Guillow Conversions

[mlbco]

Here are some pictures showing some of the structural steps in modifying a Guillow's BF 109 for 3 channel RC with a PAW .03 diesel motor. The radio is a Hitec 555 receiver and 3 HS-50 servos. The batteries are 110 mah nicads.

The first step is to strengthen the front of the nose with 1/16" sheet fill. I mount the motor on beams epoxied to the 1/16" ply firewall. The radio installation is 'permanent' for the life of the model and all servos are glued in place. Do not bother with servo rails, mounting hardware, etc... this adds useless weight and complexity. Also do not use too much fill-sheet as this adds unecessary weigth also. The standard rock-hard balsa in the kit is strong enough.

[mlbco]

The fuel tank is made of thin brass shim stock soldered into a suitable rectangle. The vent and fill lines run to the bottom and top of the tank like in a UC stunt model. The pickup line runs to the back corner of the tank.

The wing is sheeted around the center section and thin plywood spar braces are used at the center section. The trailing edge is replaced with a sanded sheet TE and torque tubes and ailerons are added.

[mlbco]

The tail surfaces are made from 3/32" sheet balsa and hinged with small pieces of Sig Easy hinges. Elevator pushrod is thin music wire and the control horn is cut from 1/32" plywood.

[mlbco]

The frame is covered with japanese tissue, watershrunk, and clear doped. I paint my models with Acrylic bruched on water base paints from the plastic model section of the hobby shop. I then seal everything with a coat of semi-gloss polyurethane spray. This is works well for diesel fuel proofing.

[mlbco]

Here is the finished model. It flies great with ailerons and elevator, and can fly inverted briefly even without a clunk tank. The PAW .03 diesel is the most underappreciated engine in the world. It throttles very well, runs forever on an ounce of fuel, and with the exhaust collector it is VERY quiet. The 109 looks great in the air and is awaiting a Spitfire companion...

[TEM]

Thats sure a nice plane you got there! I remember seeing a converted guillows spitfire like 10 years ago in RCM. Unthrottled .049 or .07?; 2ch aileron and rudder. I almost wanted to build my own; but I was only in freeflight and cars then. That and guillows scared me. Buying their kits were like buying scrap wood, plan sheet, plastic cowling and canopy. BTW, whats the AUW of your plane? Do you have any online links to information pertaining to diesel engines? I have never run one and neither have my friends.... Whats it like?

[mlbco]

All of my conversion aircraft weigh between 8 and 10 ounces. With the latest radios you can easily build lighter than this. Don't go overboard on reinforcing the structure as the extra weight will make these planes fly poorly. Don't overpower them either, they look real stupid flying around like missiles! I like to fly them throttled back low and somewhat slow.

Here are 2 links for places I've purchased diesel engines from:

http://www.cafes.net/doctordiesel/

http://www.carlsonengineimports.com/

The motor I use is a PAW 55 BR RC (.03 cu in diesel ball bearing). It is happy turning propellors from 5 x 4 up to 7 x 4. Diesels have lots of torque and can easily handle bigger props which is great for scale models and quieter flying. The downside is learning how to set the compression and dealing with the kerosene smelling fuel. Diesel is messy even compared to glow. The fuel is roughly equal parts Kerosene, Ether, and oil. The compression adjust is like setting the timing on a spark ignition engine and there is an art to doing this right. It didn't take me long to get the hang of it and the PAW is a forgiving engine. You must be careful not to use an electric starter on a small diesel when its flooded or over compressed, because you'll bend the connecting rod instantly. I use a wimpy 1/2 A starter and back off the compression. You can also hand start the engine if you know the procedures outlined on Eric Clutton's web site.

Steve

[TEM]

Thanks for the info, real interesting stuff I'd one day like to try out. Looking at the sites; you can get a china made diesel for 25bucks! I question the performance but at that price, you can break it and not have to cry about it! Anyone one with experience on those things?

Nitro works alright for me now(and it smells so sweet!) In my experience(yes, not much), the OS's, cox's, all work real good. The norvel I hated in the beginning....

[Bud Morrison]

Thanks for posting more info on your Guillows conversions. That is one nice looking plane.
I have allways been afraid to try one but your posts have convinced me to do just that. I take it the tissue you are refering to is not the tissue that comes with the kits.

[mlbco]

Japanese tissue is different than what comes in the kits. It is a much finer grain, lighter, and has a shiny surface on one side. I order mine from Peck Polymers or just buy it at a local (well stocked) hobby shop.

Thanks,

Steve

[wipste]

HI all, first post here


The guillows conversions are really interesting.I can remember as a kid with these and my foremost memory is that they were never really strong and I could never get the tissue on correctly.I started more of them than I ever finished. Are they worthwhile to convert.The one here is superb but is there any quality of the guillows kit that is sacrificed when converting to glow or diesel rc.Just a question.I have always wanted to try these little buggers but really did not know where to start.I've been into cars ,boats and planes and have lots of gear.I'm willing to try these for myself and not combat.Are there any kits I should try first and some to stay clear.Any direction would be appreciated



thanks and regards

wip

[Dreadnot]

Hello, also my first post here. I was concerned about the plastic parts that come in the guillows kits. Will they take glow fuel?
I haven't seen any tissue sold for a very long time, any ideas where they might sell it?
Dreadnot

[east6008]

Hi there, I'm not into diesel for the Guillows scale models,
but have something to contribute with regards to using
Cox 049's, such as the Golden Bee, Black Widow, or the
Texaco---use an 8 X 4 prop. A little touchy on needle
valve setting, but you get a less squirrely airplane, less
noise, and better fuel economy. I flew the Guillows Thomas
Morse Scout for years with a Black Widow--it stuck out of
the cowling a bit, but looked and sounded great with a
wooden 8 X 4 prop

[easytiger]

Nice job, as always!
The PAW is so sweet...

That $25 chinese silver swallow or russian MAP does run, but it has no throttle, so it kind of loses the advantage of a small diesel...the great throttling.

Covering...well, to me, the only real bummer about tissue is the holes it gets in it if you end up in the weeds...you could do the same conversion and monokote it without too much, if any, weight penalty(depends how much paint you use)...I think tissue turns off a lot of the guys from trying. I like tissue or silkspan or silk, over plastics, myself...

[easytiger]

Hello, also my first post here. I was concerned about the plastic parts that come in the guillows kits. Will they take glow fuel?
I haven't seen any tissue sold for a very long time, any ideas where they might sell it?
Dreadnot
The plastic parts are totally fuel proof.
Peck polymers sells tissue, or try penn valley hobby center.

[sturmvogel]

The PAW .55cc engine runs like a sewing machine. Like others have said it starts easily, throttles great, is quiet. The only negative is the goop that comes out of it. It's not only quiet but puts out the thrust of a Medallion .049 (not scientifically discovered, just a guess...). Another great source for f/f products (silkspan, silk, nitrate dope, nitrate rejuvenator, plans, etc.) is Aerodyne in Pomona, CA/. BTW that's another advantage of using a diesel-you don't have to worry about fuel proofing. I also have an .049, .061, and .19 from PAW and they're all great runners. Eric Clutton is easy to deal with and parts are readily available.

[easytiger]

Amen to all that.
Funny thing is this...the PAW does not mind a REALLY long exhaust extension. On my Flyline Robin, it's an aluminum tube running all the way back to the tail.
No goop on the plane, and no perceptable power loss. Even quieter than the usual quiet PAW burble, too.

[supermarine]

I build and flew a guillows spitfire for a few years with a norvel engine throlled and ail ,elev. it perform beautifully and it was one fast little warbird. I beefed the airframe and covered on silk and dope. you can imagine the finish absolutely gorgeous Disadvantage was the weight penalty. so in my next spit I will not reinforce as much and will probably go with oracover or silkspan and then fuel proof with epoxy clear.

[PROACE]

I have a simple question. I may venture into a conversion sometime as it does look like fun.
Anyway, what would be the approximate max weight and/or wing area I could use with a PAW .03 CU?
Thanks,
Ace

[supermarine]

I think somewhere in the range of 10 to 14 onz to have a well behaved plane but theres is exceptions to the rule, it depends also in the type of wing and plane

[PROACE]

I guess to be safe I would consider a high wing design. Maybe the better question would be: Would a PAW .03 carry the same model as an Cox .049
or between a Cox Pee Wee .020 or Baby Bee .049?

[jzanutto]

I've done the Guillows Corsair, P-38 and the Hellcat. I used a Black widow .049 with an added 1 ounce clunk tank behind it in the fuselage. Works great and flies forever! I have some older pictures, I'll have to scan them in first. I used to use their tissue and pactra aero gloss paint- never had any problems with it. WIth these little babies it's all in the hand launch technique- you gotta chuck em' like you're lobbing a football. THey have to go perfectly straight at the release from your hand or they'll snaproll right into the ground.

[Vraptor04]

I got a P-40E. 16'' WS. How should i install elev., Rud, and Aileron Servos? Also I want a low weight and im running a Cox .049 Black widow. What should i cover it with? Thanks, Tommy

[PROACE]

Sounds like you are trying to build a missle :) The .049 is super overkill for that 16" WS a .010 with GWS pico servos might be a better choice. I would use the pull/pull monofilament fishing line to control the elev/rud from the servos.

[jzanutto]

are you guys running 25 percent gas?

[PROACE]

I have run 5% for years. Of course I have missed alot in performance too.

[Vraptor04]

Im running 15% Gas. I always have. BTW I dont have a .010 Engine or 60.00 To buy one. Thats why im sticking with a no-throttle .049. I installed all the Equiptment today. Finishing MonoKote covering Later. Hoping to fly it by sunday. See-ya, Tommy

[jzanutto]

Tommy, I used to live and fly in Winston-Salem at a place called the "hobby park". It was a state-funded park that had U-control circles, an R/C area, and a full soap box derby track. Ever been there or seen it?

JZ

[PROACE]

Like to see the finished project if you can post pics.

[Juancar]

Hi, congratulations for this nice model.
I also have a guillow 109 kit and I'm planning to convert it to glow, would it be possible? in that case, wich engine do you suggest? :rolleyes:
Regards.

[TLyttle]

Another note on PAWs, and diesels in general: I was demonstrating my PAW19 to a fellow, and he asked about "how quiet". I took my welding glove and jammed it down over the collector, and it was quiet enough to speak (not yell) over, and it took 15-20sec before it finally stalled. Guess how well that thing muffles? Try the same thing with ANY glow 19, and you will see what I mean...

[sharpo88]

hi there, i bought this kit today, and im wondering what size glow engine should i use on it? i am having trouble finding a peewee.

[lightthings]

hi there, i bought this kit today, and im wondering what size glow engine should i use on it? i am having trouble finding a peewee.

You can find them here part number is C100 and though they are no longer in production, Select hobbies has them in stock as long as supplies last.
http://www.selecthobbies.com/eginesdata.htm

By the way it is the right engine to use. Guillow's shows it to be so.

That big auction site usually has some as well. I just bought two used ones this afternoon. This could be a problem as used can be a big headache The ones Select Hobbies sell are brand new, never run.
LT

[unattainium]

Converting the Guillows kits to gas is a great idea. I just bought a couple of .020 Peewees and a ,020 Tee Dee. I also have bought a couple of micro 4 channel 2.4GHz radios. Looks like I have everything necessary to build a Spitfire and a FW190. I have added exhaust throttles to the Peewees.

For extra strength and lightness I have some carbon fiber, kevlar and fine glass cloth to use for reinforcement. I bought some very light kevlar and carbon veil in the hope of being able to use it for very lightweight strengthening in conjunction with polycrylic resin.

I also like the way the kits sell for $25, not much of a sacrifice to have a stable of warbirds.

Any suggestions on re-inforcing and covering?

[lightthings]

"Any suggestions on re-inforcing and covering?"

Be very aware that carbon veil will do little for strengthening but it will help stiffening. Not the same thing!
To substantiate, check what I say here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/composites-fabrication-210/
LT

[sharpo88]

You can find them here part number is C100 and though they are no longer in production, Select hobbies has them in stock as long as supplies last.
http://www.selecthobbies.com/eginesdata.htm

By the way it is the right engine to use. Guillow's shows it to be so.

That big auction site usually has some as well. I just bought two used ones this afternoon. This could be a problem as used can be a big headache The ones Select Hobbies sell are brand new, never run.
LT


thanks. one prob though, i am in the uk and dont want to pay a fortune on shipping and wait ten years for it to arrive lol. is there
any other engines i could use that are more readily available? cheers

[kpriddle]

"That big auction site" and SelectHobbies are probably your only choices. You may find some Pee Wee's on this auction site, but sold from people living in the U.K. That may be helpful to you.

Hope you find what you're looking for. :)

KP

[sharpo88]

do you think a thunder tiger gp 15 engine would do the trick? im new to nitro engines in planes. don't have a clue. lol

[Rubidium]

The GP .15 is much too big for a Guillows model. The biggest motor I ever put in one was a TD .09.
It was in a Guillows P-40 warhawk. The thing was incredibly fast but very heavy and difficult to land without damaging it. I ended up putting a TD.049 on it and it still was overpowered but flew/landed well.

If you are in England why don't you try one of the PAW diesels that the originator of the thread used?

I am in the process of getting one of these myself, right now, for future Guillow conversions. I really like the idea that I don't have to have fuel proof paint on the model.

[kpriddle]

If your serious about the question...well, no. This TT is a bit too big and the TT .07 is probably too big also. A PeeWee or a PAW would be your best option.

KP

[wpadams]

See over on "Post yer 1/2A's" for pictures and story on my Guillows DrI diesel conversion. PAW033 is much more practical engine imho than Cox's - more robust, good throttling and much better fuel economy. Also 2x heavier and a lot more power. For covering these small models there is some sort of film I think is meant for library books. I got the end of a reel years ago that will see me out - I am not sure what it is called. It is strong and shrinks well. With diesel engine you can spray paint with enamel as the fuel is not so good as a paint stripper compared to glow fuel.

[unattainium]

My Guillows Spitfire is emerging from the planning stage and I am about to start building when the extra light balsa is delivered. I am planning to power it with a Cox 09 Medallion fitted with a throttle and a custom exhaust header whivh incorporates the Merlin exhaust stubs so that exhaust will come out both side from the right place.

I am extending the wing by two inches to make sure that I do not have a wing loading over 16 oz/sq ft and increasing the stab by the same amount. I shall have ailerons, flaps and rudder, plus of course elevator and throttle. I have designed and am making some lightweight retracts

One unresolved feature is whether to have split flaps like the original or plain flaps, Does anyone know how split flaps perform on models?

My other change from Guiilows is to ditch the flat bottomed airfoil and use one more like the original. The Spitfire has NACA 2213 at the root and 2206 at the tips with 2 degrees washout. I plan to have 4312 tapering to 4306 and the same 2 degrees of washout. Any comments?

[lightthings]

My Guillows Spitfire is emerging from the planning stage and I am about to start building when the extra light balsa is delivered. I am planning to power it with a Cox 09 Medallion fitted with a throttle and a custom exhaust header whivh incorporates the Merlin exhaust stubs so that exhaust will come out both side from the right place.

I am extending the wing by two inches to make sure that I do not have a wing loading over 16 oz/sq ft and increasing the stab by the same amount. I shall have ailerons, flaps and rudder, plus of course elevator and throttle. I have designed and am making some lightweight retracts

One unresolved feature is whether to have split flaps like the original or plain flaps, Does anyone know how split flaps perform on models?

My other change from Guiilows is to ditch the flat bottomed airfoil and use one more like the original. The Spitfire has NACA 2213 at the root and 3306 at the tips with 2 degrees washout. I plan to have 4312 tapering to 4306 and the same 2 degrees of washout. Any comments?

Umm, why?
LT

[unattainium]

[QUOTE=lightthings]Umm, why?
LT[/QUOTE

Why not? It's a hobby, where satisfaction comes from making it better, or at least trying.]

[lightthings]

In the interest of keeping things from being so heavy might I suggest using the Tee Dee .020 instead? I can scarcely imaging putting the .09 to power it.
LT

[unattainium]

In the interest of keeping things from being so heavy might I suggest using the Tee Dee .020 instead? I can scarcely imaging putting the .09 to power it.
LT

I take your point. The 09 is much heavier. but it will drive a scale-sized 3 blade prop.

I have a Tee Dee 02 so I shall see how it fits in.

[Andy-W]

Have a look at what a Norvel .06, converted to diesel can do. On a Cox, 8 X 4 grey prop,,,, 11K with perfect throttling.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57WTJUxV0DM&feature=channel

Modern engines, converted to diesel will surprise you. The trick though, is to make your own fuel. That sounds difficult but here's how it's done.

Truck diesel engines, when cold, need a boost to start and the booster is a spray can of "quickstart" The best is John Deere brand. Once you spay it out of the can, you get nearly 100% ether. Other brands, not so. Ether is the deal for easy starts and smooth running and good throttling.

The formula, for small engines, .10 and down is, 39% ether, 39% kerosene, 20% castor (Sig or Klotz) and 2% Amsoil, cetane booster. Ether from your John Deere dealer. Plain ole kerosene from your hardware store, used for camp stoves and the like. Castor from Sig or Klotz from your local dirt bike shop. Very important is an ignition improver. In the old days it was amyl nitrate, a heart stimulant from the drug store. Now it's Amsoil, cetane booster, available online with no Hazmat fees. Cheap for a 12 ounce can and at 2% in your fuel, it goes a long way.

Some commercial fuels are secretive about their ingredients. Make no mistake, ether is expensive but if you mix your own, even at 39% but restrict yourself to small models and engines, you will not break the bank. Plus, it's a given that diesel fuel goes twice as far as glow fuel. And, with diesel, you can go one prop size up and get more thrust to boot. AND, the sound is oh, SO much more realistic.

The KEY to running small diesels is to find the compression setting with NO fuel in the tank. That way, you eliminate getting the crankcase loaded up with fuel and the risk of hydraulic lock. Many conversions are quite hard to hand start. In that case, DO use an electric starter but only the 1/2A variety of starter. As mentioned, NO fuel in the tank UNTIL you find the compression setting. If you ONLY apply two or three drops of prime into the INTAKE and NEVER into the exhaust, you will not damage anything. As you're using an electric starter, your prime will be blown out if your compression setting is not correct. As you apply DROPS of prime to the intake, you increase the compression, a quarter turn at a time. At one point, your prime will light off every time. Now is the time to fill your fuel tank. Experience has shown that if you use 39% ether based fuel, your needle setting will be very close to the setting you had when running glow fuel. From there, as you get a run, you first, play with the compression, back and forth to maximize RPMs. You should wait a minute or two to allow the engine to stabilize in temperature. Diesels are funny that way. Then you play with the compression and the needle till you get as much spin as you can.

Lots of fun with diesel, just remember, the compression ratio is very high compared to glow and you CAN get hydraulic lock. But you can get that with glow too so you just need to know, NEVER prime into the exhaust, always into the intake and only if you use an electric starter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPbXupZu4p8&feature=channel_page Traditional diesels, like this PAW can tolerate a starter, no problem, as long as it's a 1/2A starter and you DO find the compression before any fuel is put in the tank. Note how ragged the engine runs UNTIL it comes up to temperature. I ran out of time on the camera but a few seconds later, the engine transitioned into a perfect tone.

Finally, what can help is to make a special, prime mix. I use 60 to 70% ether and 40 to 30% oil. Use LOTS of oil because the ether is very "dry" and the extra oil provides good compression seal.

[Andy-W]

You will notice that the PAW, ran rough till it warmed up and smoothed out. Traditional diesels, made of steel and cast iron, behave differently from modern conversions that are typically, ABC or AAN or variations. The reason is that steel and iron need more time to warm up and heat is a big factor in diesel combustion. ABC, with brass and aluminum and AAN that are all aluminum, warm up quickly and will nearly instantly transition from cold to the heat required for a smooth run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Poc17Kz-l2I&feature=channel_page All the Norvels and other conversions, such as this one, will fire off easily and come up to full RPM almost instantly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=af4dQNa60_w&feature=channel_page
In fact, here,we have a Norvel .074 starting easily with just the prime provided by blocking the muffler and using a spring starter. In all cases, the trick to easy starting and smooth running had much to do with LOTS of ether in the mix.

[Andy-W]

Most traditional diesels of the steel/cast iron variety, need to have the compression and needle backed off to start when cold. Every time they are started, they require re-adjustment. Not so with modern metallurgy engines.

Having said that, that only applies if you're trying to HAND start a traditional diesel. Here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJb7aZFMVwY&feature=channel_page We are cold starting the PAW but the electric starter allows us to get a start, (after a few tries) without resorting to messing with the compression OR the needle. The key is that the prime runs bring the engine up to a certain temperature that allows the engine to keep running and to gain its running temperature.

Another way to accomplish this is to pre-heat the engine with a heat gun. This too will allow a start without having to alter the final, running settings.

The need to alter the settings for a start on a traditional diesel is the temperature of the engine. A hot engine needs a certain setting. A cold engine needs different settings that need to be adjusted as the engine warms up.

[unattainium]

Truck diesel engines, when cold, need a boost to start and the booster is a spray can of "quickstart" The best is John Deere brand. Once you spay it out of the can, you get nearly 100% ether. Other brands, not so. Ether is the deal for easy starts and smooth running and good throttling.

The formula, for small engines, .10 and down is, 39% ether, 39% kerosene, 20% castor (Sig or Klotz) and 2% Amsoil, cetane booster. Ether from your John Deere dealer. Plain ole kerosene from your hardware store, used for camp stoves and the like. Castor from Sig or Klotz from your local dirt bike shop. Very important is an ignition improver. In the old days it was amyl nitrate, a heart stimulant from the drug store. Now it's Amsoil, cetane booster, available online with no Hazmat fees. Cheap for a 12 ounce can and at 2% in your fuel, it goes a long way.

Some commercial fuels are secretive about their ingredients. Make no mistake, ether is expensive but if you mix your own, even at 39% but restrict yourself to small models and engines, you will not break the bank. Plus, it's a given that diesel fuel goes twice as far as glow fuel. And, with diesel, you can go one prop size up and get more thrust to boot. AND, the sound is oh, SO much more realistic.
.

Way back I remember mixing diesel fuel using ether, kerosene, amyl nitrite and premium motor oil, something like Castrol XL 40 SAE from memory. These days I imagine you would use premium synthetic like Mobil One. This fuel worked well as I recall. Do you have a special reason for using castor instead of the more easily obtained motor oil?

I wonder if two stroke oil might work well, the stuff you use in a two stroke motor cycle or outboard.

[unattainium]

Truck diesel engines, when cold, need a boost to start and the booster is a spray can of "quickstart" The best is John Deere brand. Once you spay it out of the can, you get nearly 100% ether. Other brands, not so. Ether is the deal for easy starts and smooth running and good throttling.

The formula, for small engines, .10 and down is, 39% ether, 39% kerosene, 20% castor (Sig or Klotz) and 2% Amsoil, cetane booster. Ether from your John Deere dealer. Plain ole kerosene from your hardware store, used for camp stoves and the like. Castor from Sig or Klotz from your local dirt bike shop. Very important is an ignition improver. In the old days it was amyl nitrate, a heart stimulant from the drug store. Now it's Amsoil, cetane booster, available online with no Hazmat fees. Cheap for a 12 ounce can and at 2% in your fuel, it goes a long way.

Some commercial fuels are secretive about their ingredients. Make no mistake, ether is expensive but if you mix your own, even at 39% but restrict yourself to small models and engines, you will not break the bank. Plus, it's a given that diesel fuel goes twice as far as glow fuel. And, with diesel, you can go one prop size up and get more thrust to boot. AND, the sound is oh, SO much more realistic.
.

Way back I remember mixing diesel fuel using ether, kerosene, amyl nitrate and premium motor oil, something like Castrol XL 40 SAE from memory. These days I imagine you would use a premium synthetic like Mobil One. This fuel worked well as I recall. Do you have a special reason for using castor instead of the more easily obtained motor oil?

I wonder if two stroke oil might work well, the stuff you use in a two stroke motor cycle or outboard.

[TLyttle]

For the most part, Castor doesn't necessarily have an SAE grade, as it is vegetable-based. It has high-pressure lubricating qualities that most other oils don't possess, hence its preference for diesels.

In the old days, we would mix 35% kero with 35% ether, 15% castor, 15% 30W mineral (not multigrade), and diesel ignintion improver (substitute for amyl). The druggies have made ether very hard to obtain, so we must resort to starting fluid and the usual guesswork on how much ether is in a particular brand...

That mixture has worked well for our group; we have yet to lose an engine, and even my old ED2.46 is still running fine (since 1952!) for its new owner.

[Andy-W]

Castor, these days is not hard to get, Castrol's Benol and Klotz's brand too. These can be got from the local speed shop or even online easily enough,, no Hazmat.

John Deere quickstart is 80% ether, no inferior volatiles are used. A bit of lube and mostly propellant makes up the 20% that is not ether. I regard JD quickstart as pure ether when mixing.

Extracting the ether is the trick. Some put the can in the freezer overnight and then, punch a hole in the can and it generally just pours out instead of spraying as the pressure is almost nil. But that can leave propellant in the ether so how I do it is to install the spray button and tube off of a WD40 can. From there, I punch a hole into the lid of an 8 ounce jar and spray into the jar directly from the can. This blows off most of the propellant and I can make up reliable mixes right away. With the freezer way, you can have propellant in your final mix that can cause problems.


Doing it once displays how easy it is, really, to mix up 32 ounces at a time. If you fly 1/2A diesel, one ounce can give you a 15 to 20 minute flight. So, for the bother of mixing 32 ounces, you can get 32 flights. And with that kind of mileage, the expense and bother become non issues.

As Tlyttle says, diesels can last a long time. Part of the reason is that you don't have corrosive nitro residues and also, kerosene has lubricating qualities all by itself. There are lots of good reasons to consider diesel. AND, with a bit of extra care, you CAN use a starter and that makes going diesel just that much more fun.

About the oil, again. I've tried a wide variety of oils and oil blends. In the end, good old castor oil just seems to work the best. I forget the weight, but non-detergent, aviation oil comes in second. A 50/50 blend to make it a bit cheaper seems to work well too. Lots of room for experiment.