Eflite Ascent Electric Sailplane/Park Flyer

[gavoss]

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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/flight.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/flight_t.jpg"></a><br>
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<strong>Specifications</strong>
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<strong>Span:</strong>
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54"
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<strong>Length:</strong>
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32.375"
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<strong>Area:</strong>
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335.56 Square Inches
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<strong>Weight Without Battery:</strong>
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14.25 ounces
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<strong>RTF Weight:</strong>
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19.5 ounces
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<strong>Functions:</strong>
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Throttle, Elevator and Rudder
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<strong>Wing Loading:</strong>
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8.37 Ounces Per Square Foot
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<strong>Speed Control:</strong>
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Eflite 20A
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<strong>Battery:</strong>
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Eflite 9.6V 700mah
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<strong>Covering:</strong>
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Ultracote
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<strong>Retail Price:</strong>
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$69.95
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<big><b>Introduction</b></big>
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<blockquote>
<p>
Note: Horizon Hobby supplied the kit, speed control and battery for this review, and provided a discount on the servos.
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<p>
The Eflite Ascent ARF electric sailplane is marketed as a Park Flyer and electric sailplane. Like most of the model aircraft on the market today, the Ascent wasn't designed as a competitive model, but one for leisurely and stress free sport flying. The Ascent fills that bill perfectly.
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<big><b>Kit Contents</b></big>
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The kit comes covered in fluorescent Red Ultracote, with a fiberglass pod and boom fuselage, and it's ready for radio gear installation. The kit is complete with pre covered flying surfaces, painted fuselage with Speed 400 motor, prop and spinner installed. The recommended 20A Eflite speed control and 8 cell, 700mah battery pack, along with 2 JR241 servos were used for the review.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/contents.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/contents_t.jpg"></a>
<br>Here is everything that is provided in the kit. You will need a battery pack, 3-channel radio with 2 sub-micro servos like the JR 241's and a speed control to finish the Ascent. It's only a short 2 hours from what you are looking at until the Ascent is ready to fly.
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<big><b>Construction</b></big>
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There really isn't any building to be done and an experienced modeler could have the plane ready in about 2 hours. Mine took a little longer than that because I made the stab and rudder removable. This added a few grams of extra weight, but the added convenience of being able to store the plane in its original box more than made up for the weight gain. The 23-page instruction book has many photos and clear text to get through the assembly in short order.
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It was a simple task, installing the 2 recommended JR 241 servos. The pushrods connect to the servo arms with E-Z style connectors, making radio hook ups a breeze. I've talked to a number of Ascent owners and we all seem to have the same problem with the pushrod system, there is quite a bit of friction where the pushrods exit the fuselage. It seems to be caused by the small diameter of the boom. Oddly enough, bending the pushrods away from the fuselage causes less friction. I bent the pushrods so they run fairly close to the fuselage, then when they are hooked to the stab and rudder, the wires are forced away from the fuselage causing the least amount of friction possible.
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As mentioned earlier in this review, I chose to make the stab and rudder removable so I could store the Ascent in its original box. This modification took about ½ an hour and was well worth the effort. I used two threaded pushrod ends as studs mounted in the fin. I drilled two holes in the fuse and stab to allow the studs to pass through. Two 2-56 nuts and washers are then threaded on the studs, the pushrods hooked up to their respective control horns and the Ascent is ready to fly.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/originalstab.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/originalstab_t.jpg"></a>
<br>The stab and rudder were designed to be glued onto the fuselage. Here are the stab and rudder before modification.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/stabnuts.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/stabnuts_t.jpg"></a>
<br>Here is the bottom of the stabs with the fin and stab installed. I use 2 washers on each stud to spread the load. You only need to tighten the nuts finger tight since there isn't any vibration.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/finstuds.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/finstuds_t.jpg"></a>
<br>If you look at the aft stud, you can see there is a 90' bend in the stud to keep it from pulling out of the fin when the nuts are tightened down. What you can't see is there is also a bend in the forward stud, but it's at 45'. Due to the way the fuselage is relieved for the fin, you don't see the bend in the aft stud, but you would see the cutout for a 90' bend in the front wire. I used the ends of 2-56 pushrod wires for the studs. With removable tail feathers, the Ascent fits back into its original box for storage.
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<p>
The Eflite battery pack fits perfectly behind the motor. One Ascent owner I talked with used an aftermarket battery. This required removal of some of the plastic tray in the fuselage to allow the battery to fit properly. I used the recommended Eflite 20 ESC and it's performed flawlessly and it's small and light. 'Just what's needed in an electric model.
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<p>
In a case of gross overkill, I used my new JR PCM 10X transmitter and receiver to control the Ascent. There actually was a good reason to use the 10X in this plane. I didn't want to risk an expensive sailplane or giant scale aircraft to test a new radio. A $65 plane like the Ascent is perfect for testing new radios. Needless to say, the radio functioned perfectly and virtually all of the mixing capabilities remain unused on the 10X, when flying the Ascent.
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<p>
Control throws were set up according to the instruction book, ½" up/down for the elevator, and ¾" either way for the rudder. I charged the battery pack on my Infinity 2 charger and headed for the sod farm. When I arrived, my flying buddy Ken Stone was already there with his Spirit Elite ARF and a couple of other sailplanes. The day was beautiful with light 5 mph winds from the south. Puffy cumulus clouds filled the 85-degree air and it promised to be a wonderful day for soaring. I rechecked everything one more time before committing aviation. Everything checked out properly and it was time to fly.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/holdingascent.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/holdingascent_t.jpg"></a>
<br>Jholine Moore of Oklahoma City poses with her Ascent. Jholine was kind enough to fly the Ascent for the review. Our Ascent's weigh the same, even though she is using a different battery pack.
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<big><b>Flying</b></big>
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<p>
I advanced the throttle and gave her a gentle toss into the wind and the Ascent was, well, ascending. I applied some down trim to keep her from ballooning. It took almost all of the down trim I had available to maintain a solid climb without ballooning or flying too level. I shut the motor down about 90 seconds after launch and started hunting thermals. I found a small bubble that I was able to ride for several minutes before it petered out. I advance the throttle again and headed skyward. I didn't find any lift this round so I was ready to power up after the descent. This time the power of the motor was noticeably less than the last two climbs. I was able to catch another thermal this flight and got somewhere between 7-8 minutes on this climb. I checked the stopwatch after landing and found I got nearly 20 minutes on the first flight! Not a bad start for an inexpensive electric sailplane.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/ascentlaunch.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/ascentlaunch_t.jpg"></a>
<br>Jholine Moore launches her Ascent. While it looks like she's giving the Ascent a mighty heave, a gentle toss with the motor running full tilt gets the Ascent into the air just fine.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/flight.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/flight_t.jpg"></a>
<br>The Ascent at its optimum. Gliding peacefully in the evening air. Ten minute plus flights are the norm for the Ascent. If there is thermal activity in the area, twenty-minute flights or more are easily within the Ascent's repertoire.
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<p>
I found the Ascent could use about all of the rudder throw I could give it. I'm one of those pilots who would rather have too much throw and not need it, than not enough throw and wish for more. I increased rudder throw to the max allowable with the short servo arm and the control horn. I'm getting close to 1" of throw and I like that much better. The elevator throw is more than adequate and some form of mixing down elevator with the throttle will help with the climb portion of the flight.
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<a href="/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/ascent.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/liftzone/2003/aug/acsent/ascent_t.jpg"></a>
<br>I took some artistic liberty with this photo. I think it makes the Ascent look ethereal.
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<p>
Subsequent flights revealed that the Ascent thermals well if you keep the speed up. Climbs are leisurely and you get several launches to winch height from a charge. I think my shortest flight with a full battery was around 10 minutes. This flight was made with a "power flyer" mentality; meaning I wasn't trying to thermal, just fly around like a park flyer would. I spent a fair amount of time at partial throttle.
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<p>
One thing others have mentioned and I experienced myself, is if you leave the motor on for the entire flight, it gets hot, real hot, as in you can't keep your fingers on it without getting burned. There is a small hole in the canopy to allow cooling air to enter the fuselage, and two larger holes at the bottom rear of the pod to exhaust the hot air. I recommend opening the exhaust holes as large as practical and adding some sort of "intake scoops" to allow more cooling to enter the fuselage and cool the motor.
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<p>
I have one thing I'm hoping to change on the Ascent that will turn it into a skyrocket: a 3.7:1 gearbox and a larger prop. I know from F5J experience that this motor/gearbox/prop setup will have a 25-ounce model at nearly 1000' in 90 seconds. This will also allow the motor to turn more freely and should keep it cooler in the process. The only drawback I see is that I'll either need to remove the plastic servo/battery tray and reinstall it farther aft, or make some sort of ugly extension on the front of the fuselage to house the gearbox.
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<big><b>Conclusion</b></big>
<blockquote>
<p>
So there you have it. For the money, I think the Ascent is an excellent value. I'd like to see them available in other colors since currently, everyone looks identical. I plan on adding a stripe on the left wing panel to help differentiate mine from everyone else's. You'll need to keep an eye on the motor temperature, but even if you have to buy 2 motors a year, it's only an additional $20.
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[Fred Sanford]

After flying my Ascent a good deal I decided I wanted to improve the climb. I found two modifications that turn the Ascent into a skyrocket. The easiest mod is to replace the exisiting prop and spinner with a push on Gunther prop. A prettier solution is using a pair of Graupner CAM 6-3 blades in the existing spinner. The climb rate with either of these changes is awesome! BTW I opened up the cooling hole in the canopy as well.

[aeajr]

Thanks to George Voss for a quality review. I had been looking at this plane as something I might buy as a dual purpose travel plane. Something I could put in the car and take with me to either use it as a park flyer or as a thermal plane. Apparently it fits both of those roles, but, based on the motor heating issue it seems to be more biased to the e-glider role than the parkflyer role.

Either way, it looks like a fun little plane. I will keep it on my list of future purchases.

[hopups]

I have enjoying my Ascent for some time....great plane. I have a 400, 11/8 folder, 3.5:1 gearbox. Heck of a time trying to balance, but a great flyer...


looking forward to building a Herr Rally xp.....

[gustabmo]

Hello,

I'm about to start building my Ascent and I liked a lot the idea of making the tailfeathers removable as mentioned in the review.

Has anyone had any problem with this setup?

Tks,
Gustavo

[dprod]

After reading this fine article, I'm ready to take the plunge and join the crowd of happy Ascent owners. Thanks to all for your imput.

[ercouper1]

I bought a used Ascent, installed a 8 cell NiMy 750 ma. battery it had a 6X6 folding prop on it, balanced correctly.
Flew it once no power no climb, motor over heating BIG time, next changed prop blades to 6X3, still no power, no climb, remove the speed 400 7.2 volt motor and installed a 6.0 volt speed 400 motor, climb is good flew for around 15 minutes with about one half the time gliding with motor off, --- the motor almost melted battery was vary hot also.
My question is -- what can I do to keep the motor and battires cooler? beside enlarging the cooling holes, and or adding more cooling holes to fus?

Benard

[pocket rocket]

We use Ascents for a one-design contest at SAGE (Tucson)

the 7.2v motor with Graupner 6x3 prop and 8 cells works quite well.

without a gearbox don't expect a steep climb, let it fly fast at a shallow climb and after 60 seconds you'll be high enough.

haven't needed cooling holes and they've all had lots of flights.

Philip

[ercouper1]

Pocket Rocket,
Thanks for the come back, seems the 7.2v motor did not have the power for a low level climb out (no climb)two or three circles about 10 foot high is all I could get. I ask the other guys in the club (Modesto R/C Club) what they thought, they said the high heat generated caused the magnets in the motor loose power, and would heat-up even more.
I will purchase a fresh 7.2v 400 motor and try again..
Anyone else have any answers, thoughts or suggestions?

Benard

[gustabmo]

I will purchase a fresh 7.2v 400 motor and try again..
Anyone else have any answers, thoughts or suggestions?
Brushed motors do wear out, a new one should solve the climb problem. BTW in my Ascent I got a 6V 400 motor and a 2S (7.4V) LiPo battery... substantial savings in weight and great climbing performance.

Re getting too hot, is it all very crammed up inside the fuse? Post a close-up pic of the inside of your Ascent.

Gustavo

[nr5a]

I put my Ascent on a diet while building it and I'm sure that helped. She weighs just over 15 ozs with battery. Using a Gaupner 6-3 folding prop not only saves about 4 grams but really improves the climb. I also removed the battery/servo tray which was another 6 grams. Then I mounted my servos farther back. I fly with a 3 cell 1200 li-poly and get 40-45 minute flights every time. On the front with the spinner removed I drilled out 3 holes and enlarged them to give more cooling air which helped. I still have a heating problem and working on that. Last time I flew I did 10 loops in a roll then went back to gliding. I just love this plane!!

CrashinJ

[aeajr]

I bought a used Ascent, installed a 8 cell NiMy 750 ma. battery it had a 6X6 folding prop on it, balanced correctly.
Flew it once no power no climb, motor over heating BIG time, next changed prop blades to 6X3, still no power, no climb, remove the speed 400 7.2 volt motor and installed a 6.0 volt speed 400 motor, climb is good flew for around 15 minutes with about one half the time gliding with motor off, --- the motor almost melted battery was vary hot also.
My question is -- what can I do to keep the motor and battires cooler? beside enlarging the cooling holes, and or adding more cooling holes to fus?

Benard

I don't have an Ascent but have read many good posts on the plane. Let me as a few parkflyer type questions that may bring something forward.

Battery Confusion. - NICD or NIMH. A 750 mah NIMH pack is probably AAA cells which do not have the ability to deliver enough current to a geared speed 400 motor. That motor could be pulling 7-12 amps which is beyond the ability of the battery. The motor will run, but will not develop full power. Depending on the type of ESC, if the pack is over worked, the ESC will start at full power then drop off soon after due to the excessive voltage drop. On some ESC it will cut the motor.

Have seen this problem in many posts about parkflyers. They give the capacity of the pack but not the size of the cell or type. The 700 mah pack described in the review was probably NICD. As NICD have lower density than the NIMH, they were probably larger cells, 2/3 or 4/5 A cells, perhaps even AA cells.

Put in 2/3 A or 4/5A cells or AA cells and try it again. It is not that NICD have more punch than NIMH is it that capaciity is not indicative of ability to deliver current.

Also, and this is less likely, make sure these are motor batteries and not a transmitter or receiver pack. Those are low C rated packs. They have the high MAh rating but deliver it very slowly, again starving the motor for power.

I am pretty sure this is your problem. Let us know if this helps.

[Miami Mike]

It is not that NICD have more punch than NIMH is it that capaciity is not indicative of ability to deliver current.A good example is the common 2100 or 2300 MAh AA cells available in department stores compared to 1950 MAh HR-4/5FAUP cells. The FAUP cells have about 1/5 the internal resistance and can deliver five times as much current.

[bigbay]

:confused:
There is a lot of confusion about the correct CoG for this model. The manual says 2 3/8", but tests i have read says that 2" is ok. Can anyone share their experience?

[aeajr]

CG is not an absolute number but can be moved over a range. How large varies by plane. More forward, within the range will tend to make the plane more stable. More rear, within the range will tend to make it more responsive.

[bigbay]

Ok, but how do you trim the plane correctly, by moving the battery (for CG)or by trimming the elevator?
Still a bit :confused:

[aeajr]

CG is not an absolute number but can be moved over a range. How large varies by plane. More forward, within the range will tend to make the plane more stable. More rear, within the range will tend to make it more responsive.

You balance the plane by moving weight NEVER by moving the surfaces.

You then set the throws on the control surfaces to the recommended amounts as stated in the manual.

Before you fly you check to make sure that, with the radio on, and the plane/receiver turned on, that all surfaces are centered.

If all is in order, you fly. Then you make minor trim adjustments from the radio as you fly the plane to get it to fly straight and level.

For electric planes I usually use a middle power setting as my reference point for trimming. So if it will fly comfortably at 1/2 throttle, I might use 3/4 to set my straight and level trims. In theory, it should fly the same at all power settings.

However, for a sailplane where you are climbing to height then powering off, your power off trim is the most important setting. Best it to have the plane fly straight and level with no trim inputs at all and with all moveable surfaces level with the stationary surfaces. That has the least drag.

[gustabmo]

Ok, but how do you trim the plane correctly, by moving the battery (for CG)or by trimming the elevator?
Still a bit :confused:
bigbay,

1) use the battery position or lead to set the CG to something that seems reasonable to you... if in doubt use a forward position as it is safer to start with
2) fly the plane
3) use the radio trims to have it fly straight and nicely hands-off
4) do the dive test, which is:
5) climb to at least 150ft, turn the power off and stablish that straight and stable flight which you trimmed it to
6) put the plane in a dive of around 45 degrees, release the sticks and watch it's reaction but be alert to recover in case it gets too close to the ground
- if it recovers from the dive too quickly you have the CG too far forward
- if it recovers slowly from the dive (approx 2-3s to get to horizontal flight), that's a fairly reasonable setting
- if it keeps going at the same angle you have a neutral plane... some people like it like that but it's more of a "pro" setting, you'd better move the CG slightly forward
- if it tucks than the CG is definetely too far back, move it forward
7) move the CG to a new location according to what you saw on the previous step and go back to step 3... don't skip step 3, you have to retrim the plane after each CG location change!!!

Gustavo

[gustabmo]

- if it recovers slowly from the dive (approx 2-3s to get to horizontal flight), that's a fairly reasonable setting
After getting to horizontal flight it will keep pitching up and maybe even stall!

The time I mentioned is from when you release the stick after putting it in a dive until the nose gets to horizontal... after that you should grab the sticks and get control of the plane, don't wait for the stall to happen.

Gustavo

[southern soarer uk]

I`ve flown my ascent a couple of times since replacing the stock prop with a 6x3 it now flys!! :D as to moving the battery ,how is this possible my 7 cell is jammed in tight ; i have considered a geared motor when it burns out and wondered is there enough room? :confused:

[Meko]

HeLp!... I landed my Ascent .... well lets just say "rather firmly". Part of the damage was that a diode that was wired across the motor came completely off. I don't remember why it was there, but I think I put it on because of a recommendation on another group thread. Anyway... the questions are:

Do I really need it? I also had a capacitor #473 across the diode. Do I need the capacitor? and finally and most importantly which end should the the bar on the diode be at? the positive or negative terminal?

P.S. The capacitors from the pos term to the can and the other from the neg term to the can are still in place.

Thanks,
Dave :confused:

[Miami Mike]

Here's an explanation for the diode that sounds good to me:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3780952&postcount=7

The end of the diode with the white stripe is called the cathode. It should connect to the positive terminal of the motor.

The purpose of the capacitors is to reduce spark noise from the brushes that might interfere with your receiver.

[Meko]

Thanks Mike... I'll solder 'er back in!
happy flyin
Dave

[caodang1120]

Anyone try using lipo battery for the Ascent? Can 2 cells work?

[sno]

Yup thats what I used. 2 cell 1320 Thunder Power Prolites
Not near the punch of 3 cells, but the motor lasted forever!
And it would pull it up to thermal land just fine.
(this is with the above recommended 6x3 prop)

[old_dude]

I'm close to finishing the assembly of my Ascent (the only thing I know slower than me is Mr Lin of GWS bring out a P-38 :p ). I got out my trusty incidence meter and checked the decalage DEFINITION (http://www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/decalage.html)
and mine is ~1-1/2 degrees. I very interested in knowing what yours measures....... check it please and post it. There have been a few posts about Ascent flyers experiencing a non-recoverable death dive.

Thanks

Old_dude

[sierra-gold]

It's been awhile since I owned my Ascent.

One change that made CG adjustment and battery pack placement much easier, was to remove all the "plastic form" from just in front of the servo tray forward. A sharp Xacto blade for cutting along the front of the servo tray and some needle nose pliers for extracting the pieces, will really open up that area of the fuse.

SG

[caodang1120]

Anyone ever uses a 3 cells lipo and still gets the CG right? What is the capacity that one has uses with a 3 cells and still fits well in the airplane compartment?

[aeajr]

Just add weight to balance the plane. Not hard. Use coins if you don't have weights.

If you want to match exactly, weight the original battery. Now get a pack that weighs the same. Has nothing to do with MAh capacity.

[RobinChurch]

I'm building my Ascent now, and want to use the modification mentioned here. I'm fuzzy about how the pushrods (with 90' and 45' bends) attach to the fin. Would MUCH appreciate a little more detail or closer picture.



Many thanks!