ArduPilot 2.2 software released -- now with built-in stabilization!

[zlite]

I'm delighted to announce the release of the ArduPilot 2.2 (http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/ardupilot-main-page) software, now in public beta. This software uses the current ArduPilot hardware but handles the FMA Co-Pilot stabilization function itself, without the need for a separate stabilization unit. It is, in short, a complete integrated autopilot. That little ArduPilot board can do a lot!

2.2 Features:

All the ArduPilot 1.0 functions: programmable 3D waypoints; return-to-launch mode, in-flight reset ability, fully programmable actions at waypoint and totally expandable board.
Now integrates the stabilization and navigation functions, eliminating the need for a FMA Co-Pilot and vastly improving waypoint tracking
Controls elevator, ailerons/rudder and throttle
"Fly-by-wire" mode stabilizes the aircraft in RC mode, duplicating the function of the FMA Co-Pilot
Stores home waypoints and sensor calibration in EEPROM, so they are retained even in the case of a system restart
Currently optimized for the three-channel EasyStar. Versions have also been tested on Funjet and four-channel Superstar (code coming soon)
Currently supports the EM406 GPS and uBlox 5 in efficient binary mode, and all other GPS modules in NMEA mode.
Uses "chained PID loops" to combine the stabilization and navigation functions seamlessly
Uses small desktop app to load ArduPilot settings and waypoints, without having to work with code
Full ground station software with "moving map" capability when optional wireless telemetry is added.

What you need:

ArduPilot board (http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8785) ($24.95)
EM406 GPS module (http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=465) ($59.95)
XY and Z sensors (http://store.diydrones.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SE-0002-01) ($115)
A FTDI cable, such as the this one (http://store.diydrones.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TTL%2D232R%2D3V3) ($20.00)
An expansion board with airspeed sensor (http://store.diydrones.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=KT-0001-01) ($47.50)
ArduPilot 2.2 code (http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot/) (Free)


The product's manual is here (http://docs.google.com/View?id=ddjmqgw3_43gm6gvggf).

[chancesAU]

Very cool! this made me just order one up :)

[aperture]

I have been following the ardupilot development with interest.

Can the ardupilot board used for version 2.0 be modified efficiently when 2.1 releases, or will it be required to start with a new board for that version? Since I am in no great hurry, I could wait, or go ahead with the 2.0 config now, and modify for the upgrade later.

Ken

[zlite]

I have been following the ardupilot development with interest.

Can the ardupilot board used for version 2.0 be modified efficiently when 2.1 releases, or will it be required to start with a new board for that version? Since I am in no great hurry, I could wait, or go ahead with the 2.0 config now, and modify for the upgrade later.

Ken

The hardware has not changed: it's the same board for 1.0, 2.0 and 2.1. These are just software updates. So go ahead and get the board now and you can upgrade the software as the new versions come out.

[brakar]

Would the present code also work with other trainers similar to EasyStar? (HobbyStar, Sig Kadets, ets)

Which Z-sensors will be recomended for the v2.1 software?

brakar

[zlite]

Would the present code also work with other trainers similar to EasyStar? (HobbyStar, Sig Kadets, ets)

Which Z-sensors will be recomended for the v2.1 software?

brakar

Sure, it's just a matter of tweaking gain settings for each airframe. We use the FMA Z sensor.

[Mick Molloy]

Do you also need the male machine pin header, and female machine pin header or do they come with the board from spark fun ?

[zlite]

Do you also need the male machine pin header, and female machine pin header or do they come with the board from spark fun ?

The board doesn't come with any header pins--you need to add them to your order if you don't already have them. You don't need machine pin headers (you can use standard male+female headers), but we like the machine pins better. It's up to you.

[Mick Molloy]

The board doesn't come with any header pins--you need to add them to your order if you don't already have them. You don't need machine pin headers (you can use standard male+female headers), but we like the machine pins better. It's up to you.
Too late I had already completed my order... I will find them locally
I went off the what you need list above.... :confused:

add the macine pins too..

Cheers Mick....

[zlite]

Too late I had already completed my order... I will find them locally
I went off the what you need list above.... :confused:

add the macine pins too..


Sorry. I've now updated that list above to include those.

[Mick Molloy]

Sorry. I've now updated that list above to include those.
Cheers

[air]

Hi Chris,
Those buying the Ardu now might wish to purchase the Z sensor at the same time as the XY from FMA. Is it the FMA sensor which will be used in 2.1?
Thanks,
Fionn.

[zlite]

Hi Chris,
Those buying the Ardu now might wish to purchase the Z sensor at the same time as the XY from FMA. Is it the FMA sensor which will be used in 2.1?
Thanks,
Fionn.

Yes.

[brakar]

Just ordered the Ardupilot kit for my Sig Kadet LT40. Since I am quite new to this stuff, I will have to read and learn quite a lot. Is the best way to start just to browse through all the forum posts here and at www.diydrones.com? Would be greatful for suggestions for best way to proceed.

brakar

[aperture]

I was hoping to buy a ribbon cable from FMA to use for the ardupilot connect, and keep my original intact. I cannot find the ribbon cable on FMA's website, tho I recall it was sold separately in the past. I've emailed FMA, but wonder if anyone else has a link or source?

Ken

[zlite]

Just ordered the Ardupilot kit for my Sig Kadet LT40. Since I am quite new to this stuff, I will have to read and learn quite a lot. Is the best way to start just to browse through all the forum posts here and at www.diydrones.com? Would be greatful for suggestions for best way to proceed.

brakar

We're working on a proper manual, but for now everything you need (instructions, etc) is linked off the project's home page (http://ardupilot.com).

[13brv3]

I was hoping to buy a ribbon cable from FMA to use for the ardupilot connect, and keep my original intact. I cannot find the ribbon cable on FMA's website, tho I recall it was sold separately in the past. I've emailed FMA, but wonder if anyone else has a link or source?

Ken

Hi Ken,

FMA has a 24" and 40" cable that they sell separately for $4.95 each. Just do a search on their site for these numbers:
2MMFRC4P2X24 (24")
2MMFRC4P2X40 (40")

I don't have a Z sensor, and can't find a cable listed for it. I'm just guessing that it uses the same cable. Anyone know for sure?

I've been meaning to look at the connector to see if I can find one like it at digikey or mouser, because I'd like to use more flexible wire.

Cheers,
Rusty

[wonginator1221]

I was hoping to buy a ribbon cable from FMA to use for the ardupilot connect, and keep my original intact. I cannot find the ribbon cable on FMA's website, tho I recall it was sold separately in the past. I've emailed FMA, but wonder if anyone else has a link or source?

Ken
http://www.fmadirect.com/products.htm?cat=20&nid=6

First two items under Co Pilot Accessories.

[aperture]

Thanks for the links for the cables...I found them with your help.

Really odd. I had emailed FMA asking for the 24" cpd4 ribbon cable, and got a response today from Elena in sales that that length had been discontinued!

I will try to order one anyway, and maybe get a spare.....

ken

[Dimitris76]

Guys don't bother with FMA's cables.
Open your junkbox (or your friend's, neighbour's, girlfriend's junkbox..) and find one of those audio cables that PCs used to have between soundcard and Cd-Rom back in the 90s. They have the exact same white-rectangular-4 pole connector on them.

[aperture]

for the record, the 24" cables at FMA were in stock, and have been shipped. Don't understand why yesterday I was notified, by a different sales person, they were discontinued....

Ken

[radiohound]

Looks like there might be a need for some IR horizon sensors!http://paparazzi.enac.fr/wiki/Image:IR_double_small_size_top.png The Paparazzi small horizon sensor is .985 inch vs FMA's 1.35 inch sensor. And it is built for 3.3 volt. I have a bunch of boards coming in late next week, and enough parts to make 10 complete boards.

Bare PCB board is $3.49 and pre-built with IR sensors is $37.95
www.scalerobotics.com/store/catalog (http://www.scalerobotics.com/store/catalog)

http://paparazzi.enac.fr/wiki/Image:IR_double_small_PCB_top.jpg

[CrashingDutchman]

Are you back in business? I bought an UAV board from you long time ago.

Btw, the link 'sensors and kit' on your strore gives an error:
1054 - Unknown column 'p.products_id' in 'on clause'

[wallaguest1]

is that your web? quite good price for the IR head,

United States Postal Service (1 x 0.45lbs) (Global Express Guaranteed): $44.70

just that one can be selected to send to spain?

[brakar]

Also got them at http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm?item=1778&section=20, a bit more expensive then, at: 42,95

[reph]

> Controls elevator and ailerons/rudder.

Meaning ailerons *or* rudder? Or are you guys connecting unused pins on the ATMega168 to the "3+4 MUX IN" for 3+ channel control?

[zlite]

> Controls elevator and ailerons/rudder.

Meaning ailerons *or* rudder? Or are you guys connecting unused pins on the ATMega168 to the "3+4 MUX IN" for 3+ channel control?

Or rudder. Turns are not coordinated in ArduPilot 2.0.

If you want to modify the code to use channels 3&4 in/out, you've got to connect them to the unused digital pins on the board. We didn't want to lock those pins into those channels, since some people may want to use them for other purposes (the board is designed to be as flexible as possible).

[FAKHREALAM]

Looks like there might be a need for some IR horizon sensors!http://paparazzi.enac.fr/wiki/Image:IR_double_small_size_top.png The Paparazzi small horizon sensor is .985 inch vs FMA's 1.35 inch sensor. And it is built for 3.3 volt. I have a bunch of boards coming in late next week, and enough parts to make 10 complete boards.

Bare PCB board is $3.49 and pre-built with IR sensors is $37.95
www.scalerobotics.com/store/catalog (http://www.scalerobotics.com/store/catalog)

http://paparazzi.enac.fr/wiki/Image:IR_double_small_PCB_top.jpg

I am kind of looking for 4 PCB's Please PM me the cost and shipping to Reno (normal air mail), Nevada, USA, 89503. If its possible please email me the parts list/parts layout at fakhre@rocketmail.com, so I can buy it from digikey.

Fakhre Alam

[Buzz_Lightyear]

For those in Europe, you can buy them from my store here:
http://chebuzz.com/paparazzi/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=1

They cost me a little more, but shipping will be cheaper/faster. I don't know where he is getting everything to make them so cheap. Each IR sensor alone is ~$10.

Just got an ardupilot myself, and looking forward to playing with it.

[FAKHREALAM]

For those in Europe, you can buy them from my store here:
http://chebuzz.com/paparazzi/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=1

They cost me a little more, but shipping will be cheaper/faster. I don't know where he is getting everything to make them so cheap. Each IR sensor alone is ~$10.

Just got an ardupilot myself, and looking forward to playing with it.

How about in USA.

Fakhre Alam

[radiohound]

How about in USA.

Fakhre Alam

Here is a USA supplier:

http://ppzuav.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=53

[FAKHREALAM]

Here is a USA supplier:

http://ppzuav.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=53

Thanks.
Fakhre Alam

[Buzz_Lightyear]

How about in USA.

Fakhre Alam
UPDATE: I will no longer be able to ship IR boards to customers in the US.

[13brv3]

Greetings,

In V1, there was a line where you could change from RTL to WP mode. I don't see that in V2. Best I can tell, V2 is always in WP mode, but the first waypoint is the home position, so it would RTL anyway. The next standard waypoints appear to be a parallelogram sort of holding pattern.

Is this correct?

BTW, the V2 setup is mounted on a piece of cardboard, and I'll give it a test drive in a little while.

Thanks,
Rusty

[zlite]

Greetings,

In V1, there was a line where you could change from RTL to WP mode. I don't see that in V2. Best I can tell, V2 is always in WP mode, but the first waypoint is the home position, so it would RTL anyway. The next standard waypoints appear to be a parallelogram sort of holding pattern.

RTL/Waypoint mode is now selectable in the air with a three-position toggle, proportional dial or, if you're handy with Rx programming, two toggles mixed. The default settings in the code are:

Toggle down: manual mode
Toggle middle: waypoint mode
Toggle up: RTL mode

But if you want to select it manually in the code (you don't have a three-position toggle or your Tx can't mix), you can hardwire the state in the code. Look at this in the system tab:

byte Tx_Switch_Status(void) //Returns zero when we are in manual mode, returns 2 when autopilot mode 0, return 3 when autopilot mode 1...
{
if(digitalRead(4)==HIGH)
{
if(digitalRead(5)==HIGH)
return 0x02; // WP mode
else
return 0x03; // RTL mode
}
else
return 0x00;
}



To switch the top toggle position from RTL mode to Waypoint mode, you'd just change those return values in the code as follows:

byte Tx_Switch_Status(void) //Return zero when we are in manual mode, return 2 when autopilot mode 0, return 3 when autopilot mode 1...
{
if(digitalRead(4)==HIGH)
{
if(digitalRead(5)==HIGH)
return 0x03; // RTL mode
else
return 0x02; // WP mode
}
else
return 0x00;
}

[13brv3]

RTL/Waypoint mode is now selectable in the air with a three-position toggle or two toggles mixed.

Hi Chris,

I guess I didn't realize that the 3 position switch had been activated in V2. In fact, I just read this on the LED sequence post:

[Note: the "Mode" LED is only used for three-position toggle switches, so you can have an intermediate position between autopilot on and off. The feature is not currently used by ArduPilot, but may be in the future.]

If the 3 position mode is working, that's great, and I have no shortage of 3 position switches. The next question will be verifying which mode I'm in, to make sure the switch is properly configure. Will the mode led be on to confirm one mode or the other?

Thanks,
Rusty

[zlite]

Hi Chris,

I guess I didn't realize that the 3 position switch had been activated in V2. In fact, I just read this on the LED sequence post:

[Note: the "Mode" LED is only used for three-position toggle switches, so you can have an intermediate position between autopilot on and off. The feature is not currently used by ArduPilot, but may be in the future.]


Ah. Thanks for the catch. I'll update the post (http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/correct-ardupilot-led-behavior) .

The Mode LED comes on when you are in Waypoint Mode (middle position of the autopilot toggle channel.)

[13brv3]

Ah. Thanks for the catch. I'll update the post.

The Mode LED comes on when you are in RTL mode.

Excellent info! I upgraded the installed system to V2, and noticed that the mode led blinks when going from on to off on a two position switch. Once I add the center position, I expect it will stay on in that position. I'll take it for a walk tomorrow, and if all seems well, will flight test it next weekend.

Thanks again for a great way to spend my time : :D
Rusty

[zlite]

Excellent info! I upgraded the installed system to V2, and noticed that the mode led blinks when going from on to off on a two position switch. Once I add the center position, I expect it will stay on in that position. I'll take it for a walk tomorrow, and if all seems well, will flight test it next weekend.

Thanks again for a great way to spend my time : :D
Rusty

I corrected the response above: the middle position (when the LED comes on) is Waypoint mode in the default code.

For those who don't have a three-position toggle, you can use a proportional dial as well. When you turn it half-way, you're in Waypoint mode. All the way is RTL.

[13brv3]

I corrected the response above: the middle position (when the LED comes on) is Waypoint mode in the default code.

For those who don't have a three-position toggle, you can use a proportional dial as well. When you turn it half-way, you're in Waypoint mode. All the way is RTL.

Hi Chris,

That's even better. I'll just keep my current two position switch then, since I only want RTL for now.

Rusty

[bmw330i]

Here is a USA supplier:

http://ppzuav.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=53

I am not sure I have those (bare PCB) in stock. I have the boards assembled without the IC and without the Thermopiles here:
http://ppzuav.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=92

Just add the IC and Thermopiles ... I had a mixup with the assembler where they ordered the wrong part so I ended up with 100 of these. 5.95 each. Barely more than the cost of the bare PCB.

I am in California and can ship them immediately.

NOTE: This is not the "small" version but the orig. design. Still smaller than the FMA one. Here's a photo of the differences in sizes between the Paparazzi designed ones. Note the size differences. I have the orig. which is not all that bigger. Just less that IC and Thermopiles for 5.95.

-BMW

[bmw330i]

You guys are doing a great job. I bought two of these ArduPilots and am just waiting for some sort of GCS to become ready to use. Adding the IR stabilization was a great leap forward. Also you are raising the bar as far as giving detail instructions showing the connections and pinouts with howto information for newbies. All well done.
Your pace of progress is amazing. Excellent work.
-BMW

[zlite]

You guys are doing a great job. I bought two of these ArduPilots and am just waiting for some sort of GCS to become ready to use. Adding the IR stabilization was a great leap forward. Also you are raising the bar as far as giving detail instructions showing the connections and pinouts with howto information for newbies. All well done.
Your pace of progress is amazing. Excellent work.
-BMW

Thanks! A simple GCS is now in private beta. We don't have point-and-click map-based waypoint entry working yet, but everything else is in place. No need for the Arduino IDE or any fiddling with code at all!

Hope to release it in the next few weeks.

[Dimitris76]

Chris,

how does ArduPilot act in v2.0 if a thermopyle sensor is not connected? The reason I am asking is that I like 2nd version's enhancements but I prefer to use the stock Co-pilot for attitude stabilization...
Also, in manual control mode (not RTL or WP) does ArduPilot (with thermopyle sensor connected) still stabilize, or not?

Dimitris

[zlite]

Chris,

how does ArduPilot act in v2.0 if a thermopyle sensor is not connected? The reason I am asking is that I like 2nd version's enhancements but I prefer to use the stock Co-pilot for attitude stabilization...
Also, in manual control mode (not RTL or WP) does ArduPilot (with thermopyle sensor connected) still stabilize, or not?

Dimitris

I would not recommend using 2.0 without sensors. All of our PID loops are designed to combine stabilization and navigation data; I'm not sure what would happen without the first.

If you disconnect the GPS, switching on the autopilot puts it in what we call "fly-by-wire" mode, which is similar to FMA Co-Pilot stabilization. ArduPilot basically flies the plane, and you just steer it manually. Like a F-16 ;-)

[jmralves]

Folks,

What are the symptoms of a bad thermopyle in a fma sensor?
How can I know if a thermopyle is "dead" or can be recovered?

Sorry for the OT, trying to recover a sensor for a Ap2.0,
TIA

[zlite]

What are the symptoms of a bad thermopyle in a fma sensor?
How can I know if a thermopyle is "dead" or can be recovered?

You can use the test code at the bottom of this post (http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/getting-ready-for-ardupilot-20) to measure your thermopile response. Just hold your hand against each side so the heat from your hand simulates the sensor "looking up". You should get similar readings from all four sides.

[boyisabird]

Hi-
I'm really interested in this project. I was originally thinking of just getting the new FMA Co-pilot II, but with the possibilities of adding some logic and potentially storage the ArduPilot sounds really fun... especially the DIY aspect.

So my question is, will ArduPilot work with the new FMA Co-pilot as sensors, or should I just pick up the old CPD4 + Z?
Thanks
Dave

[zlite]

Hi-
I'm really interested in this project. I was originally thinking of just getting the new FMA Co-pilot II, but with the possibilities of adding some logic and potentially storage the ArduPilot sounds really fun... especially the DIY aspect.

So my question is, will ArduPilot work with the new FMA Co-pilot as sensors, or should I just pick up the old CPD4 + Z?
Thanks
Dave

It won't work with the new Co-Pilot sensors (they're digital, not analog). No need for the whole CPD4--just buy the XY and Z sensors.

[Kisssys]

I've got a box full of GPS's but no EM-406. I've got 2 Loco, 1 ublox, 2 EB-85's. I've got everything to try out Ardupilot 2 including a Z sensor except the GPS, I hate to buy another GPS. How is the code coming for the other GPS's. Is there that much saved if you operated the baud at 115200 and decode NMEA.

Anyway this platform is just what I have been looking for. I write code but don't enjoy it. I'd much rather just modify for my small differences.

Keep this going strong, I'm excited about the possibilities.

Kisssys

[pardus]

Excuse my ignorance, I know what an XY sensor is but what is a z-sensor and what is it's purpose in ArduPilot?

[zlite]

I've got a box full of GPS's but no EM-406. I've got 2 Loco, 1 ublox, 2 EB-85's.

We hope to switch back to a NMEA parser in 2.1. Maybe another few weeks. There are a few other priorities ahead of this, since most people have the recommended 406

[zlite]

Excuse my ignorance, I know what an XY sensor is but what is a z-sensor and what is it's purpose in ArduPilot?

The Z sensor looks up and down and is used to automatically calibrate the XY sensors. If you use it, you don't need to go through the in-field calibration process.

[Dimitris76]

If you disconnect the GPS, switching on the autopilot puts it in what we call "fly-by-wire" mode, which is similar to FMA Co-Pilot stabilization. ArduPilot basically flies the plane, and you just steer it manually. Like a F-16 ;-)

I mean, what would happen when we turn off the MUX via the control channel in order to fly manually? Do we still have attitude stabilization like with stock Co-pilot? I am guessing no, since the ATmega168 is bypassed and the inputs ae connected straight to the outputs, right?

Could we please have a flight mode with BOTH manual control AND stabilization? Pleaseeeee.... :D

Dimitris

[zlite]

I mean, what would happen when we turn off the MUX via the control channel in order to fly manually? Do we still have attitude stabilization like with stock Co-pilot? I am guessing no, since the ATmega168 is bypassed and the inputs ae connected straight to the outputs, right?

Could we please have a flight mode with BOTH manual control AND stabilization? Pleaseeeee.... :D

Dimitris

We'll take the suggestion under advisement but just to repeat the obvious: this is open source software. If you want the feature you can have the feature: just code it in yourself. The stabilization mode is right there in the software, so you just need to assign the modes so that it's invoked when you want it.

Right now it's like this:

With GPS connected:
Toggle down: manual
Toggle middle: waypoint
Toggle up: RTL

With GPS not connected:
Toggle down: manual
Toggle middle: not used
Toggle up: stablization

Changing those assignments is a pretty easy matter in the code.

[chicken hawk]

Is anyone else getting the message "error: call of overloaded 'print(float&)' is ambiguous" when trying to upload the 2.0 code to the board? I had no problems with 1.0. I tried to look on DIY for help but the site is down.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Ryan

[gwh]

Ryan,

Check your version of the Arduino IDE. You need to be on at least version 13, 14 is the current version. I get that error when I use version 12.

[chicken hawk]

Ryan,

Check your version of the Arduino IDE. You need to be on at least version 13, 14 is the current version. I get that error when I use version 12.

Ahh, That must be it. I'm using 12 right now. I guess I better update.
Thanks a ton GWH. More questions coming soon.

[zlite]

Ahh, That must be it. I'm using 12 right now. I guess I better update.
Thanks a ton GWH. More questions coming soon.

Stick with 13. We're getting some funky serial behavior in 14, and until we figure out what's causing it, you're safer with 13.

[13brv3]

Greetings,

I've spent a bunch of time with two different V2 setups now, and I'm not confident that the IR sensors are getting calibrated properly. I'm using the recommended equipment, and following the calibration procedure, but the elevator servo concerns me.

After cal, when the sensor is level and I engage the AP, the elevator is almost never neutral. Sometimes it's just a little off, and sometimes it's off almost full deflection. Almost always, it's off in the down direction, and I fear that my first autopilot controlled maneuver is going to be an outside loop :eek:

I'm starting to wonder if this seemingly erratic behavior isn't isn't normal under these conditions (stationary, on the ground, GPS probably still refining it's position). It almost must be, since I have two complete setups mounted on cardboard that are doing the same thing, but I'd sure feel better if someone could confirm this.

Thanks,
Rusty

[chicken hawk]

Stick with 13. We're getting some funky serial behavior in 14, and until we figure out what's causing it, you're safer with 13.

Ah Nuts! It took me an hour to download and unzip 14 last night but thanks for the work your doing on this and also for letting me know about the serial problems. I'll try to get 13 tonight.

[chicken hawk]

Hey, New question. I searched around and cant find anything (usually means it's right under my nose). My sensor seems to be backwards, when the elevator should go up, it goes down. Where do I fix that in the code?
Thanks
Ryan

[13brv3]

Hey, New question. I searched around and cant find anything (usually means it's right under my nose). My sensor seems to be backwards, when the elevator should go up, it goes down. Where do I fix that in the code?
Thanks
Ryan


Hi Ryan,

If I'm not mistaken, on the servo tab, look for the code shown below. Change "90+pitch" to "90-pitch", and I believe it will reverse your direction of throw from the AP.

Rusty (anything I say about code is dangerous)



/************************************************** ***********************
You must change this if you have another kind of aircraft...
************************************************** ***********************/
void pulse_servos(int roll, int pitch) //Normal mode
{
pulse_servo_1(90+roll);
pulse_servo_2(90+pitch); //invert sign if you want to reverse the servo...
}

[chicken hawk]

Thanks Rusty I'll give it a try.
Ryan

[chicken hawk]

Yup! That did it! The bench test looks good now. I'll test fly it again tomorrow. Thanks again Rusty

[chancesAU]

Hi all,
Didnt really want to post any problems here yet as its most likely something silly ive done (and I dont want to sound dumb hehe) but hopefully someone will reply by the time I get home today :)

Ok so ardu arrived and I hastefully soldered up the breakaway pins to it.
Connected the sparkfun FTDI to upload the code (v13 of audrino) & it was failing (only power light showing), anyway went through the debugging page at diy - nothing worked.

I left it connected for 5 min & when I looked down at the ardu heaps of lights were going crazy?? anyway tried to upload the code and I noticed the tx/rx lights on the FTDI were going off - cool!
It uploaded fine apparently so I made up some cables to hook up the RX to the ardu and took it outside to get the sat lock....

Ok here is where I found some problems, first the 3 way toggle on ch5 does nothing to any lights on the ardu, checked the servo against the switch on my transmitter (9CAP) and it seems to be working fine.
Also no matter which way the toggle switch is on my transmitter I dont seem to have normal control of my elevator or ailerons/rudder, the lights on the ardu seem to turn on and off as I move the stick... hmm maybe ardu thinks my elevator is the toggle switch?... The elevator surface sorta does its own thing, If I move the elevator all the way up on my TX it does nothing then suddenly goes to full throw, when I move the elevator stick down the control surface stays still and the MUX light seem to turn off when its about 75% down.

Does any of this sound weird to anyone?
Im going to re-flash the ardu when I get home incase something went weird & check everything but im pretty sure I followed the instructions perfectly and im using all the recommended hardware.

Thanks,
Max

[zlite]

Hi all,
Ok here is where I found some problems, first the 3 way toggle on ch5 does nothing to any lights on the ardu, checked the servo against the switch on my transmitter (9CAP) and it seems to be working fine.
Also no matter which way the toggle switch is on my transmitter I dont seem to have normal control of my elevator or ailerons/rudder, the lights on the ardu seem to turn on and off as I move the stick... hmm maybe ardu thinks my elevator is the toggle switch?... The elevator surface sorta does its own thing, If I move the elevator all the way up on my TX it does nothing then suddenly goes to full throw, when I move the elevator stick down the control surface stays still and the MUX light seem to turn off when its about 75% down.


Two questions: are you powering the board independently when you've got the FTDI cable connected? (You can't power the board with that cable).

And are you absolutely sure you've got your gear connected EXACTLY like the diagram below?

[pardus]

Which switch have you assigned to CH5? Normally on the 9CAP CH5 is assigned to switch G, the only 3 way switches on the 9CAP or 9CHP are switch C and switch E. If you haven't changed it you may have to re-assign the switch.

[chancesAU]

Which switch have you assigned to CH5? Normally on the 9CAP CH5 is assigned to switch G, the only 3 way switches on the 9CAP or 9CHP are switch C and switch E. If you haven't changed it you may have to re-assign the switch.

Hi,
Well I was using ch5&6 for pan/tilt so I assigned ch8 to switch E (and connected to ctrl on ardu).
When this didnt work I removed the pan and tilt and just had the basics connected, ch1 rudder, ch2 elevator, ch3 ESC & ch5 ctrl.
when I looked at the transmitters servo menu channel 5&8 now move with the 3 way switch so I dont think thats the problem.
Im just about to pack it all in the car and play with it some more...

The wiring diagram above is the exact same one I used to connect everything but im just going to start again from scratch and see how I go.

Ill let you know how I go in a few hours :)

Thanks for all the responses!

Max

[chicken hawk]

Sorry but I have another question. I flew a Slow Stick today with the 2.0 code. It was all over the place. It almost looked like it was swimming in the sky. I think the sensitivity for the FMA sensor was too high. Is there a way to adjust it in flight? Does anyone know were to adjust it in the code?
Ryan

[chicken hawk]

I found it. I played around with it for a few flights. Still not very consitant but I'll keep playing with it.

[zlite]

Sorry but I have another question. I flew a Slow Stick today with the 2.0 code. It was all over the place. It almost looked like it was swimming in the sky. I think the sensitivity for the FMA sensor was too high. Is there a way to adjust it in flight? Does anyone know were to adjust it in the code?
Ryan

That code is optimized for the EasyStar--you will definitely have to tweak the settings for your plane. They're in the first tab, and look like this:

#define roll_abs .2 //Set point absolute proportional... I don't know how to explain it...
#define roll_P .8 //roll PID proportional
#define roll_I 1.5 //roll PID integrator
#define roll_min -55 //PID output limit in servo degrees
#define roll_max 55 //PID output limit in servo degrees

#define pitch_P .6
#define pitch_I .5
#define pitch_min -70
#define pitch_max 70

Tweak these for your plane.

[skygizmo]

Hello i am new in UAV world and looking to get a ardupilot to try. but I have a small question Is ardupilot able to make a waypoint task (eg to take a photo or releasing Payload) when it comes to a selected waypiont?
is anyone have any examples of what i mean?
I am fairly new to c + + so I would like some help.

thanks in advance

[brakar]

Received the ArduPilot today. Now just waiting for the sensors and FMA-stuff to arrive.

Meanwhile, I have a few questions:
- will the hardware-setup be the same for software release 2.1 as for 1.0 and 2.0? (additional Z-sensor)
- will it pay off to wait for the 2.1 software to arrive before setting up the board
- is there modified and tested code for a 4 servo trainer available anywhere? (like SIG Kadet LT40, AviaStar, HobbiStar etc.)


brakar

[zlite]

Received the ArduPilot today. Now just waiting for the sensors and FMA-stuff to arrive.

Meanwhile, I have a few questions:
- will the hardware-setup be the same for software release 2.1 as for 1.0 and 2.0? (additional Z-sensor)
- will it pay off to wait for the 2.1 software to arrive before setting up the board
- is there modified and tested code for a 4 servo trainer available anywhere? (like SIG Kadet LT40, AviaStar, HobbiStar etc.)

--The hardware is the same. You just solder on three more connectors for the Z sensor.
--Not really. The only difference between the 2.0 and 2.1 code is the in-field calibration process.
--Right now the code is optimized for the EasyStar, but you can use it on other airframes by tweaking the roll and pitch gains appropriately. This is true for all autopilots--each has to be tweaked to suit the aircraft it's flying one. ArduPilot 2.0 does not use the rudder in a 4-channel plane.

[chancesAU]

Hi,
I sorted out my problems by checking the solder connections I made to the ardu, there was a couple which werent very neat, once I fixed that she started working great.

But as we tested it through the night I noticed a weird glitching in manual mode where both the MUX & MODE LED's would flicker when it glitched.

It seemed to get worse into the night (wasnt doing it at first but now it does it all the time) but I thought id change my female to female leads between the ardu & RX but its made no differance :(

Can anyone offer any suggestions?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAwiy_y2Hfo


Thanks,
Max

[zlite]

Hi,
I sorted out my problems by checking the solder connections I made to the ardu, there was a couple which werent very neat, once I fixed that she started working great.

But as we tested it through the night I noticed a weird glitching in manual mode where both the MUX & MODE LED's would flicker when it glitched.

It seemed to get worse into the night (wasnt doing it at first but now it does it all the time) but I thought id change my female to female leads between the ardu & RX but its made no differance :(


That's funky--we've never seen that. Do you have your CTRL channel on a toggle or a dial? It looks like it's seeing some noisy PWM on that channel and momentarily switching into the middle-position setting. What radio are you using?

[chancesAU]

That's funky--we've never seen that. Do you have your CTRL channel on a toggle or a dial? It looks like it's seeing some noisy PWM on that channel and momentarily switching into the middle-position setting. What radio are you using?

Hi,
Yea this is weird, ive transplanted the ardu into my easystar and it seems fine... so its got to be my servos or RX... ?
Either way its working fine in my easystar.

Back to the drawing board :)

Im using a Futaba 9C with a 3way switch on the CTRL.

[chancesAU]

Ok very cool it all seems to be working fine, rudder wont respond much at all in RTL or WP mode but the elevator looks good :)

So anyway I have a crazy huge rudder on my EZ* , should I half the roll rate in the code?

Is this what you edit/does this look ok for what im trying to do.

By the way thanks for all your super quick replys! :)

void pulse_servos(int roll, int pitch) //Normal mode
{
pulse_servo_1(45+roll);
pulse_servo_2(90+pitch); //invert sign if you want to reverse the servo...
}

[Dan_Jones]

I just got my board from Sparkfun today and noticed the mux was off a pin. Is this intended? If not, it isn't a big deal, I can fix it easily. Just thought that others might have the same observation. I'm looking forward to getting it in the air!

Dan

[zlite]

Ok very cool it all seems to be working fine, rudder wont respond much at all in RTL or WP mode but the elevator looks good :)

So anyway I have a crazy huge rudder on my EZ* , should I half the roll rate in the code?

Is this what you edit/does this look ok for what im trying to do.

By the way thanks for all your super quick replys! :)

void pulse_servos(int roll, int pitch) //Normal mode
{
pulse_servo_1(45+roll);
pulse_servo_2(90+pitch); //invert sign if you want to reverse the servo...
}

It's designed for either a stock rudder or a relatively small increased rudder. If you want to tweak the gains, they're in the first tab:

#define roll_abs .2 //Set point absolute proportional...
#define roll_P .8 //roll PID proportional
#define roll_I 1.5 //roll PID integrator
#define roll_min -55 //PID output limit in servo degrees
#define roll_max 55 //PID output limit in servo degrees

I'd fiddle with the first two for starters if it looks like you're overcontrolling with your big rudder.

[zlite]

I just got my board from Sparkfun today and noticed the mux was off a pin. Is this intended? If not, it isn't a big deal, I can fix it easily. Just thought that others might have the same observation. I'm looking forward to getting it in the air!

Dan

Yikes! That's a pick-and-place error. You'll definitely want to unsolder and reseat that. I'll notify Sparkfun so they can watch for that...

[chancesAU]

It's designed for either a stock rudder or a relatively small increased rudder. If you want to tweak the gains, they're in the first tab:

#define roll_abs .2 //Set point absolute proportional...
#define roll_P .8 //roll PID proportional
#define roll_I 1.5 //roll PID integrator
#define roll_min -55 //PID output limit in servo degrees
#define roll_max 55 //PID output limit in servo degrees

I'd fiddle with the first two for starters if it looks like you're overcontrolling with your big rudder.

Let me just check that these are the 2 that your talking about? should I decrease them?

#define roll_abs .2 //Set point absolute proportional...
#define roll_P .8 //roll PID proportional

[zlite]

Let me just check that these are the 2 that your talking about? should I decrease them?

#define roll_abs .2 //Set point absolute proportional...
#define roll_P .8 //roll PID proportional

I wouldn't touch a thing until you fly it. Maybe it's fine just as it is. If not, I'd start by decreasing the roll_P and see what happens.

But I'm not the programmer, Jordi is, and all the real support for this board is over at DIY Drones, not here. If you have additional questions you should ask him there.

[chancesAU]

Thanks zlite much appreciated!

[aperture]

Cannot find the Z sensor sold by FMA direct. When I go to their website, and look thru all the menus, do a search, whatever....cannot find the hidden Z. Does anyone have a link to that item on their website, so I can make a purchase?
thank you,
Ken

[zlite]

Cannot find the Z sensor sold by FMA direct. When I go to their website, and look thru all the menus, do a search, whatever....cannot find the hidden Z. Does anyone have a link to that item on their website, so I can make a purchase?
thank you,
Ken

It's here (http://fmadirect.com/detail.htm?item=1888&section=29).

[aperture]

I found it by doing a "FMA Z sensor" search on google. Was just going to provide the link. Thanks zlite!

http://fmadirect.com/detail.htm?item=1888&section=29

[brakar]

Zlite

Could you give an update on the progress on ardupilote 2.1? time- and airframes.

brakar

[zlite]

ArduPilot 2.1 will be released in the week of April 20th.

It will support the Z sensor. It will also support a configuration utility that Jordi has developed that will allow you to enter waypoints and otherwise configure the autpilot without having to use the Arduino IDE. It will also support throttle control and additional sensors.

Additional airframes will be supported with lists of recommended settings and configurations, rather than separate code.

ArduPilot 2.5 will be released in a few months and will support a lot of very cool stuff beyond that, including other GPS modules and new navigation modes.

We've got a lot of other stuff in the works, including custom sensors and prebuilt UAVs!

[Wmacky]

"Additional airframes will be supported with lists of recommended settings and configurations, rather than separate code."

I think this was a very sound decision. Perhaps with input from users with other airframes, a vast list of recommended setting can be generated. The only issue I see is that remember Jordi writing that the actual code is different for some airframe types. I guess a solution was found for 2.1?

[13brv3]

ArduPilot 2.1 will be released in the week of April 20th.

ArduPilot 2.5 will be released in a few months

We've got a lot of other stuff in the works, including custom sensors and prebuilt UAVs!

Wow, at this rate, I'll never get to fly one :p I seem to spend a weekend updating, then a couple weekends with bad weather (such as this weekend), then by the time good weather rolls around, it's time for another update :cool:

The prebuilt UAV sounds interesting. I just finished assembling a CNC foam cutter, to go along with my CNC router. One of the goals was to make my own UAV aircraft design, in addition to some other wacky ideas I have.

Cheers,
Rusty

[brakar]

I did receive my ardupilot a few days ago and have managed to follow the instruction until the point where I should have obtained a blue light on the ardupilot, due to a gps lock. But, there is no blue light. What might have gone wrong?

I have uploaded the ardupilot 2.0 code, using arduino 0015, and latest using 0013 (after reading about the trouble with 0014). Both versions seemed to load the code fine. The two red diodes at the ardupilot lights steady and the red diode at the gps started to blink as described, but then - no blue light. The board is set up with only the gps connected, besides power from a 4.8V rx battery, connected to ctrl (black/minus against the edge of the card). Could it possibly be that my gps-position in Norway is out of the limits for gps-possition expected?

Board setup is similar to this:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=2428434&stc=1

brakar

[zlite]

I did receive my ardupilot a few days ago and have managed to follow the instruction until the point where I should have obtained a blue light on the ardupilot, due to a gps lock. But, there is no blue light. What might have gone wrong?

I have uploaded the ardupilot 2.0 code, using arduino 0015, and latest using 0013 (after reading about the trouble with 0014). Both versions seemed to load the code fine. The two red diodes at the ardupilot lights steady and the red diode at the gps started to blink as described, but then - no blue light. The board is set up with only the gps connected, besides power from a 4.8V rx battery, connected to ctrl (black/minus against the edge of the card). Could it possibly be that my gps-position in Norway is out of the limits for gps-possition expected?

I'm confused. The picture you attached shows the blue LED on.

If you're using the ArduPilot 2.0 code, the red LED on the GPS should not be on, since it programs the EM406 to go into binary mode, which disables the LED. Please see this chart (http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/correct-ardupilot-led-behavior) of correct LED behavior.

Please repeat the test with everything connected: Rx in and servos out, so you can test everything (MUX, etc). Remember that you cannot upload code to Ardupilot when the GPS is connected, so remove it temporarily while you're using Arduino to flash the code.

[13brv3]

I did receive my ardupilot a few days ago and have managed to follow the instruction until the point where I should have obtained a blue light on the ardupilot, due to a gps lock. But, there is no blue light. What might have gone wrong?

I have uploaded the ardupilot 2.0 code

Board setup is similar to this:

Hi Brakar,

The picture you show appears to be an Ardupilot 1.0 setup, since there are no pins for the IR sensors, or calibration jumper. With 1.0, the GPS was left in NMEA mode, so no problem with lock.

In 2.0, there's a calibration jumper that has to be installed when you power on. Besides starting the calibration for the IR sensors, it also puts the GPS in binary mode, which is what the 2.0 code is waiting for from the GPS. If you never use the jumper, I wouldn't expect that you'll ever get a GPS lock.

If you're board is in fact just like that one, then try loading the 1.0 code, and see if you get a lock. I'd bet you will.

Good luck,
Rusty (out-typed by Chris)

[brakar]

Thanks zlite and 13brv3,

The picture is from diydrones. I was eager to test if the setup was correct so far and wanted to test the gps lock. The picture was only used as an example, since my setup at present time is similar to this one. I did not realize that the gps in 2.0 was put in binary mode.

I will do the rest of the soldering etc. before further testing.

brakar

[Psionic001]

Hi,

I'm looking at getting an Ardupilot set-up with the FMA CoPilot CPD4 xy stabilizer but noticed it only works with single aileron servo set-ups.

FMA has the New CoPilotII coming out which works with dual aileron servos. Does Ardu work with the CoPilotII box and Z axis sensor?
http://www.fmadirect.com/new_applications/copilot2.html

If not, how do I get around the 2 servo issue?

Thanx

Matt

[jmralves]

If not, how do I get around the 2 servo issue?

With a Y cable, join the club :)

[pardus]

I have the same requirement, my plane has adverse yaw so requires more up aileron than down, no so easy to do with a y-lead. I also lose my flaperon ability...

[jmralves]

You can't have it all ;)