Finishing floats?

[jrsnow]

Bought floats for my SoarStar but haven't installed yet. Tried to cover with Oracover (?) but just burned holes in the foam. Two people I know use the SoarStar floats as received, no waterproofing, no covering, just put 'em on and go. I have sprayed with Minwax polycrylic and sanded and plan to spray paint. Any comments would be appreciated. Also have floats for my Lite Stik still waiting my decision on finishing. Great to have this forum.

[fumblethumbs]

Nothing wrong with paint, IMO! Most low-temp coverings are applied over foam at 220-250 degrees IIRC, but you can melt the foam even at that temp if you linger very long in one spot with the iron. I practiced on scraps (lots came with my Foamfloats.com solids) until I was satisfied with the results before moving on. -thumbs

[Fredrik W]

I made the premier take off from water with my MPX Pico Cub two days ago. No covering, it took off in less than 9 feets.

But if you whant to cover them: Oracover is a high-temp covering. I suggest you use monocote instead. It is a good idea to use some sort of extra adhesive, like Balsaloc, on edges.


// Fredrik Wergeland
Sweden
www.flyingmodels.org (http://www.flyingmodels.org)
The Great Electric Motor Test (http://www.flyingmodels.org/motortest/Link_e.htm)

[temacc]

Use clear sealing/strapping tape on the bottoms only, to get less "friction" and unless you want to change the looks...and add weight...leave the rest of them like they are.

On larger models (I fly mostly 5+ pound models off floats) the foam must be reinforced...just cover with 1/16 balsa; then either use Monokote to cover, or spray with Varathane to seal the wood.

Terry (a water-head in Oregon)

[Ironsides]

I painted finishing epoxy resin on the bottom of my floats to give a bit of hardness.

I think packing tape would be easier and better.

David

[jimsp]

I covered the bottom of my floats with the colored covering tape that they sell for covering foam wings. Your LHS probably has it. To keep weight down I wouldn't cover anything but the bottom of the float regardless of what method you use.

[fletch]

FWIW I am having the exact same problem . I have hollow floats from foamfloats.com and it seems you have to have too much heat to get the cover to stick. I just pulled off the oracover and it melted/warped part of the foam. Yet if I tried to go light on the heat it wouldn't stick and left tons of wrinkles. I am about ready to throw them in the trash and find something thats ready to float. Does anyone make floats for the Slow stick that are ready to go?

Regards,
Fletch


Originally posted by jrsnow
Bought floats for my SoarStar but haven't installed yet. Tried to cover with Oracover (?) but just burned holes in the foam. Two people I know use the SoarStar floats as received, no waterproofing, no covering, just put 'em on and go. I have sprayed with Minwax polycrylic and sanded and plan to spray paint. Any comments would be appreciated. Also have floats for my Lite Stik still waiting my decision on finishing. Great to have this forum.

[jimsp]

Originally posted by fletch
... I have hollow floats from foamfloats.com and it seems you have to have too much heat to get the cover to stick....Fletch
I'm curious as to why you chose hollow floats for the Slow Stick. I made my own floats for the Slow Stick from solid foam and the net weight gain was about 2oz which the Slow Stick can handle easily. I assume if you had bought the solid floats you would have had a net weight gain similar as to what I saw.

[fletch]

Well I was doing everything I could to save weight. Foamfloats say it is lighter (I asked) than the solids. It's like 40bucks where as the solids were like 30 . I am not sure what I am doing wrong as I have never done a covering on foam (well besides packing tape). Only balsa and real monokote (and worldtex). So I am not sure if the problem is me, the foam, oracover or a combinatin of all 3 :)I may just try taping the bottom and see if it will work until I can find something better.

regards,
Fletch


Originally posted by jimsp
I'm curious as to why you chose hollow floats for the Slow Stick. I made my own floats for the Slow Stick from solid foam and the net weight gain was about 2oz which the Slow Stick can handle easily. I assume if you had bought the solid floats you would have had a net weight gain similar as to what I saw.

[fumblethumbs]

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69469&perpage=15&highlight=oracover&pagenumber=1

Never used Oracover proper on foam, but I have use Ultracote and Solarfilm. They were very alike in application, with the Ultracote requiring a touch higher temp for adhesion. Again, I recommend some practice on scraps before tackling the expensive bits. -thumbs

[flipstart]

I made my floats for my slow stick from the soft white foam(lightest) covered with white packing paper applied with titebond II mixed 50/50 with water. Apply glue mixture to float and paper and smooth out. You can apply 1/2 strips beforehand to all the ear points and edges for extra strength (I did not but will next time).

Sanded & Coated with polycrylic, 2-3 coats, sand with 220 grit and painted with acrylic and applied final clear coat of PC.

They work great and look pretty good-won't take sliding on a concrete ramp, but normal W & T is ok. Do not know what they weigh but SS doesn't seem to mind.

Flip

[jrsnow]

I'm going with Terry & Ironsides and covering floats with 2" clear shipping tape. Used spackling to fill heat holes, sanded, painted with acrylic and taped. Looks good and was easy. Happy with slick bottoms.

[fletch]

Well I called a freind for help but I could tell he didn't want to fool with them when he found out they were made of foam.....so

I got all of the pieces they cut out, so I think I will glue them back in and make myself solids.
Then just cover the bottoms and chalk this up to a learning experince :)

Regards,
Fletch

[Graeme Hogg]

After flying at the weekend, I got home to find one of the floats on my Puppeteer had been scraped by a rock and had allowed the float to become wet under the covering.
I had used PVA glue and brown paper, finished with paint and Varnish, but one tiny hole means I've got to strip it right back and start again, or I could just tape over it, but it wouldn't look too great!