Styrene vs Plywood

[RussCA]

Like to know your thoughts on making a battleship superstructure from either styrene or marine ply.

I cannot really give you a good reason why but i would like to make it from Ply but i do see a number of problems with this, namely:-

1. Ply is a lot less flexible than Styrene
2. Ply would or could make the ship top heavy compared to styrene
3. Expense

anyone have any other reason for and against

[steveciambrone]

You can make it top heavy with both materials, just select your thickness of either ply or styrene appropriate for what structure you are trying to reproduce. Since it is only superstructure there is no need for thick material. Plywood comes as thin as 1/64" and is very flexible. You can always mix the materials also.

Steve

[ropanach]

I have built with both and others, ply has a much longer shelf life and is more durable,
styrene is more plyable but will self destruct unless you protect it with a UV coat of some type.

[FightingSailor]

You must seal the grain of wood, which adds to the weight. Also the paint will eventually crack on wood and the grain will show again.. Stay away from wood on an operational model (unless the subject was wood).
I wouldn't use styrene either.... Try using Polycarbonate (lexan) it is strong, light, resiliant, takes paint easily and is easy to work. Styrene strips and bits are fine for detail work.
I am set against wood for warship models... You are simulating a steel structure, you want sharp edges and no wood grain..... In order to sufficiantly seal wood from the water you will operate in you will be compelled to build up a tremendouse amount of paint which KILLs the scale apearance of your model. Stay away from wood unless you are modeling a wood structure i.e. teak decks, minesweepers, sailing ships etc... Plastics simulate the look of steel structures and are far easier to work.

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

I've used both wood and styrene for superstructures, and
don't have any issues with either. However, when I am
building around windows I prefer styrene, because there
is no chance for the material to split along the grain as
I cut openings. Sealing wood can be a lot of work, but
if done properly the results can be equal to styrene.
I find that a lot of weight issues can be avoided if
the floor and ceilings of deck levels are left as open
as possible, not solid sheets of plywood between decks.

:)

[mfr02]

And of course, there are those who have the ability and opportunity to use aluminium sheet (litho from print shops), or brass, and do soldered construction.

[patmat2350]

If truly a battleship (not a modern CG or DD), then top weight won't be an issue! I have used Sintra, but I also like plywood- wood is just so nice to work with. But instead of laboriously sealing and sanding it, I sheath it with 0.010" styrne, works great. Don't apply styrene over sheet wood though, it moves too much with humidity, you get lots of wrinkles (experience talking...).

[Prins Willem]

Another thing in styrene's favor is you are going to have to drill port holes and with styrene you will get cleaner holes and no tearing of wood fibers.

If there are any sign shops near you stop in and see if they have any scraps or leftovers they would be willing to make a deal on.

Some twenty years ago I bought a full sheet of .060 and one of .030 from Cadillac Plastics (bought by GE and no longer in the retail business). It was allot cheaper than buying Evergreen or Plastruct at the LHS. The sheets are about gone so I will have to price out some sheets at the other plastics supplier in the area.

[RussCA]

Thanks All for your opinions....

I do have a Tap Plastics locally where i could purchase quite a large qty of the styrene so not too worried about availability.

Never did consider the wood fiber issue and this would certainly be a pain, also never considered brass plate and soldering as a possibility.

Another thing that i am concerned about is fragility and i know there was a post on here a few days ago touching on the subject. After all the effort i am going to give in getting this thing built i really want it to be as tough as well as technically correct as i can make it.

[FightingSailor]

If you have a good plastics supply retailer in your area... Give polycarbonate a try. You will not regret it. Not fragile like styrene but works the same (same glues, paint, cutting technique etc...) Very resilient stuff ( they make bullet proof glass with it).

[Norway2112]

I built the entire superstructure of a large ocean liner from sheet styrene, including the decks. The advantages are great! Thin light weight walls, easy to put window glazing in, easy to work with, smooth metal like finish. My advice though would be to coat it in a good coat of paint to protect it, also use plenty of plastic cement when putting it together. BEWARE of heat, long period of exposure to direct sunlight (couple hours) and things start expanding. It can get ugly, especially if you didn't get everything glued in real tight, trust I speak from experience! If I had to do over I would have done all the decks in thin scribed wood rather than grooved styrene, but I'm still very pleased with the results on the walls. Theres almost 1000 windows in the superstructure and they're all glazed and look great, no idea how i would have accomplished this in wood due to its fibers and thickness.

Never worked with acrylics, would like to as it is less affected by heat and sunlight. It does require special adhesives from what I gather. Have seen several good models built that way but no experience myself.

[W.L Upshaw]

What Battleship are you building and what scale is it?

[RussCA]

1/128th Fleetscale HMS Howe