PDA

View Full Version : t-maxx e-bay auctions and owners' report


Alex C//415
Jun 01, 2003, 04:01 AM
Punch up e-bay, punch in t-maxx 2.5, and generally, you can bid on about
500-700 items. To me, many of the more interesting auctions are for things
that people have taken right off a Maxx that is fresh out of the box, things
like diff's and tranny's, complete front ends, skid plates, etc. At one
point I was bidding on over 40 items at once. I have bidded on over 300
items in the last month or so. I haven't won but one or two!! I got a
decent deal on some new bearings, and some assorted screws for about ten
bucks that would've cost about $20 at the LHS.

What I have noticed is that at the close of the auction, the price is
generally about what you'd pay at the LHS or off of Tower. The diff's are
generally ending up around 30 bucks or so, plus shipping. What is
interesting, is that if you have the diff cases and collar, you can buy
parts #4981 ($12) and 4982 ($9) and have a as-new diff. Assembly once the
diff is removed is about 15 minutes or less. So what are these people
gaining? Tranny's are going for around $60 at the end of the auction. But
if your tranny isn't working, a quick disassemble and inspection usually
reveals $10-20 worth of new parts needed to get going again.

Well, I guess people who don't live near a HS don't mind fessing up for some
high-priced parts and the convienence of deliveries. I'm going to put in a
couple more bids, (stormpowernet), but I don't hold much hope for getting a
good deal anymore..........would you guys stop bidding please! Especially
you clowns who wait until the last minute and outbid me by 25 cents......oy
vey......

Owners' Report:
My t-maxx 2.5 is kicking ass. I am almost always the last truck running at
our local bash. I would not be in this hobby if it weren't for the new e-z
start. I like to catch a nap while my friends work their pull-starts, blow
on fuel tubing, replace igniter batteries, etc...... I start it out running
way rich, and slowly lean it out to a proper slightly-rich tune. I stick
with sane jumps, and stay away from curbs and cliffs. I have given up
replacing the cylinder head protector. I stick with mostly traxxas parts
since they are cheap. Here's my mods:

-new era three-point steel roll-bar-(heavy but adds chassis stiffness too)
-new era alum steering servo protector (almost useless but cute)
-new era tranny protector (oh goodie shiny silver big deal)
-motor-saver air filter (seems to work pretty good, easy to clean, foam is
too expensive to replace constantly)
-traxxas aluminum shock caps--(a must/50weight oil)
-trinity blue shock springs--(another suspension must)
-drilled out the nipple on the exhaust for a little more flow and a lot more
roar
-mip clutch shoes (very little difference from stock, but good bite)
-rpm bulkhead crossbraces (ok but uses a hex wrench that I don't have for my
little cordless screwdriver)

As soon as my compression goes, in goes the forward-only conversion. I have
been running this truck constantly since Christmas and am chugging down
gallon #5 of Traxxas 20%. Currently my brakes suck and everything seems
set-up right. Hmmm. I tried to buy a Rustler 2.5 for a weekend break-in
but guess what, everybody is sold out since that RC mag put one on the cover
with a hottie in a swimsuit.....

Damage report. Here is an estimate of what I have replaced since Christmas:
8 a-arm lowers and hinge pins, both skid plates, 10 glo-plugs, steering
posts and a million screws, 1 gas tank, 3 bent shock shafts, 1 antenna tube,
1 set of bumpers, front bulkheads, 4 turnbuckles (tie-rods?), 2 sets of body
posts, 3 glo-plug wires, 1 controller antenna, 1 diff rebuild, 4 bodies, 1
telescoping axle, 2 spur gears and 2 sets of those darned expensive
slipper-pegs, and buy some Traxxas stock, a thousand screws and fasteners
and body clips, not to mention hundreds of AA's........

Later!!

Alex (e-bay stormpowernet)

Jim Nagorka
Jun 11, 2003, 04:02 AM
Alex C//415 wrote:

> Punch up e-bay, punch in t-maxx 2.5, and generally, you can bid on about
> 500-700 items. To me, many of the more interesting auctions are for things
> that people have taken right off a Maxx that is fresh out of the box, things
> like diff's and tranny's, complete front ends, skid plates, etc. At one
> point I was bidding on over 40 items at once. I have bidded on over 300
> items in the last month or so. I haven't won but one or two!! I got a
> decent deal on some new bearings, and some assorted screws for about ten
> bucks that would've cost about $20 at the LHS.
>
> What I have noticed is that at the close of the auction, the price is
> generally about what you'd pay at the LHS or off of Tower. The diff's are
> generally ending up around 30 bucks or so, plus shipping. What is
> interesting, is that if you have the diff cases and collar, you can buy
> parts #4981 ($12) and 4982 ($9) and have a as-new diff. Assembly once the
> diff is removed is about 15 minutes or less. So what are these people
> gaining? Tranny's are going for around $60 at the end of the auction. But
> if your tranny isn't working, a quick disassemble and inspection usually
> reveals $10-20 worth of new parts needed to get going again.
>
> Well, I guess people who don't live near a HS don't mind fessing up for some
> high-priced parts and the convienence of deliveries. I'm going to put in a
> couple more bids, (stormpowernet), but I don't hold much hope for getting a
> good deal anymore..........would you guys stop bidding please! Especially
> you clowns who wait until the last minute and outbid me by 25 cents......oy
> vey......
>
> Owners' Report:
> My t-maxx 2.5 is kicking ass. I am almost always the last truck running at
> our local bash. I would not be in this hobby if it weren't for the new e-z
> start. I like to catch a nap while my friends work their pull-starts, blow
> on fuel tubing, replace igniter batteries, etc...... I start it out running
> way rich, and slowly lean it out to a proper slightly-rich tune. I stick
> with sane jumps, and stay away from curbs and cliffs. I have given up
> replacing the cylinder head protector. I stick with mostly traxxas parts
> since they are cheap. Here's my mods:
>
> -new era three-point steel roll-bar-(heavy but adds chassis stiffness too)
> -new era alum steering servo protector (almost useless but cute)
> -new era tranny protector (oh goodie shiny silver big deal)
> -motor-saver air filter (seems to work pretty good, easy to clean, foam is
> too expensive to replace constantly)
> -traxxas aluminum shock caps--(a must/50weight oil)
> -trinity blue shock springs--(another suspension must)
> -drilled out the nipple on the exhaust for a little more flow and a lot more
> roar
> -mip clutch shoes (very little difference from stock, but good bite)
> -rpm bulkhead crossbraces (ok but uses a hex wrench that I don't have for my
> little cordless screwdriver)
>
> As soon as my compression goes, in goes the forward-only conversion. I have
> been running this truck constantly since Christmas and am chugging down
> gallon #5 of Traxxas 20%. Currently my brakes suck and everything seems
> set-up right. Hmmm. I tried to buy a Rustler 2.5 for a weekend break-in
> but guess what, everybody is sold out since that RC mag put one on the cover
> with a hottie in a swimsuit.....
>
> Damage report. Here is an estimate of what I have replaced since Christmas:
> 8 a-arm lowers and hinge pins, both skid plates, 10 glo-plugs, steering
> posts and a million screws, 1 gas tank, 3 bent shock shafts, 1 antenna tube,
> 1 set of bumpers, front bulkheads, 4 turnbuckles (tie-rods?), 2 sets of body
> posts, 3 glo-plug wires, 1 controller antenna, 1 diff rebuild, 4 bodies, 1
> telescoping axle, 2 spur gears and 2 sets of those darned expensive
> slipper-pegs, and buy some Traxxas stock, a thousand screws and fasteners
> and body clips, not to mention hundreds of AA's........
>
> Later!!
>
> Alex (e-bay stormpowernet)
>
>

I had the same problem with the brakes. It took me about 20 feet to
come to a stop at full throttle. I decided to go ahead and do the dual
disk conversion on it. I went up to the hobbie store and bought a new
disk and brake kit. Was cheap. Then I took apart the truck and used my
compressor with a grinding bit and made some room for the second disk
by grinding out some of the frame in the front where the disk is. I put
the first disk back on, then the pad, second disk and the second pad.
Everything fits back in with just the stock parts. After that I
reassembled, adjusted everything, and cut down the little rubber tubing
on the brake wire (left half). Now I can come from full throttle to a
stop in about 4 feet. If you brake too much you will even skid or bring
up the rear. I am really satisfied how it turned out, and CHEAP.. Only
pain was grinding the aluminum frame, but if you have some sort of
dremmel then it isn't so bad.

-Jim