what to buy for paint?

[K9000wner]

HI
I just want to know what paint people are using for
ABS plastic ...
whats up .... I have a Victoria (Vic) sailboat and a Koyosho seawind
as well as some other junk but Id like to keep the Vic and seawind from
sun damage as well as to cover the yellowing on them..
could be from water too

so what paint can I use to cover the tops in basic white
that looks good and lasts ...and is tough to maybe
I plan on just using a rattle can ...rustoleum> Krylon or maybe just a
spray of spar varnish?

looking forward to your input :eek:

[Tom Boere]

Hello,

I'am using Motip for grounding and finishing....it's a brand used for car painting.

Tom Boere

[Greysquirrel]

You could use Krylon Fusion for plastic then use 303 protective spray to protect from sun damage.
Or if you want to use another water based paint first spray with Transtar primer, available from auto supply houses and then use any brand of paint.

[spacephrawg]

What is the collective opinion on static model paints such as testors and tamiya?

[K9000wner]

well I had hoped to get a few more definitive opinions or even a
strong consensus but I didn't so I went with krylon fusion but was looking hard at a rustoleum appliance epoxy in white
after reading the rust.m it said high solids and super hard enamel
so as I thought epoxy paint it was not...and I just had no idea what hi solids would do to the detail ( little there is ) on the boat.
the 15 min dry on the Krylon appealed to me as smaller amounts of flying junk would have less time to land ..???....spraying now so will report in a few

[Habanero]

What is the collective opinion on static model paints such as testors and tamiya?My recent Midwest build recommends both for finishing it so I would imagine they are OK.

[Ghost 2501]

tamiya paints are good, but a bit of $$$ hogs

[K9000wner]

I will not be upset or begrudge u a discussion on static models and
paint for them nor the issue that I believe midwest makes fine WOOD boats
however""what paint can to use to cover the tops in basic white
that looks good and lasts ...and is tough.... what paint people are using for
ABS plastic ...""

and I have a wood boat and I need that info too..but ..

"""Originally Posted by spacephrawg
What is the collective opinion on static model paints such as testors and tamiya?"""

[Ghost 2501]

as for that, I use Plasticote enamel on most boats, topped off with clear coat.

nord icelandia is wooden hull glassed, she has plasticote paint, same plasticote used on the abs hulls. deck (wood not glassed) uses brushed on vallejo paint

[Habanero]

I will not be upset or begrudge u a discussion on static models and
paint for them nor the issue that I believe midwest makes fine WOOD boats
however""what paint can to use to cover the tops in basic white
that looks good and lasts ...and is tough.... what paint people are using for
ABS plastic ...""

and I have a wood boat and I need that info too..but ..It isn't a static model and it is not applied directly to the wood but to the fiberglassed hull.

[K9000wner]

as for that, I use Plasticote enamel on most boats, topped off with clear coat.

nord icelandia is wooden hull glassed, she has plasticote paint, same plasticote used on the abs hulls. deck (wood not glassed) uses brushed on vallejo paint


Plasticote clear coat. ???

.......is the Plasticote clear coat a rather hard finish?
do u spray it on the bottom as well?

[Rob_P]

I have had much better luck with Krykon over the Rustoleum sprays with regard to getting a nice finish. Also if the finish with the Rustoleum is not as good as you wanted you have to wait a long time before you can re-apply.
I will never use Rustoleum on a model again.

[Ghost 2501]

Plasticote clear coat. ???

.......is the Plasticote clear coat a rather hard finish?
do u spray it on the bottom as well?

yup, "Plasticote super clear", its a clear varnish, similar chemistry to the colored paint, again comes in a rattle can but generally is used for cosmetic purposes rather than for any hardwearing, as its done to seal decals.

Generally I only treat the sides of the hull from the deck line to the corners of the hull where bilge keels would normally be. the undersides generally dont get done on the ABS boats, they are not normally seen.

on Nord Icelandia because she was a glassed ply hull, it got a full hull treatment. a leak on Nord Icelandia meant the hull was then sanded right back then recoated on the underside with grey primer and 2 entire tins of clear coat.

as regards hardness of finish, its about the same as the regular colored stuff, what I generally use it for is going over the decals to seal them in. lay a high gloss clear coat first, add the water slide decals then once they are set, add high gloss or satin to suit. this makes the membrane of the decals become totally invisible.

[K9000wner]

http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote/sidemenu/odds_ends.jpg
Plasti-Kote ODDS N ENDS SPRAY

This is the Crap I started with a year ago
(I waited that long for it to stop being sticky)
It never did so I sanded most of it off and re did with Krylon Fusion
then it wrinkled on me where I left a bit too much of the p kote behind
now Im paranoid as heck and trying to get this finished.
I want to apply a pin stripe along the side and thought I might
clear coat it..cant believe u use this Crap
but it was nice getting 3oz spray rather than the big cans and throwing
most of it away.
I am thinking of using Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish. spray can..
for clear cote but not sure how it will stand up to water
after it dries ..as u said I will stop at about the water line but
its a sailboat so its all wet anyhow
any one use Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish on a boat? that gets wet?
thanks all

[drakonis]

when i painted my victoria i used automotive paints. i started with a few coats of primer then a base color then the color stripe. i sanded with 400-600 grit between coats. after all the paint i used auto clearcoat them 1500 grit paper to get the smooth finish them a bit of rubbing compound to get the gloss. and i never wax a boat bottom. i have dont this with more than one vic and other boats and no problems with the water. you know car paint stands up to water quite well.

the paint brands i used were duplicolor available at the local parts shop here called schucks/o`reiley auto parts.

[spacephrawg]

I doubt these weather-proof paints come in historically accurate naval camo colors 8>(

[Ghost 2501]

however, clear varnish WILL make them weatherproof

[spacephrawg]

clear varnish will work over anything right? So if I use model paints an then put the varnish on, the varnish wont lift the model paint right?

What brand of varnish did you have in mind? Does it come in matte?

[K9000wner]

yeah Id like to hear some ideas / names of the varnishes used ...
clear coats too

[CornelP]

You could try, as others suggested, automotive paints. I have a bait boat painted with testors as a base (i also do aircraft display models, so I had them around...). I then coated everything in a dual component clear coat. It will harden in minutes, it is extremely solid and is very good in the sun... my baitboat lies in the sun for whole days besides me.... I also used it for another project I started: a balsa Baby Bootlegger. It actually strengthens the whole thing.

[graphixman]

Ditto on the Krylon Fusion. Just make sure the plastic is cleaned with soap and water, or alcohol first.

[spacephrawg]

awesome! I was gonna paint my boat with Tamiya model paints first. Do these varnishes come in flat? Not too keen on the shine for a military boat.

[K9000wner]

You could try, as others suggested, automotive paints. I have a bait boat painted with testors as a base (i also do aircraft display models, so I had them around...). I then coated everything in a dual component clear coat. It will harden in minutes, it is extremely solid and is very good in the sun... my baitboat lies in the sun for whole days besides me.... I also used it for another project I started: a balsa Baby Bootlegger. It actually strengthens the whole thing.

2 part clear coat?
can u please give more info....

[CornelP]

It is an acrylic two component lacquer, base + hardener. I use a local brand: http://www.klar.ro/en/Products/Klar-Special-Coatings/Clearcoats/Klar-13-1-2K-HS-acrylic-Clearcoat
I am sure you can find an equivalent.
For matt paints (military) I used the matting compound:
http://www.klar.ro/en/Products/Klar-Special-Coatings/Additives/KLAR-AM-A-L-Matting-additive

The results are beautiful. I cannot send any pics as the tank I did is now... dead :p

[spacephrawg]

It is an acrylic two component lacquer, base + hardener. I use a local brand: http://www.klar.ro/en/Products/Klar-Special-Coatings/Clearcoats/Klar-13-1-2K-HS-acrylic-Clearcoat
I am sure you can find an equivalent.
For matt paints (military) I used the matting compound:
http://www.klar.ro/en/Products/Klar-Special-Coatings/Additives/KLAR-AM-A-L-Matting-additive

The results are beautiful. I cannot send any pics as the tank I did is now... dead :p


Awesome. I'm guessing I'll need a respirator for this.

Also, tank? RC or static?

[CornelP]

Both... it started as a static "German Pz.Kpfw. VI Tiger Ausf. B (Sd.Kfz.182) King Tiger(Limited edition)" from Trumpeter (excellent model, 1:16), but it was too good to be left like that (check this link to see: http://www.trumpeter-china.com/war513/products/en_message.asp?id=727#).
As for PPE: If you use a spray gun, I would suggest also overalls. First time I used it, my watch was sticky for days... lucky they invented Zippo fluid...

[spacephrawg]

I don't have a spray gun unfortunately. Would this stuff work alright if I just brushed it on?

Also do i have to buy the Klar stuff from the manufacturer or is there a retailer out there?

Thanks!

[CornelP]

I have no idea about resellers... but you can find similar stuff in the US. I just googled "acrylic clear coat" and came up with this: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/auto_paint_clearcoat.aspx.

The urethane one is thicker, can be applied by brush, it will self level quite nice.
Normally, with a good quality brush, you should achieve a good result. Both coating types can be buffed or polished, waxed... just like the car. That's why I love them.

[spacephrawg]

It is an acrylic two component lacquer, base + hardener. I use a local brand: http://www.klar.ro/en/Products/Klar-Special-Coatings/Clearcoats/Klar-13-1-2K-HS-acrylic-Clearcoat
I am sure you can find an equivalent.
For matt paints (military) I used the matting compound:
http://www.klar.ro/en/Products/Klar-Special-Coatings/Additives/KLAR-AM-A-L-Matting-additive

The results are beautiful. I cannot send any pics as the tank I did is now... dead :p


I've been searching for an equivalent for the past couple of hours and am having difficulty 8>(

[CornelP]

Ok, more detils: attached are images with the will be Bootlegger. The back cover was sanded for another coat. It shines nicely...
As for similar stuff on the net:
http://www.prattandlambert.com/products/industrial-maintenance/paint/
http://www.superior-industries.com/ultrathane_product_245.html?gclid=CIeetfb0vpoCFYE_ 3godWF4HrQ
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm this is quite cool... in a spray!

[spacephrawg]

Ah. Neat. Anything in matte?

[CornelP]

Try this:
http://www.spaceagepaint.com/product_detail.aspx?id_product=8956

[K9000wner]

wow, see I was trying to buy off the shelf and looking to
pinch pennys too...

5gals wit activator at 57$ plus spry gun, air system,
that new respirator vs (hanky on face) .
the dust free hepa filter paint booth ,loss of garage privileges-spare room retrofit
loss of girlfriend... dog learns to eat whatever he find on walks
court cost for running business in private sector ....

I think I will just buy a new boat after this one turns yellow but thanks all the same

[CornelP]

Solutions:
1. Move somewhere remote
2. Change GF
3. Buy a cat
4. Change hobby (stamps?)
5. Find a car body shop in the area, they could give it a spray for pennys...
6. The last one to try: http://www.titanlux.com/productos.asp?id_linea_producto=5 . Works perfectly with a brush, no odor, made for boats...

[CornelP]

That would be the:
POLYURETHANE + ACRYLIC ENAMEL, made for decking

[K9000wner]

used for decking? ok that seems close.

does it come in 1/2 pints


""If you would like to receive more information, in addition to that offered on our web page, we would ask you to fill out the form designed for this purpose, or to get in touch with our "attention to the public" telephone service:

Titanlux service:
Spain 93 479 74 94


You can also write to the following address:

Industrias Titán S.A.
Pol. Ind. Pratense, calle 114, nº 21-23
08820 El Prat de Llobregat (Barcelona)

E-mail: infoservi@titanlux.es ""



just trying to figure what to tell them as critical info. needed ?
for my needed approx 1/3 meter squared coverage issue...
how long till they get back to me do u suppose?

[CornelP]

Yes, and I think they also ship to the US. The one I got was under 20$... good for about 14sqM (5 boats/3coats each...)

[norgale]

Sometimes I think we make too much of a subject. It's obvious from reading this thread that there are lots of options in painting and tons of product to choose from. I doubt that anyone could know all about all the different paints so a forum like this is very helpful.
However for plastic models ,styrene or ABS or what have you, I'd go with enamal which is what I use on all my plastic models. Sand the surface lightly,aply a base coat or primer and then subsequent coats untill the desired cover is achieved. This goes for spray or brush colors.
I use Rustolium and Krylon mostly and although a clear coat is good on deck areas I like to leave the hull uncoated so I can wax the paint to keep it from yellowing and to clean the paint after a session in the big muddy. Ordinary Turtle Wax is as good as anything and it has a cleaner and a polisher in it to bring back the nice clean white color when needed.
Varnished or clearcoated areas will clean up with a damp cloth or sponge but may yellow after a time. Then it has to be sanded and refinished.
One rule that keeps me out of trouble is to always use a primer of the same make as the paint. If you mix manufacturers paint you might cause orange peel on the work piece and then you have a big job ahead of you refinishing not to mention all the lost time. Also remember that several light coats are way better than one heavy coat and a lot less likey to develope runs.
We all spend tons of time on our models to get them to look just right. Don't hurry the painting either. If you have to let the paint dry overnight then do that. A screwed up paint job makes all the rest of the work look bad so TAKE YOUR TIME. Pete

[K9000wner]

thanks pete and cornelp...
I have krylon fusion on the top and a bit of the crapy old stuff (Ref post 14 this thred)
on the sides and I want to add one more pinstripe that goes from top
to a line on the side. and that will be a testors small jar stuff and I will most
likely brush it on and hope the polycrilic rattle can
http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-15116/11.5-OZ-Aerosol%2C-Crystal/Detail
or Varathane spar urethane (water based) rattle can
http://www.activefoxmall.com/PAINT-DECOR/INDOOR-PAINT/250281-SP-SATIN-VARATHANE-per-6-EA.html
each at about 7$ a can Will cover the brush marks protect the boat.
I will be stopping at about the waterline and waxing bottom or maybe lust leaving below the waterline alone...

any thoughts between the two rattle cans ?????

[K9000wner]

anyone have any input on these two spray cans???

[BOZINATOR]

Just use Appliance epoxy.... drys hard ,washable and you can see yourself in it. It takes a few days to really dry well, although you can handle it in a few hours. I bought mine at home depot.


As far as striping... just use the old fashon rolls of hobby striping, or the auto type found in most all of the major auto store.

jim:o

[CornelP]

I would go for the second can, as it is a more reputable brand, but, at that price, Minwax is a lot better... If you go two layers of testors, sand it with 1000# before the clear coat and it should turn out fine. ALWAYS sand before clear and between layers.