thermal ship, but certainly worth a try. Go for it!

Jason

[flashover]

Yes,Jason I would appreciate it.But I'm in no hurry as I have a few other projects on the table to clear right now.You know how it is, some honeydos, some I want to do.I think I understand the jedelsky wing as I have a gws tigermoth but I don't think it would work as the tm is extremely draggy.