Questions about building

[SundayFlyer]

I usually lurk around a bit, but this seems "too good to be true".

I'm definitely catching up, having not been in the hobby for a little over a decade. My experiences with trainer planes is horrible. Built one, took it to the local model airpark, enlisted the help of a good pattern flier, picked up my balsa scraps after 5 minutes, went home, rebuilt and repeated. I was very young and very broke, so after a few months of 5- 10 minute flights and subsequent foulups, I hung up the hobby and went to building plastic scale models that only break when you move to a new house ;)

Anyway, I love building aircraft and the relatively inexpensive cost of coro and pvc make this look like the perfect way for me to get back into this hobby.

I've got a few questions I haven't found answers for yet, so I'm hoping you can steer me in the right direction.

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Do these coro planes really go together that easily?
Do you stiffen the control surfaces with anything, or do they flutter?
Can you "hide" or cover coro for a non-corduroy(sp) look on the fuse or wings?
How "fast" should one move the heat source for flashing? (AKA one mississippi, two mississippi, or just "show it the heat")
[/list=1]

Nothing like jumping in with both feet :D

Greg S

[TLAR]

Do these coro planes really go together that easily?

Yes, but not right away. There is definately a learning curve. I'm going to guess that you're first one will take @ 10-12 hours to complete as you learn how to work with the materials. The second one will go together in half that time, and you'll only get better from there!

Do you stiffen the control surfaces with anything, or do they flutter?

I've had almost no troubles with flutter, yet I've read that some do. Dowels in the flutes, and making the control horn base longer (larger footprint) are two of the ways guys are stopping flutter. Tapered control surfaces are also much less prone to this problem.

Can you "hide" or cover coro for a non-corduroy(sp) look on the fuse or wings?

I've grown to love the look...pre colored, fuel proof, so easy to just wipe off...and 15 feet away you can't tell the difference between say a Big stick or a Spadstick.

How "fast" should one move the heat source for flashing? (AKA one mississippi, two mississippi, or just "show it the heat")

Practice on scrap first. I touch the flame to the coro. By two mississippi I'm across the wing panel. I will go over it several times. I like to get the plastic to ripple ever so slightly...then I know I've got it good.

[SundayFlyer]

Thanks, TLAR!

I'm going out to grab what I need and give it a shot this weekend.

Greg S

[gordo-plast]

Welcome to the epidemic Greg! I'm a bit of a newbie too, Only done 3 wings so far ( not counting PBFs). My advice is read and head the glueing techniques seen here and at SpadtotheBone.com. I screwed up plenty, but for the cost of coro, it's not that big of a deal to try a few times!

have fun

Gordo

[woodsy]

Also atke a visit to spadworld.net and spadtothebone.com if you havent already

[SundayFlyer]

I'm already there :D

Same ID there too :)