Fibrelease experience? non VOC

[skinnydoc]

Hello.... I just got some of this "green" release agent here: http://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-category-Wedges,%20Mold%20Releases%20and%20Clips-152.html

anyone tried it before?

I have some frekote770 on order, but thought I'd try something else in the meantime.

It is super easy to use, wipe on, dry 5min, then start your layup (per instructions that is). I am sick of dealing with wax n PVA.

thanks

Ben

[wyowindworks]

I don't recommend it. I've messed around with it some, and have been very skeptical. It's similar to the Zyvax water based products, but not as effective. Fibreglast.com support center doesn't know diddly about it either. They knew nothing about the surface prep. for it's use. The instructions say your supposed to wipe it on and let it dry. When I tried it, it beaded up and took much longer than 5 minutes to dry....and it left spots on the surface...and I got a poor release. I suspect some type of mold sealer would help it's performance. I also only tried one coat. Maybe multiple applications would help.

Maybe, you'll have better luck.

Adam

[skinnydoc]

the stuff did indeed dry in 5min (with the beading), and I laid up the tail end of an old fuse mold, and an old canopy mold. We'll see how they release tomorrow. The surface of the mold gets dulled some with the application, but I wondered if that would transfer to the part?

Adam, were you able to buff the Frekote treated molds, as they state in their literature?

thanks

Ben

[wyowindworks]

Did you apply it to a mold that had been waxed? The tech. people at fiberglast.com did say that it should be applied to a wax free surface. I'm sure nothing will happen, but the some of the Fibrelease with probably transfer to the part.

I buffed the Frekote/mold right after application to reduce streaking. I doesn't buff up like wax. I typically mimics the mold surface.

Adam

[skinnydoc]

the mold was wax free.

if the fibrelease sticks to the part, maybe I can use acetone to wash it off (as stated in their literature), and get an acceptable finish.

I'll report back how it goes.

Ben

[wyowindworks]

the mold was wax free.

if the fibrelease sticks to the part, maybe I can use acetone to wash it off (as stated in their literature), and get an acceptable finish.

I'll report back how it goes.

Ben

Let us know. I've had a quart sitting on my shelves for over a year now....it's probably gone bad.

Adam

[Fabrice67]

Hello Skinnydoc,

i use Frekote nc 770...! Its the best release system i never use!!.
Its simple for use : 2 applications with 10mn drying between, and polishing slowly. Then 2applications with 10mn drying between and polishing....
That's all. So you have a mold shinning like a miror..

This release system is so good, that i can only use a 2 composant paint...! The others paint slide on the mold...


I such photo and i sent it.

Bye
Fab

[skinnydoc]

being impatient, I tried to pull out my parts this AM, with the epoxy very nearly completely dry (very sl tack). Maybe not fair to not wait (or is it easier when not fully cured?), but parts were quite hard to remove as predicted. With a plastic wedge I got em out, but still cant get out the canopy completely.

Well so much for fibrelease I guess, I'll check my order for 770 today.

Maybe I'll try it again later when I have more skills.

Ben

[wyowindworks]

Ben, most release systems require that the part be cured past any tackiness. Parts can be pulled early with wax and PVA because the PVA releases from the wax. Painted parts with Frekote can get pulled early because the paint has dried forming a barrier between the release and the epoxy.

[Fabrice67]

wyowindworks, you think frekote is good for release in the mold?

Fab

[wyowindworks]

wyowindworks, you think frekote is good for release in the mold?

Fab

Frekote is excellent in painted molds. The release is very easy, reliable, and fast to apply.

I don't like using Frekote in molds that don't get painted. Because Frekote has such a high lubricity, the epoxy beads up on the surface and doesn't hold the fabric in position as well. I often get bubbles and pinholes when not using a vacuum bag....many get pinhole when using a vacuum bag.

I use Frekote when the molds are painted. I use and wax and PVA when there is no paint in the mold.

Adam

[Fabrice67]

Ok, when i all good translated ; mold+paint=frekote and mold+époxy=wax/pva..!

thank you.
Fabrice

[wyowindworks]

Ok, when i all good translated ; mold+paint=frekote and mold+époxy=wax/pva..!

thank you.
Fabrice

That is my opinion.

Adam

[chetosmachine]

I agree with Adam!

[skinnydoc]

If I want to try some painting in the mold (someday), can I just do some Krylon rattlecan? I know it wont be as durable, but it would be fun to play around with it.

thx

Ben

[wyowindworks]

If I want to try some painting in the mold (someday), can I just do some Krylon rattlecan? I know it wont be as durable, but it would be fun to play around with it.

thx

Ben

Yep, you can use krylon. Or your can get a quart of Dupli-color (auto parts store) and spray it out of your Harbor Freight gun. No mixing...just pour and spray....whatever you don't use, you can just pour back in. It works much better for spraying mylars and molds. Set you gun to just barely open the needle for the first few coats. They will dry in just a few minutes. Then you can open up the needle a little more and lay it on. I quite using rattle cans when I discovered this stuff.

Adam

[skinnydoc]

thanks as always Adam.

Is this duplicolor what you are using for your layups?

I used 2 part auto primer to coat my plug, and it was a real PITA, with keeping the gun clean and the smell (with a respirator), etc. So I would love to go to the 1 part paint if it will work well enough, and buff up OK. I see the aussie guys talking about 1 and 2 part auto paint, and I'm not finding much here. Last time I went to the auto paint store in town, they gave me a blank look, because their english isnt so good, and because they've never had someone ask about painting a "plug". I wonder if I can use the 1part for the last coat on my long neglected fuse plug?

thanks

Ben

[wyowindworks]

thanks as always Adam.

Is this duplicolor what you are using for your layups?

I used 2 part auto primer to coat my plug, and it was a real PITA, with keeping the gun clean and the smell (with a respirator), etc. So I would love to go to the 1 part paint if it will work well enough, and buff up OK. I see the aussie guys talking about 1 and 2 part auto paint, and I'm not finding much here. Last time I went to the auto paint store in town, they gave me a blank look, because their english isnt so good, and because they've never had someone ask about painting a "plug". I wonder if I can use the 1part for the last coat on my long neglected fuse plug?

thanks

Ben

Ben, I do use Dupli-color for all my mylar work. All my test runs on the Stinger 45v2 fuse have been with duplicolor also. It works well for me because it has no pot life. Lately, I've had up to 13 molds that I'm painting at the same time.

BTW, it's lacquer based. I get it at O'Reilly Auto Parts. It's around $20 for a quart. Here is a link to the stuff I've been using (http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html).

When it comes to painting parts, I don't like it at all. I tried it once on a plug.....then stripped it off and sprayed the expensive stuff.

Adam