Blew 2 shocks on the TMAXX

[Kevin]

I blew the caps off the left rear shocks, am wondering what the most cost
effective solution is. The threads are toast on the bodies, so they will
need to be replaced. Should I just get the aluminum caps and a couple of new
plastic bodies? I am trying to stay relatively cheap, I know the aluminum
shock set would be the best, but don't have the $120 to spend on them.
Also how full should the shock be before you screw the cap on? (after
purging the air bubbles of course) Should it be to the top with oil or a bit
of room for air?
Thanks for any answers in advance.

[frater mus]

24 Mar 2003: "Kevin" <ORVRider@hotmail.com> wrote

> I blew the caps off the left rear shocks, am wondering what the most
> cost effective solution is. The threads are toast on the bodies, so they
> will need to be replaced. Should I just get the aluminum caps and a
> couple of new plastic bodies?

If the body threads are coming off, I'm not sure that alum caps will help.
Maybe someone else in here can help.

> know the aluminum shock set would be the best, but don't have the $120
> to spend on them. Also how full should the shock be before you screw the
> cap on? (after purging the air bubbles of course) Should it be to the
> top with oil or a bit of room for air?

I think my bandit assembly instructions said to leave 1mm of air at the top
after "bleeding".

--
L.V.X., brother mouse
http://www.mousetrap.net/otr/ Old Time Radio
http://greyhound.mousetrap.net/altus/ retired racer

"What's not fine is rarely is the question asked, are, is our children
learning?" GWB. http://www.mousetrap.net/pie.txt

[Pt3]

You also have to make sure that the shock shaft is all the way inside the
shock(depressed) when you put the cap on, otherwise you are asking for
trouble.

Patrick


"frater mus" <fratermus@softhome.net> wrote in message
news:Xns934955932D5E7ssbmousetrapnet@130.133.1.4.. .
> 24 Mar 2003: "Kevin" <ORVRider@hotmail.com> wrote
>
> > I blew the caps off the left rear shocks, am wondering what the most
> > cost effective solution is. The threads are toast on the bodies, so they
> > will need to be replaced. Should I just get the aluminum caps and a
> > couple of new plastic bodies?
>
> If the body threads are coming off, I'm not sure that alum caps will help.
> Maybe someone else in here can help.
>
> > know the aluminum shock set would be the best, but don't have the $120
> > to spend on them. Also how full should the shock be before you screw the
> > cap on? (after purging the air bubbles of course) Should it be to the
> > top with oil or a bit of room for air?
>
> I think my bandit assembly instructions said to leave 1mm of air at the
top
> after "bleeding".
>
> --
> L.V.X., brother mouse
> http://www.mousetrap.net/otr/ Old Time Radio
> http://greyhound.mousetrap.net/altus/ retired racer
>
> "What's not fine is rarely is the question asked, are, is our children
> learning?" GWB. http://www.mousetrap.net/pie.txt

[TempestNightmare]

Aluminum shock caps work great. And use a piece of teflon tape around the
threads.
When the shocks are filled correctly, you should be able to push the
shaft all the way in then it should come back out itself about 1 1/2 -2
inches.
Jon

"Kevin" <ORVRider@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b5oh54$tqv$1@news.chatlink.com...
> I blew the caps off the left rear shocks, am wondering what the most cost
> effective solution is. The threads are toast on the bodies, so they will
> need to be replaced. Should I just get the aluminum caps and a couple of
new
> plastic bodies? I am trying to stay relatively cheap, I know the aluminum
> shock set would be the best, but don't have the $120 to spend on them.
> Also how full should the shock be before you screw the cap on? (after
> purging the air bubbles of course) Should it be to the top with oil or a
bit
> of room for air?
> Thanks for any answers in advance.
>
>

[Pt3]

Jon, you really can't do that with these shocks. This is one of the reasons
the tops blast off. These shocks have way too much travel to have it fully
extended when you put the cap on. This is the only way they will come back
out when pushed in, but too much pressure is being applied when they are
being pushed in and out very quickly. This is what blows the caps off. This
is a very desirable effect on street runners where the shocks don't have
that much travel, but on trucks all it seems to do is blow the caps right
off. This is especially critical with plastic bodied shock no matter what
the cap is made of. Metal bodied shocks is another story, but still safer
to not put them under pressure.

Patrick


"TempestNightmare" <tempestnightmare@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:S_mcnbqTxb60nxyjXTWc3w@comcast.com...
> Aluminum shock caps work great. And use a piece of teflon tape around the
> threads.
> When the shocks are filled correctly, you should be able to push the
> shaft all the way in then it should come back out itself about 1 1/2 -2
> inches.
> Jon
>
> "Kevin" <ORVRider@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:b5oh54$tqv$1@news.chatlink.com...
> > I blew the caps off the left rear shocks, am wondering what the most
cost
> > effective solution is. The threads are toast on the bodies, so they will
> > need to be replaced. Should I just get the aluminum caps and a couple of
> new
> > plastic bodies? I am trying to stay relatively cheap, I know the
aluminum
> > shock set would be the best, but don't have the $120 to spend on them.
> > Also how full should the shock be before you screw the cap on? (after
> > purging the air bubbles of course) Should it be to the top with oil or a
> bit
> > of room for air?
> > Thanks for any answers in advance.
> >
> >
>
>

[Alex C//415]

I went with the aluminum caps/stock bodies/Trinity blues. So far just
great. In a fit of paranoia I e-bayed another set of new stock shocks to
have as ready backups. The angle here is, traxxas rebuild kits are easy to
come by, so if I feel like keeping them in good shape, that's easy. Maybe
some nitrated rods would be cool too. At the other end of the cost spectrum
are the $300 Progressives. I wonder how many crashing disasters those
external resevoirs would take to break off. I wonder why I am always
crashing.
Later!!

[Matti Remonen]

"Kevin" <ORVRider@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b5oh54$tqv$1@news.chatlink.com...
> plastic bodies? I am trying to stay relatively cheap, I know the aluminum
> shock set would be the best, but don't have the $120 to spend on them.

Get Traxxas Big Bores from Stormer for $64 + P&P. All aluminun & nitrite
coated shafts. The springs that come with the package are crap (softer than
stock), so stick with stock or get 4 progressive springs from the same
place. 4 progressives are enough if you do not have extremely heavy Maxx.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=TRX4962

BR,

MRe
--
return address invalid, use:
matti at remonen dot net

[TempestNightmare]

i was talking about T_Maxx shocks, which ARE long stroke...read the
manual...
Jon

"Pt3" <rfeded@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:9f9ga.100332$iq1.29914@nwrddc02.gnilink.net.. .
> Jon, you really can't do that with these shocks. This is one of the
reasons
> the tops blast off. These shocks have way too much travel to have it
fully
> extended when you put the cap on. This is the only way they will come
back
> out when pushed in, but too much pressure is being applied when they are
> being pushed in and out very quickly. This is what blows the caps off.
This
> is a very desirable effect on street runners where the shocks don't have
> that much travel, but on trucks all it seems to do is blow the caps right
> off. This is especially critical with plastic bodied shock no matter what
> the cap is made of. Metal bodied shocks is another story, but still safer
> to not put them under pressure.
>
> Patrick
>
>
> "TempestNightmare" <tempestnightmare@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:S_mcnbqTxb60nxyjXTWc3w@comcast.com...
> > Aluminum shock caps work great. And use a piece of teflon tape around
the
> > threads.
> > When the shocks are filled correctly, you should be able to push the
> > shaft all the way in then it should come back out itself about 1 1/2 -2
> > inches.
> > Jon
> >
> > "Kevin" <ORVRider@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:b5oh54$tqv$1@news.chatlink.com...
> > > I blew the caps off the left rear shocks, am wondering what the most
> cost
> > > effective solution is. The threads are toast on the bodies, so they
will
> > > need to be replaced. Should I just get the aluminum caps and a couple
of
> > new
> > > plastic bodies? I am trying to stay relatively cheap, I know the
> aluminum
> > > shock set would be the best, but don't have the $120 to spend on them.
> > > Also how full should the shock be before you screw the cap on? (after
> > > purging the air bubbles of course) Should it be to the top with oil or
a
> > bit
> > > of room for air?
> > > Thanks for any answers in advance.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

[Pt3]

This is probably the best way to build T-Maxx shocks that should not blow
the caps off.

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?s=c4d147bc03d5cd360d79ca8aa2e8df51
&threadid=72673&highlight=rebuilding+shocks

Patrick

"TempestNightmare" <tempestnightmare@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:jNqdnYL8s73cwR-jXTWcqg@comcast.com...
> i was talking about T_Maxx shocks, which ARE long stroke...read the
> manual...
> Jon
>
> "Pt3" <rfeded@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:9f9ga.100332$iq1.29914@nwrddc02.gnilink.net.. .
> > Jon, you really can't do that with these shocks. This is one of the
> reasons
> > the tops blast off. These shocks have way too much travel to have it
> fully
> > extended when you put the cap on. This is the only way they will come
> back
> > out when pushed in, but too much pressure is being applied when they are
> > being pushed in and out very quickly. This is what blows the caps off.
> This
> > is a very desirable effect on street runners where the shocks don't have
> > that much travel, but on trucks all it seems to do is blow the caps
right
> > off. This is especially critical with plastic bodied shock no matter
what
> > the cap is made of. Metal bodied shocks is another story, but still
safer
> > to not put them under pressure.
> >
> > Patrick
> >
> >
> > "TempestNightmare" <tempestnightmare@comcast.net> wrote in message
> > news:S_mcnbqTxb60nxyjXTWc3w@comcast.com...
> > > Aluminum shock caps work great. And use a piece of teflon tape around
> the
> > > threads.
> > > When the shocks are filled correctly, you should be able to push
the
> > > shaft all the way in then it should come back out itself about 1
1/2 -2
> > > inches.
> > > Jon
> > >
> > > "Kevin" <ORVRider@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:b5oh54$tqv$1@news.chatlink.com...
> > > > I blew the caps off the left rear shocks, am wondering what the most
> > cost
> > > > effective solution is. The threads are toast on the bodies, so they
> will
> > > > need to be replaced. Should I just get the aluminum caps and a
couple
> of
> > > new
> > > > plastic bodies? I am trying to stay relatively cheap, I know the
> > aluminum
> > > > shock set would be the best, but don't have the $120 to spend on
them.
> > > > Also how full should the shock be before you screw the cap on?
(after
> > > > purging the air bubbles of course) Should it be to the top with oil
or
> a
> > > bit
> > > > of room for air?
> > > > Thanks for any answers in advance.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

[Pt3]

This Link will work better. T-Maxx Shocks

[frater mus]

25 Mar 2003: "Pt3" <rfeded@nospam.com> wrote

> You also have to make sure that the shock shaft is all the way inside the
> shock(depressed) when you put the cap on, otherwise you are asking for
> trouble.

Nice point; I hadn't thought of that. With the shaft fully in it's filling
the maximum volume and that's where the fillpoint should be measured.

--
L.V.X., brother mouse
http://www.mousetrap.net/otr/ Old Time Radio
http://greyhound.mousetrap.net/altus/ retired racer

"What's not fine is rarely is the question asked, are, is our children
learning?" GWB. http://www.mousetrap.net/pie.txt

[TempestNightmare]

Pt, much better directions!! it was very misleading to say that you need to
have the shock shaft all the way up when you fill it...the message you
linked to basically says what the manual does...except the last part...put
the cap on one turn and push the piston in....this sounds like good
advice...I will try it...
Jon

"Pt3" <rfeded@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:O1wga.19233$tO3.8125@nwrddc04.gnilink.net...
This Link will work better. T-Maxx Shocks

[Pt3]

Well, I meant it to read as the link....my wording left much to be desired.

Patrick


"TempestNightmare" <tempestnightmare@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:zIednaBLLMo6MB6jXTWcpg@comcast.com...
> Pt, much better directions!! it was very misleading to say that you need
to
> have the shock shaft all the way up when you fill it...the message you
> linked to basically says what the manual does...except the last part...put
> the cap on one turn and push the piston in....this sounds like good
> advice...I will try it...
> Jon
>
> "Pt3" <rfeded@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:O1wga.19233$tO3.8125@nwrddc04.gnilink.net...
> This Link will work better. T-Maxx Shocks
>
>

[Kevin]

Thanks lots of good info, have alum caps on order now, will do per the post
you linked to.
"Pt3" <rfeded@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:RiOga.20234$tO3.19903@nwrddc04.gnilink.net...
> Well, I meant it to read as the link....my wording left much to be
desired.
>
> Patrick
>
>
> "TempestNightmare" <tempestnightmare@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:zIednaBLLMo6MB6jXTWcpg@comcast.com...
> > Pt, much better directions!! it was very misleading to say that you need
> to
> > have the shock shaft all the way up when you fill it...the message you
> > linked to basically says what the manual does...except the last
part...put
> > the cap on one turn and push the piston in....this sounds like good
> > advice...I will try it...
> > Jon
> >
> > "Pt3" <rfeded@nospam.com> wrote in message
> > news:O1wga.19233$tO3.8125@nwrddc04.gnilink.net...
> > This Link will work better. T-Maxx Shocks
> >
> >
>
>

[TempestNightmare]

We all have these days!! LOL...nice come back though with the link!! hehehe
Jon

"Pt3" <rfeded@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:RiOga.20234$tO3.19903@nwrddc04.gnilink.net...
> Well, I meant it to read as the link....my wording left much to be
desired.
>
> Patrick
>
>
> "TempestNightmare" <tempestnightmare@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:zIednaBLLMo6MB6jXTWcpg@comcast.com...
> > Pt, much better directions!! it was very misleading to say that you need
> to
> > have the shock shaft all the way up when you fill it...the message you
> > linked to basically says what the manual does...except the last
part...put
> > the cap on one turn and push the piston in....this sounds like good
> > advice...I will try it...
> > Jon
> >
> > "Pt3" <rfeded@nospam.com> wrote in message
> > news:O1wga.19233$tO3.8125@nwrddc04.gnilink.net...
> > This Link will work better. T-Maxx Shocks
> >
> >
>
>