GWS planes to .049 or .061 gas

[geiges]

I have sean this hear befor
I think . I looked at alot
Thread but did not find it.
anyone doing this ? I wood love
some Info
THANK'S
mike

[BuzzBomber]

There have been a few threads on RCU in the 1/2a and parkflyer(or maybe the foamies) forums regarding these conversions, if you do a search over there. I specifically remember a zero and a slow stick converted to bigmig .061 power. Take a look, see what you find.

[rcsoar4fun]

I think a formosa with a Norvel .061 or .074 would be pretty awesome. How would one protect the foam? Seems like glass would be heavy, maybe cover the entire thing with ultracoat light?

Kristopher

[BuzzBomber]

Years ago, my brother had a cox sportavia, which had a fuselage of the same type of beaded foam as the GWS stuff, and was powered by a babe bee, if I remember correctly. At any rate, the exhaust glop never seemed to bother that foam, so I imagine it could be a non-issue. Could always try it out on a scrap to be sure...

[Bill Glover]

It's a common myth that glow fuel attacks bare foam - it doesn't. I built some deltas from plain white polystyrene foam (EPS) and apart from slight staining (yellowing) where the exhaust hit it, no problem.

But the paint finish on GWS warbirds is unlikely to be fuel proof ;)

[rcsoar4fun]

I am no worried about the fuel attacking the foam, but it would be difficult to clean up. I was worried the foam would soak up the fuel.

Kristopher

[clipclop]

Water based acrylic paints will seal foam ok the just use a waterbased laquer on top to help keep it clean

[Bud Morrison]

You can get clear water based polyurethane in spray cans at home depot. A light coat will seal up the foam.

[loading]

I put an 061 on my GWS mustang. The fuel doen't attack the foam. I didn't do anything to seal it, except on the balsa fiirewall I glued on. My 061 was already broke in, so I don't need to run it rich. The foam gets a little slimey, but it doesn't really soak up the oul like a sponge. Acctualy most of the oil left on the foam is from my spillage more than flying. This plane is really fast and doesn't get much oil on it from flying.

[AMTJIM]

I started converting electric planes to glow with the recently cheaper and better micro radio systems and 1/2A engines. When that recent tech boom hit, it was like 1/2A never got that moment to shine it's been waiting for so long and went straight to electric. I have converted more electric foamies to glow than I can remember. Possibly very early types of foam had a different formula or expansion density and absorbed more of the fuel or residue, but it's really not that bad now. I think what happened was people assumed, well if you dope the wood, you gotta dope the foam too. Dope is definitely a foam NO-NO.
Where I do see propblems are:
1) Slighty absorbing fuel or exhaust, but not nearly as bad as unteated or poorly covered balsa. Wipes clean with baby wipes or alcohol on a rag.
2) Slight discoloring of foam, usually to brown if 1/2 A fuel used, I use green cool power too on larger foamies, so green for me too.
3) 2nd biggest problem, Debonding between foam granules, the fuel and residue works their way through the valleys between the granules of foam, they start to loosen up, flake off. This is usually very surface orientated, doesn't go very deep unless a brake occurs.
4) 1st biggest problem, Seperation between adhesives and foam, this is usually the biggest problem, the fuel and residue makes it's way into ever bond. Just take care to examine firewalls, empenage, where ever an adhesive and foam surface are readily exposed to fuel and residue.
5) Prepainted and covered electrics, I have never seen a fuel proof paint on a painted foamie, it needs to brushed over with epoxy or a foam safe spray, like pactra formula U. As for plastic covered foamies or balsa kits, once again, epoxy or dope any bare surfaces, test plastic with some fuel or residue. Once again, a brown tint may form over the aircraft, this is usually the most common occurance on 1/2A planes because of the high nitro content, it's hard on even fuel specific coverering and paints.

[easytiger]

Foamies are a great cheap thrill!
I've had a ton of them over the years, no reason why not to fly a GWS Zero or something with a Norvel, plenty of people have.
Foamies, though...they don't look that good for that long. They get a lot of hangar rash going to and from the field, and they start to look and feel pretty gloppy after thirty or forty flights.
That is...unless you glass them. But not much makes for a heavier airframe than glassed foam.
You know, one NICE thing about a norvel is you can fit a tube to the muffler to duct the exhaust glop away. All the cox engines just schmear the whole snout with goo.
By the way...diesel fuel WILL eat foam. Bigtime. As will straight kero turbine fuel.

Ah, the Cox Sportavia. Fine memories...

[gunf1ght]

WHY CONVERT? That is why I went to electric, to get away from the cleanup and glop of fuel powered birds {plus the fact of trying to balance two engines on twins and getting a glo engine to run reliably}

[daryl]

YES!We do convert this electric plane to glow.We need to cover some of the plane with basla wood so it will not break in mid-air.
we use a .15 or a .10 engine.

[RiBell]

Originally posted by easytiger
no reason why not to fly a GWS Zero or something with a Norvel, plenty of people have.

That is...unless you glass them. But not much makes for a heavier airframe than glassed foam.
The more I think about this the more tempted I am to put my Norvel 0.061 on my GWS Zero.
Any one have an idea as to how much weight glassing with water based polyurethane would add?
Rick

[john8750]

Just build a mock 1/2 a engine to fit over the electric motor and someone can build an electronic sound system.
Then you have both.

[RiBell]

Originally posted by john8750
Just build a mock 1/2 a engine to fit over the electric motor and someone can build an electronic sound system.
Then you have both.
Too funny:
The only thing that keeps me from just doing it is the # of irons already in the fire right now.
That and I'll need more radio gear.
Rick

[Bud Morrison]

Originally posted by RiBell
The more I think about this the more tempted I am to put my Norvel 0.061 on my GWS Zero.
Any one have an idea as to how much weight glassing with water based polyurethane would add?
Rick

Dude a lil strapping tape on the wing and a lil epoxy here and there and go fly it. No need for glass :)

Its only foam hehehe

[RiBell]

Originally posted by Bud Morrison
Dude a lil strapping tape on the wing and a lil epoxy here and there and go fly it. No need for glass :)

Its only foam hehehe
I guess your right. I've got a couple of projects that I want to finish first though. And I'm thinking that I've got to be one of the slowest builders around.
Rick

[BuzzBomber]

I've got to be one of the slowest builders around.
Bah! You can't be any slower than me!!! I started a kadet LT-25 last January and didn't finish it until October--and I was rushing!:D Heck, I've got a mini-telemaster that will wind up with either an OS .10 or speed 400 2.33:1 I started building in November and haven't even gotten to the wing yet. Sorry I'm OT, I just couldn't resist.

[RiBell]

Originally posted by Matt Smith
Bah! You can't be any slower than me!!!
Is that suposted to be a challange. lol:D
I keep getting, oh 1/2 done, then get distracted and start something else.
Rick

[BuzzBomber]

Me too. If you ever DO get around to trying the Russian engine in the Japanese fighter, be sure to post some in-flight video. My father's been abusing a poor hapless Zero for close to a year now, complaining about the lack of power ('course, he refuses to run it anything other than the GWS 6-cell 600maH pack). I think this might show him how well the zero could fly with the right powerplant;).