Keitha
Dec 18, 2003, 09:39 PM
| spec2
| @905425: Red Herring by LiftWorx
| <b>Specifications</b>
|> <b>Wingspan:</b> |< 34 inches
|> <b>Wing area:</b> |< 290 sq. in.
|> <b>Weight:</b> |< 5.5 to 7.5 ounces
|> <b>Radio:</b> |< 2 MX-30 micro servos or similar for the wing, Berg 4 DSP or similar. Transmitter with Elevon Mixing and End-Point Adjustments and/or Dual Rates
|> <b>Battery:</b> |< 110mAh NiCad, 270mAh Nimh, or optional 2 lithium CR-123 camera cells wired in series (disposable)
|> <b>Construction:</b> |< 1.3lb EPP Foam and 1-mill clear tape included in kit
|> <b>Available from:</b> |< <a href="http://www.liftworx.com/">LiftWorx</a>
!Introduction
The first time I saw a Red Herring fly I thought that it looked like a fun glider, and then once I flew my own Red Herring I knew that it was a very fun and versatile glider to fly. Coming in at a bit over 7 ounces, the Red Herring is the lightweight of my quiver and, as such, has some unique flight characteristics and really opens up some fun in light to moderate winds. The Red Herring also is designed to excel using a Side Arm Launching (SAL) technique. Once you get the launch down, the Red Herring is a nimble little thermal hunter. Construction of the Red Herring is a breeze and its two piece design makes it a great travel companion.
!Kit Contents
Despite being packed into a very small box, the Red Herring Kit is surprisingly complete. Except for sandpaper, a cutting instrument, and your glue of choice, everything you need to build the Red Herring comes with the kit. The Red Herring even comes with two different tail feather material choices, light weight balsa/carbon fiber, or durable coroplast with a carbon reinforcing rod. The instruction manual for the Red Herring could be considered the standard by which all should be judged. Scobie Puchtler, the kit re-designer, instruction writer/illustrator, and owner of LiftWorx, leaves no detail of the Red Herring unmentioned. The 27 page instructions cover everything from how to make a handy sanding stick to how to best trim and fly the Red Herring. Scobie even details alternate techniques for building ultra-light vs. durable construction.
!Construction
As with any kit, before starting you should be to familiarize yourself with all the components included, supplies you will need, hardware you plan to install, and the instructions. The first step with the Red Herring is to shape the wing-tips. There is very little shaping to do as wing-tip planform comes precut. You simply blend in the wing-tip airfoil top and bottom by sanding to match the rest of the wing.
Once the wing-tips are sanded to shape, you create a receiver cavity in the root of one of the wings. It is recommended to install the receiver on the side that you will hold during your launches. The Berg 4 DSP is the perfect receiver for this plane. Not only is the Berg Rx lightweight with bullet-proof reliability, the end-plug configuration can really fit into a small cavity.
@905426: Wing root showing Berg 4 DSP and Azar antenna
As previously mentioned, the kit includes and the instructions detail two different vertical fins; one for lightweight and the other for durability. The balsa-carbon vertical fin is ultra light, but is more vulnerable to breakage and more involved to assemble. The coroplast fin is simple to construct and durable, but does add some weight. The nice thing about this kit is that it includes both fins to suite any conditions. With the fin finished, you can sand a small amount of foam from the rear portion of the wing root. This creates a small gap for the Vertical fin to fit into when the wings are joined.
@905427: Coroplast Vertical Fin, note carbon stiffening rod
It is time again to make another decision about durability vs. weight. The kit includes pultruded carbon fiber trailing edge reinforcements. These are to be glued onto the trailing edge of each wing and provide stiffness and durability but add weight behind the Center of Gravity. I chose to add them to my Red Herring, but it is nice to have the option if you really want a lightweight.
<b>Graphics and Covering the Wing</b>
<br>
The Red Herring is a blank canvas when it comes to color and design. The provided covering is clear tape, so anything that you want to draw on the foam will show through. I typically come up with fairly dull color schemes on my planes, but this one begged for a bit of creativity. I used colored markers to draw the eye on the bottom and a light coat of spray paint for everything else. Keep in mind that if you are going for a light weight plane that spray paint adds a bit to it.
@905428: My Eye in the Sky
The Red Herring gets covered relatively early in the build process. Being a two piece wing, you cover each half independently then add your radio gear from the root. Covering the Red Herring is very simple. The kit includes a roll of 3M 1 mil clear tape for the covering. To help adhesion of the clear tape it is a good idea to give first spray a light mist of 3M-77 glue over the wing surface. Then, starting at the trailing edge, you overlap strips of tape alternating top and bottom. The instructions do a great job of illustrating the covering technique and taping pattern. Covering the plane should not take you more then 30 minutes.
@905429: Applying clear tape starting at the trailing edge
<b>Elevons, Push-rods, and Radio Gear</b>
<br>
Once the wing is fully covered/taped, it is time to shape and install the elevons. The instructions detail two methods for shaping the elevons, each has its trade-offs for durability and flight performance. Additionally, you can finish your elevons in a variety of ways. For ultimate durability you can cover them with the 1 mill clear tape. I coated mine with a thinned goop method, which results in a durable yet light elevon. The kit also includes laser-cut ply-wood elevon control horns that are to be glued the root edge of each elevon. Four control horns are included; use one on each side for a light build, or double them up for a more durable configuration. Once the control horns are glued on you can install the elevons to the trailing edge of the Red Herring. Again, the instructions detail how to apply the tape hinges.
@905430: Control horns on each elevon
@905431: Elevon installed
As previously mentioned, the radio gear for the Red Herring is installed from the root of each wing. I used Hitec HS-55s in my Red Herring as they are ample for the job and small enough to fit in the wing. The root installation results in a clean wing surface with no cut-outs or protrusions at all. I cut the foam for a tight fit and used a very small amount of goop to hold the servos in place. I also soldered up a battery pack of 4 x 270mAh Nimh cells. This pack fit ahead of the servos opposite the receiver.
@905432: Servo and Battery installed in the root, note Ľoz lead weight for balance
The final step in construction of the Red Herring is the push-rods. The kit includes lightweight carbon rods, metal retainer clips and heat-shrink tubing. The instructions detail how to use the heat-shrink tubing to secure the retainer clips to the carbon rods. The result is a lightweight and strong push-rod configuration. The push-rods are installed through a small channel that you bore through the wing.
@905433: Push-rod, note red path of bored foam
<b>Balance, and Radio Set-up</b>
<br>
Accurately finding the Center of Gravity on the Red Herring is key to great flight performance. The instructions call for a starting point of 6" ahead of the hinge line. The final two pages of the instructions deal with finding your ideal CG using various methods. A plane this small and light requires an accurate method for balancing. I use two small vises with screwdrivers in them. I then balance the plane on the tip of the screwdrivers.
@905434: My balancing rig
The Red Herring, like just about any delta wing plane, requires elevon mixing for the control surfaces. This is best accomplished using a computer transmitter, but can also be achieved through the use of an on-board mixing device. The Red Herring does not need much elevator travel, so it is helpful to dial that down and leave a higher aileron deflection.
!Flying
@905435
@905436
Pure fun! How many times have you traveled to your slope and found that there was just not enough lift to fly your glider? The Red Herring wide flight envelope takes advantage of the lightest lift conditions yet still responds well when ballasted up for the days we all live for. I have found that I can fly my Red Herring when everyone else is waiting around for the wind to pick up. The magic of this little plane is that it does not fly like a "floater"; even in light lift, the Red Herring is capable of nimble aerobatics.
Weighing in at just over 7 ounces, the Red Herring does not have the energy retention of larger ships. I quickly realized that the Red Herring likes to be flown in an efficient and smooth manner. Time with the Red Herring is a constant lesson in graceful efficient flight and aerobatics. I have been learning how to better link maneuvers together in a smooth series rather than just banking and yanking on the controls.
The Red Herring was designed to be launched from the wing-tip using a Side Arm Launch (SAL). The instructions give a one page instructional on the proper launching technique. The side arm launch can give impressive launch heights and open up the fun of flat-land soaring. I was amazed at the duration of the flat-land glides I was getting when I was practicing the SAL technique.
!Conclusion
The Red Herring fills a void in my slope plane quiver. It is not the first plane I would grab if the winds are howling, but that is not too often. The amazing light lift performance of the Red Herring means I can be flying when others are waiting around or packing up. The Red Herring also continues to perform well as the lift increases, and if ballasted with a couple of ounces, will surprise you with its speed and penetration. Choose the EPS version if you are really after light weight "slermal" flying or the EPP (as reviewed) version for a more rugged slope plane. The two piece design allows for great travel convenience and portability. The 17" wing panels can easily be strapped onto a backpack for hiking or fit in a saddle-bag on a motorcycle. The instructions are second to none in detail, illustrations, and general building and trimming tips. The best thing about the Red Herring is that it offers you flight time when you might otherwise be grounded. You can take it more places and fly it on smaller slopes or in lighter lift than any other plane I can think of. For me, any plane that gives me as much fun and stick time as the Red Herring is a big hit.
| @905425: Red Herring by LiftWorx
| <b>Specifications</b>
|> <b>Wingspan:</b> |< 34 inches
|> <b>Wing area:</b> |< 290 sq. in.
|> <b>Weight:</b> |< 5.5 to 7.5 ounces
|> <b>Radio:</b> |< 2 MX-30 micro servos or similar for the wing, Berg 4 DSP or similar. Transmitter with Elevon Mixing and End-Point Adjustments and/or Dual Rates
|> <b>Battery:</b> |< 110mAh NiCad, 270mAh Nimh, or optional 2 lithium CR-123 camera cells wired in series (disposable)
|> <b>Construction:</b> |< 1.3lb EPP Foam and 1-mill clear tape included in kit
|> <b>Available from:</b> |< <a href="http://www.liftworx.com/">LiftWorx</a>
!Introduction
The first time I saw a Red Herring fly I thought that it looked like a fun glider, and then once I flew my own Red Herring I knew that it was a very fun and versatile glider to fly. Coming in at a bit over 7 ounces, the Red Herring is the lightweight of my quiver and, as such, has some unique flight characteristics and really opens up some fun in light to moderate winds. The Red Herring also is designed to excel using a Side Arm Launching (SAL) technique. Once you get the launch down, the Red Herring is a nimble little thermal hunter. Construction of the Red Herring is a breeze and its two piece design makes it a great travel companion.
!Kit Contents
Despite being packed into a very small box, the Red Herring Kit is surprisingly complete. Except for sandpaper, a cutting instrument, and your glue of choice, everything you need to build the Red Herring comes with the kit. The Red Herring even comes with two different tail feather material choices, light weight balsa/carbon fiber, or durable coroplast with a carbon reinforcing rod. The instruction manual for the Red Herring could be considered the standard by which all should be judged. Scobie Puchtler, the kit re-designer, instruction writer/illustrator, and owner of LiftWorx, leaves no detail of the Red Herring unmentioned. The 27 page instructions cover everything from how to make a handy sanding stick to how to best trim and fly the Red Herring. Scobie even details alternate techniques for building ultra-light vs. durable construction.
!Construction
As with any kit, before starting you should be to familiarize yourself with all the components included, supplies you will need, hardware you plan to install, and the instructions. The first step with the Red Herring is to shape the wing-tips. There is very little shaping to do as wing-tip planform comes precut. You simply blend in the wing-tip airfoil top and bottom by sanding to match the rest of the wing.
Once the wing-tips are sanded to shape, you create a receiver cavity in the root of one of the wings. It is recommended to install the receiver on the side that you will hold during your launches. The Berg 4 DSP is the perfect receiver for this plane. Not only is the Berg Rx lightweight with bullet-proof reliability, the end-plug configuration can really fit into a small cavity.
@905426: Wing root showing Berg 4 DSP and Azar antenna
As previously mentioned, the kit includes and the instructions detail two different vertical fins; one for lightweight and the other for durability. The balsa-carbon vertical fin is ultra light, but is more vulnerable to breakage and more involved to assemble. The coroplast fin is simple to construct and durable, but does add some weight. The nice thing about this kit is that it includes both fins to suite any conditions. With the fin finished, you can sand a small amount of foam from the rear portion of the wing root. This creates a small gap for the Vertical fin to fit into when the wings are joined.
@905427: Coroplast Vertical Fin, note carbon stiffening rod
It is time again to make another decision about durability vs. weight. The kit includes pultruded carbon fiber trailing edge reinforcements. These are to be glued onto the trailing edge of each wing and provide stiffness and durability but add weight behind the Center of Gravity. I chose to add them to my Red Herring, but it is nice to have the option if you really want a lightweight.
<b>Graphics and Covering the Wing</b>
<br>
The Red Herring is a blank canvas when it comes to color and design. The provided covering is clear tape, so anything that you want to draw on the foam will show through. I typically come up with fairly dull color schemes on my planes, but this one begged for a bit of creativity. I used colored markers to draw the eye on the bottom and a light coat of spray paint for everything else. Keep in mind that if you are going for a light weight plane that spray paint adds a bit to it.
@905428: My Eye in the Sky
The Red Herring gets covered relatively early in the build process. Being a two piece wing, you cover each half independently then add your radio gear from the root. Covering the Red Herring is very simple. The kit includes a roll of 3M 1 mil clear tape for the covering. To help adhesion of the clear tape it is a good idea to give first spray a light mist of 3M-77 glue over the wing surface. Then, starting at the trailing edge, you overlap strips of tape alternating top and bottom. The instructions do a great job of illustrating the covering technique and taping pattern. Covering the plane should not take you more then 30 minutes.
@905429: Applying clear tape starting at the trailing edge
<b>Elevons, Push-rods, and Radio Gear</b>
<br>
Once the wing is fully covered/taped, it is time to shape and install the elevons. The instructions detail two methods for shaping the elevons, each has its trade-offs for durability and flight performance. Additionally, you can finish your elevons in a variety of ways. For ultimate durability you can cover them with the 1 mill clear tape. I coated mine with a thinned goop method, which results in a durable yet light elevon. The kit also includes laser-cut ply-wood elevon control horns that are to be glued the root edge of each elevon. Four control horns are included; use one on each side for a light build, or double them up for a more durable configuration. Once the control horns are glued on you can install the elevons to the trailing edge of the Red Herring. Again, the instructions detail how to apply the tape hinges.
@905430: Control horns on each elevon
@905431: Elevon installed
As previously mentioned, the radio gear for the Red Herring is installed from the root of each wing. I used Hitec HS-55s in my Red Herring as they are ample for the job and small enough to fit in the wing. The root installation results in a clean wing surface with no cut-outs or protrusions at all. I cut the foam for a tight fit and used a very small amount of goop to hold the servos in place. I also soldered up a battery pack of 4 x 270mAh Nimh cells. This pack fit ahead of the servos opposite the receiver.
@905432: Servo and Battery installed in the root, note Ľoz lead weight for balance
The final step in construction of the Red Herring is the push-rods. The kit includes lightweight carbon rods, metal retainer clips and heat-shrink tubing. The instructions detail how to use the heat-shrink tubing to secure the retainer clips to the carbon rods. The result is a lightweight and strong push-rod configuration. The push-rods are installed through a small channel that you bore through the wing.
@905433: Push-rod, note red path of bored foam
<b>Balance, and Radio Set-up</b>
<br>
Accurately finding the Center of Gravity on the Red Herring is key to great flight performance. The instructions call for a starting point of 6" ahead of the hinge line. The final two pages of the instructions deal with finding your ideal CG using various methods. A plane this small and light requires an accurate method for balancing. I use two small vises with screwdrivers in them. I then balance the plane on the tip of the screwdrivers.
@905434: My balancing rig
The Red Herring, like just about any delta wing plane, requires elevon mixing for the control surfaces. This is best accomplished using a computer transmitter, but can also be achieved through the use of an on-board mixing device. The Red Herring does not need much elevator travel, so it is helpful to dial that down and leave a higher aileron deflection.
!Flying
@905435
@905436
Pure fun! How many times have you traveled to your slope and found that there was just not enough lift to fly your glider? The Red Herring wide flight envelope takes advantage of the lightest lift conditions yet still responds well when ballasted up for the days we all live for. I have found that I can fly my Red Herring when everyone else is waiting around for the wind to pick up. The magic of this little plane is that it does not fly like a "floater"; even in light lift, the Red Herring is capable of nimble aerobatics.
Weighing in at just over 7 ounces, the Red Herring does not have the energy retention of larger ships. I quickly realized that the Red Herring likes to be flown in an efficient and smooth manner. Time with the Red Herring is a constant lesson in graceful efficient flight and aerobatics. I have been learning how to better link maneuvers together in a smooth series rather than just banking and yanking on the controls.
The Red Herring was designed to be launched from the wing-tip using a Side Arm Launch (SAL). The instructions give a one page instructional on the proper launching technique. The side arm launch can give impressive launch heights and open up the fun of flat-land soaring. I was amazed at the duration of the flat-land glides I was getting when I was practicing the SAL technique.
!Conclusion
The Red Herring fills a void in my slope plane quiver. It is not the first plane I would grab if the winds are howling, but that is not too often. The amazing light lift performance of the Red Herring means I can be flying when others are waiting around or packing up. The Red Herring also continues to perform well as the lift increases, and if ballasted with a couple of ounces, will surprise you with its speed and penetration. Choose the EPS version if you are really after light weight "slermal" flying or the EPP (as reviewed) version for a more rugged slope plane. The two piece design allows for great travel convenience and portability. The 17" wing panels can easily be strapped onto a backpack for hiking or fit in a saddle-bag on a motorcycle. The instructions are second to none in detail, illustrations, and general building and trimming tips. The best thing about the Red Herring is that it offers you flight time when you might otherwise be grounded. You can take it more places and fly it on smaller slopes or in lighter lift than any other plane I can think of. For me, any plane that gives me as much fun and stick time as the Red Herring is a big hit.