Newbie!! Shuttle - Vibrations??

[Oily]

Ey Up :o)
I have a Z-TS with a serious vibration problem. I think it 'might' be the
clutch, or the engine/clutch alignment.
I've balanced everything that moves (I think?) but it's still there?
The only thing that I can think of, is that the engine didn't 'seem' to line
up perfectly with the bell-housing, but it's as close as it can be (rack o'
th'eye) with the adjustment available without putting too much strain on the
bearings.
So...is there a procedure for lining these things up? ...Any special tools?
I remember seeing 'the use of a dial gauge' being necessary but I don't see
how this would help?
Also (cough), my first start-up was at full throttle (I know...! ) for
about 5 secs.
The clutch is definitely NOT burnt out, but could this be the source of the
vibration?

Ta...

Oily.

[Peter Christy]

"Oily" <davematthews(AAATTT)bigfoot(DOTTT)com> wrote:

> Ey Up :o)
> I have a Z-TS with a serious vibration problem. I think it 'might' be the
> clutch, or the engine/clutch alignment...... <snip>

You need to be a bit more specific, as there are an awful lot of places on a
helicopter that can cause vibration.....

Engine and clutch alignment usually results in a very high frequency "sizzle",
whch can be felt through the side frames as you carry the model to the flight
line. It also often results in the horizontal stabilizer acting like a tuning
fork in flight!

Tail rotor imbalance (often caused by a bent T/R shaft) results in a medium
frequency vibration that often causes the skids to shake.

Main blade vibration (due to poor balance or bent shaft) causes a low frequency
vibration that usually has the tail boom wagging up and down, though this can
also be caused by an extremely out of balance tail rotor.

There is a considerable amount of overlap between the symptoms for any given
cause, but the above should give you a good starting point to pin it down.

If your Shuttle uses a tapered collett on the crankshaft to seat the flywheel,
lubricate this with a bit of washing-up liquid (not oil!) before fitting the
flywheel. This will ensure that the flywheel seats accurately on the
collett.......

--
Pete
christy@NOattglobalSPAM.net
(make the obvious amendments to reply!)

[MPA]

>Sorry, it was a bit vague wasn't it :)
>The whole thing shakes as it spools up and it gets less noticeable the
>faster it gets.

Thats your problem and pretty common
The heli gets a resonance with the training sticks it wont get by
itself.
To fix it take the balls off the ends and cut and inch off each
trainer leg then refit the balls.
Try it, if no good take off another inch should do it.

[MPA]

On Sat, 5 Jul 2003 00:21:54 +0100, "Oily"
<davematthews(AAATTT)bigfoot(DOTTT)com> wrote:

><SNIP>
>
>Woohoo!!
>That's better! :-))
>- MPA... I also made a smaller,lighter training gear too...cheers.

Its pretty common and the co who makes the trainer sticks should stick
that advice on the packet.

>
>I don't know which bit was causing the shakes, but they're gone now.

The heli has vibrations all the time, the rotors are the lowest
frequency and hardest to dampen.

The training legs pick up the rotor vibration and reflect it back to
the heli, that may be a harmonic of the frequency the heli emitts to
the legs so it resonates into infinite levels till something breaks
off or you shut it off..
Changing the leg length simply changes the frequency reflected back to
the heli from the legs to one that will never be a harmonic of the
heli vibration emitted to the legs (that causes it to resonate into
self harm) and that ends the shakes problem.

Fair to say that any new flier who reports vibration issues and has
training legs on should attend to this before throwing money and time
at any heli problems.

>I just wish I'd taken some spare tail rotors 'cos I managed to break one on
>tank No. 3 (What's that rock doin' in a quarry?!?)

Watch the dirt and small stones, remember you have an open air intake
at the carby.
The trainers keep it up a bit but once they are gone if your still
flying at various locations (not in a club) get youself a lump of
carpet to land and take off from so it doesnt cop any dirt.
You can also kneel on it to juice up etc, stops your trouser knees
turning green from the grass or wet from frost.

>
>- David... The tail wasn't 'wagging' so I guess the gain is ok.
>
>It was quite windy tonight, but I HAD to see if it was any better.
>I think a nice cheap HH gyro would make things a little easier on the brain
>too.

Like a radio a gyro is something that lasts a long time (or should)
and may outlive this heli so get something decent.
Cheap is not better in any sense of the word, just use the min
settings a better one offers and dont get fancy, itll work better than
a cheapo one in std mode then you can tinker with it later when your
doing laps (circuits).

[Oily]

<SNIP>

> Like a radio a gyro is something that lasts a long time (or should)
> and may outlive this heli so get something decent.
> Cheap is not better in any sense of the word, just use the min
> settings a better one offers and dont get fancy, itll work better than
> a cheapo one in std mode then you can tinker with it later when your
> doing laps (circuits).
>

Yeah...I'm sure you're right there. I've got a 'bargain-basement-cheap' std
gyro now, and I don't think it's doing me any favours ;-)
The general view here appears to be that the csm 540 is pretty good, so I'm
gonna look for one of those.

I like the 'carpet' idea too!

Cheers :o)


Oily.