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rcsoar4fun
Nov 02, 2003, 10:44 AM
I have an ace simple extra that needs a motor. The recommended motor is a GP .07. This motor weighs 3.3 oz and puts out .19 hp. Would I not be better off with the Norvel 0.61 that weighs 1.83oz and puts out .31hp?

The Norvels seem to have a lot of horsepower, how user friendly are they? Any downsides?

Thanks-
Kristopher

Lynn S
Nov 02, 2003, 06:40 PM
Use the .061, I have flown the simple Extra with a Black Widow .049 but it was very underpowered. Be sure to keep the weight at 16 ozs. or less. any more and it will stall easily. I built mine too heavy. The next one I build I will know better.
I also flew my simple extra with a AP .061 and it had good power. The main thing is keep it light. The AP engine is a conventional ABC engine and easy to break-in, the Norvel requires a different break-in. Check the thread on that topic.

rcsoar4fun
Nov 02, 2003, 06:43 PM
I started out building it electric, I think it will end up very light for one of these birds. Another reason I am trying to stay away from the GP .07.

I have read this plane has a tip stall problem, has anyone tried Horner tips on it?

Kristopher

Lynn S
Nov 02, 2003, 06:46 PM
Which one are you building?

The Extra has a tapered wing and will really tip stall quickly, especially on take off. You have to let it build speed before trying a turn. The ones with the full width wing will probably do better than the tapered wing Extra.

rcsoar4fun
Nov 02, 2003, 07:40 PM
Mine is the Extra. I have heard the rumors about the plane, thats why I was thinking horner tips or tip plates. I guess I will try it and report back to the group.

Kristopher

Lynn S
Nov 02, 2003, 09:08 PM
If you have not covered the wing yet, you could glue a balsa trailing edge to the wing to give it a little more area.

T. Lyttle
Nov 09, 2003, 10:50 PM
Or you could shape a little washin into the tips, it don't take much. Watch the cg as well, too far back and stall comes way too early. Also, look at turbulators as a quick cure, again it don't take much, particularly near the ailerons; down side is a tendency to wander at speed.

sturmvogel
Nov 10, 2003, 02:19 PM
Wash-out, not wash-in, I think is what you meant. Wash-in is where the tip is at a lesser angle of attack(or incidence) than the center of the wing. If you're not going to do any aerobatics, you might also use differential ailerons, a lot of "up" but very little "down". The Norvels seem to be great engines once the dreaded break-in is finished...
Bob Peterson

RJB
Nov 10, 2003, 05:30 PM
A few years back, I built a SS AT-6 and used a Norvel .061. Fuel was 30% heli and I used a Cox 5x3 grey prop. Performance was outstanding!! This would be a good combination in the other Ace SS kits.

Cheers!

Lynn S
Nov 10, 2003, 08:55 PM
I have heard that the AT-6 does well, and the Me-109, the tapered wing on the Extra seems to take away needed lift.

T. Lyttle
Nov 10, 2003, 10:37 PM
Yup, washin is what I meant: if the tips are at lesser angle of attack than the root, the root stalls first and allows the tips to keep flying and avoid dreaded tip-stall/spin. I have yet to see a model that actually benefitted from washout, the exception being freeflight towline (A1, A2) gliders; they use washout to make the model stall INTO a thermal and stay there.

Also, the aerobatics won't be much affected by the washin except for inverted manoevers, seldom done at low (stall) speeds!