Coroplasters?????????

[Viper Pilot]

Ok, I've been to Spad to the Bone, and know that some of our members fly coroplast planes.

What's your opinions, do you have any photos, and how abouts some new plans!!

I'm working on a MiG 7 combat from Dave West's Aviation Page (thanks, Dave!!) and I can't believe how quick these things go together!!

I've put in about 4 hours, and about 2 more are needed to finish it up.

Fastest method available, and wow is the plane sturdy!!

Viper

[LuckyArmpit]

Pics...here is one of mine...
Dogfighter
2 mm coro wing, pvc gutterpipe fuse. 4 mm tail group.
Speed 600 motor geared with 3 to 1 MAS box. 12x8 folding prop.
Flies on 7 and 8 cell 1700 and 1250 SCR nicads.
I may transfer my Jeti 30/3 to it though. Isn't real fast but it is
not bad when its breezy. Very durable!
Note that the pic shows an Olympus gearbox and APC 12x8.
Pinion came off and I switched motors and gearbox.


Dave...

[Trizza]

Here's one I designed 2 years ago, and it looks like its become a bit of a common model in the e-spad scene.

Coros-400:
30" span
150 sq in
Speed 400 6V
7*600AE

Great cheap fun. All 3mm coro. The design is on my site (www button down the bottom of my post).

[t_predator90]

How about the SPA3D? I'm thinking of building it soon. Gonna' put on it a really cool trim scheme I have in mind.

This is what I had in mind for the fuse:

[t_predator90]

Here is what I had in mind for the wing:

[Moogee]

Sounds like my G10 - as per the covering thread here (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=141649&perpage=15&pagenumber=2). ;P
That's a Mugi-G10, a nice quick build that weighs in around 150g 'dry', around 400g auw. Plans for it are in development, which means as soon as I can win some evenings back from my job I can get back to working on them.

[Cam Galbraith]

I have a gas powered Dogfighter. It hit the dirt, I haven't flown it since. I'd like to convert it to E, that 600 motor sounds promising!!

Cam

[LuckyArmpit]

'goose, do this. Buy a magnetic mayhem reverse motor. Then buy a 3 to 1 gearbox like a master airscrew. 12x8 prop. Use either 8 or 10 cell SCR's. It will fly fine with that setup. You could even spring for a 30/3 Jeti brushless and run an 11x7 prop on 8 cells. I've crashed mine a few times with no damage done to the plane. Only a broken APC 12x8 prop.

dave...

[ronnath]

i'm beginning to think working with coroplast is one of the black arts - full of mystery.

to wit: i've had zero luck getting adhesives to hold. epoxy, probond, super glue, hot melt, you name it.

i've tried sanding the surface, wiping it down with alcohol, running a propane torch flame over it.

none of that stuff has worked.

c'mon guys, what's your secret?

[Senior Killer]

Got to FLAME it. Pure and simple.

Killer

[Trizza]

I sand lightly (making sure to get decent scratches happening), rub with a bit of metho or acetone if I'm feeling keen, then hot glue. Simple as that. I built a Zagi clone with it, but I have never flown it.

[Billy Haynes]

ronnath -i've tried sanding the surface, wiping it down with alcohol, running a propane torch flame over it.

none of that stuff has worked.

c'mon guys, what's your secret?


I've built a couple spads, Don't know what most people use, but I use Contact Cement. Smells bad, but holds great, just be sure to get the parts togeter correctly the first time.............

[Viper Pilot]

I used the glues Dave West recommended in the building instruction for the MiG 7 . . . .

Contact Cement for hidden, internal surfaces and Goop on visible surfaces or where "gap-filling" is needed. Plus Probond at the wooden wing joints and around the firewall.

So far so good, but I can't say how long it'll hold . . . I'll have to see after a month or so.

I can say, though, that waiting for the contact cement to sit dor a bit is the longest part of building this plane. Fastest method of building I've encountered yet, and light as a feather.

Viper

[Fritz57]

I have a partially built aircore 40. Contact cement works very well. I put this plane aside and decided to go electric.

Hope this helps,
Fred

[LuckyArmpit]

I sand it til the shiny is gone. Then, use CA to glue. Works okay.
Also you can use household Goop which will make a strong bond.

Dave...

[dw1122]

I've learned running a lighter flame over the cloroplast surface to alter the surface chemistry/electric-charge will make it stick to glue. Much easier than sanding.

[ronnath]

ok, guys, you've given me some good hints.

now it's back to the hanger for another try.

[Senior Killer]

I'm ashamed (not!) to admit it, but colored gaffer (duct) tape works amazingly well on this material.

Killer

[uncled]

Originally posted by ronnath
i'm beginning to think working with coroplast is one of the black arts - full of mystery.

to wit: i've had zero luck getting adhesives to hold. epoxy, probond, super glue, hot melt, you name it.

i've tried sanding the surface, wiping it down with alcohol, running a propane torch flame over it.

none of that stuff has worked.

c'mon guys, what's your secret?

You have to use Welwood Contact cement, brush on thin and let dry for a while, maybe 20 minutes to a half hour. when not tacky to touch its ready to press together. acetone will release it if you get it wrong.

[Viper Pilot]

DAP Weldwood is the stuff I use. I think this is what uncled is recommending.

Works great.

I like the suggestion of using a "woodpecker" for Probond. Will give it a try on my next SPAD (think I'll try a Spitfire next).

VP

[zaf]

The trick is in the manufacturing process........

I had some 2mm made, and explained the glue problem to them, and they treated it with "something".

The stuff made for signs is coated with a UV protector, and something else for the screen printing process. With all that eliminated, and the coating for glue, all is well!!!

Andrew.

[Cam Galbraith]

I used a torch to flame it till the coro turned slightly brown, Then I used epoxy and ca with excellent results.

How much will a reverse Mayhem 600 sized motor and speed control cost? Also, Cna I use standard receivers and servos? Thanks

Cam

[Viper Pilot]

Cam,

Magnetic Mayhem @ Tower Hobbies (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXW929&P=7)

Good price.

[mkirsch1]

Simply brushing the coro with a torch won't cut it. It needs to be a nice tight blue flame first and foremost, and you need to either be able to see the "wave" as the coro flashes, or you need to "toast" it slightly, torching until the coro discolors.

Don't touch the flashed portion of the coro. The oils on your fingers will ruin the flash job.

Handibond has come out with a new CA specifically for coroplast. http://www.handibond.com. I got mine from a place in Hawaii, but shipping's expensive and I haven't had a chance to try it yet. Reports from the SPAD guys are very positive, though.

[Cam Galbraith]

Thanks Viper. Will look into converting. But is it possible to use a full size radio in that? I don't trust Hitec 55's and Pico receivers!!

Cam

[leccyflyer]

I'm a firm believer in using Correx for models- the Mugi was a revelation to me when I first flew mine and the material also has loads of other modelling uses- such as making wing joining tubes in parkflyers, making model transport boxes etc etc. Brilliant stuff.

Anyway we have a SPAD forum now and this highly informative thread would best fit over there so I'll send it on over.

Have fun!

Brian

[Viper Pilot]

Thanks, Brian,

I discovered the SPAD site after this thread.

It's right at home now!!

Viper