Corsair .60 Build

[crumbta]

Hey guys!

I'm new to the forum, and somewhat new to RC flying in general. I flew many electric models when i was in my teens, and have gotten back into it.

I am currently putting together a Hangar 9 Corsair .60 size. Any suggestions?

Thanks Guys!

[crumbta]

btw...i ill be making this a nitro model. I am looking into a Saito 115 4 stroke, i am also looking for a scale propeller but have been unsuccessfull so far.

Does anyone know where to get a scal 3 blade prop for this size?

Thanks again,

Ty

[kahloq]

There are several threads both here and on rcuniverse about the hangar 9 corsair. That doesnt mean dont continue with your thread, please do. but there is a wealth of information in those threads about motor size, prop size, retracts, etc.

Now...considering your saito 115, a good 3 blade prop would be a 14x7x3 master airscrew. If you want a little more speed and still use a 3 blade prop, consider a 13x8x3(but is going to look slightly small) or a 14x9x3. This 14x9x3 may load the motor a little much, not sure. It'll spin it, but you may only see low 8000's. You want the motor to be running at least high 8000's or low to mid 9000's
You can get those almost anywhere, but online...both towerhobbies and horizonhobby carries them.

I had this plane with a saito 100 in it and spun a 14x7x3. Flew well. Id have liked a slight bit more speed, but thats me. Now....most of the guys I fly with put saito 125's in .60 size planes and use maybe a 14x10 2 blade, 16x8 2 blade or 3 blade props...a 14x9x3 or a 15x7x3
I put the saito 125 in the Kyosho 90 size Spitfire. Perfect motor in my opinion. The plane weighs the basic same as a hangar 9 60 size.

Anyhow....keep us updated. Its always nice to see someone new come along and enjoy a plane many of us have had(or still have).

[crumbta]

Thanks for the warm welcome!!!

I had wanted to go with a larger engine, like the 125 but didn't know if it was alright to do so. Since you guys are doing it, i might as well try!

I have found a couple 3 blade props from searching around here, like the APC 15.75x13 3 blade. These seem to come unpainted from tower hobbies, at least that's how the picture looks. Is it alright to paint these?

Thanks,

Ty

[chalmrast]

I painted mine (APC 15.75 x 13, 3 blade) with no issues. Running it on a CMP .50 Corsair (58") e-conversion. I hit it with flat black, then yellow on the tips & silver around the middle to make a mock-hub. I then had Tru-Turn tap one of their prop hubs to match the threads on my prop adapter. Also made some Hamilton Std water-slide decals.....

If you have access to someone who can make some dry-transfers you could do the lettering on the prop too....

[kahloq]

Thanks for the warm welcome!!!

I had wanted to go with a larger engine, like the 125 but didn't know if it was alright to do so. Since you guys are doing it, i might as well try!

I have found a couple 3 blade props from searching around here, like the APC 15.75x13 3 blade. These seem to come unpainted from tower hobbies, at least that's how the picture looks. Is it alright to paint these?

Thanks,

Ty

Im going to tell you right now that your motor, whether its a saito 115 or a saito 125 will NOT be able to spin that 15.75x13x3 prop worth a darn.
The pitch is WAY too high for the motor to handle it.
At best, you might get 5500 rpms and would be a real dog in the air. That APC prop is designed for serious horsepower or for an electric motor capable of turning it.

Pitch loads a motor down considerably more so then diameter does. With glow 4 strokes, you generally wont be able to turn props with more then a 10 pitch with any decent amount of rpm's unless you severely overpower the plane.
Now....a saito 220 could spin that 15.75x13x3, but not a saito 115 or 125. But...there is no way a saito 220 will fit on a 60 size plane.

For either motor, for a 3 blade prop, your best bet is the 14x9x3 MAS prop, but the 125 will handle it better.

As a note, I tried running a 16x14 2 blade prop on my 1.50 size P-51 equipped with a saito 220 and it didnt fly very well. The rpms still were low....like in the low-mid 7000's. Calc said this prop at that rpm would fly ok, but the motor was never able to unload in the air(this means gain slightly more rpm's then static test readings). Static calc said the plane should fly at 75MPH, but it never even got close to that because the motor just could never reach optimum power output.

I also ran an 18x12 on the saito 220. It was better actually for overall speed, but not as good as a 17x10. Difference was the peak rpm's the motor was able to obtain using the 17x10 vs the 18x12. So, on the 220, i now run a 17x10 and it reaches decent rpms of 8800.

For 4 stroke motors, they need to hit an optimum rpm range of over 8500 to run well and produce the power they were designed for. Anything under 8300 is loading the motor down too much(this is assuming a well broken in motor having had 2 gallons or more of fuel run through it).

[kahloq]

BTW I do have that 15.75x13x3 prop on one of my planes. Its a .40 size electric converted kyosho corsair.
I also painted the prop.

[Skaweee]

An RCV 90SP would handle that prop, and fit inside the cowl.

[kahloq]

Yes it would...but still will only spin the prop at 5300-5500 or so rpms max.
Flight speed via static calc would be a rather pathetic 65MPH not including any drag or actual load on the motor(which would make it closer to 53MPH actually flying) Not very good in my opinion.
I had an rcv60-sp and although it ran good when you could get it started(I ran a 15x13 two blade on it)...once it got broken in, it was NOT possible to get it started using an electric starter on the prop hub even with using a 24 volt battery on the starter.
The rcv-sp series has a hex adapter thing on the top of the motor to accomodate a long straight type shaft to spool up the motor that way, but that requires a special adapter plus yet another hole in the cowl.
because of that...I sold my rcv60-sp and probably wont buy another one of the sp line. Its more hassle then its worth at least in my opinion. My rcv60-sp was also quite tempermental. Didnt like to run the same way two tanks in a row even after 2 gallons of fuel.

[crumbta]

So a common break in for these engines is 2 gallons of fuel? I had to go through 5 or 6 tanks of fuel when i broke in my 3.3 Jato. I know it's different because it'd two stroke though.

What do you folks generally do for a break in?

I want to order the engine today, is a Saito 125 the biggest i could fit into the fuselage? Could i go with a 150?

[kahloq]

The 150 is too big and more weight. The 125 is your best bet. You can start flying a plane with a new motor after about 40-50 minutes of run time on the engine usually, but it will not be broken in until 2 gallons or more. Once its broken in, then that is when you can start swinging larger props. Go by the manual when breaking it in and suggested prop size.....a 14x8 will be a good break in prop for the 125.

I break in motors on a self built engine stand made of old railroad ties. I usually run a gallon of fuel thru a motor before mounting it on a plane, but thats me.

[crumbta]

Good points! THank you for all the advice!

With the engine, does it have to have a prop to break it in? Like you said, you have a static break in station....now that i think of it, kinda a dumb question, w/o a prop you'd have no load :p

I have been reading up on some firewall issues? you guys think it's a good idea to glass at least the joints on the inside of the fuse?

I didn't order the engine today, instead i ordered all the electronics, i went with a Spektrum DX7 tx, i've heard and read good things about them

[kahloq]

It will never hurt to glass the inside of the fuse where the firewall meets up. At the very least a good amount of epoxy should be slathered around where the firewall touches the actual fuse(from the inside)., but glassing would be stronger.

The DX7 is a good radio. I have the Jr 9303 2.4ghz system as well as a Jr 7202 7 channel radio on 72mhz. The 7202 has the exact same programming as the Dx7. Its pretty easy to use. The only reason I opted to buy a 9-channel radio(after already having the jr 7 channel) was for more options with channels and such for use with larger planes(like a 95" B-25 im building now). The extra 2 channels allow for various stuff like bomb drops, gyros, etc while still having plenty of channels for normal usage.

[patrick181]

Use a JR 791 retract servo, anything with less power and you risk a belly landing.

Use thicker rods and metal clevaces for the mechanical retracts to stop the slop and prevent hangups. The zbends tend to break the tabs on the retract actuator. Lube and locktite the bellcranks. Or get the Lado rotating retracts if you have the cash, I have seen them in person and they are very nice.

You can use screws to mount the wheel wells so you can remove them for maintenance on the linkage. Set a small balsa block with a blind nut in the center of the wheel pan area in the wing to screw it down.

Use the Saito 90 degree exhaust elbow to hide the muffler and have it just poke out of the bottom of the cowl. Looks very clean.

Dont trust the factory tank, I had 2 that split on me at the stopper, Last one cost me my Corsair. RIP

Saito 100 is PLENTY powerful for this bird. And I like them fast...

Glass the inside of the firewall like Kahlog said. Mine started to get stress cracks there after a very minor prop strike. Glassing is simply swabbing some 30 minute epoxy on the corners of the inside of the firewall where it meets the fuse and putting fiberglass fabric on the glue.

[kahloq]

Ok some things I will say that are not 100% in agreement with patrick181....
First....the saito 100 is OK for this plane, but for good speed, a saito 100 is only passible. A saito 125 will allow you to spin a LARGER prop(more scale) or a higher pitch prop for higher top end speed.

I also do NOT agree with using a saito 90 degree right angle adapter. I have used A LOT of these on several different planes. They work ok to start off, but even with locktite, they unscrew themselves very easily and usually within 4 flights...and yes thats with tightening them down super strong like. I have even tried RED locktite(which is the permanent kind) and it didnt hold.
Now....locktite MAY hold it seated on the exhaust port of the cylinder head IF you apply the locktite, seat the right angle adapter and muffler pipe/muffler and let it sit for 2 months or longer. Ive let the locktite sit for 2 weeks and it still came undone in less then 4 flights.
If you use a right angle adapter, you SHOULD fashion something to hold onto the muffler in case the adapter does loosen up and let go.

Now...a better alternative to using the 90 degree right angle adapter is to mount the saito 125 at a 45 degree angle(inverted) off to the left(when looking at the motor straight ahead from the froint of the plane). This puts the exhaust port dead center at the bottom of the plane and you can simply use the stock exhaust tube and muffler while having the muffler tip pointing backwards. This is how I did it.
See pics...this is of my Hangar 9 Corsair

[helifann]

I have a flex pipe with my saito 100 on my Bh P-40 and the same on my H9 P-40 no problems loosening on either.

[kahloq]

Flex pipes are good. I use them regulary.

[crumbta]

Hey All,

Well i have some of this build completed already. I have not taken any pictures yet, it has been a busy week with work and trying to get everything ready for vacation that starts on Tuesday.

I have the wing together, the ailerons installed. Also the elevator and rudder are installed, as well as the servos for the retracts, rudder and elevator.

My one question is, on the retract servo, it goes into the "down" position, and the port side wheel (pilot's view) seems to have about a 1/4" of play. Forward and reverse. It doesn't seem to collapse but i think this should be more forward, towards the leading edge of the wing.

Can this be adjusted?

Thanks Guys,

Ty

[patrick181]

I was talking about this http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAI8075A

With the stock muffler. Never had a problem.

[smithth]

I wish you more luck than I had with my Corsair. I crashed two and kinda decided it was not the plane for me. If you crash yours and need parts, email me @ smithth@hotmail.com. I have a completed wing along with alot of other parts. No fuselage though but almost everything else. Ill sell them cheap. Good luck

[kahloq]

I was talking about this http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAI8075A

With the stock muffler. Never had a problem.

That is NOT a right angle 90 degree adapter. Thats a standard muffler pipe that comes with most saito's. Ppl use the 90 degree right angle adapters to keep the muffler pipe mostly within a cowl. That thing you linked to will not do that.