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Robert Youens
Jul 12, 2009, 09:05 PM
Like many of you I am flying in very high heat conditions right now. I have taken several steps on my plane to decrease motor heating and would like to start a discussion on the subject:

1. Cut out the cowling a little larger than the motor to allow air flow over the motor.

2. Use an aluminum motor mount to help dissapate heat of the rear bearing vs using wood or carbon which would not dissapate heat nearly as well.

3. Use props for electric motors that bring the pitch very close to the hub which dramatically increased airflow through the motor. I used a prop for a fuel plane for a while, but the prop was very large at the hub, blocking much of the airflow.

4. Use nose cone no larger than the hub of the motor to avoid direction air flow around the motor. I have noticed that some are using 2.75" and larger nose cones which would seem to block all airflow away from motor.

5. Removed the muffler air flow baffeling designed for gassers from my plane to improve air flow over batteries.

6. Opened 2 large exit holes (2" by 5.5") for air flow to exit the bottom of the fuse.

7. Try never to fly my batteries more than 60% to 70% of battery capacity to avoid system heating.

8. Try to keep max amp draw to no more than 80% of ESC and or Battery capacity (except for very short bursts).

I have not had to add fans or ducting to improve air flow over my batteries or motor since air flow is very good in these areas.

For those that are flying electic scale and use large nose cones, how do you keep from overheat your motors.

Please share additional tips or comments.

Robert

c-182
Jul 13, 2009, 02:15 PM
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12626877&postcount=3921

I like this method .

eye4wings
Jul 13, 2009, 04:01 PM
As a scale flyer I use a motor so far below its' maximum rating that it scarcely gets warm. So the large spinner is not a problem.
It's the batteries that need a good airflow and at the moment my models all seem to be Gypsy six powered so there is an air intake just in the right place for them. Because my models are mostly classified 'giant scale' I use a separate battery pack for each motor, normally in the engine nacelles to keep wiring to the minimum.
Its the getting rid of the warmed air that is more of a problem for me. I have often omitted the glass from rear cockpits, but the Percival Q6 (atavar) uses an exhaust hole in the rear of the nacelles coupled with a route for some of the air down the UC pants. Current build (DH Heron) I'm providing with outlets on the inboard side of the nacelles where I hope they won't notice too readily.

Robert Youens
Jul 13, 2009, 06:52 PM
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12626877&postcount=3921

I like this method .


Me Too! That is the kind of stuff I was hoping to see.

Robert